Stubby

Using some scraps to practice tree nailing....

One thing I didn't like about the older model kit was that there is no planking; the deck is a block, and the directions call for "scoring" to mimic the deck plates. So for that reason I decided to build the platform (at least) from scratch. So instead of a solid base, I went and bought some wood for beams and planks. The kit included 1/4" x 1/4" pieces for the timber heads, so I made the beams match. The directions called for "scoring" to be every 1/4", so I got 1/4" planks. I cut the beams and timber heads yesterday and fussed with them for a while. The pivot block in the kit is cast metal, but in the modern kit it is wood. I liked the wood version better - and think it's more accurate - so I reproduced it from some scrap wood. The pivot block is 5/8" x 1 1/4", the latter being the spacing between the timber heads (and consequently the beams). I also constructed a waterway, which isn't mentioned in the kit. Based on the scale, the deck planking would be 6" wide on the deck, so I looked up the proper pattern for dowling/tree nailing the deck. Here is where I could use some advice: I've not seen the pattern shown in my book before. I think it might look good, but certainly a departure. Also, looking at the pattern in the modern kit, the planks don't seem to line up with the beam. I hadn't planned on being too detailed with the cross-deck beams, as the model will be resting on them and they won't be terribly visible. Do the cross-deck beams account for the fact that the planking doesn't seem to line up with the deck beams? I'm trying to decide whether to ignore the pattern in the new kit and go with the one in the book lined up with the deck planks, or if I should do some kind of hybrid between the two..... or maybe I'm overthinking it and should just keep it simple.... - Stubby

So my dad found this cool model at a garage sale. The model kit was sold by a company called Marine Model Company Inc. - which is a precursor to Model Shipways. In fact, Model Shipways still makes this kit, but it is a little different than the older form. It is pretty interesting to see the differences between the model and the older kit. Obviously, Model Shipways is pretty well known for its laser engraved pieces, but this isn't the case with the older kit. Also, the older kit has more metal pieces than the new kit, and they are wrapped in tissue paper to keep them safe. I do have a couple of other projects going at the moment, but this looked like a fun diversion that I could finish relatively quickly, and the large scale would allow me to try some cool techniques I've learned on this site. So... here goes.... - Stubby

So I have finished planking the lower deck. I built the frame separate from the hull so that I could remove it for planking, and even now have not glued it in place. The inner hull planking too is not all glued in place; above the lower deck only the top inner hull plank is glued in place - the others are wedged in between the deck and that plank. I did this so I could remove the deck to drill the mast hole later - and perhaps other holes if I decide to extend the pumps to the bilge. I also used pencil to mark up the sides of the deck planking to simulate calking. I like the effect, but have some clean up. There are some stray pencil marks, but I think they will come off with a light sanding. I will take care of that after I drill the holes, so that i only need to sand once. I am thinking I would like to pain the bottom of the deck white (as the ceiling of the hold), and do the same for the bulkhead and endorsed of the deck above. There are so many great ideas from others who have built this model that I'm not sure what I'd like to do. - Stubby

Okay, so I figured out (remembered) how to post pictures. I think I need to relearn this lesson every time I post! So I continued on by planking the interior of the orlop deck and framing out the deck above. I didn’t stagger the planking on the interior, but I will stagger the planking on the birth, gun, and spar decks. The picture shows the beams of the birthing deck in place and framed out. They are held in place with planks so as to square it with the hull, but not fixed in place so the frame can be removed for planking. I’m actually pretty happy with how it is turning out. The directions call for placing the runners (upon which the deck beams rest) before planking. I found however, that planking to the point of the runner and then installing the runner makes it much easier to level the deck. I will continue this process from the bottom up. Looking at some of the great ideas incorporated by others who have built this model, I am greatly inspired by ways to improve upon it. I’m trying to restrain myself a bit so that I don’t distract myself from completion – but I will certainly have to try some of those great ideas! Stubby

Mark, Thanks for the reply. You give some good advice - as do many in this forum! I do have an update - and pictures... but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to upload the picture. I don't know what's so hard - I've done it before... but this is clearly NOT an intuitive process. Stubby

I have determined that one can never have too many projects going at once, so while I am contemplating how to proceed with the 18th Century Longboat, I will work on my Constitution Cross Section. I am finding that this hobby is a continual learning experience.... and I take full advantage of that by doing most things twice. I put together the framing for the cross section, but I find that the directions are a bit difficult to follow. After I finished the first step, I was not satisfied with the appearance - so I took it apart and did it again. As many others noted in their logs, the kit doesn't have the correct number of spacers. I made some extras out of scrap planking from other projects; they don't match exactly, but they will be planked up and won't show when complete, so it's okay. The lower gun ports were a nightmare - many others noted this in their build logs too. I saw that Tuffarts had created a spacer for the ports to ensure correct and uniform sizing. I thought that was a great idea and did the same (the second time). They look much better, but I still think they are a little off. I may be taking them off and putting them back on with the planking as an additional way to line them up. I also made a form for the deck beams, and it seems to be working well. I'm not very good at forming with pins, and the result is often jagged. Now to install the deck beams and start planking.

Danny, I looked at the pics of your longboat in a bottle. Awesome! I look forward to reading through that log too, although I think it will be a while before I attempt anything like that! Stubby

Just coming back to the forum after some busy time away. Thanks for the recommendations! I did dabble with the spacers as Max suggested, but the spacing is carried, so I will have to make individually customized spacers for pretty much each frame, and I haven't committed the time for that yet. I will certainly look at the practicum suggested by Danny. I'm always happy to learn from smart and experienced people.

All right.... So in the words of every novice ever.... "this is tougher than it looks." I've read through some of the others that have worked on or completed this model - some truly extraordinary work! In so doing I've learned some things that will help me out immensely. There are a couple of things that I was thinking as I look at my work thus far; I did have to enlarge the laser cut slots in the false keel and the bulkheads in order to achieve a fit. I tried to keep everything centered, but that is a difficult proposition even on a large model; on this small and fragile model even more so. I think if I were to start again I would only file one side of the slot, and use the other untouched side to align the bulkheads. That would preserve the spacing and keep it square. I used the fair-a-frame to keep alignment, but was less successful than I would like - maybe I didn't give enough time for the glue to dry before moving to the next frame, but the bulkheads are not terribly square. Because it is a small and delicate model, the bulkheads do move even when glued to the false fame - which is why many are using a false deck to provide stability before fairing the hull. I will certainly do this, but I am contemplating how to ensure the bulkheads are square before securing a false deck. I'm thinking of taking a break and working on a different model while I contemplate....

So okay.... day two. My only real goal today was to glue the bulkheads to the false keel. I started by dry fitting the bulkheads to check for fit.... and promptly broke the first one. Seriously, I'm not usually Magilla Gorilla, but I've been a wrecking ball so far to this model. Luckily it was just a small corner at the false keel; it will glue back no problem and won't even be noticeable. I did have to file almost every bulkhead and every notch in the false keel in order to get it all to fit. That's not a problem, but something to be aware of. To make sure the bulkheads were square to the false keel, I used Model Expo's "Fair-a-frame". The little longboat looks ridiculous in the huge contraption, but it works as advertised! So the other mistake that I made today was that I glued bulkhead "H" to the bow post - forgetting that the middle of the bulkhead will be removed later. I'm not too worried about that either; it wasn't a lot of glue I can sand out any residual, and it will barely be visible (if at all) under the cap rail. Okay, enough damage for one day!

So I've taken advantage of the Model Expo sale to purchase a model of the U.S. Brig Syren, and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. While I wait I thought I would pull this little longboat out of the closet and work up to the far more intricate model. So, I don't have the time that I would like, but kicked off this build by glueing the keel into a single piece, shaping the bearding line and glueing it to the false keel. The directions stated that the pieces were "delicate" and to handle with care - they weren't kidding! I broke the false keel three times working on the bearding line (I broke the same place twice). Luckily it glued back together nicely, and now glued to the keel it is a bit stronger. So that's it. A small beginning, but a beginning nonetheless.