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Julie Mo

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Everything posted by Julie Mo

  1. Just finished ripping the padauk I had previously sanded to 1mm thickness. This should be enough to get the deck done. As the width of the pieces I was ripping narrowed, things got a little dicey. Thus the wider strips in the photo below. Rating it, I'd say it does a decent enough job, especially considering the cost. The blade doesn't cut perfectly clean edges like I'm used to on my full-size table saw. But it only takes a few strokes with a sanding block to clean them up. Guiding the stock in requires close attention, but I suppose that's true of all wood this thin. The fence is rock solid and the blade doesn't show any signs of vibrating, other than what's inherent in the tool. I think the bracing held the tool pretty snug. If I find I am using this with any frequency, I'm sure there will be some modifications in the future. As for the sander, some modification is definitely necessary so as to keep the stock firm against the fence.
  2. The router table modification was pretty straightforward. Find where you want it to go, drill a hole, mount an adjustable base and let 'er rip! When switching over to a routing bit, I don't think the larger hole will present any problems but I'm sure I'll find out when I try it. The base is by StewMac. Depth is adjustable enough to expose the full width of the Dremel sanding attachment. I rarely use this base so it can stay with the DIY table. A little clearer view of the base. The only negative is the sanding attachment is slightly larger than the V in the base, so it rubs against it when lowered. My immediate need is to rip 1x3mm planks. Tests show it can do that better than anything else I've tried. Later, I'll need the router table for an idea I have. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the likes! Julie
  3. I shaped the top of the brace and used 1/4-20 inserts in the bottom half. Since the Dremel lays at an angle, I took a rasp to soften the inside of the brace. I ran dados along the bottom for 1/2" plywood supports. None of these will be glued in for now. It will make it easier to store. The Dremel is pretty easy to remove when done. Table saw half finished. I used a universal T track for the fence rail. The Fence is made of quartersawn maple jointed straight. First test on some 1mm stock ripped to 3mm wide ran pretty well. So far, everything was made with materials I had on hand. Later, I will make the other half a router table. I think I have everything I need to finish that up, too.
  4. "The most expensive tools are the ones you buy cheaply and often." While I usually heed the wisdom of that warning there are times when you can't afford the best tools or can't justify the expense. I have finally realized, though I enjoy model making, I have too many irons in the fire to justify buying a Byrnes, or anything else, for that matter. But I do want to finish this model. Thus this DIY effort. What prompted this was everything else I tried failed to produce usable planks for the ship's decks. So I did a web search and found these plans. Anyone who has followed my build thread knows I quickly stray from the plans. And I held true to my tendencies. After looking around the shop I realized I may be able to make this mini table saw with what I already have. Below is a Dremel 4000, their circular saw attachment and a foot activated switch. I took a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut out the area for the Dremel according to the above plans. The Dremel saw attachment has a spring loaded guard that has a lot of resistance to it so it can't be used as a table saw guard. Even if it could be used, it's too wide if you are looking for a zero clearance slot. This is close to the max depth you can get with the attachment. So I had to keep the finished top as thin as possible while still allowing for sufficient strength to hold back the spring guard. I took a 1/8" piece of masonite and adhered it to the 1/2" plywood with contact cement. Next was making something that would hold the attachment in place. Before I glued the masonite to the plywood, I hammered in some T-nuts to secure the brace. Now I've got to work on the back brace.
  5. I was just looking at this, as a means to rip wood I milled for deck planking. When I saw it was an upside down jig saw, I abandoned the idea. The Byrnes is simply too expensive for what will most likely be a one-time build. Thus the search for something that will rip wood to acceptably consistent widths. My Porta Band setup couldn't do that because the blade moves side-to-side just enough to create inconsistencies. I found plans on the Indestructibles website for a table saw for a Dremel. I already own the Dremel and the circular saw attachment. The plans are free and I've already downloaded them so this should be a fairly inexpensive venture. I'll let you know how it goes.
  6. Nice work, Richard! I had no idea how small the model was until I saw your hand. Then I was really impressed!
  7. More playing around with the deck patterns. With this plan I'd be using the padauk to surround the hatches, to break up the monotony a bit. I like the cleaner look of this layout but am still not committed. Isn't it a woman's prerogative to change her mind?
  8. Thank you for the thumbs up! It's much appreciated. I was playing with different deck plank designs when, just before I dozed off last night, I came up with something I wanted to try today. But first I had to find some darker woods, which I didn't have already milled. I settled on padauk, not the best grain-wise but the color was just want I wanted. The stock I have has a lot of red in it. All my milling tools are for full-sized lumber but I was able to resaw, joint, resaw, etc until I had three strips close to the thickness of the deck planks I purchased. I was then able to use the drum sander to get it to the same thickness as the other planks. But how to cut them into the same width? A full-sized table saw isn't the answer. Then the light bulb clicked on. Years ago I made a table for a Milwaukee Porta Band I have. I've used it for cutting conduit and Unistrut but I needed a table to cut up some metal wall tiles. It worked pretty well. So I took it out to see how it would work cutting the padauk strips to width. Not bad! Next was to test my idea. I ran two padauk planks down the center. On the port side I taper cut the birch planks to butt up to the padauk center planks. On the starboard side I would add a padauk insert so the birch plank would butt at 90 degrees. Sort of creating a saw-tooth design with the padauk. (imagine the padauk plank to the left of the tape is birch) I'm leaning toward the saw-tooth design.
  9. While rereading the articles on decking, I saw the suggestion of taking a pencil and using it to darken the edges of the planks, to mimic the black caulking. An idea popped into my head, "Why not glue black card stock to the edges of the planking before laying them down?" I laid PVA glue on the paper then set a group of planks on their side over it. Then I laid a board over that and applied pressure. An edge shot before gluing After the glue had dried, I used a razor knife (not the Exacto in the pic) to separate the planks from each other. The paper split where I didn't slice it clean through. Next round I'll try the Exacto. But when I pushed the planks together, it closed the tear in the paper. These planks are not glued, they are just resting on the plywood board. When squeezed together, they create a fairly clean joint. So far, it is looking promising. Sure would be nice not to have to try to set the plank and paper at the same time.
  10. I just finished catching up on your build, Keith and your work is, as always, absolutely superb! Thought I can't absorb it all, I always walk away having learned a thing or two about model building. Thank you for sharing your builds and for helping me so much through my build.
  11. Now that the laundry room and one bathroom are done, and the boat is in pretty good shape, I can get back to the model. I've been playing with how I'm going to move forward on the planking and finding hot hide glue not quite as easy to work with when I can't pin the planks down to the deck. The plywood top is far more resistant to pinning than balsa. But I did manage to lay two planks along each rail to get things started. Next was to see how I might go about gluing and securing the planking throughout the deck work. I'm using black cardstock for the joints. It's twisted from cutting it into strips and a bit uncooperative. I'm wondering if CA glue would be an option. Any suggestions?
  12. I'm taking a break from running the belt sander, with 60 grit paper, across a tigerwood counter top. That stuff is hard and wearing me out! I still have to finish with the 60 on the right front quadrant. Followed by 100 and 180 with the belt sander. From there it's on to the RO sander. I've got to cool down first!
  13. While I was going through Keith's Germania build, the light bulb went on that I need to mark lines on the deck for reference. I began by using a center finder ruler and making marks at 1/4" apart. But it was difficult to precisely make those marks using these old eyes. Then another light bulb went on when I realized I have an Incra center finding ruler that has holes in it every 1/32" that fit 5mm lead. No need to rely on the eyes as much. After laying down those marks I finished up the reference lines. What I want to do next is decide where I want hatches that will be flush with the deck. I want it to look something like this: This is the deck of a 53' Spirit. The modifications I began earlier were based on a Spirit 130.
  14. Hi, Keith. I'm studying your decking. How did you determine "good quality" for the black card? (I learn so much from you!)
  15. Keith, for some reason I am remembering seeing your card method bleeding a bit. That's why I experimented with the guitar binding. But your pics show a very clean edge. Is this Altair? Guitar binding is a bis "snaky" in that it wants to squirm out of anything trying to contain it.
  16. Thanks for sharing your build, Gary. You've made remarkably quick work on a not-so-easy model. Mine is taking a bit longer than yours, by about 4 years. Nice work! Hope you don't mind me using your build to help me move along with mine.
  17. Forging ahead with this idea, I took the floor from the helm station and proceeded to lay down the "teak" decking. It was pretty time consuming. I started at the center by placing 2 planks with a strip of binding between them and applied acetone. It held pretty well. This was followed by binding, plank, acetone, hold in place for about 10 seconds and repeat. While I know many here are amazing working with tiny parts but that is not my skill. After several planks had been laid, I realized I needed a better tool to hold the pieces in place for both the application of acetone and keeping pressure until it set. The first attempt was taking a piece of wood and cutting a dado slightly narrower than the plank width and slightly shallower than the plank thickness. It worked well enough for this job but something better needs to be designed for the main part of the deck. Other things that would help is the binding being closer to the thickness of the plank.
  18. I just ran the test with the acetone. I used 5 plank pieces and 4 binding strips (all 3" long) and put them on a cedar shim. Then I pinned them in place and dropped acetone on the joints. I waited until the acetone evaporated on top and took a violin plane to the binding. Bad idea. Then I used a card scraper. Not good either. Finally I just sanded the binding level with the planking. The planks and binding are glued pretty well to the cedar shim. But I should have waited longer for the acetone to do it's job. I had pretty well soaked the test piece because I wanted to make sure it got through to the base. Some of the uneven appearance is due to the binding still being soft when I was knocking it down. The plane would probably work fine as long as the binding has hardened. Same with the card scraper. I think this could be what I was looking for.
  19. Next thing was what to do with the caulking? While I was trying to see how to make the deck plank work with the above idea, I opened the drawer under the workbench top looking for some tape, I saw guitar binding. I bought some for an acoustic but never used it. The thinnest is 0.0115" but sold as 0.01". The deck planks and binding aren't as tight as they would be finished but it seems to work and the plastic won't bleed. When using plastic binding on guitars, acetone is used to glue it to the wood parts on the guitar. Not sure how this would work for the decking but I'll experiment.
  20. Now that I'm close to finishing the minor interruption in this build, remodeling the house , I've been trying to motivate myself to get back to the model. I sort of painted myself into a corner when I modified the planking, but yesterday I decided to roll the dice and see what would happen. The hull planking protruded from the stern making the kit piece for the stern deck useless. I took a sanding block to it and started trimming away. It's now even with the plywood top but there is a gap that needs to be filled between the deck and hull planking. I'm looking at something to wrap the entire hull and come up flush with the finished deck.
  21. Keith, I was looking at your build to get some motivation to get back to mine. My next step is the deck. I was thinking about creating a caulk effect, too. The table my model sits on is also used for guitar work. It has two drawers under the top, one with mostly guitar materials. I was looking for some tape and saw plastic guitar binding and wondered if this would work. So I put a piece of black binding in between two planks and it seemed to work. The "caulk" line was very clear and clean. The binding I was using is 0.01" thick but it's available in 0.02", 0.04", 0.06", and 0.09" . For gluing it to a guitar, acetone is used. That makes me wonder if this method could be useful for this application, too. If I've got the numbers right, the 0.0115" (actual thickness of what I have) binding would translate to 0.4" for a 1:35 scale. I think caulking should be 1/4" to 1/2" so it should work.
  22. I think we watched Bullit. I do remember while watching Gone In 60 Seconds me telling my son about the Bullit chase scene. Still one of the best. He kept that car for about 10 years, then finally sold it for a song.
  23. For whatever reason, I have always loved the earlier Mustangs. My dad bought a '64-1/2 convertible with a stick. My mom told him to take it back. He returned with an automatic, convertible, of course. My son and I watched Gone In 60 Seconds when it made it to cable (I think it was in 2002) and he was in love. We looked everywhere for a '67 that was driveable. He ended up "settling" for a '72 Mach 1 with a four-bolt main 351 Cleveland. He waxed it up in the garage and was pretty proud of it. Nice ride for a 17 year old!

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