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Mahuna

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  • Content Count

    1,540
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  • Last visited

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About Mahuna

  • Birthday March 14

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sun Lakes, AZ
  • Interests
    Cycling, Bird Carving

Recent Profile Visitors

2,705 profile views
  1. Hi Will - I've been off the site for a long time and just started checking back in. Nice progress on your Syren - looking really good.
  2. Hi Rich - I've been off the site for quite a while and just saw your build. Great work so far. I'll be following along.
  3. I agree with Grant - that's the way I use MSW. I just want to echo everyone and say a big thanks to all of the administrators who work to make this a great forum.
  4. Hi Rich I've been off the forum for a while due to moving to a new home. Glad to see you're finished your build, and it looks great. Bluejacket has a kit of the Spray. If you don't want to build from a kit, I think you could just buy the plans. http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/spray.htm
  5. Hi Patrick. I've been out of commission from a modeling standpoint for quite a while due to moving to a 'new' home, and have been off the forum for over a month. I was happy to see your recent entry on my first time back - she looks great! Well done.
  6. Hi Don - really nice work. When securing a knot, it's better to use matte medium or a diluted white glue to avoid the 'plastic' look. When I don't want any sheen from glue I use Scenic Glue from Woodland Scenics.
  7. Hi Doug - very nice work on your Leon. I've been looking in now and then, and just saw your comment on the lumber hatch. One thing you might try is to mix some sawdust from the same wood as the planking with Scenic glue and use it as a filler. Scenic glue (from Woodland Scenics) is a PVA glue that dries without any sheen, so when you use it this way the wood dust visually blends in with the wood around it and flaws are covered really well. I've used this approach with small gaps between planks and it worked for me.
  8. Nice work, Chris. Keep the updates coming - you're making great progress.
  9. YT - Please send me a PM. I don't check MSW posts too frequently, but was alerted to your request by another member.
  10. The original list of free books went fairly quickly. In continuing to get ready for downsizing I'm once again offering the following books free of charge - you just pay the postage. For the time being I'd like to ship a minimum of three books for each request, and will be using PayPal for payment of the postage. Due to time constraints I need to move these books by end of January. Any remaining books will be donated to a local charity. Please PM me if you're interested in any of the following books: Ship Design and Construction The Search for Speed
  11. We'll be downsizing to a smaller house, and there won't be enough room for many of the books I've collected since I started modeling. I'm offering the following books free of charge - you just pay the postage. For the time being I'd like to ship a minimum of three books for each request, and will be using PayPal for payment of the postage. Due to time constraints I need to move these books by end of January. Any remaining books will be donated to a local charity. Please PM me if you're interested in any of the following books: Ships, General
  12. Very nice work, Chris. You're making some real progress now.
  13. I agree with Steve - I would use two-part epoxy. The five-minute type would be my choice. A couple of points: when you clamp the piece to the hull you'll find that the wet epoxy is pretty slippery and the piece may want to slide while you're clamping it. Also, the epoxy will tend to run and ooze out of the small holes. This can be cleaned up while it's still wet by washing the unwanted epoxy off with a brush dipped in 90% isopropyl alcohol. You need to make sure you get the unwanted epoxy off before it has cured - after it's cured you'd have to grind it off. Chris
  14. Nice work, Chris. I'll be following along, and hope to see it in person sometime.
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