6ohiocav

​Skylights
 
​​Still working on deck structures.  Months ago, I built the three skylights.  I built them out of bass wood strips per the plans. This was a tedious project that took me days to accomplish. The plans call for the structures to be painted, and all one color, walls, frames and roof.  To be fair, the current ship's skylights are indeed painted a light brown - and all one color.
 
I have viewed posts on this site, and agree with the commenters that these skylights are probably a modern addition, and would not have been present on the 1813 version, at least in this form.  I would imagine however that there would have been some form of structure that would allow light in the hold and protection from rain.
 
Deciding to go with the structures as planned, I decide to forego the all one color.  I elected to line the roofs with cherry strip wood, that I would not paint. I masked off the roofs and sanded and primed the walls, and they sat in my make-shift paint booth waiting for me to find an acceptable beige paint. 
 
I looked at those skylights for weeks, and every time I did, I just did not think I could paint them to look good enough. So, I decided to scrap the existing structures and start over. I have learned that anytime I can avoid painting something, that is a preferable way to go. This time, I would build the walls out of of holly, and would mill some small cherry strip wood for the roofs, window sills and window covers.
 
As I learned the first time around, I cut out balsa blocks to the size of the skylights and used that as a support to build around.  It assured that the structures were square, and made the work with the small strips easier.  I cut 45 degree but joints on my mini miter box.  Getting the right size is a challenge, but once achieved, a block clamped to the fence allowed me to cut multiple even sized strips.
 
I have provided pictures of the process.  The built skylight at the top was the first version out of bass wood with a coat of white primer. The end product of the new design out of holly and cherry was much more acceptable.

​Skylights
 
​​Still working on deck structures.  Months ago, I built the three skylights.  I built them out of bass wood strips per the plans. This was a tedious project that took me days to accomplish. The plans call for the structures to be painted, and all one color, walls, frames and roof.  To be fair, the current ship's skylights are indeed painted a light brown - and all one color.
 
I have viewed posts on this site, and agree with the commenters that these skylights are probably a modern addition, and would not have been present on the 1813 version, at least in this form.  I would imagine however that there would have been some form of structure that would allow light in the hold and protection from rain.
 
Deciding to go with the structures as planned, I decide to forego the all one color.  I elected to line the roofs with cherry strip wood, that I would not paint. I masked off the roofs and sanded and primed the walls, and they sat in my make-shift paint booth waiting for me to find an acceptable beige paint. 
 
I looked at those skylights for weeks, and every time I did, I just did not think I could paint them to look good enough. So, I decided to scrap the existing structures and start over. I have learned that anytime I can avoid painting something, that is a preferable way to go. This time, I would build the walls out of of holly, and would mill some small cherry strip wood for the roofs, window sills and window covers.
 
As I learned the first time around, I cut out balsa blocks to the size of the skylights and used that as a support to build around.  It assured that the structures were square, and made the work with the small strips easier.  I cut 45 degree but joints on my mini miter box.  Getting the right size is a challenge, but once achieved, a block clamped to the fence allowed me to cut multiple even sized strips.
 
I have provided pictures of the process.  The built skylight at the top was the first version out of bass wood with a coat of white primer. The end product of the new design out of holly and cherry was much more acceptable.

​Skylights
 
​​Still working on deck structures.  Months ago, I built the three skylights.  I built them out of bass wood strips per the plans. This was a tedious project that took me days to accomplish. The plans call for the structures to be painted, and all one color, walls, frames and roof.  To be fair, the current ship's skylights are indeed painted a light brown - and all one color.
 
I have viewed posts on this site, and agree with the commenters that these skylights are probably a modern addition, and would not have been present on the 1813 version, at least in this form.  I would imagine however that there would have been some form of structure that would allow light in the hold and protection from rain.
 
Deciding to go with the structures as planned, I decide to forego the all one color.  I elected to line the roofs with cherry strip wood, that I would not paint. I masked off the roofs and sanded and primed the walls, and they sat in my make-shift paint booth waiting for me to find an acceptable beige paint. 
 
I looked at those skylights for weeks, and every time I did, I just did not think I could paint them to look good enough. So, I decided to scrap the existing structures and start over. I have learned that anytime I can avoid painting something, that is a preferable way to go. This time, I would build the walls out of of holly, and would mill some small cherry strip wood for the roofs, window sills and window covers.
 
As I learned the first time around, I cut out balsa blocks to the size of the skylights and used that as a support to build around.  It assured that the structures were square, and made the work with the small strips easier.  I cut 45 degree but joints on my mini miter box.  Getting the right size is a challenge, but once achieved, a block clamped to the fence allowed me to cut multiple even sized strips.
 
I have provided pictures of the process.  The built skylight at the top was the first version out of bass wood with a coat of white primer. The end product of the new design out of holly and cherry was much more acceptable.

Royal and Topgallant Yards,
 
I worked on the final set of yards. These were the toughest, due to their small diameter.  Again, done in cherry, done slowly on the lathe with a sharp mini gouge, files and a lot of sanding.
 
Next up are a series of eye bolts for jackstays on the Course, Topsail, and Topgallant yards.  I have an idea for a jig to use with my plunge bit for the dremel.  I will be working on that tomorrow.
 
After that, off to the paint booth with all of the masts, bowsprit and yards.
 
 

Spanker Gaff
 
I did some further work on the spanker gaff.  As I did with the spanker gaff,  I carefully sanded the ends on the bench sander and glued on the jaws.  I also inserted and glued the eye bolt.

Royal and Topgallant Yards,
 
I worked on the final set of yards. These were the toughest, due to their small diameter.  Again, done in cherry, done slowly on the lathe with a sharp mini gouge, files and a lot of sanding.
 
Next up are a series of eye bolts for jackstays on the Course, Topsail, and Topgallant yards.  I have an idea for a jig to use with my plunge bit for the dremel.  I will be working on that tomorrow.
 
After that, off to the paint booth with all of the masts, bowsprit and yards.
 
 

Spanker Gaff
 
I did some further work on the spanker gaff.  As I did with the spanker gaff,  I carefully sanded the ends on the bench sander and glued on the jaws.  I also inserted and glued the eye bolt.

Royal and Topgallant Yards,
 
I worked on the final set of yards. These were the toughest, due to their small diameter.  Again, done in cherry, done slowly on the lathe with a sharp mini gouge, files and a lot of sanding.
 
Next up are a series of eye bolts for jackstays on the Course, Topsail, and Topgallant yards.  I have an idea for a jig to use with my plunge bit for the dremel.  I will be working on that tomorrow.
 
After that, off to the paint booth with all of the masts, bowsprit and yards.
 
 

Spanker Gaff
 
I did some further work on the spanker gaff.  As I did with the spanker gaff,  I carefully sanded the ends on the bench sander and glued on the jaws.  I also inserted and glued the eye bolt.

Spanker Gaff and Spritsail Yard
 
More turnings.  I wanted to knock out some of the more delicate pieces on the lathe.
 
The spanker gaff was a real challenge.  I broke the first one trying to turn the small shoulder, and then on the second, I discovered a defect in the cherry stock right about the time that I got to the desired radius.  On my third try, I simply turned the stock to the1/8 diameter, and then decided to carve the shoulder by hand.  The plans call for an eye bolt at the end of the spanker, so I drilled the hole BEFORE I tried to carve the end down to 1/16. After some careful work with the x-acto knife and sanding pads, I obtained a desirable result.
 
The spritsail yard was a little more routine.  Careful work with the gouge and some sanding.
 
These two parts took all night.  Tomorrow, I hope to sucessfully attach the bee to the spanker gaff.

Welcome to the forum.
 
I felt compelled to jump in to let you know that we have all felt the anxiety of "the first build."  However, the folks on this forum are true craftsmen and always willing to lend a hand.  It is the only way I could have overcome the many challenges of a POB wooden ship kit.
 
You build board looks great.  I have made mental note, since I used a table vice, and your rig would have been better.
 
Get ready to face snags in the build process.  Model Shipways makes great kits, and their customer service is outstanding. But all kits require the "impromptu" actions. If your Keelson piece does not meet the shape of the plan, consider cutting the shape out of the plan and tracing it on a some scrap sheet material from the kit (if there is enough on the periphery). Just a suggestion that most of us have had to do from time to time.  I have been doing that a lot since I have decided to replace all of my basswood and plywood parts from my Niagara kit with cherry. Having access to a jig saw helps.
 
I am not sure I understand your question regarding the deck "camber," but doing things by eye are pretty routine, so getting good at that will serve you well throughout the process.
 
Good luck and happy building.  Feel free to stop in anytime.

Welcome to the forum.
 
I felt compelled to jump in to let you know that we have all felt the anxiety of "the first build."  However, the folks on this forum are true craftsmen and always willing to lend a hand.  It is the only way I could have overcome the many challenges of a POB wooden ship kit.
 
You build board looks great.  I have made mental note, since I used a table vice, and your rig would have been better.
 
Get ready to face snags in the build process.  Model Shipways makes great kits, and their customer service is outstanding. But all kits require the "impromptu" actions. If your Keelson piece does not meet the shape of the plan, consider cutting the shape out of the plan and tracing it on a some scrap sheet material from the kit (if there is enough on the periphery). Just a suggestion that most of us have had to do from time to time.  I have been doing that a lot since I have decided to replace all of my basswood and plywood parts from my Niagara kit with cherry. Having access to a jig saw helps.
 
I am not sure I understand your question regarding the deck "camber," but doing things by eye are pretty routine, so getting good at that will serve you well throughout the process.
 
Good luck and happy building.  Feel free to stop in anytime.

Welcome to the forum.
 
I felt compelled to jump in to let you know that we have all felt the anxiety of "the first build."  However, the folks on this forum are true craftsmen and always willing to lend a hand.  It is the only way I could have overcome the many challenges of a POB wooden ship kit.
 
You build board looks great.  I have made mental note, since I used a table vice, and your rig would have been better.
 
Get ready to face snags in the build process.  Model Shipways makes great kits, and their customer service is outstanding. But all kits require the "impromptu" actions. If your Keelson piece does not meet the shape of the plan, consider cutting the shape out of the plan and tracing it on a some scrap sheet material from the kit (if there is enough on the periphery). Just a suggestion that most of us have had to do from time to time.  I have been doing that a lot since I have decided to replace all of my basswood and plywood parts from my Niagara kit with cherry. Having access to a jig saw helps.
 
I am not sure I understand your question regarding the deck "camber," but doing things by eye are pretty routine, so getting good at that will serve you well throughout the process.
 
Good luck and happy building.  Feel free to stop in anytime.

Spanker Gaff and Spritsail Yard
 
More turnings.  I wanted to knock out some of the more delicate pieces on the lathe.
 
The spanker gaff was a real challenge.  I broke the first one trying to turn the small shoulder, and then on the second, I discovered a defect in the cherry stock right about the time that I got to the desired radius.  On my third try, I simply turned the stock to the1/8 diameter, and then decided to carve the shoulder by hand.  The plans call for an eye bolt at the end of the spanker, so I drilled the hole BEFORE I tried to carve the end down to 1/16. After some careful work with the x-acto knife and sanding pads, I obtained a desirable result.
 
The spritsail yard was a little more routine.  Careful work with the gouge and some sanding.
 
These two parts took all night.  Tomorrow, I hope to sucessfully attach the bee to the spanker gaff.

Spanker Gaff and Spritsail Yard
 
More turnings.  I wanted to knock out some of the more delicate pieces on the lathe.
 
The spanker gaff was a real challenge.  I broke the first one trying to turn the small shoulder, and then on the second, I discovered a defect in the cherry stock right about the time that I got to the desired radius.  On my third try, I simply turned the stock to the1/8 diameter, and then decided to carve the shoulder by hand.  The plans call for an eye bolt at the end of the spanker, so I drilled the hole BEFORE I tried to carve the end down to 1/16. After some careful work with the x-acto knife and sanding pads, I obtained a desirable result.
 
The spritsail yard was a little more routine.  Careful work with the gouge and some sanding.
 
These two parts took all night.  Tomorrow, I hope to sucessfully attach the bee to the spanker gaff.

Mike,
 
If you were to place an order to Syren for rope and blocks, what would you order. I note that the material you are using is from there, so perhaps you have already placed that order. Would you mind giving me a suggestion on what I should order.  Time to break down and get it done.
 
Thanks.

Mike,
 
Thanks for the insights.  180 of these!!!  I can't wait.

Mike
 
All of the parts and masts are from the same board. Everything is the same color.  I am taking pictures with two different cameras and it is the light.
 
I don't have a steady rest, but sure could use one.  Sounds like a good father's day present to myself.

Spanker Boom Jaws
 
This is a challenge.  Screw this up and you will back at the lathe to turn a new spanker boom.
 
Since this is going to be painted black, I chose to use the laser cut jaws (one less piece to cut from my cherry). I used the piece to trace the taper on the boom. I made a tick mark at the top of the boom to use as a reference point while I sand the sides flat to accept the jaws.  Then I carefully take the end down on my bench sander.  I put a 400 grit pad on the disc so that it doesnt take too much.  But you still have to be careful.  It will remove material pretty quick.  After some hand sanding, I got it to fit and glued it up.
 
 
 
 

Spanker Boom
 
Back to the lathe where I feel comfortable to get a break from the tedious gun mounting project.
 
This is a tough piece to turn.  It is 11 inches long with a 3/16 inch max diameter.  That makes the piece unstable and subject to wobble.  The key, sharp tools and take your time.
 
1. Get the middle down to 3/16.
2. Turn the outside end to 1/8 and cut the taper. It is always better to work on the side on the spindle first, since it will be the most unstable.  Keeping the beef at the chuck end will help keep the stock stable
3 Turn the side on the chuck to 1/8, cut the taper and create the shoulder.
 
Some photos of the process. Again, all made out of cherry
 
 
 
 
 
 

Mike,
 
I am avid military history reader and civil war reenactor. I am currently reading or have read everything I could find on the Age of Sail
 
Just finished.
 
Six Frigates - Ian Toll (his trilogy on the Pacific War is real good too)
​Ships of Oak, Guns of Iron - Ronald Utt
1812: The Navy's War - George Daughan
Broadsides: The Age of Fighting Ships - Nathan Miller
Struggle for Sea Power - Sam Willis
In the Hour of Victory - Sam Willis
A Brief History of fighting Ships - David Davies 
 
Currently Reading
 
Give me a Fast Ship - Tim McGrath
 
I am always looking for suggestions, so fire away. I would recommend all of these books.

Brian,
 
Thanks for stopping in. Paint is such a nemisis. Using the various hardwoods I have available puts me in my comfort zone with stains, dyes and finishes.
 
I am caught between centuries with my Niagara. Both of my parents were born 30 miles from Erie, Pa, where Noah Brown built the original ship in 1813. I am more interested in the historical ship, and realize that the current ship is pretty much a replica, and the kit, which is a real good one, is of the replica.
 
I often think of what Noah Brown would have done- or better yet- could have done.  The ship and her sister ship the Lawrence were built in a true wilderness, and in an incredible short amount of time (much less than what it will take to finish my model). While blessed with a plethera of natural materials, everything else had to be sent from Pittsburgh, 70 miles south over cow paths. Was the orginal ship painted? I am not sure we know.
 
In the end, I will be drifting back and forth between the 1813 version and the 1988 one. If anyone has ANY GUIDANCE ON THE 1813 VERSION, PLEASE SEND IT ALONG.
 
I am totally on board with the use of boxwood. The wonderful ships on this forum, including your fabulous AVS, can't be made out of basswood. It is rather ironic. For years in my amatuer furniture making endeavors, I have searched high and low for wonderfully grained woods. Now I am looking for wood that has no grain.  Go figure.
 
Finally, you have a keen eye. The inside of my carronade barrels are not painted  because I shoved a very small dowel stick in the barrels and speared them into a bar of styrofoam so I could paint them. The dowels fit so good, I actually thought I would make some red tompians, but have since abandoned that idea and will be painting the inside barrels with a brush.

Mike,
 
I was afraid you would ask me that. I don't know the size.  It is from a Dremel carving kit.  It is bit "105". There is no size given but it is perfect for these rings.I used it to drill all of the holes for the rings in the gun carriages.
 
I am adding a picture of the kit.  My kids got me this years ago before I started this ship, and this has come in handy on numerous occasions. I used the larger diamond tipped bit to cut out my gun ports.
 
It is a bit hard to handle without a jig, but with a jig, the tapered collar is perfect for plunge drilling. The thick collar prevents the bit from going too deep and you can zip right along.

Eyebolts
 
.... and more eyebolts.  I twisted up 160. Took most of the evening.  Started with 24 gauge black and used a small drill bit mounted in my bench vice. Not very efficient.  Too many thumbs, and i was handling each one way too much. too many drops and just too slow.
 
So I used my micro plyers with rounded jaws. Wow, what a difference. Much more efficient and they never leave the jaws of the pliers until done.  Not sure  a topic worth photographing,but I add some just the same to show the process.

Mike,
 
The pin vice has its place, but not for the 160 holes I just drilled this morning.
 
No paint or stain for the cherry, just poly. Any part that the plans ask for a natural finish, I will do in cherry stock. Making the parts is good practice, but very time consuming. Some of the items that get paint I will do in the bass wood.