shipcarpenter

Securing Stays in place on Starboard Side of Endeavour.
 

Additions of Stantions, Pillars, Riding Bits and Guard Rails. Fitting of stern Stem and Stem Gallant Rails. Lovely challenge

Update Feb 15:
 
Hola a todos:
 
After finishing the hull planking I began to paint and bend the upper strips of the hull.  For this operation I use my wife’s steam iron.
 
 

 
Then I begin making the galleries and domes.  This was a tricky operation because they need cuts in 3 different angles.   To facilitate the cuts I glue first a square piece of plywood at the base of the cylindrical pieces.
 

 
To make the model more real I decided to include the roof shingles, which cost me much work at first, until I decided to glue one over the other and then cut all together in a triangular way in order to fit over the roof.
 
 
 
Finally I place galleries and domes in their place.
 

Port and Starboard Wales finally on.
Took me while to decide how to make up the width with the timbers from the kit.
The upper hull planking is 1.0mm thick.
The wales: decided on a 1.5mm top plank, then 5 planks 2mm thick. So the wales ended up with 2 x 0.5mm steps over the top edges.
 
I decided to blacken the edges of the top and bottom planks with the aim to give a sharp edge(hopefully not to cut in later on) to the change in colour/clear.
 
Might do some planks across the stern next, before talking the lower hull planking.
 
Slow going 
 
Cheers shipmates
 
Dave

Hello,
 
thanks Geoff for encouraging words. I have now more photos of how she looks currently.
The boats are still not complete - outside must get stain, coat of varnish, wood ageing wash and a final coat of varnish.

I have to say, that I am beginning to think the "industry" is it's own worst enemy when it comes to these kits.  While in theory, an 'average' model maker could buy a kit off the shelf at the local store, and assemble it into some sort of a finished model, it is quite easy to understand why the vast majority of kits are probably never finished, and either get tossed, or placed into the back of a closet or garage, and collect dust.
 
If the manufacturers included decent instructions (and they needn't be extensive, but should have basic things like what knots to use in different places on the rigging), and slightly different parts (correct line sizes for the rigging - not sure how including 3 or 4 sizes of line instead of 2 would change the cost by more than a buck or two), the kits would come together much better, and with much less frustration.
 
If it wasn't for the amazing resources found online at this site, and others that I've found linked from various builds and resource links on this site, my ship would be looking vastly different I'm sure.
 
This morning I'm working on my first shrouds, and after finishing the first assembly, I thought it ended up looking like crap, so started browsing builds again, and ran across a link to Chuck's instructions for the Syren.  In the chapter for the standing rigging, it clearly shows (and explains!) that the lanyards connecting the deadeyes are a much smaller line than the rigging line, but the kit only has the single size of line included, so even though I was using Chuck's line, it was simply too large.  Luckily, I had purchased one package of a smaller line (.012) when I got the line to match the kits, and when I used it, even though it's larger than the lanyard line used in the Syren instructions, it instantly looked 5x better.  Also, his instructions give the correct type of tie-off for the lanyard (Lark's Head) which was also huge.
 
Other small details, like using small pieces of wire to hold the deadeyes in place for spacing and making them consistent.
 
First try - using .025 lanyard (Chuck's line, but same size as provided by kit to use for this).

 
Re-do - using .012 lanyard from Syren, and the first shroud pair complete.

 
If the kits were to include stuff like this, it would probably keep many more people in the hobby, rather than throwing their kits out in frustration.  The goofy thing is, they would only need to 'produce' this sort of instructions once, because they are applicable to every kit that has shrouds and deadeyes, so the cost wouldn't really be an issue at all.
 
 

Hello,
 
thanks Geoff for encouraging words. I have now more photos of how she looks currently.
The boats are still not complete - outside must get stain, coat of varnish, wood ageing wash and a final coat of varnish.

Hello,
 
thanks Pawel, I used actually small bulb lights but it can be easy done with LEDs. I will try them maybe on my next ship,
which is still  waiting on wardrobe.
Some more photos of boats and lantern.

Hello! 
a little progress done. I continue with boats - small frames were added, lantern is done - glazed with micro kristal klear, masts were turned on my home narex lathe...
Next are the channels, chain plates and deadeyes.

Hallo,
 
thanks for your likes. thanks for looking. I made some fotos with my phone, maybe it is better but still not perfect.
I added fenders on both sides of the ship. They are made each from 1 peace of walnut 4x4mm (against the plan, where is each from 3 pieces glued together).Next is lantern on the aft and the second boat. I do not know how it all fit in there, but we will see...

Hallo,
 
after a litlle pause I find a time for little update. I improve the top for main mast.
It will maybe look more like basket, not like that tub supplied in kit - but it is a good base
My camera has problem as you can see on the poor quality pictures.
Next fotos show stove or grill in this case and interior of Columbus cabin.

Hallo!
 
Thanks marktime I hope so. Aussie you made a good piece of work on your ship, I am looking your progress with interest.
 
Pictures show details of underdeck, windlass and transom.

Hello, 
 
thanks Marktime for looking, I am only carpenter . I made some paper models as a young boy but now I am making my first wooden ship and I really enjoy it.
 
Following pictures show my little progress in last days.

Thanks Nigel, Tim and Matti for comments!
 
Work goes on. I finished all 6 cannons a the rudder. Starting with deck furniture and fittings. I´m workin on hatches, binnacle and windlass.

Hi,
 
thanks David for your kind words.
Now shipcarpenter becomes a blacksmith and silversmith.
I have to produce 1pin for rudder hinges. There were only 3 pieces in the kit, but I need 4 for my improved rudder.
I made it from brass tube and wire. Soldering with gas solder using liquid solder for brass. I enyoyed it - maybe I mistook my craft.
Last foto shows the infernal tool compared with lighter.
 

Hi ,
 
Thank you Ian, I saw your Unicorn and I like it very much. I made some progress on cannons and with rudder.
 

Hull was stained with water-based stain. 
I didn´t like the metal stocks for cannnos from kit so I made my own. Material sapeli 2x6mm and brass 0,25mm.
Treenailing of main deck. I made holes 0,4mm and filled them with dark putty, then sanding.
Inner bulwark timbers.
 

...

While waiting for the ordered small nails matched the main deck beams.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Lower deck aft.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

..Thank you Jack..
 
So here's the promised wrap up..
Next thing was to add some nice attributes so it really starts to looks like a lantern, (and to hide some of the imperfections of the wood).
 
.. I started with “twisting” 3 strings of Ø 0.4 mm brass wire with a drill, pictures will show later where i used it.
 

 
I used a “rounding over” and an “edge cutter” and milled the profiles into 2 laths and by using the table saw I cut them into 4 individually shaped laths (but I ended up in only using 3 shapes..)
 


 
Then i really challenged the table saw by cutting them into 8 egual angled pieces (2x22,5 degrees cuts).
 


 
And could glue these into "perfectly" shaped octagons..
 

 
Glued the different octagons on top and bottom..
 

 
And camouflaged the “rough” sides of the lantern with pieces of twisted (blackened) brass wire.
..the final finish was to glue an (cannon) ball on top and to add a Ø1,5mm stick  and to cut the holder for it …
 

 
Taa-daa..
 



 
So next project will be to create the 2 "smaller" lanterns.. 
.. the ST has not "1", but "3" lanterns   

Thank you for your nice comments Michael, Randy & Sjors, and thanks to everyone for visiting/using the like button.
 
Finally I have some time to spend on some other details of the ST..
I had an idea in my head about how to create my own version of the poop lantern ..
 
Too be sure I use the right dimensions I started out with an template and made sure everything was in the same scale.
 

 
Creating the frame for the glass was a bit of a struggle (after several attempts) I found a "easy" way to manufacture these ..   
I used my mill setup (with an X-Y table) to have length consistency of the individual frame parts …
 

 
And used the table saw (with some “homemade” additions) to get the needed thickness of the frame.
 


 
The result after cutting/assembling them.
 


 
I used the same technique for the muntins and assembled them with the template I made earlier to make sure they fit inside the frames.
 

 
I made a top & bottom of 2 different sized pieces of 0.6 mm finer...
... and to make life a bit easier, i used a brass bar to keep the frames in place during the gluing process.
 

 
So far so good, the wrap up will follow soon...
 

 

I was able to spend a bit of time on the ship this weekend.
I made the cat blocks and I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't figure out a way to simulate the wider centre of the iron band around the block where the sheave pin goes through.
I started making the second anchor as well.

archjofo: thank you !
 
I made just a little progress: sails and anchors.
 
Jan

First part of the running rigging is finished. Now I can continue with sails - and the second part of the running rigging.
( ...and with anchors, rudders and flags.......It seems that ships will be finished very soon  )
 
Here are some pictures I took today.
 
Jan