LMDAVE
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I always put the acetate sheets on behind the window holes before assembling, then I paint them black from behind to give them a smoke/tinted glass look. I just put the glue where the sheet overlaps the wood. I guess you could use tweezers and put them on from underneath.
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OK, since I'm focused on sails, I cut and hemmed the second sail, just need to add the reef lines, and do the 3rd one. Like I said before, I didn't like the lines at first, but not I think they are OK. So, moving forward with them
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OK, I finished the rest of the sail threads, and , I dont know...I may kind of like it now. I did a much better job on the rest of the lines, I need to repair a few bottom ones and trim some more frayed brown thread, but I might keep this. Any Opinions?
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No, I didn't install sails yet, but I did make one from the preprinted cloth that came with the kit. It was bothering me so much how it would come out. I said and shown earlier how the reef lines were preprinted dark brown dashes on the cloth. I hate that they did that! So, I started seweing over them with the same color thread, but hard for my amateur sewing on a machine to stay completely on the line, plus look at the bottom half that I started, even if it was perfect, the dark brown makes this look like Yankees pinstripe uniforms. I wish the only thing the printed was the numbers/letters J/K4, because I like that. I even went as fas as to hem the edges and paste it on the wall so I could hold the boat up to it to get a good feel for how the sail would look. Sorry, but the reef lines should be just an off white, not dark brown. So, I'm going to just get some new material and cut it and just hem it, that's how I see other models, I'll have to do without the boat number being on it. I see even the box of the kit doesn't use this. You can't zoom in on here to see the detail of why I don't like it.
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I figured the ship's wheel will get it's own post. I painted the small cast wheel wood brown with brass tips. The only bad thing about zooming in this far is seeing the cracked wood filler on the deck, not that bad from normal view. But I may patch it up.
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Thanks guys, actually there are two separate full sheets with a fullscale 1:1 drawing of the deck with the placement of all the holes and equipment and numbers for rigging. I can make measurements from edge or other know things (mast hole, etc). Moving along with the deck. There was an outer small wooden rail I probably should have installed earlier, so had to pop up a couple of cleats to get this down and start working on the out edge eyebolts and rigging blocks. I wanted special eyebolts for this with a flange , but the smallest I order was just a little too big for scale (see second pic) so I just used plain small eyebolts. I hate stropping the blocks, but got it down to making them pretty fast, it's much easy to install them with the eyebolt instead of trying to hook them in later to a closed eye.
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I haven't posted any updates in a while. Mainly just working on more deck stuff. It's getting pretty cluttered, and still have all the outer eyebolts to add. This pic mainly shows all of the wooden cleets that are scattered about the deck. I placed them as accurately as I could to the plans, and angled them as the plan shows. The cleets came as cast metal and were suggested to be painted brown to look wooden. I see some leave them as chrome, but I took the wood route. I like to try to my paint items look real like real wood, but couldn't really do much with these little suckers. So, they are just pretty much a solid flat brown.
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IF you count, at the stern, from the center to the edge, you have 7 planks, just like mine, they're the same size.
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Floyd, the boom, in my case was already a 7 mm triangle on each side, the top flat side doesn't taper, the sides and bottom do. The sides squeezed in to 3 mm, and the bottom came up to 4 mm. I drew angles lines where I wanted the taper and shaded the rest of the wood that need shave. I just used a flat file at a slight angle, and filed away. JD, the first two planks start in the middle at the double bulkhead. The butt together at that area, so there is two pieces.
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Thanks Pete! JD, I bent the hinge to be at the same angle as the taper, and glued the hinge in place, from there I drilled the holes for the nails and put them in.
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Wanted to give an update. I finished the boom and hardware, with the brass hinge...and some more more deck hardware.
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Hi Jd, thanks for stopping by. Yeah, I don't have the best tpaering skills, but one thing I do if I have a strong mast is clamp it in a drill, and get some 150 grit sanding paper and wrap it around the mast the I can go up and down the the taper going a little futher down each time but always goign back to the top, that way the top gets the most sanded and it is gradual on the way down. But some mast are taper just in the back and the front is even with the rest of the mast. I just down the same procedurebut without it spinning and ust file 3/4 of the way around from tip to where the taper starts. Yeah, the hinge at the bottom, I didn't do it the way the instructions were. Actually I made the piece out of scratch and didnt realize until later that they provide the parts. BUt, I revert back to the kit piece and made it work.
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Well, having just plans and cloth is normal, like Bluenose was. I just put transfer ink onto the cloth from the plans and sewed along the lines and washed the ink out. These brown dashed are permenant as far as I know. I'll play around with one and see if I can sew over the lines. But, otherwise I'll jsut buy some new cloth and make my own. Or just present the ship with sails stowed.
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Thanks Russ/Pete Yes, I'll have to be careful during the rigging to not install too many on one side before evening out on the other. And, there many more blocks to install. One thing this kit has, that someone else brought up in their kit, is the sails. They are cloth, but they have pre printed brown dash line on them. Now if it was just where to cut and hem them, I'd be OK, but the also have pre-printed lines where all the reef lines along the sails are. NOw I saw someone install these plain, and it looked bad. But I dont think I can sew over them. I guess all someone can do is get their own sails and not use these. The only use of the pre-printed stuff is the letters of the boat.
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OK, I abandoned the idea wooden handrail, I couldn't find a dowel that small. I moved forward with more deck items. I decided to start stropping some of the wood blocks with thin brass wire, and I attached them in the appropriate area around the mast opening. This allowed me to go ahead and install the mast that I've been working on side. The mast was assemble six separate half moon dowel and a left over piece of hull planking in the middle to create the opening slot. The mast was so flimsy still and any sanding and tapering of the mast would crack the glue where the connection points were along the length. I wish one long piece was made. And a whole bunch of eyes where installed along the mast and cross trees. It was all painted gloss white.
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Thanks Force, just read about him on Wiki. I was just thinking about my rails, the original boat looked to have brass eyes, but wooden rails going through them. I should able to get those 4 brass rods out pretty easy, and may replace them with small wooden dowels. That would look more accurate and better. Look for updates....
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Thanks for the pics, Pete, that helps. Seems my plans had the rails placed much further inward than the actual, but I'll live with that. Good stories Floyd, sounds like quite an adreniline ride! Love this picture , the captain looks so laid back like this is nothing.
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I've been jumping around since starting the deck, I actually assembled the mast, which was a pain, I wish would have given a full length dowel...but I'll show that later. I installed the low profile handrails. These are all brass. I wish I could find some good close up pics of the actual Endeavour, curious what these looked like on the actually yacht. Also I was amazed that this was the extent of hand rails, you pretty much had to be sitting down or laying holding on to these to stay on deck when she was in rough water. Just seems like this boat would have lost a lot of crew members, but I don't know much of her history.
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Well...one answer could be, that's a reason for double planking, even if you're not going to varrnish the hull. It would have stiffened it up more. But, I believe the instruction even say you can skip the double plank if painting.
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Thanks guys, and Floyd, yeah I've been moving right along with this one. I could say because it's more than half the size of yours, but its probably because Ive been into the build. I added another hatch that has the instrument gauge on it. This time put a dime in the background to show the scale of this and how small, which is a struggle with detail. OF course I had to use a paper decal, which I then coated with some flat lacquer to see if it would blend in and look real. You can always spot something like that. But I'll leave it.
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Thanks, Russ!
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Started with the deck furniture now, here's the main deck house. A used an HO scale (1:80) figure to be cute. I did have the sitting area white cloth, but it got dirty so fast I painted is brown leather.
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Thanks guys, I want to get some better pictures in better light to show the colors better. The clearcoat used was Polycrylic, a water based polyurethane, in the hopes that it wouldn't yellow the white lines, and it's held up so far. But, I probably should have let the basecoat blue cure fully before going over it, and by fully cure, I mean like 3 days to a week, I waited a day and a half, and a few of the spots cracked a little when the poly was dry, but I was able to sand it out inbetween poly coats.
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Well, here's the finished product of paint. I probably do some more polishing once the clear coat finishes curing. The upper trim line looks more wavy in the picture than in person, maybe the pixels of the picture. But I like the contrast of the gloss body and the matt finish deck. Time to start reading ahead and moving on with this fun build.
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