Jump to content

Julie Mo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Julie Mo

  • Birthday 04/26/1951

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Charlotte County Florida
  • Interests
    Woodworking, guitar building, sailing, golf

Recent Profile Visitors

2,142 profile views
  1. I'm taking a break from running the belt sander, with 60 grit paper, across a tigerwood counter top. That stuff is hard and wearing me out! I still have to finish with the 60 on the right front quadrant. Followed by 100 and 180 with the belt sander. From there it's on to the RO sander. I've got to cool down first!
  2. While I was going through Keith's Germania build, the light bulb went on that I need to mark lines on the deck for reference. I began by using a center finder ruler and making marks at 1/4" apart. But it was difficult to precisely make those marks using these old eyes. Then another light bulb went on when I realized I have an Incra center finding ruler that has holes in it every 1/32" that fit 5mm lead. No need to rely on the eyes as much. After laying down those marks I finished up the reference lines. What I want to do next is decide where I want hatches that will be flush with the deck. I want it to look something like this: This is the deck of a 53' Spirit. The modifications I began earlier were based on a Spirit 130.
  3. Hi, Keith. I'm studying your decking. How did you determine "good quality" for the black card? (I learn so much from you!)
  4. Keith, for some reason I am remembering seeing your card method bleeding a bit. That's why I experimented with the guitar binding. But your pics show a very clean edge. Is this Altair? Guitar binding is a bis "snaky" in that it wants to squirm out of anything trying to contain it.
  5. Thanks for sharing your build, Gary. You've made remarkably quick work on a not-so-easy model. Mine is taking a bit longer than yours, by about 4 years. Nice work! Hope you don't mind me using your build to help me move along with mine.
  6. Forging ahead with this idea, I took the floor from the helm station and proceeded to lay down the "teak" decking. It was pretty time consuming. I started at the center by placing 2 planks with a strip of binding between them and applied acetone. It held pretty well. This was followed by binding, plank, acetone, hold in place for about 10 seconds and repeat. While I know many here are amazing working with tiny parts but that is not my skill. After several planks had been laid, I realized I needed a better tool to hold the pieces in place for both the application of acetone and keeping pressure until it set. The first attempt was taking a piece of wood and cutting a dado slightly narrower than the plank width and slightly shallower than the plank thickness. It worked well enough for this job but something better needs to be designed for the main part of the deck. Other things that would help is the binding being closer to the thickness of the plank.
  7. I just ran the test with the acetone. I used 5 plank pieces and 4 binding strips (all 3" long) and put them on a cedar shim. Then I pinned them in place and dropped acetone on the joints. I waited until the acetone evaporated on top and took a violin plane to the binding. Bad idea. Then I used a card scraper. Not good either. Finally I just sanded the binding level with the planking. The planks and binding are glued pretty well to the cedar shim. But I should have waited longer for the acetone to do it's job. I had pretty well soaked the test piece because I wanted to make sure it got through to the base. Some of the uneven appearance is due to the binding still being soft when I was knocking it down. The plane would probably work fine as long as the binding has hardened. Same with the card scraper. I think this could be what I was looking for.
  8. Next thing was what to do with the caulking? While I was trying to see how to make the deck plank work with the above idea, I opened the drawer under the workbench top looking for some tape, I saw guitar binding. I bought some for an acoustic but never used it. The thinnest is 0.0115" but sold as 0.01". The deck planks and binding aren't as tight as they would be finished but it seems to work and the plastic won't bleed. When using plastic binding on guitars, acetone is used to glue it to the wood parts on the guitar. Not sure how this would work for the decking but I'll experiment.
  9. Now that I'm close to finishing the minor interruption in this build, remodeling the house , I've been trying to motivate myself to get back to the model. I sort of painted myself into a corner when I modified the planking, but yesterday I decided to roll the dice and see what would happen. The hull planking protruded from the stern making the kit piece for the stern deck useless. I took a sanding block to it and started trimming away. It's now even with the plywood top but there is a gap that needs to be filled between the deck and hull planking. I'm looking at something to wrap the entire hull and come up flush with the finished deck.
  10. Keith, I was looking at your build to get some motivation to get back to mine. My next step is the deck. I was thinking about creating a caulk effect, too. The table my model sits on is also used for guitar work. It has two drawers under the top, one with mostly guitar materials. I was looking for some tape and saw plastic guitar binding and wondered if this would work. So I put a piece of black binding in between two planks and it seemed to work. The "caulk" line was very clear and clean. The binding I was using is 0.01" thick but it's available in 0.02", 0.04", 0.06", and 0.09" . For gluing it to a guitar, acetone is used. That makes me wonder if this method could be useful for this application, too. If I've got the numbers right, the 0.0115" (actual thickness of what I have) binding would translate to 0.4" for a 1:35 scale. I think caulking should be 1/4" to 1/2" so it should work.
  11. I think we watched Bullit. I do remember while watching Gone In 60 Seconds me telling my son about the Bullit chase scene. Still one of the best. He kept that car for about 10 years, then finally sold it for a song.
  12. For whatever reason, I have always loved the earlier Mustangs. My dad bought a '64-1/2 convertible with a stick. My mom told him to take it back. He returned with an automatic, convertible, of course. My son and I watched Gone In 60 Seconds when it made it to cable (I think it was in 2002) and he was in love. We looked everywhere for a '67 that was driveable. He ended up "settling" for a '72 Mach 1 with a four-bolt main 351 Cleveland. He waxed it up in the garage and was pretty proud of it. Nice ride for a 17 year old!
  13. The hair was standing on my head reading your story, John. That's just downright scary! The more I learned about electricity, the more I respected it. But lightning? It's so unpredictable. Now that I'm living in the lightning capital (or at least state), I won't even go outside if there's lightning near.
  14. They are made by Edson. I bought some cheaper ones to start but they needed additional support to stay flat with the center section of the table.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...