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bartley

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About bartley

  • Birthday February 13

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  • Location
    Queensland, Australia
  • Interests
    Classical music, Opera, Community band performance (clarinet) and sometimes a bit of ship building.

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  1. Post 42: Mounting the Carronades Time to mount the carronades on the deck. But first a couple of points I failed to mention earlier. Blackening, the guns The guns were blackened by the method suggested by chuck involving spraying with black paint (Vallejo warm black in my case) and then brushing with Rusty Brown weathering powder. I have some etch primer for brass but I find that it is quite viscous and destroys the detail a bit. So I spayed the black directly on the brass cannons after washing them in soap and water and then a di
  2. Post 41a: Breech Ropes / Carronades Here are the breech ropes fitted to the carronades ready for installation on the deck.
  3. Post 41: Breech Ropes These were made as described by Chuck using .035 Syren rope 3" long. In my case the connection to the ring bolt in the bulwark was made using a whipping close to the eyebolt. Bulwark eyebolts: 26 ga wire and 2.8mm rings (silver soldered closed). Carriage eyebolts: 24 Ga wire and 3.8mm rings. and then the center eyesplice made using an awl and coating with diluted PVA While on the subject of securing knots I thought that I might express my opinions on this. As with most on this f
  4. Topic 40a: Internal Ladders I have been asked to provide a bit more detail on ladder construction. So for what its worth here's what I did: First I made a jig with the correct angle from the plans Then I glued 4mm strips to this with a glue stick With my friend's mill I then cut slots at equidistant intervals. Flipping the jig gave ne left an right sides. For assembly I used this second jig to ensure the sides were parallel and the steps at right angles.
  5. Glenn, If you decide to have a look at Swann-Morton blades make sure you match the handle to the blade type. The handles are sold separately. So the blue is the conventional scalpel blade holder. This is the one I use mostly and the blades are about 2/3 the price of Excel blades (at least out here), The red is I think called a SM00 Handle and takes a different style of blade. You will see that I have a different shaped blade in this one. The orange Craft Knife has a different style blade again and I only obtained it by accident because I bought the wro
  6. Post 40 : Internal Ladders I love these little scratch building projects in this build. They look easy but, on reflection, are more difficult than they seem at first (at least for me). Chuck’s excellent instructions are a great help – better than the kit, which I built previously. However, I notice that he often stops short of providing the intimate details on how to build a particular component. Far be it for me to read his mind but I believe he wants us to problem solve. In this case, for instance, there are photos of the shapes of each of the parts. However, we must get the
  7. Good work Glenn. I found this almost the trickiest part of the whole build and much of my precious supply of boxwood ended up in the bin! Incidentally, I notice that you use No. 11 blades. For what its worth, coming from a beginner, I have given up on these in favour of Swann-Morton scalpel blades. I found the No 11's lost their edge pretty quickly. The scalpel blades seem to last longer and are cheap. I also find their hobby handles very comfortable. You are catching up to me fast. I am enjoying the build but am a bit slow and bumbly. John
  8. Post 39: The Catheads As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes. The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business, cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts. The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway: Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill. I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for. However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am n
  9. Yes Glenn, After all they are our models so we can do what we want. I think that the main issue was that someone wanted to use black rims to simulate metal bands so it was pointed out it that would not be done on a ship as it would damage the deck. Then that morphed into avoiding black altogether because it looked like metal. But our gunwales are black and no one says the look like metal! John
  10. Post 38: The Carronades This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder). The rigging of the guns is next. Th
  11. Great build Glenn! I am interested in your brass support pedestals. Cheerful is only my second build and my first one came with wooden pedestals. Did you make them yourself or are they available commercially? John
  12. Post 37: The Tiller The fabrication of the tiller was straight forward. I glued the profile from the plan to 2 mm boxwood sheet with a glue stick. I prefer this method of attaching paper rather than PVA as it us easily removed with alcohol leaving no residue. Then, after cutting out the shape with my Knew jeweler's saw, I used files and sanding sticks to make a round profile. I found that leaving a chunky handle made the sanding process easier I will not install it yet as it is quite fragile and I am concerned that it migh
  13. I totally agree Patrick. I solder most of my rings closed and when using true silver solder the annealing makes them so sloppy I may as well use a rubber band! There is little force on these rings so Stay-Brite provides adequate strength. John
  14. Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc. John
  15. Post 36: Pin Rails The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight: Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large, John
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