Sunsanvil
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Yea I though there was enough overcast light coming in the window but clearly the iPad didnt think so and knocked the shutter speed down on me. I really need to replace my stolen camera soon. Maybe a boxing week sale.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Starting to look like a boat...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Can one boil basswood like the cheery? I was thinking I could put a couple inches of water in dutch oven and boil planks that way...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Here is where we stand...
The last of the ribs are glued in place. I now need to fair the rib-less forms (1,2,&3) as well as the transom. Actually looks like I need to touch up the fairing on the ribs themselves. I know I had those forms near perfect, and I made sure every rib was bent and twisted to conform but I guess that's just the vaguery of wood for you.
I have to say, my first foray into bending did not go as well as I hoped. I was off to a good start using the soak and then shape over the curling iron method. A couple broken ones and I was on a streak of 6 good bends... then it really became hit and miss. In the end I overall broke 1 in 3. Then for the last 2 I tried boiling them for 15 minutes...and they went on like butter! Maybe that was just luck, I don't know but I now wish I tried that at the start. I'll be using that method for the tween frames for sure. I'm just super scared now I will run out of the cherry wood stock.
The real question now is, how to approach bending the planks? I don't have a pot big enough to boil them.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
Can you do a quick experiment for me: put a blob of it on something like a paint pallet or peice of tin foil. Next morning, whats it like?
Mine seems to be very "brittle". As I recall (which I grant is imperfect) other PV type glues I've used in the past all dried to a somewhat supple/resilient blob.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
Everything is pre-shaped. The shear broke away at the stern while I was bending/fitting the next plank: just pushing the next plank against it was apparently too much for it, which seems absurd.
And in any event, the temp tabs which I mentioned at the onset were flat pieces of wood glued to flat wood. When I took those off I expected the tiny strip of wood to break, not pop off cleanly.
This is turning into quite a mystery.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Starting to look like a boat...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
That takes me back. I spent many years in East Africa some time ago and recall visiting the Dhow builders in Lamu. Fascinating old-world craftsmanship!
B
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
Can you do a quick experiment for me: put a blob of it on something like a paint pallet or peice of tin foil. Next morning, whats it like?
Mine seems to be very "brittle". As I recall (which I grant is imperfect) other PV type glues I've used in the past all dried to a somewhat supple/resilient blob.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
Everything is pre-shaped. The shear broke away at the stern while I was bending/fitting the next plank: just pushing the next plank against it was apparently too much for it, which seems absurd.
And in any event, the temp tabs which I mentioned at the onset were flat pieces of wood glued to flat wood. When I took those off I expected the tiny strip of wood to break, not pop off cleanly.
This is turning into quite a mystery.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
Thanks all for your thoughts.
Well, now that you put it that way...
But seriously, those temp-tabs were put on the same way I've done everything else: apply glue, clamp, let dry. The concern which hit me this morning was that if all 8 of those popped off with such relative ease, what does that say about all the other assemblies I've done to date? I wonder if I need to take more care in terms of surface preparation or something.
B
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Poor results with carpenters glue
So far on my little build I've been using carpenter's glue, specifically this brand:
http://www.lepage.ca/en/lepage-products/pva-glue-wood-glue/carpenters-glue.html
I thought things were going well until it came time to take off the temporary keel guides/holders which were spot glued to the building frame: they popped right off with I think far too little effort! The wood itself was not damaged at all: the separation was cleanly at the glue interface. This doesn't seem right for a glue which is supposed to have tonnes (literally) of holding strength.
The only thing I can figure (and this is just a guess) is that the margin of error on the clamping force is too narrow. The fine print says to use "50 to 150 psi" and "Avoid excessive pressure,which will result in starved glue joints." How on earth am I supposed to gauge what my array of clothes, binder, and dollar store clamps are doing?!?
So, topics for conversation:
- What am I doing wrong
- What should I be using instead.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts and advice. Sadly I've already got the shear and garbords in place using this stuff and am now terrified.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
Thanks all for your thoughts.
Well, now that you put it that way...
But seriously, those temp-tabs were put on the same way I've done everything else: apply glue, clamp, let dry. The concern which hit me this morning was that if all 8 of those popped off with such relative ease, what does that say about all the other assemblies I've done to date? I wonder if I need to take more care in terms of surface preparation or something.
B
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Poor results with carpenters glue
So far on my little build I've been using carpenter's glue, specifically this brand:
http://www.lepage.ca/en/lepage-products/pva-glue-wood-glue/carpenters-glue.html
I thought things were going well until it came time to take off the temporary keel guides/holders which were spot glued to the building frame: they popped right off with I think far too little effort! The wood itself was not damaged at all: the separation was cleanly at the glue interface. This doesn't seem right for a glue which is supposed to have tonnes (literally) of holding strength.
The only thing I can figure (and this is just a guess) is that the margin of error on the clamping force is too narrow. The fine print says to use "50 to 150 psi" and "Avoid excessive pressure,which will result in starved glue joints." How on earth am I supposed to gauge what my array of clothes, binder, and dollar store clamps are doing?!?
So, topics for conversation:
- What am I doing wrong
- What should I be using instead.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts and advice. Sadly I've already got the shear and garbords in place using this stuff and am now terrified.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Bending with heat only
That takes me back. I spent many years in East Africa some time ago and recall visiting the Dhow builders in Lamu. Fascinating old-world craftsmanship!
B
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Bending with heat only
That takes me back. I spent many years in East Africa some time ago and recall visiting the Dhow builders in Lamu. Fascinating old-world craftsmanship!
B
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in What to use for Minwax cleanup?
Soap and water? Seriously? I would have never thought that an oil based product could be cleaned up with just that.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in What to use for Minwax cleanup?
Soap and water? Seriously? I would have never thought that an oil based product could be cleaned up with just that.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Mirabell61 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Here is where we stand...
The last of the ribs are glued in place. I now need to fair the rib-less forms (1,2,&3) as well as the transom. Actually looks like I need to touch up the fairing on the ribs themselves. I know I had those forms near perfect, and I made sure every rib was bent and twisted to conform but I guess that's just the vaguery of wood for you.
I have to say, my first foray into bending did not go as well as I hoped. I was off to a good start using the soak and then shape over the curling iron method. A couple broken ones and I was on a streak of 6 good bends... then it really became hit and miss. In the end I overall broke 1 in 3. Then for the last 2 I tried boiling them for 15 minutes...and they went on like butter! Maybe that was just luck, I don't know but I now wish I tried that at the start. I'll be using that method for the tween frames for sure. I'm just super scared now I will run out of the cherry wood stock.
The real question now is, how to approach bending the planks? I don't have a pot big enough to boil them.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in What to use for Minwax cleanup?
I'm not crazy about solvents but I don't think the water-cleanup wood stains are going to provide the finish I want. What would I need to cleanup brushes and whatnot when using Minwax stains (the yellow can ones)? Hopefully something which doesn't only come in a giant 2l bottle.
Everything on my extensive (plastic) modeling rack is acrylic/water base. I think I have every product that Vallejo has ever made.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from donfarr in What to use for Minwax cleanup?
I'm not crazy about solvents but I don't think the water-cleanup wood stains are going to provide the finish I want. What would I need to cleanup brushes and whatnot when using Minwax stains (the yellow can ones)? Hopefully something which doesn't only come in a giant 2l bottle.
Everything on my extensive (plastic) modeling rack is acrylic/water base. I think I have every product that Vallejo has ever made.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in What to use for Minwax cleanup?
I'm not crazy about solvents but I don't think the water-cleanup wood stains are going to provide the finish I want. What would I need to cleanup brushes and whatnot when using Minwax stains (the yellow can ones)? Hopefully something which doesn't only come in a giant 2l bottle.
Everything on my extensive (plastic) modeling rack is acrylic/water base. I think I have every product that Vallejo has ever made.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mattsayers148 in HMS Bounty by thomaslambo - Artesania Latina – Scale 1:48
Was looking for a build of this kit to inspire me.
Wow.... Just.... Wow.
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Sunsanvil reacted to mattsayers148 in Bounty launch by Cathead - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:16 - small
Hey Cathead,
Great start for a fun build!
I was able to overcome the shrinking, moving nightmare by using thin CA. I'm no pro and I love my gorilla glue, but the CA solved the problem for me, you just have to be really careful. When I looked at a lot of other build before I started this one, there seemed to be issues with gaps at the last plank. Knowing this I beveled every plank for a tighter fit. Then I put in a 3/16 piece(straight then bent) and scribed in the last plank to it. I stained without sanding, and like Pops said, it leaves a bleached, aged look, but that's what I was after.
For the tween frames I reused the jig like I was makeing another boat. That way I avoided the bending frames inside, and they fit real well, as long as you don't mix them up.
You're doing great and I'll enjoy watching your build. Good luck!
Matt
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks much for that Keith.
I did a couple more, broke both, decided it was a combination of going too fast and possibly bending in the wrong orientation. I looked carefully at the stock and its seems fairly clear that the ribs are rip-cut from a board (two sides are smooth, the other two rough). Putting the smooth side to the outside and inside (the rough sides fore and aft), I did 6 more successfully.
I also experimented with my first (test) rib by dipping it in water and working it on the (hair) curling iron to see if subsequent bending or twisting is possible and indeed it is. That will surely come in handy as I get away from amidship and on to the ribs which need convoluted twisting to properly follow the fairing.
It really is a revelation to learn just how pliable a material like wood can be.
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