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About bartley

  • Birthday February 13

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    Queensland, Australia

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  1. Post 20 Fancy Molding I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
  2. Post 19 - Treenails I used Chuck's method of drilling and filling. I used 1.3 mm tape to ensure that the holes were in line and corresponded to bulkheads and predicted positions of frames I then used a sharp HB pencil to line the holes ans simulate tar. I found that care was needed here. If I was too aggressive there was excess graphite around the hole which made the filler darker resulting in a variation in the colour of the treenails The result is quite subtle - as I believe it should be. The treenails can only really be seen from up close When I was a boy two Dutch children arrived at my school - no English, but it didn't take long After a year or so their father built a house for the family. This house was unique for two reasons: 1. It was varnished - in those days all houses in our town were painted. 2. It was claimed that he used no nails. It turned out that all of the external weather-boards were attached to the studs with wooden pegs - treenails! (although I didn't Know the term then) When I visited the house after getting to know the Dutch children I found that from the road there was no evidence of any pegs.. It was only when one approached within a meter or so that the begs became obvious, I don't know if he had worked in the ship building industry but the point was that the effect of the wooden pegs was quite subtle. John
  3. Chuck, You are very kind. There are a few defiencies in places that I am not happy with but fo my first go at single planking it is not too bad. I cannot find on yje plans the profile for the small ear that crosses the molding over to the stem. Am I missing something? John
  4. Post 18 I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me. Time to move on to the treenails now
  5. I have now obtained some boxwood and ripped some planks so I can now move ahead:-
  6. DelF mentions their comments on what they call the "Versions" of Victory - which are not only convoluted but also inaccurate. I was particularly interested to note that all these comments are by Administrators and at the bottom of the page it says " Not open for further replies". So, as mentioned above, they muzzle discussion on these issues. Very suspicious. What is a forum for after all? John
  7. There will be a bit of delay on this build while I try to source some more boxwood. Although I did originally buy enough strips from Jason to complete the planking, I discovered that a significant number of strips had a rather ugly cross grain and they were also a couple of shades darker in colour. I may yet have to use them but I will first try to source some better quality material. I can now rip my own planks on my Byrnes but finished Boxwood sheets are becoming difficult to obtain. John
  8. Post 16 A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now. And I have completed the square tuck now as well
  9. Thomas, I agree entirely with Bruce's comments about registration. As I said above I have not used the MicroMark system which uses photo resist on both sides of the plate but I did recently try to print some flags by printing one image on the "front side" side and a mirror image on the other side. I expperienced a real problem with registration. My printer did not even produce the same sized image when it printed a mirror image! In the end I got close by using four registration marks on an image in photoshop then flipping it in photoshop and making sure that the registration marks lined up in photoshop before printing. Regards, John
  10. Thomas, I have done a bit of this but only for small parts. A couple of points that I would make: 1. It is going to take a long time to etch a large sheet of the dimensions you give. You may be better off to etch several smaller sheets as things do not always go to plan and you could more easily repeat smaller sheets. than having to repeat a large sheet. 2. One of the problems with thick sheets is "undercutting" where the etchant leeks under the image. 3. MicroMark partly deal with this by having an image on either side of the plate but registration might be a problem. I have not used their system. 4. What I did was attach a block of polystyrene to the back of the plate so that the plate floated and only the image side was in the etchant. Hope this helps. John
  11. Post 15 Lining out the hull. I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm. There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B. I hope this is correct!
  12. Post 14 Finishing the wales. The second layer of the wales was added and painted black. I painted the edges first as I was not confident that I could do this afterwards and not get paint on the planking.
  13. Dave, I live in Brisbane as well and am interested in who you bought your molded acrylic from. A very nice build incidentally. John
  14. Post 13 Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action. I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.
  15. Post 12 Fashion Pieces added. Some tweaking was needed to fit them to the shape of my transom

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