Essayons

On 11/2/2021 at 3:41 PM, mtaylor said:

Tim,

I have the Hahn Licorne in my signature. Note that it wasn't finished but will give you an idea on how it's done.   Also, you can search using the site search with the key work "Hahn" and choose options to limit it to the title of build logs.

 

And has been said before, one does not have to use his method of making the frames.  There are other ways, such as laying out the timbers needed to make the frames, cutting them out, and assembling. 

 

Hahn's book, "Ships of the American Revolution" details his methods and also why he made the choices of the models in the book.  Last I checked it's still reasonably priced and a good investment as he details in the last chapter doing not only the method but also the complete build of Alfred.

Yes Mark! That was my initial question on Hahn's framing method, the upside down method, but mixed with conventional frame method of cutting out each futtock and assembling them.. I think it will take some study to build the jig pattern. If it were a RN subject where the upper futtocks varied in thickness(sided) and relative position to each other frame(use the HMS Euryalus 1803) for example. On the other hand, I have the Ancre book/plans for the Hermoine. Their drawings show a constant room and space of ~24"/12" all the way up to the upper futtocks, so making a Hahn-syle jig could be very feasible. 

Randy

On 10/27/2021 at 6:12 PM, mtaylor said:

It might be the big hurdle.   What Hahn did was extend the frame tops in the straight line such that the keep and jig base were equally spaced at both ends.   Use the keel bottom as your reference and go from there.  His jig was pencil and paper.... once he had that, he just did all his framing drawings.   From there, the he could drawing the jig itself with the notches for the frame tops.   

 

Like many other things, this is probably easier said than done as I've not seen anything on how he did his drawings, only on using his jig.

Yeah Mark that's what I was contemplating; extending the frame tops but still building the frames in the conventional manner to reduce wood waste..Also looking at the way DVM 27 describes some French builders..  The main reason as I already mentioned is that the Hahn frame can be put down in the box to protect it if work gets interrupted and that it stays relatively stable... just pondering my options!

29 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

 

I really don't see a problem doing one using the scantlings and the Hahn method.    His method was introduced to help make things "easier" for model builders, not to dictate style.

mtaylor, I fully agree. The style keeps the model very sturdy, much more than the traditional "shipyard" configuration. It seems to me that making a framing jig would be the largest hurdle. 

If you are able, cast your parts in Type R pewter (no lead). It flows well but it melts at 575 degrees F which will shorten your mold life. I believe  archivists classify as some pewters as archive grade.

Okay I pose the question to the forum: Has anyone built a plank on frame model with as designed scantlings but in the Harold Hahn method? The downside is the extra wood required. The upside is that the hull while under construction, remains stable and protected. This alone is a big plus since I might get to work on it constantly. If there is a build log that to which one could direct me that would be great.

Thanks all for the repllies. Mtaylor, yes I think I will look into maple and pear depending on the application, saving boxwood for carving. 

Curious of the pro's and cons through your own experience of using Alaskan Cedar for framing, planking, etc,  vs. Boxwood, and Beech..

Randy

Here's a picture of the famous HMS Black Joke which was in the West Africa Squadron..white ensign. Curious what fleet they were under.

It sounds like she was in the West Africa Squadron (Preventative Squadron). They caught a lot of slavers between Africa and Brazil.

4 hours ago, paulsutcliffe said:

The red ensign as on all royal navy ships, with artistic license you could use the White ensign if you wished but usually it would be the red, flown at the rear of the ship

Regards

Paul

Either a red, white, or blue depending on what squadron she was assigned. Each fleet had these squadrons. Exact areas and how they changed and were adjusted over time is my question as I have a query on this topic. This until 1864 when the white ensign became the royal navy ensign, blue for reserve and red for merchants/civilian. Not sure if your ship was in the West Africa Squadron.

Curious if anyone has a map of the RN squadrons(red, white, blue) area of responsibility from about 1750 to 1865 which were assigned to their respective fleets, or they might be stand alone squadrons? I would like a more detailed depiction (and any changes)..R.C.

Hello everyone! I've been a member of this site before and modeling most of my life. I'm trying to compile a group list of modelers in Texas. This would be could be shared with each other(or not), but would serve as a tool to get everyone together to exchange ideas, etc. almost like an unofficial "club". Please PM me and we'll go from there.
Randy

https://www.woodenmodelshipkit.com/product/4930-open-panama-fairlead-10x8mm-2/?v=7516fd43adaa

Not sure of the size you need, but it shouldn't be hard to solder from brass...

Some use polyurethane as well.

Giorgio, what do you use for a finish on the wood? Linseed oil/tung oil??