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bartley

NRG Member
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About bartley

  • Birthday February 13

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  • Location
    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
  • Interests
    Reading, Classical music, Opera, Community band performance (clarinet), sailing and sometimes a bit of ship building.

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  1. Thanks, oldmate. Yes I have been a bit on-and-off on mine. Other hobbies. Other builds even. But you should persist. It's a great build. For me, lots of challenges. But all can be overcome and very satisfying then. Cheers, John
  2. I have made fine furniture for many years and have used both, On open grained timbers wipe-on-poly can look quite good if you wipe it off quickly and it is very durable so it is good on surfaces which will be subjected to wear and tear. However, in my opinion, there is no comparison to the patina of shellac. As someone else said, it becomes richer over the years. It is, after all, French Polish although you could not apply that technique to a model. In fact when I apply shellac to a model I wipe it off quickly just like you would with wipe-on-poly, If you do a side-by-side test on whatever timber you are using you will probably not see much difference. I t will only be when you look at it a year or so later that you will start to see the difference. John
  3. Post 69: Installation of the Topmast Yard The first task was to attach the truss, which was seized around the mast to hold the yard in place. Attachment of the halyard was straightforward. A hook was seized to a length of 0.63 mm rope which was attached to the sling. It was then led down to a tackle on the starboard side which was an exact mirror image of the topping lift tackle on the port side: Aligning the yard proved more difficult than I thought. First I fitted the clue lines and sheets since these were the inner ropes. I then used the tension on these to establish the correct angle for the yard. However since these also connect to the main yard tenshioning of these caused movement of both yards. So in the end I left these slack while I adjusted the angle with the lifts and braces and the re-tenshioned the sheets and clue lines quite loosely later. My alignment eye was checked with a laser level: John
  4. Paul, I like the look of these jigs. The only thing I would say is that 26 mm is a pretty big coil. When these are made in practice one holds the rope in each hand then stretches the arms out letting the rope slide through then bring the hands together to make a loop if this makes sense. The point is that the diameter of the loop is about half of your arm span. On our boat our coils were around 800 mm give or take, so you can work out what this would be at scale - around 16.5 Anyway, your model is looking great. A step above mine, I think Regards, John
  5. Paul, I agree that wrapping the serving over the seizing looks better. For what is worth, I am now using Mara polyester thread for serving. I found the cotton thread was a bit furry and Mara gives a smoother result in my opinion. Because I am winding my own rope I have this in various sizes and I like to use thinner serving thread on thinner rope. If you use 50 wt thread on say 0.45 mm rope it almost doubles the diameter. This looks wrong to my eye. Regards, John
  6. Post 68: Installing the Main Yard I have spent some time doing a final tidy up some of the belayed lines and trimming them off. Now it is time to install the main yard which was constructed some time ago. In principal the lifts control the vertical tilt and the braces the for and aft tilt. However, because the braces exert a downwards force I found that they really control both movements. I initially squared up everyting by eye but the laser showed I was a little off and helped me to be more precise: On the whole I am pretty happy with the way it looks but nothing is tied off permanently just yet and obviously the lifts are yet to be belayed. John
  7. Sorry for hijacking Paul's thread but I tried to give some guidance on serving issues here. It looks like Paul is using Gutterman 50 wt but lets wait to see if he confirms that/ Regards, John
  8. Dave, Use about 1 part metabisulphite (Sparex} to 7 Parts water. It is not critical, Add the Sparex to the water. Mot the other way round as it can be dangerous. Operation at 60 degrees Celsius for about 10 minutes is sufficient. Don't prolong the treatment because it is actually Itching the surface. If you want to dispose of the Sparex pour it slowly into a bicarbonate (baking soda) solution. It will fiz so do it slowly. You can then dispose of it down the drain, Wear gloves and eye protection throughout. It is not really dangerous chemistry but you don't want any of these things in your eyes and the blackening solution is actually poisonous, Regards, John
  9. Dave, A couple of extra hints. The exact procedure you need to use depends on the state of the brass. Some is treated with lacquer and the purpose of the acetone is to remove this. Look at my post here. On the other hand if the brass has an oxide coating (which it usually does) acetone will not remove it. In this case you need to use metabusuphite ( Sparex). So a safe procedure is to do both. I use acetone first and then metabisulphite. If your brass is clean it should only take about 15 sec to blacken. If you leave it longer it will develop a flakyness which will rub off. You can terminate the Sparex cleaning with bicarbonate. Then wash with water. In case you are interested I dealt with the chemistry here. John
  10. Dave, There is lots of info on this site about this - including stuff from me!. Search for "blackening revisited" for example. John
  11. Post 67: Topmast Backstays Chuck points out that on contemporary models these are seldom shown as rigged. I decided to rig mine for two reasons. First a practical one. If the topmast sail were deployed then the physics would demand that these backstay swere rigged in order to avoid damage to the topmast itself. The second reason is, I suppose an aesthetic one. If they are not rigged the aft chain plate is vacant. These run from the upper topmast to a block above the deck. A tacle is then rigged tpo a block attsched to a hook on the chanplate an thence to a cleat in the aft of the ship. John
  12. Post 66: Mounting Before proceeding further I felt I should finalize the mounting on a plinth. Captive nuts to take 1.4 mm brass threaded rod had been installed at the start of construction and the rod was now monted into these nuts: The plint was made from a plank of Australian hardwood which was given three coats of Danish OIl I have available the brass pedestals which many use: However for a wooden ship I prefer small wooden cradles. I was able to get the profiles pretty close because the mounting nuts were adjacent to bulkheads. These are just mock-ups at this stage as they wil eventually be the same colour as the plinth: So here is the ship mounted on the plinth: And the laser level indicates that the past is vertical with respect to the plinth: Next step is to install the yards whch were fabricated earlier. John
  13. Glenn, Just one further thought. Be careful with chucks on these devices . They are quite massive compared to the device itself and sometimes do not run true for small bits. They tend to precess so the drill does not run radially but describes a small circle. So you may be better off with collets or use a Kyocera bit because they have 3 mm shafts. John
  14. Glenn, I have used a Wecheer for some time now. It is rechargeable and has six speeds. The slowest very slow (about the same speed yo would use with a pin-vice) and great for working directly on the model where my Proxxon would be too large and aggressive. And it is very small (only 140 mm long). John
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