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    Queensland, Australia

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  1. Dave, I live in Brisbane as well and am interested in who you bought your molded acrylic from. A very nice build incidentally. John
  2. Post 13 Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action. I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.
  3. Post 12 Fashion Pieces added. Some tweaking was needed to fit them to the shape of my transom
  4. Paul, I have just received a catalogue from Record Power. They seem to have evolved from the original Sheffield based company which I know as a manufacturer of hand tools. They claim a 100 year history. Their hand tools were OK but not a patch on a company such as Veritas. Record Power seems to market only power tools . Their Scroll Saw looks identical to mine which is called a 909 Scroll Saw, However, Record Power say that theirs is made in Germany so perhaps mine is a Chinese copy of the Record one!!. Out here it sells for 3 X the price I paid so perhaps it is of better quality. John
  5. I believe that these are probably Chinese. They are sold all around the world under different badges. Even Ryobi sell what looks like exactly the same saw. I own one which I bought some time ago for A$80. It is OK for basic curve cutting but not very precise compared to a quality band saw It has no fence so straight cuts are difficult. You get what you pay for. John
  6. Chuck, I have been experimenting with some treenailing above the wales. I have a couple of questions> Between the bulkheads I find I am drilling right thru the plank. Presumably this is Ok since it will be covered by the bulwark planking? Secondly: How do you avoid filling the caulking line between the planks?
  7. We are heading "state-side" next week so this build will be on hold for a while.
  8. Post 11 Planking the Stern First the outer frames had to be thinned down. Pretty scary this! Then the actual planking. Planking the counter was OK. I had more trouble with the transom.
  9. Chuck, I obviously need to sand this back quite a bit to level up the planks but I am not sure how aggressive I can be here. I am used to double planking where a bit of bog can be used to help but this is a new world. I guess 3/64 is quite thick and any deviations are only a few thou. John
  10. Post 10 Planking above the wales Planking up to the Molding strip was straight forward: However planking around the gun-ports was tricky (for me at least) and took some time. However it is a nice little feature once done Previous builds have involved continuous planking up to the sheer and then cutting the gunports into those planks an lining afterwards, Chuck suggest that the rabbet should be 1/64 ‘’. This is 0.39 mm. I was not confident I could do this consistently so I made mine 0.5 mm. I also found that for the fairly constant gaps amidships pre-making a set of planks helped me to get the rabbet parallel to the port. This is not my idea and I must thank Rafine for the suggestion: So here is the result:
  11. Post 7 And now the stern filler blocks. A bit rough but I think faired well enough to serve the purpose
  12. Post 5 Framing the Stern Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z) Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these: And the whole assembly faired to match the hull: After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed. As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times! I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same: Here is the result
  13. BE, You mentioned above that the Birchwood Casey stuff seems "nasty stuff". Yes indeed! All of these products contain selenous acid ( and selinic acid once used. These a both poisonous chemicals and also carcigenic. Avoid skin contact. Wear gloves. and if any gests on your skin wash with copious amounts of water. Good work though. John
  14. A word of warning. Chuck warns about this later with respect to the stern ports but it is also important to make sure that all the gun-port sills fit snugly. If they are a fraction long they will push the bulkheads out of square and negate all of your careful fairing because it changes the angle. This happened on a couple of mine but fortunately I noticed the bulkhead move and so took a little off the sill in question. It doesn't take much. John

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