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Tecko
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Everything posted by Tecko
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Thank you @cog, @DORIS, and @BenF89 for your 'likes'. I appreciate it. ______________________________________________________________ Filed the snipped ends off the bed railings. Painted the bed linen and their aluminium frames. Also added more paint to the wardroom wall. The Captain's chair is sunk into the floor, so I decided to cut it off and raise it (1 mm). You can see the slight illusion I made with the furniture. Painted the carpet along all the furniture sides, then painted the wooden tops and legs. It gives the solid tables and stools some empty space.- 41 replies
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Thank you @DORIS, @Canute, @cog, and @BenF89 for your "likes". _________________________________________________________ The wardroom presents some challenging modelling concepts in terms of architecture. This room has a doorway into the centre hallway. The model does not have a hallway or anything else passed the door. After all, what is there to see? Well that is the challenge. The doorway invites a person to question "what is behind the door?" A great opportunity to try and create a sort of 'peepshow'. Much of the port wall bunkers / beds will get in the way of looking passed the door. But I believe there will be a few lines of sight that allows one to see through the door. I am trying to create a view into the starboard Wardrooms on the other side of the hallway. Another altered creation is to add railings (which they had) to the thirty beds. Painted the floor with matt blue colours in the hope of creating a retro art-deco carpet. I am sure Hitler would have disapproved of the degenerate design . Creating artificial hallways. The holes in the box is for a white, and a red (or other colour) LEDs. Below: the bottom images show starboard areas of sight - the peepshow stage area.
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Thank you @mtaylor, @Canute, @cog, @BenF89, @DORIS, @paulsutcliffe, @RGL, and @FatFingers for your 'likes' and responses. ______________________________________________________________________________________ The aft bulkhead from the torpedo room has embossed instrumentation that does not look anything like the real U-2540 submarine. It's the old BS Baffles Brains (BBB) approach. But it does not baffle me, only disappoints. Besides rebuilding the bulkheads, I decided to use what there is and create my own version of BBB. Added a hatch door, but closed it. This will give a little more space in that room. Also added a plastic shelf for the spare war heads, and refined the spare torpedo racks.
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The U 2540 museum has taken out the racks and turned the space into an information area. You can still see where the floor plates were/are.
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Thank you Canute for sharing that information. It's a bit late now to add that ring on the torpedoes. There is only one red torpedo visibly (top rack) where I will try to apply a stripe (all the others would then be hidden by the racks )
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Thank you @Jim Rogers and @mtaylor for your recent reactions. _____________________________________________________ Was given an image of a larger view of the XXI plans. Discovered that something is stored under the torpedo room floor. The kit's cutaway section shows a partial view. Naturally the cutaway could be enlarged. Well that just invited me to add some spares to the model. Made a spare torpedo from the kit template frame. Quickly figured out what parts of the wall is visible after the torpedoes and tubes are installed. Used single strand wire to add extra electrical conduit within these visible areas. The spare torpedo is installed under the floor. Bottom photo show the extra conduit seen under the torpedoes.
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@Jim Rogers, thank you for sharing that information. I've been told that the US torpedoes, during WW2, were basically raw metal. I am not a torpedomen's mate, nor been in the navy, so I cannot say anything from experience. I only go by what I see on the Internet. Perhaps I've been influenced by playing too many submarine simulation games like Silent Hunter. However, the Revell kit suggests Carmen red war heads. Other navies have suggested other colours too. In my model, I am basically using 'artist's privilege' in this matter.
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I do not have the full range of gloss, satin and matt colours. But what I have painted includes some gloss and others are matt. Those that are matt, and I wish them to be gloss, I have paint clear gloss over them.
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I did not use the standard Humbrol gloss enamel, but an ultra gloss clear timber varnish. It gives it that glass look.
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Thank you @lmagna, @yvesvidal, @cog, @RGL, @Canute, and @paulsutcliffe for your supportive reactions. ___________________________________________________________________ Decided to give the torpedoes a coat of gloss. I think they look a lot better. Besides, I am sure they used to give the torpedoes a coat of oil/grease for easier release from the torpedo tubes. Worked on painting the torpedo compartment wall. Surprisingly the kit instructions show not decals for this wall. Perhaps they realized that the torpedoes would obscure the wall. But this model has the wall showing. So now I have to paint what I can, and made a rough plan of colours to use on the plastic protrusions. Thought of a way to make the larger dials more realistic. The idea is to paint the dial surface a matt white so pencil marks would be easier to apply. Then paint the white dial with a few coats of clear gloss to imitate glass. I think it worked out well. Really enjoyed painting these small bits. My confidence in doing so increased as I progressed. My hand stayed more relaxed and steadier. In that relaxed state I became more aware of what was needed to be done. I feel that my skills will improve as I proceed along on this build.
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Thank you @hof00, @lmagna, @Canute, and @cog for your reactions. ____________________________________________________________ Last night, and today, I spent time painting torpedoes. I noticed that some colours did not like the smooth plastic, for the paint spread out ultra-thin. Several coats needed to be applied. Next time I will lightly sand the plastic so more pigment gets trapped and held to the surface. The torpedoes come in four sets of three (fused together). Nearly every modeller of this kit elected to follow the instructions to the letter. I noticed by doing so, the rear starboard wall and its instrumentation gets blocked by the upper rack of torpedoes (the bottom rack, of three, is not used). The racks can handle 16 torpedoes, the kit has 12. Decided to cut one torpedo from the set of three, which leaves two torpedoes for the bottom rack. As a result, I am using the bottom and centre racks, leaving the top one free. This empty space now provides a clearer view of the starboard wall. The two spare torpedoes will be used in a simulation of being fired and just leaving the torpedo tubes. Used a single insulated wire to imitate a shaft and lever for each torpedo tube. This will indicate the mechanical firing lever. Actually, the wire can be turned by the lever. This could actually be used as a contact switch for triggering sound effects of a torpedo being fired . I won't be using that idea on this model, for it will be sealed in a display box.
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Thank you @mtaylor, @Canute, @popeye the sailor, @cog, @lmagna, and @Submarinerblue for your reactions. Much appreciated. ___________________________________________
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Thank you for great idea. Have visited their website, and others, and downloaded all the photos. Never thought about asking for a copy of the plans and diagrams. Yesterday I found a large plan, but it is not exactly clear, and I have been deciphering what German labeling I can read.
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Had a lot of trouble finding anything on the flak guns. From what I can gather is shown below. The gunner is enclosed in a column or pillar. There is no window or slot in the turret for sighting the target, so the turret hatch has to be opened to sight the target. This model of the turret does not lend itself to making an open hatch without botching-up the turret. So I have decided to leave the hatch alone, However, there are gaps around the guns which would allow any light within the pillars to shine out. Most probably there is no light within the pillar, but to add a bit of drama I decided to add one. I read somewhere that earlier night vision lights used a blue-green light (before the red light was introduced). So I opted to use a blue for something different. There is a problem with introducing a LED within the sail. It lights up everything, and light escapes through all cracks etc. Decided to eliminate this diffusion by directly attaching the LED to the plastic, and painting the glued LED black. This helped my to isolate where I wanted the light to shine. The below photos shows the light quite brightly. I will dim this down by introducing a resistor for each LED at the power source.
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I will make a diorama, but only within the boat itself, and perhaps on the bridge too. I feel better doing it that way than to have a cutaway submarine in dry dock (let alone submerged).
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Have been doing lots of research in terms of images (photos and drawings). As a result, several ideas have come to mind in terms of how I am going to present this model. I was hoping to include a diorama encompassing the boat, but its cutaway interior view does not really lend itself to the outside world. It is more than likely to simply become a cutaway model with the possibility of some diorama happening within the boat.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful. I could look at the artworks on the stern for a long time. I cannot help myself from thinking, "Wow! I hope she never sinks."- 1,035 replies
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Got stuck into the conning tower. The side walls are blank, which I think it could be touch up a bit. The real submarine is so intricate, or should I saw compact, that it is near impossible for a 1/144 scale model to show all the details. However, the model does have blank areas which invites, or dares, the modeller to add what is not shown. I would like to experiment with this idea. So far: The Revell instruction pamphlet does not describe/name the sections of the submarine. Having lots of trouble finding a readable plan of this ship. Internet search does not show any simple plan which points out what compartment is what. Finally figured out the main compartments except the control room section. Above it is the conning tower, but do not know what the other below sections are: RB, R, and U.
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First plastic model from a kit. Hoping it will be easy, after all it comes with all already made parts and even has an instruction manual. Not expecting to do much modelling (a welcomed break), just assembling. Bought the kit from a second hand shop. Discovered later that a few tiny minor parts are missing. 90% of the parts are still in there template frame. Overall size is 53 cm (about 21"). Not sure if I will mount it on its stand. May include a small diorama afterwards. Done Internet research on the U-2540. Most interior view models were, for some reason, less impressive than what was illustrated on the kit box. I suppose the small scale of the details would be the main challenge here. Thank goodness the kit has some instrumentation decals. Exterior view will NOT include weathering. Though I am very impressed by those who can recreate weathering with such realism, though at times overdone, I have an aversion to it. I like warm and sunny as opposed to cold and dull appearances for models. So this model will look somewhat brand new, just off the slipway. Have no Revell paints, so I cross-referenced to the Humbrol paints that were available to me from the local maritime museum. Be the way, this model will be for the museum (if it turns out okay and they accept it). Some colours were missing, so I mixed up a few to suit.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Beautiful work Doris. I cannot imagine your model better than it is, even though you may know ever little microscopic error. If you got it right the first time, every time, you would quickly lose interest because you would not see any challenges for you. It is the mistakes which brings our challenges to full awareness. It is our drive to conquer them, and when we do, we feel satisfied for our own hard earned improvements. With this in mind, there are no senseless mistakes, but a gift in the disguise of a challenge. Best to embrace a mistake for the new lessons you are about to undertake. In this way, we can actually be grateful for our mistakes.- 1,035 replies
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Sorry NRG modelers for my delay in providing an update. Have been feeling a bit down lately. Muz, a close friend, is dying from cancer. He has fought this for ten years now. But recent developments have quickly deteriorated his health. I know we all have known someone who has died from cancer. Lost my best friend to it in 2001. Past experiences does not make me immune to grief and loss. Recently, Muz paid a visit and suggested I ought to add life-jackets to the guys in the small fishing boat (mandatory for boats under 5 m). So I painted on the modern inflatable jackets on the guys. Also added line to the fishing rods. A long while ago Muz, and my other friends who race road bikes, suggested I ought to add cyclists to the diorama. I have hesitated in doing so because I could not find any 1/72 road cyclists to buy, and the idea of building a bike was daunting. However, due to Muz's condition, I was inspired to give it a go. Decided to have Muz as the cyclist, waiting at the traffic lights and waving good-bye. So I asked Muz to send me a photo of him and his bike. After making the wheels, and attaching the front forks, I felt confident to carry on. Altered a plastic figure to suit the requirements, and then added paint. My hand is no longer steady. It was a miracle to write MUZ on the jersey.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Hello Doris. Have not heard from you for a while now. Hope you and significant others are well and happy. Looking forward to your return.- 1,035 replies
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