Dubz

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 101 – Planking and Wales
 
To conveniently work on the planking below the channels, the hull was inverted as shown in the first picture
 

 
The toptimbers are no longer as vulnerable with the planking installed up to the top so there is minimal risk of damage.  I still use carpet padding as a precaution and have tied the hull down to keep from pushing it off the bench.
 
The next picture shows some of the planking installed at the bow.
 

 
The hull is marked with pencil lines to show the extent of the wale and the load waterline.  I have highlighted the lower edge of the wale in red and the lwl in blue.
 
The wale is 6” thick and there are roughly 20 strakes of 6” wide planks from top to bottom.  The top strake transitions from the 4” common  to the 6” wale planking two strakes below the lower channels.  That break in thickness can be seen in these pictures.  The next picture is a close-up of the “hooding ends.”
 

 
The wale planks are pared down to match the depth of the rabbet.  The treenails are hard bamboo (old garden stakes) – very hard and very dark.  The grain flecks and the color variation in the maple planks is a bit distracting, but all of this planking will be painted.
 
The planking around the stern was done concurrently with that shown above. In the next picture the second strake below the planksheer rail has been curved and is clamped to dry.
 

 
Each of these is boiled for over an hour, clamped as shown below and left overnight to dry.  It can then be glued with a similar clamping arrangement.  This is really a one-step-per-day process.
 
The last picture shows the three strakes below the rail – levelled off but not yet finish sanded.
 

 
 
The next strake will be the transition strake to the wale thickness.  There may be one more circumferential strake  - at the "knuckle" - but the planks below will butt into the last of these.  The ends of the the planks below will bolt into the supporting chocks between the stern timbers.  The chock around the helm port has not yet been fitted.
 
Space is left for the main rail.   The area between this and the lower rail will be decorated with a bas-relief eagle and some s-curved vines.  The words “Young America” then “New York” will be lettered below the lower rail on these lower three planks..
 
  
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 100 – Rails and bulwark continued
 
Work continued this week on the topside rails, planking and channels.  The first picture shows the forward starboard upper channel being installed.
 

 
These are 6” thick.  Note that the main rail sections are missing in this photo – being only temporarily fitted at this stage.
 
In the next picture the mizzen and main lower channels have been installed.
 

 
Note that – unlike the uppers - these are “streamlined” at the ends.  I believe these lower channels spent a good deal of time in the water.  The main rail sections are positioned only in this picture.  The stack of planks on the deck are destined for the starboard side down to the wale. 
 
In the next picture the entranceway has been cut into the upper strakes.
 

 
The last section of topside planking is being glued in the next picture – held by pins and a couple of screw clamps.
 

 
The next picture shows the topside planking completed – except for treenails.
 

 
The toptimbers have been cut off flush.  The next picture shows the run of planking from almost directly forward.
 

 
Planking of the starboard side down to below the waterline is next on the agenda.  This will take some time with the narrow planks used on these ships.  The model will be inverted to make this work possible around the stern.  Planking on the port side will go just a few strakes below the lower channels – leaving the framing on that side open below that height.
 
Ed
 
 
  

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 99 – Rails and bulwark continued
 
Most of the work since the Thanksgiving holiday has consisted of fitting the rails and planking around the upper stern.  This has been challenging and there has been some rework along the way.  I will forgo a full tutorial and summarize.
 
The planksheer rail was fitting around the stern in an earlier post.  To fit the members above this and to refine its exact curve better, I decided to start at the top where the heights are easiest to measure as shown in the first picture - and to adjust if necessary.
 

 
The top of the planking around the poop corresponds with the top of the poop decking at the side.  This is also the top of the frames and the underside of the fancy rail that caps the bulwarks around the hull.  These heights are critical.
 
In the next picture the first strake of planking below the main rail has been boiled and clamped to dry.
 

 
The main rail was shaped to fit and is only pinned in place.  It will be painted white and the surrounding hull - and the lower rail -black, so it will not be permanently installed until much later.  The dark, saturated plank being fit is held tightly against it.  These planks not only curve around the stern but twist to fit the slant of the underlying timbers.  Lots of new clamps here made for this awkward work.
 
The next picture shows the third and lowest planking strake being fit.
 

 
The height gauge is being used here to check heights at points around the stern.  The lower rail has been removed for this.  The next picture showing the finished work is the acid test.  I’m not sure which was a bigger problem in judging this, my glasses or the camera lens, but this is the final version.
 

 
Both rails have now been replaced with newly formed, clean versions.  The originals suffered from all the fitting, clamping and refitting.  The next picture shows a different angle.  All this work was done in hard maple because it will be painted and it was easier to bend.
 

 
The main rail is still only fitted temporarily.  The planking is now ready for Treenailing.  There will be a carved, gilded America eagle placed between the rails.  I can’t wait to plank below the lower rail around the stern – more twisted planks and more clamping issues.  A job for the new year.
 
With the stern work completed the top members around the rest of the hull will be easy to fit.  In the next picture the mizzen channels are being installed.
 

 
The top channels are set at the height of the main rail and the lower channels just below the planksheer.  Notches for the chains will be cut later in situ.  The channels will be capped with moldings much later.  In the next picture the starboard main channel is being installed.
 

 
There is still much work to be done on the port side.  In the next picture a section of main rail is pinned in place and one of the topside planks held against it.
 

 
There are two of these 6” x 3” planking strakes above the rail.  They must fit tightly down on the rail and the channels.  The channels were most likely bolted to the outside of the planking to keep them outside the main watertight skin, but I am installed them against the frames to improve their strength on the model.  The appearance will be the same.  In the last picture the uppermost planking strake is being held in place to check its height against the tops of the frames.
 

 
A white capping rail – the fancy rail – will fit over this, but much later.  There is no inside planking above the main rail, so the fit on the frames will be visible.
  
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 98 – Planksheer / Main Rail continued
 
The planksheer rail around the stern was made from hard maple.  Although the remainder of the rail is Castelo, my stock was too old and dry to bend around to the required curve.  No problem with the maple.  All the maple will be painted.  In the first picture the section around the stern has been formed and is being beveled to fit against the slanting frame timbers.
 

 
In the next picture the rail is being positioned and pinned at the proper heights using the height gauge.
 

 
This fitting took some time.  The bevel of the rail is most pronounced at the very stern and is vertical at the forward ends of the piece.  With the pins setting the heights, the rail was glued into place as shown below.
 

 
Lots of clamps required for this.
 
There was a lot of waiting during the forming and gluing of the stern rail, so work continued concurrently at the bow.  In the next picture, planking above the main rail is proceeding.
 

 
Space has been left for the main rail itself.  This will be installed after it and the surrounding planking are painted – as described earlier.  In the next picture all of this planking has been treenailed.
 

 
Once the planksheer rail around the stern was installed, the rail was continued forward on the port side.  In the next picture it is held in position with pins and is being glued.
 

 
Planking of the upper sides will now continue up to the top rail – the fancy rail.
  
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 97 – Planksheer / Main Rail
 
In the first picture the a portion of the port outer planksheer rail is being fitted.
 

  The height gauge is being used here to check the height along the rail before inserting pins to hold the correct line.  This part of the rail needs to be beveled to fit against the flare of the bow.  In the next picture the rail is being glued with the pins holding the line.
 

 
I spent a lot of time checking heights this week.  In the next picture the height of the lower edge of the main rail is being marked out to set the top of the band of planking between the rails.
 

 
The distance between the height of the planksheer and the main rail varies over the length of the hull.  This became apparent when setting these points.  It seemed wrong, but the drawings verified this.  This made me suspect my drawings but the original table of offsets confirmed the variation.  The planking of this band between the two rails is further complicated by the flare out at the bow.   This makes the true projection of the band wider than shown on the vertical section.  These differences are small, but critical if the planking is going to converge at the top of the frames.  I was doing a lot of height checking this week.
 
A part of the inside of the main rail and fillers between frames have been installed in the next picture.
 

 
The “look” of the inside of the bulwarks is starting to emerge.  An outside view of this work at the bow is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The bottom of the inside of the main rail must match the height of the top of the outer band of planking.  The next picture shows why.
 

 
In this picture the outer main rail is being fitted. Its top is flush with the tops of the filling pieces between frames.  All these rails are horizontal.  The last picture shows the inside of the bow at this stage before fitting the main rail in this area.  I say "fitting" because the outer main rail will not be installed until later - for painting reasons.
 

 
The next step is to install the thin planking above the main rail up to the tops of the frames leaving a tight space for the outer main rail.  This will be installed after the surrounding planking and the rail itself are painted - black and white respectively.  It is also time to fit the rails and planking around the elliptical stern.  Can’t wait.
 
Time for a holiday break.  Happy Thanksgiving everyone – well at least everyone in America.  My British friends used to tell me they celebrated thanksgiving on July 4th.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 96 – Planksheer continued
 
In the first picture the starboard planksheer rail is being fitted at the bow.
 

 
Pins were needed here to hold the position when clamping due to the outward flare of the sides.  This part of the rail also had to be beveled on the back side to keep the top face level.
 
In the next picture the inside rail on the port side is being glued.
 

 
While the glue on that rail was drying the starboard outer rail was glued. 
 

 
As you can see it was all hands on deck for the clamps.  Anything that resembled a clamp was drafted into service to keep every part of the rail tight to the side.  The next picture is a close-up of the forward rail on the starboard side.
 

 
In the next picture a dummy bowsprit has been fitted and planking has begun above the rail on this side.
 

 
I am using hard maple for the external planking.  It will be painted.  The last picture shows the port side ready for the outer rail.  The inner rails and spacers between top-timbers are now completely installed on both sides.
 

 
Getting these rails finished – including around the elliptical stern – and planking up to the main rail is the next order of business.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 95 – Main Deck Ledges, Planksheer
 
The first picture shows the last of the work on the main deck ledges.
 

 
The seats for the last row of ledges have been cut into the carlings and outside lodging knees.  The next picture shows the completed main deck framing.
 
 

 
The planksheer was the next order of business.  This rail caps and seals off the tops of the frames at the weather deck - the main deck.  On the outside it defines the sheer line of the ship.  Internally it rests on the 11” deep main deck waterway.  It would seem to make sense to install the waterways first, but to facilitate painting I decided to install the planksheer then slip the waterway underneath it later.  In the next picture a strip of pine representing the waterway is being used to check the height of the upper futtocks prior to setting the planksheer.
 

 
The cutoff heights of the upper futtocks were checked earlier and trimmed to match the lower edge of the planksheer rail.  However, since the heights of the deck beams at the side evolved somewhat independently when the deck clamps were set, there was certainly room for discrepancies.  After a fair amount of measuring, remeasuring and some adjustments, the first section of rail was ready to be installed.  This is shown below.
 

 
The 6" rail is a molded section with three beads.  The lower two are half the diameter of the upper.  The rail was formed with a simple scraper.  The real planksheer was installed in one of two ways.  It could be mortised to fit over the toptimbers or it could be made in two halves each notched to fit around the toptimbers from either side.  To avoid all of this precision notching or mortising, I install the rail on one side, then fit blocks between the timbers, and then fit the opposite side – trying to make the joints relatively invisible.  This will all be painted so there is no issue in this case.  The next picture shows some blocks installed between frames.
 

 
These also strengthen the joint between the frames and the inner rail.  After the glue had dried these were sanded flush to the side.  The tops were filed off horizontal and flush with the top of the inside rail. 
The next picture shows part of the starboard planksheer at this stage.
 

 
The last step is to install and finish off the exterior rail as shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is a similar rail a few feet up – the main rail – and then another capping rail – the fancy rail – fitted to the tops of the toptimbers.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 94 – Main Deck Framing 5
 
Because the main deck framing supports the mast partners, knees are installed as reinforcements at the partners.  I also installed them at the hatchway openings.  I made these as overlapping knees.  I did not go to this trouble for the lodging knees at the side because their fore and aft arms are not visible on the model.  I do not yet know if these central knees will be covered with decking or not.  The first picture shows some of these knees before installing.
 

 
The next picture shows a few installed at the main mast partners and at the hatch just aft of this.
 

 
I installed these central knees first before going on to the major task of setting all of the ten dozen or so lodging knees at the sides.   The next picture shows this lodging knee installation proceeding aft from the bow.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of this work. 
 
 

 
This is one type of lodging knee combination used on these ships and is the one I used on all of the decks.  It is the simplest – with the fore and aft arms simply butting.  They will be covered by the waterways in any case.  In the picture a knee is being marked so it can be cut to fit neatly between its partner and the beam.  Bolts are then installed, the knee is polished up and then glued in.
 
The next picture shows all of the main deck lodging knees installed.
 

 
And, finally, a picture of the full hull at this stage.
 

 
The next step will be to install the ledges between each of the beams to complete the framing of this deck.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 93 – Main Deck Framing 4
 
The two large fresh water tanks needed to be permanently installed before the main deck framing could be completed.  The first photo shows these two tanks in place.
 

 
The tanks were iron and rest on heavy wood bases in the hold over the keelson.  These bases were shown in earlier posts.  The tanks were made from cardstock glued on to wood blocks.   The picture also shows  tops of the lower sections of the bilge pump suction piping just forward of the tanks.   The next picture shows the run of these pipes down to the limber channel.
 

 
The pipes are copper tube.  The upper sections between these pipes and the pumps on the main deck will be installed later.  The 4”x4” dunnage timbers on the base for the forward tank can be seen in this picture – taken before setting the tanks - just aft of the pipes.  The main mast step can be seen just forward of the pipes.  (This was shot at an aperture of F32 and very slow shutter – much better field depth vs. the pictures in last post.)
 
In the next picture the framing in the midship area is approaching completion.
 

 
All of the full beams have been installed in this picture including their hanging knees and pillars.  In the picture the headers for the main hatch - with scores cut for the half beams - have been fit as well as the main mast partner carlings.  In the next picture the framing over the tanks has been completed and the last pillar under one of the half-beams is being test fit. 
 

 
All of the pillars are pinned with copper wire bolts top and bottom.  The fitting of this last pillar finishes the deck beam setting.  The next picture shows the hull with the main deck framing at this stage.
 

 
Next will come the lodging knees for all these beams and the ledges – but first a few housekeeping items needed to be taken care of.  One of these was literally a housecleaning of the workshop that might be partially noticeable in the above picture.  This tidying up also included installing 10 dozen or so functional copper wire bolts with epoxy to further secure the main deck beams and knees.  One of these is being installed in the next picture.
 

 
There are two at the end of each beam – one through the beam into the clamp and one through the beam into the hanging knee.  The other task was to apply wax finish to all of the structure from the middle deck up to just below the main deck beams.  This cannot be done easily after the ledges are installed. 
 
The deck framing has not been sanded at this stage as might be noticed.  This will be done once after all of the ledges are installed.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 92 – Main Deck Framing 3
 
Framing of the main deck continues from forward and aft.  Additional operational features are also being installed.  In the first picture the topsail sheet bits  and two round openings for the anchor chain chutes  are installed.  The samson post is being glued in place toward the bow.
 

 
This very large timber extends up above the forecastle deck.  It will support the lever arms for the anchor chain winch located on the main deck just below the forecastle break.  The levers were operated from the forecastle.
 
Working just one step behind the drafting sometimes causes problems.  The next picture shows the step for the main capstan, which I neglected to install when framing the middle deck.
 

 
The decking between the two hatches and the middle bay of framing had to be removed and reworked to include support carlings and the square step itself.
 
The next picture shows the extent of the main deck framing at that time – a few days ago.
 

 
The next picture is a different view.  The three rows of carling under the deck cabin can be clearly seen in this picture.  The cabin will extend some distance further aft than the beams installed here.
 
 

 
The next picture shows some additional progress on the aft part of the main deck.
 

 
The members that will support the capstan on the main deck have been installed including two large support carlings.  The design of these supports and the step is speculative.  It will soon be time to make the smaller forward water tank and install both iron tanks while there is still access.  The bilge suction pipes will also need to be installed soon.
 
The next picture was taken while I could still place a smaller camera on the middle deck.  The view is forward along the middle deck
 

 
In the foreground is the main hatch and the bilge pipe openings.  The dark areas along the waterways are shadows of the deck beams. 
 
The last picture is one of those scary close-ups taken through one of the view ports.
 

 
This was taken at F8 – the smallest aperture on the smaller camera - so the foreground is out of focus, but the detail of the knees on the middle deck framing can be clearly seen – also a scarph jint in the deck clamp.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 91 – Main Deck Framing 2
 
The first picture shows the most time consuming step in framing the deck – fitting the hanging knees under the beams.  I have been doing a lot of this lately.
 

 
After fitting the knee its bolts are installed at the workbench, it is sanded smooth and then glued in place.  Later it will be further secured with two functional copper wire bolts – one down through the beam and another through the frames.
 
The next picture shows a few more beams installed with their carlings.
 

 
The next picture shows the aftermost beam on the main deck – at frame 36. 
 

 
There will be a few steps down to the cabin deck and a few steps up to the poop at this location.  A transverse bulkhead will be installed from the main deck to the poop deck.  The cabin deck will also be closed off from the hold with internal partitions.
 
The next picture shows some other work being done as the beams are installed.  Chocks with circular holes have been installed just aft of the fore hatch.  The anchor chain tubes will fit into these holes and extend from the main deck into the chain storage area in the hold.
 

 
The next picture shows more main deck beams fitted and some additional details installed.
 

 
The two bored chocks at the main deck have now been installed – also the topsail sheet bits.
 
Finally in the next picture - aft of the main hatch - framed, bored openings for the two bilge pump suction pipes have been made and installed.  These pipes will extend down to the outer planking in the limber channel just aft of the main mast step.
 

 
The plank strakes outside of these openings are for the pillars under the main deck.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 90 – Main Deck Framing 1
 
Again, many thanks for all the nice comments and "likes."
 
In the first picture, the breast hook between the middle and main decks has been installed and the main deck hook is being fitted.  The main deck is the weather deck aft to the break at the beginning of the poop.  The forward section is covered by the forecastle.
 

 
I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle.  The side planking treenails in the picture have not been sanded off yet.
 
The first major task on the main deck framing was to make the beams.  The full set is shown in the next picture.
 

 
I have described the method for cutting out these rounded up beams in previous posts.  It is very fast and very accurate.  The set shown were made in less than two hours starting with a 2” thick block of Castelo.  The process, including tools and fixtures, was fully described in Naiad, Vol II.
 
In the next picture the beams have been cut to size, fitted and pinned in place.
 

 
Most of these beams are 15” wide except for those at the mast partners (17”) and those nears the ends (12”).  All are 12” deep.  On the original ship they were hard pine – as were all the beams and much else.  Frames were white oak and most of the knees and hooks white or live oak.
 
The next step was to mark the centerline on each beam.  The next picture shows the last and easiest step in the process that begins with a string line between pins on the stem and sternpost.
 

 
Although this process was done for every deck so far, I was a bit tense about the string line falling equidistant between the outside of the frames at each point.  It is getting a bit late in the day to fix any problems with this.  Misalignments would be very visible on this deck and could create a nightmare when the masts are installed.  The mast partners on the main deck must be plumb with the mast steps on the keel and also come through the center of the deck.  Fortunately, the centerline was well centered with only very minor remediation, so I am now in a more relaxed state.  After a substantial amount of checking, the pencil line drawn above was converted into a permanent scribed line on each beam. 
 
In the next picture the locations of all the carling and header scores are being marked out while the beams are still pinned in place. 
 

 
The distances were marked out from the centerline with dividers.  In the picture a piece of carling stock is being used to mark both sides of the scores.
 
In the next picture the setting of beams has begun at the bow.
 

 
The first very short beam will be secured only with lodging knees.  The hanging knees with their simulated bolts have been installed on the second beam.  The third beam has been glued and pinned to the clamps.
 
In the last picture the third beam - with its hanging knees and pillar - has been installed. 
 

 
The next beam has been glued to the clamps and frames.  All of the scores in the beams are cut at the bench by hand before the beams are set – from the marks made previously.  Carlings are installed progressively after the knees and pillar on each beam.
 
A period of repetitive work will follow.  Most of the time doing this is spent making the hanging knees and fitting them under the beams.  Fortunately, some preparation work in this framing for main deck facilities will break some of the routine.  So, three down, thirty-one to go.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 89 – Middle Deck Hatches/Cabin Deck
 
The first picture shows some of the treenailing on the cabin deck.
 

 
These planks are 7” wide.  At this width the standard fastening spec was one per beam / ledge.  The treenails are about 1 ½” in diameter and are Castelo as mentioned in the last post.
 
The next picture shows a typical hatch being framed. 
 

 
At this scale and on this deck, simple lap joints are used.  The head ledges are on top to secure the coamings.  These will be bolted at the pin locations, in each corner and in the center of the beam.
 
The next picture shows a coaming completed and being glued down and one still being fabricated.
 

 
In the next picture the central planks are being installed between the openings for the hatches, masts and water tanks.
 

 
These planks are needed to support the pillars under the main deck.  As with the deck below, no further planking will be done on this deck.
 
The next picture shows some additional planks being installed on the cabin deck.
 

 
After having completed the drawing for arrangement of cabins, etc. on this deck the final amount of necessary planking can be set so those details can be constructed.  I don’t mind covering some of the structural detail in this area because some of it is based on assumptions and its authenticity cannot be verified.  The members – clamps, transoms - along the line of the main deck in this area will also be hidden by the cabins and related details as will the ends of the planking that are simply butted against the margin planks.  Cabin detail will be discussed later.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 88 – Cabin Deck Framing/Planking
 
The cabin deck provided accommodation for senior officers and passengers.  In elevation, it was midway between the middle and poop decks – to provide increased headroom.  The deck occupies the area aft of frame 36.  It is just under 45’ in length on the centerline.  The first picture shows beams being fitted.
 

 
No details are known about the structure of the deck.  I have assumed scantlings equal to the main deck – beams 12” x 12”.  Also, since the structure is lighter and close to the deck below, I have omitted hanging knees.  The next picture shows all six beams installed and awaiting the lodging knees.
 

 
In the next picture, lodging knees, plain square pillars, carlings and ledges have been installed.
 

 
In the next picture 12” wide by 6” thick margin planks are being installed around the sides – again no details known, but a reasonable guess.
 

 
Because the main deck beam at frame 36 will be directly aligned with the beam for the cabin deck and because it is only a few feet above, the deck planking was installed next, while there was still access for drilling.  This work has begun in the next picture.
 

 
I use .021” diameter pins forced into tight holes to secure the planking for gluing.  The holes are then enlarged slightly for treenails.
 
I have yet to decide on the full extent of planking on this deck beyond the area of the cabins along the sides.  I expect to construct the partitions and built-in furniture for these.  More on this later.  The aft end of the main cabin between these rows of sleeping quarters will also likely be decked.  The next picture shows the completed planking in the cabin areas.
 

 
The planks are 3½” thick and 7” wide.  I did not take the trouble to cut these into the margin plank because bedsteads will cover the margin plank and the first few strakes of decking.  In the next picture, treenailing of decking on the port side has begun.
 
 
 
The first two rows have been nailed.  The third row has been drilled.  The treenails are 1½” (.021”) diameter Castello.  This has become the de facto standard size on the model.
 
Treenailing of the inboard side planking continues.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 87 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking continued
 
In the first picture the last strake of inboard planking on the port side is being installed – leaving the air strake above it.
 

 
Treenailing has begun on both sides.  The next picture shows some nails installed and holes drilled for the next group.
 

 
The treenails measure 1½” (.021”) in diameter and are drawn from long strips of Castelo.  The next picture shows the completed forward area above the middle deck.
 

 
The next picture shows a treenail strip being inserted into one of the aft deck beams – about to be clipped off.
 

 
The aft part of the middle deck is the first to be finished off so the beams of the cabin deck can be installed next.  The cabin deck is just a few feet above the middle deck.
 
 In the next picture the middle deck work in this area below the cabin deck is being given a coat of wax – below the clamps.
 

 
In the next picture the wax has sunk in and dried.
 

 
The aftermost cabin deck beam has been glued in.  The next picture shows another view of this.
 

 
The next step will be to fit the deck beams and their knees for the cabin deck framing.  Treenailing along the rest of the deck continues.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 86 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking
 
Heavy members – standing strakes – 10” thick by 12” deep are fitted over the waterways and bolted through every frame timber to further reinforce the connection of the deck structure to the frames.  These members are joined along their length by hook scarphs as shown in the first photo.
 

 
These members were also bolted down into the waterways but I omitted these bolts because they will be covered by the next higher planks. 
 
In the next picture some of those planks are being installed and holes are being drilled for the standing strake bolts.
 

 
Note that the top strake being installed is notched for a drop plank to account for the widening planking band where the hull flares out at the bow.  The next picture shows a higher strake being glued in – wedged down to close the joint.
 

 
Standing strake bolts have been installed in this picture.  In the next picture, the next section of that plank is being glued – wedged and clamped in this case.
 

 
I did not bother to jog the planking joints in this work, because hanging knees will hide this detail.  Long planking strips were used and their joints placed under a knee location.
 
The next picture shows the completed planking – except for treenails – at the starboard bow.
 

 
The gap above the top plank is an “air strake” – left open to ventilate the space between frames above the keel.
 
The next picture shows the larger of the two fresh water tanks ready to be rigged into the opening in the decks.
 

 
In the next picture the tank is placed temporarily in position.  The top of this tank will be just below the main deck planking.  A smaller tank located just forward of this one has yet to be fabricated.
 

 
I did not go overboard in making these tanks.  They will be difficult to see at best.  I used the wood blocks shown earlier, some file folder and a ponce wheel for the rivets.  After assembly the paper was impregnated with dilute shellac and finished with flat black enamel.
 
The detail of the actual tanks, like many other things, is a bit of a mystery.  Webb’s Challenge had rectangular iron tanks so I followed that design.  I based the design for these on pictures from the JL Mott catalog from 1886.  Mott was the foremost New York ironmonger from 1828, making a large range of iron goods well into the 20th Century – a likely source for these tanks.  The catalog featured cast and wrought iron sectional tanks.  It is likely that these large tanks would have been of the wrought iron type – probably lead lined.  They were built up to the required size in formed modules.  The top and bottom manways are speculative.  No nozzles yet.
 
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 85 – Middle Deck Binding Strakes
 
The binding strakes provided an additional reinforcement to the connection of the deck beams to the hull frames.  These 8” thick members, placed against the inboard face of the waterways, were bolted vertically into each beam and horizontally – edge bolted – through the waterway and each frame.  On the model I represented this bolting with monofilament – one down through each beam and one edge bolt above each ledge between beams.  There were probably twice this many bolts used on the real ship. 
 
The first picture shows the forward section of binding strake on the starboard side being glued in place.
 

 
The binding strakes were joined with hook scarphs as shown in the photo.  They were also rounded over or beveled down to the deck planking on the inboard side.
 
 In the next picture the joint measurements are being transferred to the end of the next section.
 

 
The length of the hook is being marked here,  The piece was cut back to the angle first.  The next picture shows the last section on the port side at the stern being fitted.
 

 
The next picture shows the binding strakes installed at the bow – ready for bolts.
 

 
The holes for the horizontal bolts were drilled before installation – those for the vertical beam bolts after.   In the next picture a length of monofilament is being glued in to represent one of the beam bolts.
 

 
After installation of the binding strakes the deck was given a final leveling with 220-grit paper as shown below.
 

 
This was followed by final sanding using 220 then 320-grit paper – by hand and using the detail sander shown in the last photo.
 

 
Next will be installation of the side inboard planking, starting with the heavy 10” x 12” standing strakes over the waterways.  Hatch coamings and some decking can also be started.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 84 – Middle Deck Waterways
 
The first picture shows the hull with the temporary ribbands removed and the toptimbers and upper futtocks cut down to final height.
 

 
The outsides of the upper hull have been given a light sanding.  The hull will be planked on this side down to slightly below the load water line.
 
With the middle deck framing complete, the next step was to install the waterways.  In the next picture the curved sections at the stern have been boiled and are clamped in place to dry overnight.  The same was done at the bow.
 
 

 
These are rough-cut waterways, unbeveled at this stage.  After drying they were cleaned up with sandpaper and beveled to lie flat against the angled aft frames.  Most of this was done on the disk sander as shown below, then trimmed by hand.
 

 
In the next picture the aft starboard section is being fit.
 

 
The unfinished port member is still in the clamps.  In the next picture the forward starboard section of waterway is being glued in.
 

 
The waterways are pretty massive – 15” x 15”.  They are bolted into each beam and through each frame with iron bolts.  On the model these are 22-gauge copper wire glued in with epoxy as discussed earlier.  The sections are joined by hook scarphs as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This area has not yet been bolted.  The next picture shows the last section of waterway being glued in.
 

 
This picture also shows wood blocks cut to the size of the two fresh water tanks and set on their bases in the hold.  The next picture is a closer view of these.
 

 
These blocks will probably be the fabrication bases for modeling these two iron tanks.  The larger of the two comes up to just under the main deck.
 
Next, the binding strakes inside of the waterways.
 
 
Ed

Thank you so much one and all for the very kind comments and all the "likes".  The next job is construction of the Mortar Bed.
 
The Mortar Bed
 
The Mortar Bed is an interesting model in itself, although it is quite straightforward thanks to Jeff’s excellent drawings.  All of the components are made from Swiss Pear of varying thicknesses.
 
The side pieces are each comprised of three ‘strakes’ and after cutting stock to the appropriate sizes, these were made as a pair by spot-gluing the over-length stock together and completing all drilling and milling operations together to ensure symmetry. The groove for the trunnion was cut on the mill, and holes of various diameters for bolts and eyebolts were completed on the mini drill press.
 
Three pieces in the base have a 1/8” hole to take a brass spigot which goes through into the deck below to allow the turntable to turn.  Centring these holes was probably the trickiest part of the operation.
 
Here are all the components overlaid on the drawings (a few of these ended up with a re-do):
 

 
The rear of the mortar bed is rounded and a bevel is added to the top edge just to add a slight degree of difficulty.  The rounding was done on each component piece individually using the Byrnes disc sander, and then the whole piece was touched up once assembled.  The bevel was achieved by first marking the inner edge of the bevel by tracing around the edge of both top and side with a compass point set to the appropriate distance and then carefully filing to shape before finishing with a sanding stick.
 
Eyebolts and Ringbolts were then added according to the drawings.  I will leave the cap squares until the mortar and its trunnions have been fashioned.
 

 
Finally, here’s a few shots of the mortar bed in position:
 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello,
this positive feedback is a great pleasure again and again.
Thank you very much.
Today I'll show you a few small steps forward to build the sloop.

Particularly, I would point to the wooden supports for the swivel guns.
For landing missions the sloop could carry 4 swivel guns.

 
...to be continued

Hello Paul,
 
for the KWdG porthole arrangement I have here this pic where she is in the drydock. The portholes are actually flush with the hull, no flange,  the "eyebrows standing out, to lead rain- and splashwater around the porthole.
 
I made a little mock up in order to see how the critical porthole section just beneath the forecastle deck shall work out, leaving a minimal space just above the porthole for the eyebrow placement ( second hole from the right, with brass insert and "glassing")
 
Nils
 
(ups, here are the pics.....)
 

 

Actually the deconstruction part is already done.  It's the reconstruction part I need to do now.  
 
Side note: Anyone planning to go to the San Diego Festival of Sail next weekend?  I'm going to go and waste lots of time sailing multiple times per day as well as in the parade of sail on Friday and would be down for meeting up with anyone else who is going to be around sometime during the weekend if it worked out.

Standing rigging was completed by adding the bowsprit shrouds, and I'm working through the running rigging now.
 
I have already learned an important lesson in rigging.  No matter how good I think my research and sources are on the rigging, walk through the entire process myself, at least a few times, and make my own 'order' and checklist.  I'm running into so many things that really should have been added at a much earlier time because it would have been so much easier, whether it be the blocks that are seized to the stays, to the various blocks on the masts, or the Jeers block.  All of them could have been done easier (and better) at much earlier stages in the rigging.
 
Anyway, I've completed the following (I think):
 
Bowsprit shrouds. Jib Halyard, downhaul, and tackle. Fore Staysail Halyard, downhaul, and tackle. Gaff rigged and mounted. Gaff Peak Halyard and tackle. I've also added a bunch of blocks to the mast and top mast, as well as some ropes that attach to those blocks which can be seen taped up into coils.   Some photo's.   I have also realized that the jib traveler ring is too far back on the jib boom, and because I'm an idiot I already trimmed the in-hauls that hold the traveler ring, so I removed both of those, and tomorrow I'll redo that entire thing so that the dark rope that is the farthest one out on the jib boom will be much closer to the tip of it, giving me more room for some of the other lines and tackle that have to be added. 

I ordered the Micro-Mark Pro-Etching kit and set to work trying to make the gun locks. I will not go into the processes to make them, I will over that in the log. I ended up with a lock that is about 1.5" thick which is about right given the ones I have seen on the web. I used multiple layers of brass to give a more 3d appearance with the thicker plate in the center.
 
I also made a jig to align the trunnion holes moving them below centerline. I also have put together the plans for the carriages so my next step will be to complete a carronade barrel then construct at least one with carriages of each. This will allow me to assess the amount of decking I want to install and confirm whether or not I want to only have guns on one side.
 
Thanks you all for you input into this process. I know I have a better cannon for it.
 
The first shot below shows  a test on the prototype gunlocks. It had the same thickness plates for all the pieces. The remaining shots are of the first real long gun barrel that will be installed on the ship.  It has the gunlock configuration as described above. I left the trunnions long until I finish the carriage and confirm the lengths. Then I will shorten.

Attaching metal parts, rudders and draught marks on the hull.