Tecko
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Thank you @mtaylor, @Canute, @popeye the sailor, @cog, @lmagna, and @Submarinerblue for your reactions. Much appreciated. ___________________________________________- 41 replies
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- 11
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Thank you for great idea. Have visited their website, and others, and downloaded all the photos. Never thought about asking for a copy of the plans and diagrams. Yesterday I found a large plan, but it is not exactly clear, and I have been deciphering what German labeling I can read.
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Had a lot of trouble finding anything on the flak guns. From what I can gather is shown below. The gunner is enclosed in a column or pillar. There is no window or slot in the turret for sighting the target, so the turret hatch has to be opened to sight the target. This model of the turret does not lend itself to making an open hatch without botching-up the turret. So I have decided to leave the hatch alone, However, there are gaps around the guns which would allow any light within the pillars to shine out. Most probably there is no light within the pillar, but to add a bit of drama I decided to add one. I read somewhere that earlier night vision lights used a blue-green light (before the red light was introduced). So I opted to use a blue for something different. There is a problem with introducing a LED within the sail. It lights up everything, and light escapes through all cracks etc. Decided to eliminate this diffusion by directly attaching the LED to the plastic, and painting the glued LED black. This helped my to isolate where I wanted the light to shine. The below photos shows the light quite brightly. I will dim this down by introducing a resistor for each LED at the power source.
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I will make a diorama, but only within the boat itself, and perhaps on the bridge too. I feel better doing it that way than to have a cutaway submarine in dry dock (let alone submerged).
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Have been doing lots of research in terms of images (photos and drawings). As a result, several ideas have come to mind in terms of how I am going to present this model. I was hoping to include a diorama encompassing the boat, but its cutaway interior view does not really lend itself to the outside world. It is more than likely to simply become a cutaway model with the possibility of some diorama happening within the boat.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful. I could look at the artworks on the stern for a long time. I cannot help myself from thinking, "Wow! I hope she never sinks."- 1,035 replies
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- 6
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Got stuck into the conning tower. The side walls are blank, which I think it could be touch up a bit. The real submarine is so intricate, or should I saw compact, that it is near impossible for a 1/144 scale model to show all the details. However, the model does have blank areas which invites, or dares, the modeller to add what is not shown. I would like to experiment with this idea. So far: The Revell instruction pamphlet does not describe/name the sections of the submarine. Having lots of trouble finding a readable plan of this ship. Internet search does not show any simple plan which points out what compartment is what. Finally figured out the main compartments except the control room section. Above it is the conning tower, but do not know what the other below sections are: RB, R, and U.
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First plastic model from a kit. Hoping it will be easy, after all it comes with all already made parts and even has an instruction manual. Not expecting to do much modelling (a welcomed break), just assembling. Bought the kit from a second hand shop. Discovered later that a few tiny minor parts are missing. 90% of the parts are still in there template frame. Overall size is 53 cm (about 21"). Not sure if I will mount it on its stand. May include a small diorama afterwards. Done Internet research on the U-2540. Most interior view models were, for some reason, less impressive than what was illustrated on the kit box. I suppose the small scale of the details would be the main challenge here. Thank goodness the kit has some instrumentation decals. Exterior view will NOT include weathering. Though I am very impressed by those who can recreate weathering with such realism, though at times overdone, I have an aversion to it. I like warm and sunny as opposed to cold and dull appearances for models. So this model will look somewhat brand new, just off the slipway. Have no Revell paints, so I cross-referenced to the Humbrol paints that were available to me from the local maritime museum. Be the way, this model will be for the museum (if it turns out okay and they accept it). Some colours were missing, so I mixed up a few to suit.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful work Doris. I cannot imagine your model better than it is, even though you may know ever little microscopic error. If you got it right the first time, every time, you would quickly lose interest because you would not see any challenges for you. It is the mistakes which brings our challenges to full awareness. It is our drive to conquer them, and when we do, we feel satisfied for our own hard earned improvements. With this in mind, there are no senseless mistakes, but a gift in the disguise of a challenge. Best to embrace a mistake for the new lessons you are about to undertake. In this way, we can actually be grateful for our mistakes.- 1,035 replies
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- 9
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Sorry NRG modelers for my delay in providing an update. Have been feeling a bit down lately. Muz, a close friend, is dying from cancer. He has fought this for ten years now. But recent developments have quickly deteriorated his health. I know we all have known someone who has died from cancer. Lost my best friend to it in 2001. Past experiences does not make me immune to grief and loss. Recently, Muz paid a visit and suggested I ought to add life-jackets to the guys in the small fishing boat (mandatory for boats under 5 m). So I painted on the modern inflatable jackets on the guys. Also added line to the fishing rods. A long while ago Muz, and my other friends who race road bikes, suggested I ought to add cyclists to the diorama. I have hesitated in doing so because I could not find any 1/72 road cyclists to buy, and the idea of building a bike was daunting. However, due to Muz's condition, I was inspired to give it a go. Decided to have Muz as the cyclist, waiting at the traffic lights and waving good-bye. So I asked Muz to send me a photo of him and his bike. After making the wheels, and attaching the front forks, I felt confident to carry on. Altered a plastic figure to suit the requirements, and then added paint. My hand is no longer steady. It was a miracle to write MUZ on the jersey.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Hello Doris. Have not heard from you for a while now. Hope you and significant others are well and happy. Looking forward to your return.- 1,035 replies
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- 4
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Great idea, will keep that in mind when I feel up to applying the mache. Not feeling well lately. But will soon get back into it.
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Thank you @Jack12477, @BANYAN, @mtaylor, @Omega1234, @BenF89, @lmagna, and @paulsutcliffe for your reactions, great sense of humour, and information. Glad you got a laugh as I did in making it. _________________________________ Experimented on creating a water surfaces from tissue/toilet paper mache. My concerns were applying the mache around the fender piers, bridge footings, ramps, and now the 'too small' fishing boat. Also played with the idea of a wake, and small ripply waves along the shore, and even a rolling ripple-wave as seen from a boat's wake reaching the shore. Learnt that applying the mache again, after the first application has dried, is not a good idea. It's too hard to blend the wet into the hard. This means that I will need to apply the mache in one session. That's going to be a challenge to cover nearly two square yards/metres with textured water surface. It will require lots of PVA-water mixture (a few litres) and toiled roles, because the minimal number of tissue layers is four, for a good texture.
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Thank you @BANYAN, @lmagna, @oneslim, @BenF89, @Omega1234, @mtaylor, and @paulsutcliffe for your responses. ____________________________________ Played around with some DAS modelling clay. Soon discovered its shortcomings. Had to make separate small parts, then attach later on. Before attachment, I immersed the parts into a PVA-water mix to seal the parts. Used enamel paints to paint the small model. There are no swimmers in Richmond River. There are too many Bull Sharks around. Added two altered figurines to the scene.
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Thank you @Bob Legge, @oneslim, @mtaylor, @BenF89, @BANYAN, @Omega1234, @lmagna, @prutser, @KeithAug, and @Siggi52 for your 'likes'. Thank you @BenF89 for your kind words. ____________________________________ Been exhausted lately and spent a lot of time sleeping like a dog (16 hours / day). I had a somewhat unresolved plan for the side walls of the diorama. A good friend suggested a neutral grey would simply solve the problem. So I used the leftover grey I used for painting the bridge. This creates a neutral zone. Last night, and today, I was toying with the idea of another small craft on the river, near the car-park ramp. Was not sure how to go about making a metal dinghy. So it was an ad hoc construction. Used scrap Masonite, dowels, paddle-pop stick, and a paper clip.
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Thank you @mtaylor, @paulsutcliffe, @Jack12477, @BANYAN, @Siggi52, @druxey, @Omega1234, @lmagna, @*Hans*, and @KeithAug for your responses. Greatly appreciated. _____________________________________ Painted the cork pieces. Added silt stain from previous floods and tidal line.
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Thanks for complement. Just to let you know, this whole project/diorama is my first model. So, no I have not done this before. Have spent a fair amount of time on the Internet to find out what to do, such as the wood debris, grass, and cork rocks. Also, I do a lot of experiments and tests. When I feel confident, then I go and do it.
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Thank you @prutser, @BenF89, @oneslim, @paulsutcliffe, @BANYAN, @lmagna, @Omega1234, and @Jack12477 for your reactions. ______________________________________ Added glue to a dish, then dipped the cork rock into the glue with tweezers, and placed each rock in its place.
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Thank you @BANYAN, @mtaylor, @Omega1234, @druxey, @paulsutcliffe, @BenF89, and @oneslim for your responses. ______________________________________________________________ Added the fender piers. And spent a day cutting up cork pieces (previously made from hand-sanding blocks). They needed to be much smaller in size and have at least one flat surface showing, like a fracture line. Made a few samples of cork rock beds for painting tests. The last sample looks the best for showing the silt stains from previous floods and tidal lines.
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Thank you @BenF89, @BANYAN, @paulsutcliffe, @mtaylor, @druxey, @Omega1234, @lmagna, and @oneslim for your reactions. _______________________________________________________________
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Thank you @oneslim, @Siggi52, @lmagna, @Jack12477, @Omega1234, @paulsutcliffe, @mtaylor, and @BANYAN for you responses. Much appreciated. _________________________________________ It is getting close to creating the river. However, everything in and around it needs to be completed. This includes the Buoy Tender. So I went back to the Buoy Tender. It needs to be completed so it can have the crane and new buoy on deck. Besides making deck furniture (so-to-speak) the boat needs to be painted. In between coats of paint I got busy building a small boat for transporting crew to shore. Chose to make a rubber dinghy, with outboard motor. Used off-cuts of wooden dowel, MDF board, matchsticks, paddle-pop stick, paper clip, and Masonite.
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