Julie Mo
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Spray painting
Julie Mo replied to Jaydee37's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I found the same thing as Kurt. It lays down the product the same as a spray can. -
How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Julie Mo replied to Julie Mo's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I joined the Dummies website. I'm probably at the bottom of the class. As I try to piece the ideas together, it seems this may be a lot of work. Not that I have a problem with that. I just wonder how long it will last. And then there's dust. If the model is not sealed from dust, once you clean the dust off the sails, it looks like those sails will have to be trimmed again. I really don't know where this will lead. Right now I envision the J-Class model I am about to tackle to take the place of the model that the seller of the property has already sold. She had a schooner, that was close to the same size as the 1:35 J-Class Endeavour, sitting in her dining room. Replacing it with Endeavour just seemed like the right thing to do. -
I've seen a lot of models in museums that are just amazing. But almost have sails that can't compete with the realism like the rest of the model. They look dead. When I'm sailing, I'm all about sail shape. I have to have those sails trimmed just right and you will find me tweaking them constantly. It's one of the things I love about sailing. There's a pureness and beauty in seeing a properly trimmed sail. My first build will be a J-Class model and I would either want the sails to look like when the boat is sailing (I would also mount it heeling) or flake the sails on the deck and make a dock to mount it to if I can't achieve the look of a properly trimmed sail. Can a model sail ever look like the real thing? If so, what methods do you use? Thanks, Julie
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I worked in electrical construction for 34 years. Contractors used to buy their tools from the supply houses. With the advent of home centers, they started going there to save money. On the first job I worked and for years after, Milwaukee was the go to electrical hand tool for electricians. There were no battery tools back then that could handle the demands of construction. For threading pipe, it was Rigid that was the Cadillac. Electricians and plumbers both used Rigid almost exclusively for heavy pipe work. Once the battery tools were entering into the "construction ready" phase, I started to see DeWalt tools on the job. Milwaukee drills and sawzalls started to vanish. One carpenter foreman told me not that long ago that his company buys their installers a DeWalt drill and gives it to them to keep, figuring they will take better care of it. But he added that those drills don't last much more than a year anyway. So, they really are disposables. I think a lot of contractors began to see tools that way. Back in the 120v tool day, those tools would last for years, even decades. I remember working with a Milwaukee right-angle drill that looked like it was the first one ever made. But when purchased new, few homeowners or weekend warriors could have justified paying what those tools cost at the time. The quality of the tools made today isn't what it used to be but neither is the price.
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Thank you for sharing your build, Keith. The details and photos provided have given me a great foundation upon which to base my first build. And thank you for your synopsis, too. That puts a nice finish on the project. I have studied your thread in depth and I now have a different and, I believe, a much better concept of what awaits me. Your comments about beefing up the framing members have left me thinking about what I will do. With so many of my woodworking tools locked away in storage, the challenges of my first build are greater. I've been waffling between adding more framing members to filling it in like you did. I have no stock and will have to find a source for wood in the area. Thank you again, Keith. I'm sure I will return to your thread many times in the months to come. I'm happy I have found this forum and very happy I found your thread. I won't be going into this blind now.
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Hank, I hope you're still following this thread... I have AutoCAD MEP 2008 that I used for work. It's designed for building construction, specifically for mechanical, electrical and plumbing design. My job was in electrical construction. I have used it for designing woodworking projects and taken them into 3D. But I don't see it as a very good program for model making, it would be too time consuming. Am I missing something? I'm asking because I only have a fraction of the CAD experience you have. I know Autodesk makes better programs for model making but all their products are too expensive for the average hobbyist.
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Can anyone recommend a miniature hand plane?
Julie Mo replied to Bettina's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I know I'm coming late to the party but I too can vouch for the quality of Lie-Nielsen tools. I have a number of hand planes and chisels and they have taken me from relying heavily on power tools to loving working with hand tools. You can use them right out of the box but I find it best to hone them first and then add a secondary bevel on them. That takes the planes and chisels to another level. For sharpening and honing plane irons and chisels, Deneb Puchalski has done some great videos for L-N. -
Steam tool for bending wood model ship planks?
Julie Mo replied to mobile1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is what I have: I have used it for woodworking and guitar building and it steams the wood well. The kit includes instructions on making the wood box but would have to be modified for model making. I also have one of these: When bending guitar sides, you need to back up the wood with a bending strap to keep the fibers from breaking. This may not be an issue with model making though. -
Anyone Use A Pin Nailer?
Julie Mo replied to Julie Mo's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As I've been going through pictures in the build threads here (thank you to all who contribute!), I've seen pins used to hold planks in place. Those pins aren't much smaller than the pins I use in my pin nailers. Of course, the pins I've seen used are only temporary but some were pierced through a finished plank to keep it in place while the glue dries. And I'd imagine those pins are only used on uncooperative planks... thus the curiosity. No doubt, it's not the perfect tool for model building. I know from using mine, getting the pin to shoot exactly where you want it is a bit tricky. So hitting thin structural members could be difficult. -
Anyone Use A Pin Nailer?
Julie Mo replied to Julie Mo's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is what you'd see nailing 23 gauge pins into matchsticks: -
If this is a dumb question, please forgive me. I'm a newbie. I was thinking about the first build I'm about to embark upon and I began wondering about using a pin nailer in model ship building. The pins are headless and the holes it makes are practically invisible. Pins can be as small as 3/8", at least for the pin nailers I own. When I think about planking, something like this seems like it would make the job much easier. Does anyone use pin nailers in model building?
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Skipper, request permission to ease the windward sheets on the fore and stay sails! We don't want them hurting our speed! Sorry. I thought I was actually on deck. This is just amazing, Keith! Your attention to detail is impeccable.
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Thank you, Keith. I too am hoping this will be a pleasurable and satisfying experience. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I was going through some pictures of Endeavour over the years. Most of the pictures are after the refit. I saw some deck pictures with stanchions and lifelines, as opposed to the solid toe rail that comes with the kit. The recent refit of Endeavour took advantage of modern technology and safety features. Even the winch grinding pedestals were eliminated in favour of electric drum winches. When I saw this picture my mind began to wander and I found myself curious about how difficult it would be to duplicate the above in 1:35 scale, particularly the curved piece of teak decking on the edge of the seating? Most teak deck planking is broken up by hatches and such and I feel that really adds to the beauty. I'm not saying I would attempt that on my first build, but I can see wanting to give it a try on some future build. Is this reasonable or unrealistic?
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Wow! Just amazing! I'm new here and to the hobby and I saw this thread. I just ordered the Endeavour 1:35 kit today. So this naturally caught my eye. At first I'm thinking I'll be able to tap into what you have generously shared. I was doing okay, visualizing myself following in your footsteps, but when I realized you were building the new Endeavour, I decided I needed to keep my first build less custom. I'm an avid sailor and have been a big fan of the J-boats for decades. You have done a beautiful job, Keith!
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