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About bartley

  • Birthday February 13

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
  • Interests
    Classical music, Opera, Community band performance (clarinet), sailing and sometimes a bit of ship building.

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  1. Thanks for your comment, Sea Hoss. First let me acknowledge Tom Lauria who originated this method. Tom uses an ellipse from a template such as this. As I said I prefer a less symmetrical appearance so first I draw up a rough sketch of the size and shape I want to achieve: I would make two or three of these of slightly different shape since on a working ship these coils are neat but not identical. Then i drill holes and insert pins as Tom does and continue with his method. John
  2. Post 61: Faking Down Before the ratlines get in the way I decided to at least attach some rope coils. I use the method of Tom Lauria. I find that that his oval jig produces coils that are a little too symmetrical for my taste so I slightly modify the shape of the jig to make it a little more pointed at one end. After painting with diluted acrylic medium the coils are allowed to dry and then cut from the jig. and here are some attached to belaying pins I am not entirely happy with how the look, but the more
  3. Bill Could you please provide me with Mikhail's Email address. John
  4. PRS, The answer is yes, and no. It depends on the glue you use (PVA orCA) but in the end the bond is only as strong as the poly to wood bond. I always sand or at least roughen the poly before gluing to it. John
  5. Tidying Up the rigging. Now that the shrouds are on, its time for a final tightening and trimming off some of those "dangly bits". Here is the for'ard region tidied up a bit. \ John
  6. Another way to give a kind of 3D feel is to paint over the letters or part of them with acrylic gel medium which is available from art stores. It is transparent but builds up the surface. John
  7. By the way, I sailed for a day on the square rigger in the foreground down in Cornwall some years ago. There was no way that their deadeyes were in line. They thought it was a strange thing to expect. Apparently the shrouds stretch differently and it is more important to tension the rig to account for this than keep the deadeyes level. John
  8. Post 60: Rigging the Shrouds Though I have done this on my previous build, I cheated and used three horizontal seizings. This time I decided to do it the " proper" way with a throat seizing as described in Chuck's monograph. I had some discussions with him about the details of this since the book by Lees and others suggest that the shroud should run anticlockwise around the deadeye but in Chuck's diagram they are clockwise. His point was that neatness was the main point and that for a right handed person it was easier to tie the throat seizing on the right hand side and so I ele
  9. As others have said, it seems questionable on a square rigger. However on Cheerful, which has a huge gaff rigged fore and aft sail, the backstays are served all the way down because as the main is sheeted out to go off the wind there would be considerable chaffing. Mind you, in this situation the leeward backstay would have been slackened anyway. John
  10. Post 59: Rigging the Jib Halyard Fortunately Chuck supplies a traveler ring. Making one this good from scratch would be a challenge. I decided to stabilize the ring with the out-hall and in-haul before attaching the halyard. Obviously the ring was slid onto the bowsprit before it was installed but I had seized the out-haul onto the ring first. The out-haul travels forward, through the sheave at the tip of the bowsprit and then back aft to belay on the bits at the bow. The in=haul start with a "V" which is s
  11. Glenn, You will see that I went with standing rigging gangs first before fitting the. topmast. For me there was no way I could tie them neatly on the ship. I did not tie off the shrouds though as I thought they might grt in the way of running riggging but in retrospect it would have been OK John
  12. Post 58: Rigging the Gaff. Before I commenced this job I needed to make some more thimbles. To do this I cut 2mm lengths of 1.6 mm tubing using a Jewelers Tube Cutting jig . I also have a pliers type jig. The advantage of these is that they capture the cutoff piece. However they do not have a small slot to hold this narrow tubing so I used the more complex jig although care need to be exercised so as to not loose the cut off piece. For those living in Australia, Australian Jewelers Supply have useful range of tools suitable for our ho
  13. Post 56a. Mast Cap and Topmast: This Post is out of order and should have come before the last one (Post 57). The topmast was made art the same time as the mainmast and dry fitted as shown here The topmast was removed so that the lower the gangs for the standing rigging could be slipped over the masthead. Now that this is complete the topmast can be installed. The dimensions for the mast cap are given in the plans and two holes were drilled in the appropriate places - the forward one to take the topmast and the aft one was squared up to take the mainmas
  14. Some great tools for our hobby are available from Jewellery supply stores. Amongst the tools I have bought from such outlets over the years include: Swiss quality needle nosed pliers: bending mandrels: These cone shaped sanding tools (5mm tip on this one): Vallorbe files: Particularly this Barrett style file which you will notice has no teeth on the sides: Tube cutting jig: Knew Concept Saw Copper wire: As well as silver soldering e
  15. Just an additional comment, Bob, the best place for the small ones is a jewellery supplier. I find they have lots of good stuff. Or try searching "small bending mandrel" because there are industrial scale ones. John
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