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    Queensland, Australia

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  1. Chuck, I have been experimenting with some treenailing above the wales. I have a couple of questions> Between the bulkheads I find I am drilling right thru the plank. Presumably this is Ok since it will be covered by the bulwark planking? Secondly: How do you avoid filling the caulking line between the planks?
  2. We are heading "state-side" next week so this build will be on hold for a while.
  3. Post 11 Planking the Stern First the outer frames had to be thinned down. Pretty scary this! Then the actual planking. Planking the counter was OK. I had more trouble with the transom.
  4. Chuck, I obviously need to sand this back quite a bit to level up the planks but I am not sure how aggressive I can be here. I am used to double planking where a bit of bog can be used to help but this is a new world. I guess 3/64 is quite thick and any deviations are only a few thou. John
  5. Post 10 Planking above the wales Planking up to the Molding strip was straight forward: However planking around the gun-ports was tricky (for me at least) and took some time. However it is a nice little feature once done Previous builds have involved continuous planking up to the sheer and then cutting the gunports into those planks an lining afterwards, Chuck suggest that the rabbet should be 1/64 ‘’. This is 0.39 mm. I was not confident I could do this consistently so I made mine 0.5 mm. I also found that for the fairly constant gaps amidships pre-making a set of planks helped me to get the rabbet parallel to the port. This is not my idea and I must thank Rafine for the suggestion: So here is the result:
  6. Post 7 And now the stern filler blocks. A bit rough but I think faired well enough to serve the purpose
  7. Post 5 Framing the Stern Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z) Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these: And the whole assembly faired to match the hull: After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed. As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times! I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same: Here is the result
  8. BE, You mentioned above that the Birchwood Casey stuff seems "nasty stuff". Yes indeed! All of these products contain selenous acid ( and selinic acid once used. These a both poisonous chemicals and also carcigenic. Avoid skin contact. Wear gloves. and if any gests on your skin wash with copious amounts of water. Good work though. John
  9. A word of warning. Chuck warns about this later with respect to the stern ports but it is also important to make sure that all the gun-port sills fit snugly. If they are a fraction long they will push the bulkheads out of square and negate all of your careful fairing because it changes the angle. This happened on a couple of mine but fortunately I noticed the bulkhead move and so took a little off the sill in question. It doesn't take much. John
  10. Here are some further images of the result I also lined the chase ports as others have done on this forum (BE and Mike)
  11. Post 4 I have now finished the Gun-port linings. I used the method recommended by Chuck using a batten to obtain smooth curve. Although I eyeballed the port and starboard battens to make sure they were the same. I also double checked by using a level as here:
  12. Thanks far all of your responses. I was particularly interested in the point made by Mark P that the British in particular attempted to get their ship to windward of the enemy. This would be an enormous tactical advantage. Without going into intimate sailing theory , a ship in this position can "lay off the wind" causing it to both accelerate and bear down on the enemy. He cannot do the same to you because he would have to "move upwind" and he could only do this by a few degrees and it would also slow him down. Those who have sailed competitively would know that this bearing down maneuver is not allowed and could result in disqualification. The rule is "a windward boat must keep clear." But this was war! No such niceties would apply! John
  13. Although it is difficult to see in a photo, I think its done now. Time to move on.
  14. Unfortunately there are lots of photos of this step but obviously good planking depends on this step being correct. Test battens seem to sit flat on most bulkheads but it is a bit proud at the bow. So I thought I needed to take bit more of the marked bulkheads. Obviously it is difficult to see how good (or bad) this is without seeing the actual model but this is the best I can do at this distance

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