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Y.T.

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Everything posted by Y.T.

  1. By the way I received this drilling positioner tool today. Looks very nice, well made all metal.
  2. I have unpleasant experience with DSPIAE tool maker. IMHO their tools are bad but made to look as expensive quality tools. I have their circle cutter. All hex head adjustment screws are made of material so soft that their hex indent gets broken first time I tried to have them adjusted with hex key.
  3. Well. Wasa had sunk on its own. Design problems. What about Falken? Again problems with design? What was the reason for it to sink?
  4. I tried my old jewelers draw plate today. I easily drew my 3.87 mm wood dowel into 3.5 mm and 1.78 bamboo toothpick into 1.5 mm. These are the sizes required for the tool in question.
  5. I am sure you'd enjoy making it but your expenses will be 10 times the purchase price of $25 US.
  6. I had not much success using a dowel plate on wood. I found no way to draw it through holes. It beaks if drawn or pushed through. May be I need to know some technics? How to draw the wood through the holes?
  7. Here it is for a third of a price. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009136471457.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.7a1eFTQvFTQv0U&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=27f490df-9fae-4fba-9710-2122afaa99e6&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:27f490df-9fae-4fba-9710-2122afaa99e6,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238113%231998&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"250"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!CAD!54.57!34.38!!!39.24!24.72!%402101ec1a17501082161951638ecee0!12000048045620437!rec!CA!4223898072!X&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A#nav-description
  8. But still very hard to resist the temptation.
  9. This is cool tool. I would be especially interested in axial center drilling. Thinking over it I can see that to have a good centered hole I must use very accurately dimensioned round dowel stock. I measured my so called 4 mm dowels and they are all 3.87 mm. I have to put it into a groove marked as 4 mm DIA. The drilled hole will not be at axial center. I am afraid it will be very noticeable by the eye.
  10. This photo is just a support of my advocacy for shiny ropes. At the end ship model is always an artistic representation of a real ship.
  11. My opinion is the rope shine just adds the beauty to the model. Just IMHO.
  12. I bought all three. 24 TPI for rougher cuts. I use 32 the most.
  13. I recommend this machine. I own it. I use it. It will last. https://www.shipworkshop.com/product-page/sm4-series-serving-machines-wrapping-machines
  14. Hi, druxey. We met on this forum before. Nice to hear from you.
  15. The first was the worst.now it takes only 15 minutes to make one and each time it gets better and better.
  16. I spent half day making just one strap. I never cursed as much. I threw away three samples which came out to be too ugly. I hate the last one as well but it still maybe is acceptable. Here are the results.
  17. Hi, Henry, thank you so much. This is a great help! I do have serving machine. I was aware of the method but it produced pretty poor results as I did not know of final touch of serving over two lashed eyes. I understand this is done off the serving machine by hand. How do you hold the loop? Are you using some jig or hold it in your hands?
  18. Hi, I am looking for help building a Strap for topgallant shrouds. My project is 1:90 scale HMS Victory. I am struggling with how to make a continuous rope loop which is served with thin line. Small scale presenting additional problems. Help!
  19. Amazing little machine. It has all major features of industrial full size machines.
  20. So not to be unsubstantiated here is a picture of newly installed shroud deadeyes. They are not yet made tight.
  21. I do similar way as you but a bit different. My shroud deadeyes are removable off the jig. I seize the shroud line pair on the mast first and fix the seizing with drop of CA. I wrap the deadeyes uninstalled on the jig with shroud ends. Then I adjust the throat seizing location, while trying the shroud tension by putting the deadeye in and out off the jig. When satisfied I set the seizing with drop of CA. Tedious process but this is what I found the best for me for having the deadeyes in line. So not to be unsubstantiated here is a picture of newly installed shroud deadeyes. They are not yet made tight.
  22. Wow. This looks great. It would be also very beneficial to place the elbows on some support when you do rigging.
  23. I really enjoyed looking at pictures you provided and the journey you are making towards perfection of your workmanship. Lots to learn for me with rigging as this is something I will be doing one day on my model but it is in more modest scale (1:90).
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