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bartley

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  1. Thomas, I agree entirely with Bruce's comments about registration. As I said above I have not used the MicroMark system which uses photo resist on both sides of the plate but I did recently try to print some flags by printing one image on the "front side" side and a mirror image on the other side. I expperienced a real problem with registration. My printer did not even produce the same sized image when it printed a mirror image! In the end I got close by using four registration marks on an image in photoshop then flipping it in photoshop and making sure that the registration marks lined up in photoshop before printing. Regards, John
  2. Thomas, I have done a bit of this but only for small parts. A couple of points that I would make: 1. It is going to take a long time to etch a large sheet of the dimensions you give. You may be better off to etch several smaller sheets as things do not always go to plan and you could more easily repeat smaller sheets. than having to repeat a large sheet. 2. One of the problems with thick sheets is "undercutting" where the etchant leeks under the image. 3. MicroMark partly deal with this by having an image on either side of the plate but registration might be a problem. I have not used their system. 4. What I did was attach a block of polystyrene to the back of the plate so that the plate floated and only the image side was in the etchant. Hope this helps. John
  3. Post 15 Lining out the hull. I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm. There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B. I hope this is correct!
  4. Post 14 Finishing the wales. The second layer of the wales was added and painted black. I painted the edges first as I was not confident that I could do this afterwards and not get paint on the planking.
  5. Dave, I live in Brisbane as well and am interested in who you bought your molded acrylic from. A very nice build incidentally. John
  6. Post 13 Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action. I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.
  7. Post 12 Fashion Pieces added. Some tweaking was needed to fit them to the shape of my transom
  8. Paul, I have just received a catalogue from Record Power. They seem to have evolved from the original Sheffield based company which I know as a manufacturer of hand tools. They claim a 100 year history. Their hand tools were OK but not a patch on a company such as Veritas. Record Power seems to market only power tools . Their Scroll Saw looks identical to mine which is called a 909 Scroll Saw, However, Record Power say that theirs is made in Germany so perhaps mine is a Chinese copy of the Record one!!. Out here it sells for 3 X the price I paid so perhaps it is of better quality. John
  9. I believe that these are probably Chinese. They are sold all around the world under different badges. Even Ryobi sell what looks like exactly the same saw. I own one which I bought some time ago for A$80. It is OK for basic curve cutting but not very precise compared to a quality band saw It has no fence so straight cuts are difficult. You get what you pay for. John
  10. Chuck, I have been experimenting with some treenailing above the wales. I have a couple of questions> Between the bulkheads I find I am drilling right thru the plank. Presumably this is Ok since it will be covered by the bulwark planking? Secondly: How do you avoid filling the caulking line between the planks?
  11. We are heading "state-side" next week so this build will be on hold for a while.
  12. Post 11 Planking the Stern First the outer frames had to be thinned down. Pretty scary this! Then the actual planking. Planking the counter was OK. I had more trouble with the transom.
  13. Chuck, I obviously need to sand this back quite a bit to level up the planks but I am not sure how aggressive I can be here. I am used to double planking where a bit of bog can be used to help but this is a new world. I guess 3/64 is quite thick and any deviations are only a few thou. John
  14. Post 10 Planking above the wales Planking up to the Molding strip was straight forward: However planking around the gun-ports was tricky (for me at least) and took some time. However it is a nice little feature once done Previous builds have involved continuous planking up to the sheer and then cutting the gunports into those planks an lining afterwards, Chuck suggest that the rabbet should be 1/64 ‘’. This is 0.39 mm. I was not confident I could do this consistently so I made mine 0.5 mm. I also found that for the fairly constant gaps amidships pre-making a set of planks helped me to get the rabbet parallel to the port. This is not my idea and I must thank Rafine for the suggestion: So here is the result:

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