bartley

Post 19 - Treenails
 
I used Chuck's method of drilling and filling. I used 1.3 mm tape to ensure that the holes were in line and corresponded to bulkheads and predicted positions of frames
 
 
 
 
I then used a sharp HB pencil to line the holes ans simulate tar.  I found that care was needed here.  If I was too aggressive there was excess graphite around the hole which made the filler darker resulting in a variation in the colour of the treenails
 

 
The result is quite subtle - as I believe it should be.  The treenails can only really be seen from up close
 


 
 
 
When I was a boy two Dutch children arrived at my school - no English, but it didn't take long
 
 
After a year or so their father built a house for the family.
 
 
This house was unique for two reasons:
 
 
1. It was varnished - in those days all houses in our town were painted.
 
 
2. It was claimed that he used no nails.
 
 
It turned out that all of the external weather-boards were attached to the studs with wooden pegs - treenails! (although I didn't Know the term then)
 
 
When I visited the house after getting to know the Dutch children I found that from the road there was no evidence of any pegs..  It was only when one approached within a meter or so that the begs became obvious,
 
 
I don't know if he had worked in the ship building industry but the point was that the effect of the wooden pegs was quite subtle.
 
 
John
 
 
 

Post 18
 
I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Time to move on to the treenails now
 

Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much  needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately.  The first ten strakes are on each side now.
 
 


 
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
 

 

Post 15
Lining out the hull. 
I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm.  There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B.  I hope this is correct!

Post 14
Finishing the wales.
 
The second layer of the wales was added and painted black.  I painted the edges first as I was not confident that I could do this afterwards and not get paint on the planking.
 

Post 13
 
Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action.  I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.
 
 
 

Post 12
 
Fashion Pieces added.  Some tweaking was needed to fit them to the shape of my transom

Post 11
 
Planking the Stern
 
First the outer frames had to be thinned down.  Pretty scary this!
 

Then the actual planking.  Planking the counter was OK.  I had more trouble with the transom.

Post 10
 
Planking above the wales
 
Planking up to the Molding strip was straight forward:
However planking around the gun-ports was tricky (for me at least) and took some time. However it is a nice little feature once done


Previous builds have involved continuous planking up to the sheer and then cutting the gunports into those planks an lining afterwards,  Chuck suggest that the rabbet should be 1/64 ‘’.  This is 0.39 mm.  I was not confident I could do this consistently so I made mine 0.5 mm.  I also found that for the fairly constant gaps amidships pre-making a set of planks  helped me to get the rabbet parallel to the port.  This is not my idea and I must  thank Rafine for the suggestion:
So here is the result:

Post 9
 
Wales and Molding Strip
 

 
The red that I am using here is Vallejo Flat Red.  .  Synthetic dies and bright colours were not developed until 1856 and even then they were expensive.  So the paint at this stage would have been red lead - cheap but effective. I feel that this colour is close to the red lead paint we used on our barns when I lived on a farm as a boy.  I dilute the paint down considerably with 50:50 Vallejo thinners and deionized water and then apply about seven coats.
 
John
 

Post 7
 
And now the stern filler blocks.  A bit rough but I think faired well enough to serve the purpose
 

Post 5
 
Framing the Stern
 
Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z)

Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these:

And the whole assembly faired to match the hull:


After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed.  As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times!  I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same:


Here is the result
 
 

A word of warning.
 
Chuck warns about this later with respect to the stern ports but it is also important to make sure that all the gun-port sills fit snugly.  If they are a fraction long they will push the bulkheads out of square and negate all of your careful fairing because it changes the angle.  This happened on a couple of mine but fortunately I noticed the bulkhead move  and so took a little off the sill in question.  It doesn't take much.
 
John

Here are some further images of the result



I also lined the chase ports as others have done on this forum (BE and Mike)
 

Post 4
 
I have now finished the Gun-port linings.  I used the method recommended by Chuck using a batten to obtain  smooth curve.  Although I eyeballed  the port and starboard battens to make sure they were the same.  I also double checked by using a level as here:

Although it is difficult to see in a photo, I think its done now.  Time to move on.

Unfortunately there are lots of photos of this step but obviously good planking depends on this step being correct.
 
 

 
 

Test battens seem to sit flat on most bulkheads but it is a bit proud at the bow.  So I thought I needed to take bit more of the marked bulkheads.

Obviously it is difficult to see how good (or bad) this is without seeing the actual model but this is the best I can do at this distance
 

The starboard side at least is looking close.  I notice from Chuck's pictures that there is virtually no lasr char left anywhere so maybe I need to go a bit further?
 
John

After a false start in which I snapped off the bow extension when removing the bulkhead former from the sheet!  Things seem to be going well now.  The two sections of the bulkhead former were glued together and the rabbet strip glued in place.

The stem pieces and the keel  were sanded on their faces to remove laser car but the edges were left unsanded.  The treenails were simulated as described by chuck using a 0.5 mm drill and filling with neutral filler.  After a coat of wipe-on-polly they were glued to the bulkhead former and fitted well with out the need for fettling.

As recommended by Chuck no laser char was remove from the bulkheads and all fitted firmly.  Care was taken to retain each one square in all directions.

The bow and port filler blocks are added.

Next comes, for me, the challenging process of fairing the hull correctly
 

I think I have a way to go yet but trial battens are beginning to look close. I am taking a rest now.  I think patience is the key here I am a little concerned about taking too much of the stern as others report it getting too narrow here.
 
John

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
 


 

Post 23 : Central Planking
 
I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking.
 
I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth:

I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card:

The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now: