bartley
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Post 23 : Central Planking I have now completed the installation of the Deck furniture and the central planking. I made sure that the various units matched the deck camber by attaching a piece of sandpaper to the deck and moving the item back and forth: I made sure that he items were correctly placed by using a jig made from thick card: The planking around these items took some time but seems to be OK now:
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Chuck, Another question if I may. Looking ahead, I notice that the plan for the forward hatch has 7X7 but in your log looks like 8X8. This makes it fit close to five planks but I guess if I have mine 7 X 7 then I just need to use a wider plank after the first five to allow for the notch. There seems to be a butt join just after that hatch so it shouldn't be too bad. It looks like I am going to need to use wider planks for the hooked scarphs as well. Is this correct? I have plenty of 3/16 now but not much wider stuff so I mustn't wast it if I don't need to. John
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Chuck, Thank you for your kind words. I am preparing for deck planking now. Does this curve look about right. I have not done curved planking before and am looking forward to it. John
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Post 22: Margin Planks I have been away from the workshop for a bit but the caprails and margin planks are now complete. The margin planks were difficult until I established a technique for fabricating these. several attempts ended up in the bin. They are not in Chuck's league but are as good as I could get them. John
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Brass plaque etching
bartley replied to Murcia 66's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
There is a thread about this type of etching under the heading "Photo Etching - do it yourself" John -
OK, ASAT, I see what's happening now. I hadn't read the thread properly to see it was double planked. So if he cuts longer planks it should look OK. The only issue that toward the keel there will be a big difference between the first and second planking. so it looks like this need replacing as well unless he were to fill the disrepancny in some way. Kalakukko, we have all made mistakes some are more easily corrected than others. John
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When you redo this you could adjust a couple of other things apart from the length of the planks. I notice that you also have a "pointed" plank. This would never be done in practice s it would be a source of leakage. Planks should never be tapered to more than half of their full width. This is caused largely because your last six planks could be tapered a bit more but also because your garboard finishes a bit too far forward. If you finish it a bit further aft that will avoid crowding of the next four planks. The ones after that look OK ( except of course they need to be extended into the rabbet). You could probably finis the garboard not far forward of that join between the stem and the keel. John
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Brass plaque etching
bartley replied to Murcia 66's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Here is an example. My shop can produce a variety of effects. for example the negative of this (brass writing on a black background) John -
Brass plaque etching
bartley replied to Murcia 66's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Yes, Reklein, this is exactly what I do. I draw up the plaque in Illustrator, save it as an eps file and the sports trophy shop etches it on a brass plate for about A$20. John -
I used to buy these sample pots as well but eventually I found that the coarse pigments in house paint resulted in a "grainy finish". I now bite the bullet and pay the money for model paints such as Valejo and I believe the finish is superior. John
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Straightening aftermarket rigging line
bartley replied to DonInAZ's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There seems to be a bit of confusion here with the chemistry. It is a bit pedantic but I think it helps in trying to classify these products. PVA stands for poly vinyl acetate (not acrylate) Titebond, Elmers and book binders glue are all PVA's but the exact formulation gives rise to different or pH's or acidity. The significant thing about Bookbinders glue and some other "craft" glues is that they are neutral (pH 7). CA is cyano acrylate. This is a very different animal as we know from its properties. Note it is not a polymer in the bottle but polymerizes on contact with moisture. Many acrylates are lachrymatory ((they make us cry) However, Perspex and the polymer in water based paints are also acrylates but they have a different chemical structure and are less harmful, largely because they are already polymerized and so are relatively stable although hey do degrade with time. CA is what we call a monomer ie it is a small molecule and so has some rather dangerous properties. Once it has polymerized or "set" it is much less harmful. Hope this iis not too confusing, John -
Straightening aftermarket rigging line
bartley replied to DonInAZ's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan, The pH of the faster setting PVA's like Tightbond is around 2.5. This is very acidic and I believe that there is a chance that it will damage natural fiber line over time. You have to ask yourself why bookbinders use neutral PVA. Books are cellulose just like natural fiber line is. Synthetic line might be OK. but I always use neutral PVA on my rigging to be on the safe side. It does take longer to set of course. John -
Post 21 False Deck and Caprails It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck Then the bulwarks were planked and painted And finally the caprails added in three pieces I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty. This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact. John
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Chuck, I joined over there recently just to see what their views were and to see if I could stir up some controversy. When ever I raise a controversial issue on this subject I get an immediate response from the administrators and then lots of "bravo's" from members. The absence of logic beggars belief. For example: 1. There is a lot of talk about "freedom" (to build what you want). "We fought wars tor such freedom", . But when I pointed out that we are not free to commit murder or rape or to steal or commit domestic violence there was a stony silence. 2. There is an individual over there who has done quite an an authoritative series of posts on Copyright and Licensing including quotations , letters and costs from NMM. He gets praised for explaining all this but nobody seems to make the connection between these issues and piracy. 3. There is a thread on "the future of the hobby" but nobody except me has pointed out that Piracy stifles innovation and that this could have a major effect on the "future of the hobby" I guess I will get banned in the end. John
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Post 20 Fancy Molding I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
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