LMDAVE
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Everything posted by LMDAVE
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Here are the finished pics. Fun little quick build....now on to something more challenging (not sure what yet)
- 18 replies
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- 2
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- viking ship
- revell
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Thanks guys, that's one reason I jumped back to a plastic kit, was to get this real wood effect. Hope to have the finished product up soon.
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I've finished all the deck work and started the rigging. I have a feeling my next update will be the completed model. quick-build
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Added the anchor and rope details on deck. And the main mast Also laid the sail against the mast for a picture shot. I wasn't sure about using the plastic sail as I see that most don't. But, I weathered the sail up good and will probably go with it.
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Moving right along. Added the rest of the oars on board, and added the rudder(?). I also made a color change, I replaced the green strip with red that matches the shields. Some reason the off color was bothering me.
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Thanks Russ. I finished up the shields on the other side and took a shot a painting and weathering the oars. Just painted tan over the brown, scuffed it a litte and did a black wash over it. I saw another model with the oars stowed on deck which looked cool, so I'm putting these there for now, not sure if I have them in the running position when finished or not.
- 18 replies
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- 2
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- viking ship
- revell
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Installed the shields today. I have been painting them and triming them, then I blackwashed weathered them. Part of me likes it, and part is not sure if I picked the right colors with the boat trim. I do like the back sides of the wooden shields.
- 18 replies
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- 1
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- viking ship
- revell
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Thanks Russ....it'll probably be a quick build given the low amount of parts, but I'm going for detail. There is one model I can find through a google search which was done excellently, with figures and everything. The kit come with decals for the shield which most opt to not use, including me because it's way too fake looking. I'm going to just have solid covered shields. Otherwise, I can't find many pictures of this model completed.
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I weathered the planks and painted the stringers, realized I should have done the planks first because the weather wash (with black) removed the stain on the stringers, so I just added the stain back afterwards. I need to do a black wash again (with a waterbase black) to get into the cracks. of the planks. But I like the color the planks came out eventhough it was sort of an accident I also added some yellow/green viking trim to the sides. No particular reason for the colors. Lines came out well, I have a few touch up spots from bleed through.
- 18 replies
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- 1
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- viking ship
- revell
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Thanks Russ for all the advice and support through this first build, it helped a lot.
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After finishing my first wooden build, I decided to take a step backwards and build the Revell Viking Ship, since it was a gift by my wife and she would be upset if I didn't attempt it. I did already start the kit and figured, why not do a build log? One thing I did want to try with a plastic build again was to make the plastic look like real wood (I always admired other plastic models that accomplished this). I did the method of spraying a tan under coat, but instead of dry brushing and washing with browns and blacks, I applied a stain lightly over the already molded wood grain, and so far I like the results. The only negative to this approach was the amount of time it takes for the stain to fully dry and cure on the plastic undercoat (several days). I'm currently at the step of undercoating the deck, and will be applying two seperate stains to differentiate the crossbeams from the deck baords.
- 18 replies
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- 4
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- viking ship
- revell
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Hi all, sorry for anyone who was following this build, it's been a while since I updated. I was down to the forward ratlines and I put the boat in the display case when I went on vacation this past summer and yet to take it back out to finish it. The build looks great in the display but is missing the forward ratlines, I may take some pictures later. However, not sure when I'll ever finish that last step.
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This is my attempt to show the starboard side anchor and rope in it's on-deck stowed postiion. SImilar to what Thorbob did with his build, except I did a coil with the anchor rope.
- 95 replies
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- bluenose
- model shipways
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Thanks Bob, this first wooden ship build has been such a fun journey, and my attention to detail for modelling is greatly improved. One day I hope to get to the level that some of these advanced ship modelers are and the level that these guys get with railroad models. This is a video of artist Troels Kirk's ships on his coastline railroad. Just the details of all the building, docks, and boats, are so awesome to see someone get that detailed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjJk1zdN-qs
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Well, on the plans it shows the bottom block connects with a hook, which mean this line is stowed in a different position when not in use. And when I look at an old pic, I see the line stowed next to the ratline shrounds, it's connected to the eyebolt next to the main dead eyes. (see pic below, line just to the left of the word fly). And sure enough, if you go back to the plans, it points out that eyebolt as the stowed position of the flying backstay. This is a picture of the ship racing, I thought it would be used during racing, but maybe not. SO, I guess I'm going to leave things as for color, but I could move it to the stowed position. I'll probably just leave it.
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Russ, it's stated that Bluenose II was wire for standing rigging and thats why it was black, that could be the same case for Bluenose 1.
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Thanks guys, and good history lesson about the tar. I'll probably make the change sometime this weekend. I see some Bluenose models with mixed black and tan all of the place, so it could have just been the builder's preference.
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Added more of the running and standing rigging. The standing rigging really gives it that final look. Getting close... One of the lines, called the "flying" backstay, I was a little unsure of because I couldn't find many pics of it. It's a backstay but connected through rigging blocks, and had a hook. I think they would only use it in certain times (racing maybe). But, I have the line as black, up to the blocks, then the running part tan. Not quite sure if that looks right or not. I can easily change the long run to tan.
- 95 replies
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- bluenose
- model shipways
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Thanks Russ. Yeah, since HO is 1/80 the men appear short for their boat.
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Finished the main rat lines on the port side. (HO figure included for close to scale)
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Thanks Jerry. It was actually pretty quick and easy. I hit all the metal with a wire brush on a drill, and just hand sanded all the wood with coarse sandpaper, the old paint chips on it were pratically falling off. I deliberitly didn't sand out all the old wood burn mark and imperfection so it would give it a vintage look. I taped up the wood and spray all the metal with Rustoeum flat black, and all I did to the wood was two coats of clear varnish. Ih, I did touch up that metal tag in the middle with some testors gold model paint. And that was it.
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I'll get back to my boat soon, just want to show the before and after of restoring the rigging block.
- 95 replies
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- bluenose
- model shipways
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My vintage block came in today, unfortunately its about twice the size I was expecting, no way can I fit this with the ship. However, it will be displayed somewhere in my nautical room. I'm going to do a slight restoration on it. Not sure I can sand out the deep burnt spots from the fire it was in, but it'll definitely be cleaned up and neater looking but still vintage looking. HAHA, I may use this pulley to raise my heavy display case.
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Wow Jim, 1/4" is pretty serious glass for that case! I bet it was heavy. I'm using just single strength window pane glass (3/32" thick). My box I made is approx 36" wide, 32" high, 12" deep. I guess I can post a pic considering I was trying to save it for the end, but this is without the ship.
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