Tecko
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DIY Workbench Mini Vac Cleaner with Trap
Tecko replied to Tecko's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you all for your responses. Glad that it is of interest to other modellers. Please note that my drawing leaves out a length of hose from under the trap lid to about an inch from the bottom. It can be seen in the photographs. The hose was placed in to ensure deposits would be left on the bottom. If you like, you could add a small fly-screen filter over the intake tube of trap (vacuum cleaner end). -
HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
@DORIS, as much as some ships were made for the guns, as opposed to making guns for the ship. I think you make ships just so you can do the sculpturing. As you already know, you do beautiful work. I can tell, because when I type this response I cannot help but to type slowly and purposely out of respect for your lovely sculpturing.- 1,035 replies
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Got sick and tired of removing all tools etc just to access the sawdust, shavings, etc for cleaning. When I was in the RAAF, we (Avionics Technicians) had a vacuum inlet on the workbench. A small diameter hose was attached for sucking up small foreign matter. We made our own traps at the inlet. These would stop anything we accidentally sucked up, like a small screw. Today, I made myself such a device. It attached to my vacuum cleaner. Tested it on kitchen breadboard. The bread crumbs are collected in the jar. PS: the smaller hose is really for small dust particles, especially for hard to get into places.
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
@Hubac's Historian, please do not think I am answering for DORIS, but your question got me thinking. I have often asked myself that same question, since I always look for an easier solution. However, when it comes to artistry I prefer to not take shortcuts for I know that practice makes perfect.- 1,035 replies
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Tecko replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
SUPERBE!- 1,035 replies
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Thanks for sharing. Great build log. Enjoyed it very much.
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Thank you @BenF89 for your comment. It has inspired me to try and create more movement with the other figurines. Thank you @Canute, @cog, @John Allen, @BenF89, and @CDW for your 'likes'. ____________________________ Well, I finished the cross-section. I learnt that it is better to use a 3D cross-section on a 3D model than using a 2D illustration. Next time I will do it differently. It was not easy to paint. If I held the brush in a precarious position to draw the line I would start to shake. Another lesson learnt is that I am more steady painting lines horizontally than vertically (turning the job to suit). Next time I'll do better. Looks like chlorine gas is lethal.
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Thank you @popeye the sailor for your supportive comment. Much appreciated. Thank you @popeye the sailor, @mtaylor, @BenF89, @cog, and @Canute for the 'likes'. ____________________ Today I focused on the bulkhead between the wardroom and the Control room. decided to have the Captain entering into the Control room through the bulkhead doorway. Had to manipulate two figurines to get the right body position. Used some decals but still, if not more so, prefer using the brush. My hand is getting steadier while working on this model.
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Thank you @RGL, for your comment; and thank you @Canute, @BenF89, @mtaylor, @cog, @hexnut, and @lmagna for your 'likes. _______________________________________________ I wish to create a mini-diorama in the battery compartment. A dramatic scene could be based on a dangerous situation is of a compromised battery: where leaking sulphuric acid reacts with salt water to release chlorine gas. This gas has a distinct yellow-green colour to it. The diorama is about a crewman investigating battery damage. Glued and soldered two LEDs together which share a common cathode lead (earth). Had to file some of the plastic away first. Then soldered leads to the them. Installed the LEDs to the top battery bank. They are hidden, and hoping the two colour lighs will meld together. If not, I may have to use a medium that will aid in the blending. Anyway, much of the projected outcome won't be known until everything is in place. Fine-tuning will be inevitable for such a cramped dark space as the battery compartment. While playing around with the battery banks I realised that there is a wall missing. It is part of the battery bay. Added more styrene. To help increase light onto the subject, the back wall (hull) and ceiling got a coat of white gloss paint. Will add another coat tomorrow. Altered one of the figurines to look as it he is creeping along the low central gangway, while holding a torch. Optic fibre is used for the torch. Eventually the LED and fibre will be blacked out, only having the light coming out of the torch end. Drilling into the LED to have the fibre inserted, and wrapping in foil really intensified the light through the fibre. It should look okay in situ.
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Thank you @mtaylor, @Canute, @cog, and @BenF89 for your 'likes'. __________________________________________________________ The little figurines are so small (for me) that even with magnifying glasses I do not see the glaring mishaps that the digital camera can pick up. It is from seeing the photos that I go back and somehow patch up what is missed. Bottom centre photo shows a figurine, lean against the two bunker ends, glued in situ. In this way, the figurine stabilizes the overhanging bunkers and aligns the bunker nipples into the bulkhead when I later assemble the sections.
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Still waiting for the plastic putty, but something else arrived. N-scale plastic figurines. They are 1/150, just 0.02" (0.5 mm) smaller than 1/144. They sure are small. Had to trim off a fair bit of excess molding, and some had really baggy clothes and shirts. It takes me a few minutes per figurine to get them to look more human, and ready for repainting. Will add them along with the build from now on.
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Thank you @hexnut, @Mirabell61, @BenF89, @BANYAN, @Altduck, and @Canute for your 'likes'. ______________________________ Not happy with the way the battery banks, below the wardrooms, are shown...well, they are not shown. This Revell kit has done similar with hiding the stb wall by placing torpedoes on the top rack. Here, the battery banks a nicely shown, but to no avail if one restrict themselves to only following the instructions (they should be called guidelines). For showing the batteries, the only way around this is to either dispense with the wardroom floor, or create a cutaway cross-section of the top battery bank. Decided to explore the cross-section idea. Ordered plastic filler when I started this model. I need it now to smooth out the cross-section, but I am still waiting for its arrival. May still need to cut away some of the wardroom floor to shed more light on the cross-section. All the cutaway edges will be painted red.
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Thank you @DORIS and @lmagna for your 'likes'. ___________________________________________ I was getting a bit tired and lazy with the wardroom and ended up using some decals. Soon reminded myself why I prefer to not use them. However, they do come in handy with the really small details. The kit showed an instrument panel decal for the captain's table. I thought that was odd, so I ended up putting it into use as a piece of electronics equipment for the sound (Hydrophone) room. Also included a table top and stool for that room. The decals for the Captain's room (bulkhead) looks out of place, and I wish I never used them. I am building the model in sections, just like they did with the real sub. I fit loosely together the parts of a section which has an effect on how it fits with neighbouring sections or bulkheads. Holding it all together level and straight, I then tack the parts together with tiny bits of super glue. When secured, I simply pull the whole section off the previous section's bulkhead. Each section only has one bulkhead (forward). I am hoping to avoid a long one piece interior which the hull has trouble fitting over. In this way, each section can be giggled into place, with the hull, before tacking them all together. Painted the viewable stb wall onto the hull.
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Thank you @cog, @DORIS, and @BenF89 for your 'likes'. I appreciate it. ______________________________________________________________ Filed the snipped ends off the bed railings. Painted the bed linen and their aluminium frames. Also added more paint to the wardroom wall. The Captain's chair is sunk into the floor, so I decided to cut it off and raise it (1 mm). You can see the slight illusion I made with the furniture. Painted the carpet along all the furniture sides, then painted the wooden tops and legs. It gives the solid tables and stools some empty space.
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Thank you @DORIS, @Canute, @cog, and @BenF89 for your "likes". _________________________________________________________ The wardroom presents some challenging modelling concepts in terms of architecture. This room has a doorway into the centre hallway. The model does not have a hallway or anything else passed the door. After all, what is there to see? Well that is the challenge. The doorway invites a person to question "what is behind the door?" A great opportunity to try and create a sort of 'peepshow'. Much of the port wall bunkers / beds will get in the way of looking passed the door. But I believe there will be a few lines of sight that allows one to see through the door. I am trying to create a view into the starboard Wardrooms on the other side of the hallway. Another altered creation is to add railings (which they had) to the thirty beds. Painted the floor with matt blue colours in the hope of creating a retro art-deco carpet. I am sure Hitler would have disapproved of the degenerate design . Creating artificial hallways. The holes in the box is for a white, and a red (or other colour) LEDs. Below: the bottom images show starboard areas of sight - the peepshow stage area.
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Thank you @mtaylor, @Canute, @cog, @BenF89, @DORIS, @paulsutcliffe, @RGL, and @FatFingers for your 'likes' and responses. ______________________________________________________________________________________ The aft bulkhead from the torpedo room has embossed instrumentation that does not look anything like the real U-2540 submarine. It's the old BS Baffles Brains (BBB) approach. But it does not baffle me, only disappoints. Besides rebuilding the bulkheads, I decided to use what there is and create my own version of BBB. Added a hatch door, but closed it. This will give a little more space in that room. Also added a plastic shelf for the spare war heads, and refined the spare torpedo racks.
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The U 2540 museum has taken out the racks and turned the space into an information area. You can still see where the floor plates were/are.
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Thank you Canute for sharing that information. It's a bit late now to add that ring on the torpedoes. There is only one red torpedo visibly (top rack) where I will try to apply a stripe (all the others would then be hidden by the racks )
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Thank you @Jim Rogers and @mtaylor for your recent reactions. _____________________________________________________ Was given an image of a larger view of the XXI plans. Discovered that something is stored under the torpedo room floor. The kit's cutaway section shows a partial view. Naturally the cutaway could be enlarged. Well that just invited me to add some spares to the model. Made a spare torpedo from the kit template frame. Quickly figured out what parts of the wall is visible after the torpedoes and tubes are installed. Used single strand wire to add extra electrical conduit within these visible areas. The spare torpedo is installed under the floor. Bottom photo show the extra conduit seen under the torpedoes.
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@Jim Rogers, thank you for sharing that information. I've been told that the US torpedoes, during WW2, were basically raw metal. I am not a torpedomen's mate, nor been in the navy, so I cannot say anything from experience. I only go by what I see on the Internet. Perhaps I've been influenced by playing too many submarine simulation games like Silent Hunter. However, the Revell kit suggests Carmen red war heads. Other navies have suggested other colours too. In my model, I am basically using 'artist's privilege' in this matter.
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I do not have the full range of gloss, satin and matt colours. But what I have painted includes some gloss and others are matt. Those that are matt, and I wish them to be gloss, I have paint clear gloss over them.
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I did not use the standard Humbrol gloss enamel, but an ultra gloss clear timber varnish. It gives it that glass look.
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Thank you @lmagna, @yvesvidal, @cog, @RGL, @Canute, and @paulsutcliffe for your supportive reactions. ___________________________________________________________________ Decided to give the torpedoes a coat of gloss. I think they look a lot better. Besides, I am sure they used to give the torpedoes a coat of oil/grease for easier release from the torpedo tubes. Worked on painting the torpedo compartment wall. Surprisingly the kit instructions show not decals for this wall. Perhaps they realized that the torpedoes would obscure the wall. But this model has the wall showing. So now I have to paint what I can, and made a rough plan of colours to use on the plastic protrusions. Thought of a way to make the larger dials more realistic. The idea is to paint the dial surface a matt white so pencil marks would be easier to apply. Then paint the white dial with a few coats of clear gloss to imitate glass. I think it worked out well. Really enjoyed painting these small bits. My confidence in doing so increased as I progressed. My hand stayed more relaxed and steadier. In that relaxed state I became more aware of what was needed to be done. I feel that my skills will improve as I proceed along on this build.
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Thank you @hof00, @lmagna, @Canute, and @cog for your reactions. ____________________________________________________________ Last night, and today, I spent time painting torpedoes. I noticed that some colours did not like the smooth plastic, for the paint spread out ultra-thin. Several coats needed to be applied. Next time I will lightly sand the plastic so more pigment gets trapped and held to the surface. The torpedoes come in four sets of three (fused together). Nearly every modeller of this kit elected to follow the instructions to the letter. I noticed by doing so, the rear starboard wall and its instrumentation gets blocked by the upper rack of torpedoes (the bottom rack, of three, is not used). The racks can handle 16 torpedoes, the kit has 12. Decided to cut one torpedo from the set of three, which leaves two torpedoes for the bottom rack. As a result, I am using the bottom and centre racks, leaving the top one free. This empty space now provides a clearer view of the starboard wall. The two spare torpedoes will be used in a simulation of being fired and just leaving the torpedo tubes. Used a single insulated wire to imitate a shaft and lever for each torpedo tube. This will indicate the mechanical firing lever. Actually, the wire can be turned by the lever. This could actually be used as a contact switch for triggering sound effects of a torpedo being fired . I won't be using that idea on this model, for it will be sealed in a display box.
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