6ohiocav

Foremast Course Yard Lift Blocks, Main Stay Blocks, and Upper Top Blocks
 
Spent an entire evening just attaching various blocks to my foremast lower and upper tops.  I also attached the Course Yard Lift Swing Blocks.  I should have added all of these before I assembled the bottom and top mast, and especially BEFORE I attached the cap and rigged the upper shrouds. I had to sieze the two block assembly on the mast, instead of on the bench. If I had given this more thought, I could have easily put this together in advance and slipped it over the cap before attaching it to the mast head.
 
Live and learn.

It is laying on the bench. I have a soft clamp on the end holding it down. Tying the ratlines while the mast lays horizontal is about as good as I can get it.
 
I will be attaching the top gallant mast section next and then working on those shrouds. I think I am also going to attach the yards, at least the top gallant and royal, before stepping the mast in the deck hole. I am trying to do as much as I can before I attach the mast. Once I do that, I will then work on the lower shrouds and back stays - at least that is the plan.

Mike,
 
I just wound the rope around a scrap of small dowel and did the lashing. That rope was served, so it was pretty stiff and held its round shape pretty well. I guess you would call that an eyesplice.

Mike,
 
If you are talking about how they are attached to the top of the mast - YES you alternate P to S. I thought you were referring to alternating for when you tie them down.
 
This is how I did mine.  I think this shows the alternating pattern.
 
 

Depending on how tight your mast fits in the hull, I would not worry too much about alternating from starboard to port. I thought about that, but did not have any problems. You should not be pulling the shroud lines to hard to line them up.  Just snug. That should not pull the mast out of whack.  You might want to consider alternating when you tie them down.

Hey Mike,
 
I just posted my method to sieze the deadeyes to the lower shrouds on my log.  I am curios to see how your method works out.
 
A word of caution.  Don't tie these off. I strongly urge you to tie on all of the upper shrouds and standing rigging lines to your masts, attach the fully rigged yards, and tie on harnesses, lifts, (clews and sheets if you plan on using them) BEFORE you step the mast. I did all of that on my bench.  I cannot imagine how hard and time consuming it would have been if I had to do this when the mast was installed on the ship.

Mike,
 
In answer to your question, YES. Once I did the first whipping, and secured the deadeye, I took the assembly out of the steel clamp and turn it around by putting the deadeye in the black clamp - more secure. I then do the next two whippings.
 
I am left handed, so I pull on the rope with my right hand and hold the seizing loop between my right thumb and forefinger. I then wrap the seizing rope with my left hand, passing it to my right ring and pinky to hold tight, as I reach around with my left hand to complete the wrap. After 6 turns, I pull the end through the loop and pull tight. This can be done in a vice, much harder anywhere else.

FORESTAYS AND BOWSPRIT RIGGING
 
With my foremast finally in place, I was in a position to begin belaying all of the standing rigging onto the Bowsprit/jib.
 
I worked on this over the holiday weekend and have knocked out about 90%. I am attaching a couple of photos of the finished product, but will break this work down into segments in order to map out how I tackled all of these individual lines
.
Just some general observations for my future Niagara builders. I gave my order of attack a lot of thought. I tried to figure out what to belay first. I ended up attaching the JIBBOOM GUYS FIRST. There was no method to this madness, other than I had seen that others had done this first. From there, I then attached all of the stays, starting with the FORESTAY and PREVENTER STAYS, and moving up the mast to the TOPMAST STAY, TOPGALLANT STAY, FLYING JIB STAY and ROYAL STAY. I then attached the JIBBOOM MARTINGALE and FLYING JIBBOOM MATINGALE. I then attached the BOBSTAYS.
 
If I were to do this again, I would totally reverse this order of attack. I should have attached the BOBSTAYS FIRST. By the time that I got to them, which run from holes in the keel to the underside of the bowsprit, it was so crowded with stays and guys that it was nearly impossible to tie and manipulate the ropes.  More on that challenge later.
 
I would then attach the stays as I did them, bottom (Forestay) to top (royal).
 
Then the martingales.
 
Then LAST, the Guys. The guy lines were in the way during the entire process.  I am lucky I did not knock one off. I hit them hard with just about every tool I used on this process.
 
In short, think INSIDE OUT on the bowsprit, and BOTTOM TO TOP on the stays.

Mike,
 
If you are talking about how they are attached to the top of the mast - YES you alternate P to S. I thought you were referring to alternating for when you tie them down.
 
This is how I did mine.  I think this shows the alternating pattern.
 
 

Mike,
 
If you are talking about how they are attached to the top of the mast - YES you alternate P to S. I thought you were referring to alternating for when you tie them down.
 
This is how I did mine.  I think this shows the alternating pattern.
 
 

Hey Mike,
 
I just posted my method to sieze the deadeyes to the lower shrouds on my log.  I am curios to see how your method works out.
 
A word of caution.  Don't tie these off. I strongly urge you to tie on all of the upper shrouds and standing rigging lines to your masts, attach the fully rigged yards, and tie on harnesses, lifts, (clews and sheets if you plan on using them) BEFORE you step the mast. I did all of that on my bench.  I cannot imagine how hard and time consuming it would have been if I had to do this when the mast was installed on the ship.

LOWER SHROUDS AND LANYARDS
 
Well, I finally stepped my foremast. I tied as many ropes on as I could figure out (all of the standing rigging and much of the running rigging) and attached all but the course yard.  Once in place, I started by connecting the lower shrouds.
 
I created a jig similar to the one I used on the upper shrouds. I pulled the shroud tight, and clipped the deadeye with a clamp.  I then took the clamp to my vice, placed next to the ship, and seized the deadeye.  I used three whippings on each.  My forward shroud line was served, thus the larger diameter.
 
I used .012” rope for the lanyards. I haven't tied them off just yet.
 
​My jig worked well and the deadeyes lined up nicely.  It was also pretty efficient allowing me to knock this out pretty smartly.

Mike,
 
Great work bench. I agree with Julie.  I want to come and build my ship there. My work area is always a mess, and I only have a small tray to place unused items. It gets so bad sometimes that I cover my mess before I take any pictures.
 
I assume all of the cabinets were purchased at Hobby Zone.

Mike,
 
Great work bench. I agree with Julie.  I want to come and build my ship there. My work area is always a mess, and I only have a small tray to place unused items. It gets so bad sometimes that I cover my mess before I take any pictures.
 
I assume all of the cabinets were purchased at Hobby Zone.

SHIP’S BELL AND FORWARD PINRAIL
 
Before I encase the bow with rigging, I decided I had better finish some of the last tasks on the deck that I have been putting off. I had previously built the ship’s bell framing, but had not lashed the bell and attached it to the Bowsprit. I also had to install the forward pin rail.
 
I built all of this from scratch from my supply of cherry.

LOWER SHROUDS
 
I decided to serve the forward mounted shroud. That would be the line that the course yard would rub against at times, and based on my research, would likely be served for added strength and wear protection. On the Niagara, the forward mounted shroud is a single line with a burton pendant. It took me a couple of days to figure this one out.
 
I decided to use the kit provided .075mm (.035 inch) line and covered it with a basic black sewing thread on the Syren Serve-o-matic. A pretty good machine.
 
I then tied an eye hole and tied the throat collar. I did two of them.

Ken,
 
I assume that if you were not going to add sails, that the rings on the spanker mast simply sit there on the ship as you pictured them. I at the very same point on my build and wondered what to do with the rings, as I am not adding sails.
 
I won't ask you what the first thing that goes, as I think I know.

LOWER SHROUDS
 
I decided to serve the forward mounted shroud. That would be the line that the course yard would rub against at times, and based on my research, would likely be served for added strength and wear protection. On the Niagara, the forward mounted shroud is a single line with a burton pendant. It took me a couple of days to figure this one out.
 
I decided to use the kit provided .075mm (.035 inch) line and covered it with a basic black sewing thread on the Syren Serve-o-matic. A pretty good machine.
 
I then tied an eye hole and tied the throat collar. I did two of them.

Ken,
 
I assume that if you were not going to add sails, that the rings on the spanker mast simply sit there on the ship as you pictured them. I at the very same point on my build and wondered what to do with the rings, as I am not adding sails.
 
I won't ask you what the first thing that goes, as I think I know.

To ALL
 
As my son and daughter work their way home from college for the holiday weekend, my family and I would like extend our wishes to my fellow shipwrights and yours to have a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving Weekend. And since I am on the subject, thank you for your guidance and inspiration on this great forum. Cheers to you all, and I hope you find some time to work on your builds this weekend. 

Mike,
 
I don't have the plans with me, but If I recall, the cross member that the bell is strapped to with the handle to ring the bell is pinned between the bits. I used metal wire. The cap is a separate item that is glued to the top of the bits and the entire assembly straddles the Bowsprit. I think I did this according to the plans, but I would not be surprised if I did not, as I have strayed from them before.

SHIP’S BELL AND FORWARD PINRAIL
 
Before I encase the bow with rigging, I decided I had better finish some of the last tasks on the deck that I have been putting off. I had previously built the ship’s bell framing, but had not lashed the bell and attached it to the Bowsprit. I also had to install the forward pin rail.
 
I built all of this from scratch from my supply of cherry.

To ALL
 
As my son and daughter work their way home from college for the holiday weekend, my family and I would like extend our wishes to my fellow shipwrights and yours to have a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving Weekend. And since I am on the subject, thank you for your guidance and inspiration on this great forum. Cheers to you all, and I hope you find some time to work on your builds this weekend. 

Mike,
 
I don't have the plans with me, but If I recall, the cross member that the bell is strapped to with the handle to ring the bell is pinned between the bits. I used metal wire. The cap is a separate item that is glued to the top of the bits and the entire assembly straddles the Bowsprit. I think I did this according to the plans, but I would not be surprised if I did not, as I have strayed from them before.

SHIP’S BELL AND FORWARD PINRAIL
 
Before I encase the bow with rigging, I decided I had better finish some of the last tasks on the deck that I have been putting off. I had previously built the ship’s bell framing, but had not lashed the bell and attached it to the Bowsprit. I also had to install the forward pin rail.
 
I built all of this from scratch from my supply of cherry.