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Y.T.

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Everything posted by Y.T.

  1. Y.T.
    I also enjoy how the planking was done at the bow. Looks like planks were cut out curved off the sheets of wood rather than force bending the straight ones. The planks lay out so naturally and almost perfectly parallel to waterline even at the bow.
  2. Y.T.
    These old model hulls in museums look like they were tainted to look as dark wood and lacquered. Is this correct observation? I am interested how these models were finished. May be they were not finished at all and collected and old look with time?
  3. Y.T.
    Glue it with thin CA as suggested. You can press plank in with the fingers but through the plastic bag. If gaps are present fill them in with wood filler or the saw dust mixed with PVA. Grind smooth with scrapers and sand paper. Repaint.
  4. Y.T.
    A stay "mouse" of course.
  5. Y.T.
    I was just kidding. Myself had started the hobby about that age.
  6. Y.T.
    Age of 52 is too young for wooden ship building. 😊
  7. Y.T.
    Cheer up. As this is a wooden model, everything can be repaired on this model. Carrying sails ship model in the soft bag however is a mistake.
  8. Y.T.
    Hi. When I hear "CDs are included" I feel I am sorry. Contemporary computer equipment do not have CD playing accommodation. I do not even have it in my car or on any device at home. In order to play a CD the only place I can go to is to my moms. She has a computer I bought her 5 years ago. She is 87 years old.
  9. Y.T.
    Speaking of mast’s complexity “You ain’t seen nothing yet” 😊
  10. Y.T.
    I cannot see any of treenails on today's Victory hull on this photo. Looks more like some nails heads. I can see some on the other pics. None would be seen under the paint and at 1:96 scale.
  11. Y.T.
    I think you are right. No-one can see treenails in common scale as 1:48 as example except the current modelers.
  12. Y.T.
    One more from Victory deck
  13. Y.T.
    Look here
  14. Y.T.
    As for gold and copper I can recommend paints shown on the pictures. I was pleased with the results.
  15. Y.T.
    You also can secure the dowel into electrical drill chuck. Use same wooden guide arrangement as topic starter shows. Turning on the drill but not turning on a sander disk may provide much cleaner results.
  16. Y.T.
    I agree. Also your idea is new to me and good in some circumstances. Enjoy discovering a pleasure of ship building.
  17. Y.T.
    Well. I got the idea. Issue is you can only machine the length of dowel equal to half of your grinding wheel diameter. What when you need a longer taper? Another limitation I see is when one needs to taper a small diameter dowels as 3 mm to 2 mm for example. The grinder may chew on the dowel.
  18. Y.T.
    Can you please provide more details? I didn’t understand.
  19. Y.T.
    Absolutely correct. Deal with your own government if not happy with tariffs.
  20. Y.T.
    This hobby is an expensive one and as long as hobbyist is ready to pay more for the products they want the manufacturers will be fine.
  21. Y.T.
    I do not use airbrush. I do not own it. All my modelling painting I do with a hand brush. It comes out very good to my opinion. I cannot imagine how I would mask whole ship hull with something to make sure that air brush does not pollute my whole project.
  22. Y.T.
    I apply it (diluted shellac) with small brush. Wash it with water and soap after use.
  23. Y.T.
    Hi, Chris. Where is your business located? Is it in UK or US? Not clear from your remarks.
  24. Y.T.
    I made my own from flakes. I would try to dilute the one sold in cans at 50% (half - half) with 100% alcohol. Try a small portion to see how you like it.
  25. Y.T.
    I have very diluted shellac. It is diluted with 100% alcohol. It dries almost instantly being absorbed by the wood. By the time I apply it on the mast or yard the end I started from is ready to get new coat. I apply up to about 10 coats till I get proper shade depth.

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