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Y.T.

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Everything posted by Y.T.

  1. Either the Shellac you have is too old so will never dry up. This substance is organic so can be after its best before date a few years OR you applied way to many layers of thick Shellac and they are unable to dry up.
  2. I bought this attachment on eBay for something like $300 Canadian. Any Unimat parts are expensive.
  3. No. Thanks. I will keep it. About the motor the former owner said it is not after market. It’s a later improved version with 100% duty. It is one speed DC with brushes.
  4. Just for you to compare. Sherline is also small and I keep it in my walk in closet on the floor.
  5. Yes. At the end you will not be able to do all you want on Unimat as it is too small and will buy Sherline or whatever is larger you like. Unimat will sit collecting dust and reminding you that you spent $1000 in vain.
  6. If I were you, tmj, I would think again buying Unimat. As I said I own both Unimat DB/SL and Sherline with extended base. Both were purchased second hand locally through local equivalent of Craigs List. Now Unimat sits idle as Sherline can do any job that a Unimat can. I should have sold Unimat but somehow feel attached to it.
  7. It is not necessarily a bearing issue. Unimat I have has a pretty loud motor. Louder than Sherline.
  8. Speaking of collets for Sherline, I just purchased ER16 collet holder on AliExpress. Sherline uses Morse #1 cone. This holder costs CAD 16 with shipping. Set of ER16 collets from 1 mm to 13 mm I got for CAD 27. This is just a small fraction of what Sherline charges for their collets. And the ER collets also more useful than ones they sell to my opinion.
  9. I own Sherline lathe and Sherline mill. I also own Unimat lathe. This is all I will ever need for modeling. What is good about them? They are good.
  10. I also enjoy how the planking was done at the bow. Looks like planks were cut out curved off the sheets of wood rather than force bending the straight ones. The planks lay out so naturally and almost perfectly parallel to waterline even at the bow.
  11. These old model hulls in museums look like they were tainted to look as dark wood and lacquered. Is this correct observation? I am interested how these models were finished. May be they were not finished at all and collected and old look with time?
  12. Glue it with thin CA as suggested. You can press plank in with the fingers but through the plastic bag. If gaps are present fill them in with wood filler or the saw dust mixed with PVA. Grind smooth with scrapers and sand paper. Repaint.
  13. I was just kidding. Myself had started the hobby about that age.
  14. Age of 52 is too young for wooden ship building. 😊
  15. Cheer up. As this is a wooden model, everything can be repaired on this model. Carrying sails ship model in the soft bag however is a mistake.
  16. Hi. When I hear "CDs are included" I feel I am sorry. Contemporary computer equipment do not have CD playing accommodation. I do not even have it in my car or on any device at home. In order to play a CD the only place I can go to is to my moms. She has a computer I bought her 5 years ago. She is 87 years old.
  17. Speaking of mast’s complexity “You ain’t seen nothing yet” 😊
  18. I cannot see any of treenails on today's Victory hull on this photo. Looks more like some nails heads. I can see some on the other pics. None would be seen under the paint and at 1:96 scale.
  19. I think you are right. No-one can see treenails in common scale as 1:48 as example except the current modelers.
  20. As for gold and copper I can recommend paints shown on the pictures. I was pleased with the results.
  21. You also can secure the dowel into electrical drill chuck. Use same wooden guide arrangement as topic starter shows. Turning on the drill but not turning on a sander disk may provide much cleaner results.
  22. I agree. Also your idea is new to me and good in some circumstances. Enjoy discovering a pleasure of ship building.
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