drobinson02199
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Everything posted by drobinson02199
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Jon: No, I don't think so. I bought this to give me a break from ships, and I've enjoyed Occre's different materials approach. But my next one is going to be the Branneren from Caldercraft. Regards, David -
Painted the tender body. Decals cover much of the sides and back, but you need to have enough blue to cover the areas where they don't meet. Regards, David
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Removable jigs determine the angle of the top flange of the tender. Regards, David
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And here it is with the metal sides on. I remembered to use my Dremel sanding drum to rough up the sides that are glued, so gluing set quickly. Regards, David
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Started work on the tender. Here's the first stage of the body frame. Regards, David
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Added the smokestack. This is difficult to build. I had to putty the areas where the conical section joins, but that worked fine and painted fine. The instructions (see diagram) suggest the most complex and difficult way to add the screening, but it's simpler to just use a circle, and that worked well and looks fine. I didn't pay close enough attention to some of the alignments, so if you look closely you'll see that the crossbar on top of the smokestack isn't aligned front to back as it's supposed to be, but ah, well. Final picture shows the stack mounted, and the bell rope rigged. The engine is now completed, and it's on to the tender. Regards, David
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My portholes are all painted black. Regarding the nameplates: I don't have the instructions any more, but what I did before mounting was to paint them black, let that thoroughly dry, then lightly sand down the raised letters to reveal the brass underneath. If you do it carefully, you won't disturb the black background of the nameplate. Then you can mount it. I've attached a photo of my stern nameplate. Regards, David
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Two things added to the engine: Pipes running from the cab across the top of the boiler on both sides. RealWorkingSailor/Andy -- if you see this can you help me out with what these are and what they do? On the model at least, the vertical fixtures do not touch the boiler -- they are attached with brackets and stand off from the boiler. The headlight. Regarding the pipes -- the brackets require drilling into the boiler (as does the headlight), and because it has a curved surface the drill wants to skitter. I broke a couple of bits but eventually got it done -- and then did a LOT of touch up work on the boiler after installation. To install them, I started by simultaneously fixing the rear end of the pipe to the cab and the first vertical fixture. To get that positioned, I dry-fitted the assembly at those two points, marked the bracket hole, drilled, then glued the pipe at those two points. Then it's a matter of sliding the fixtures on and doing the same. I mounted the brackets onto the fixtures first, then slid them on. Some adjustments to the wire are needed as you go. The end cap beads supplied in the kit don't fit, but I found some brass buckets from an earlier ship build in my spares supply and they made perfect end caps. Regards, David
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I looked at my model and the ventilators seem to be different sizes. For example, the one forward of the foremost stack looks slightly larger than the one forward of stack #2. Regards, David
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Kgstakes: Parts are good -- high quality. Instructions are another matter. You can see references to them in my log above, but basically there are no detailed written instructions. What you get are some step-by-step diagrams with symbols and parts indicated by code -- but there is no way to figure out what part is what without looking at the picture and then searching for it in the parts bag. Laser cut and etched parts are coded on the diagrams of the wood and brass sheets -- it's the loose parts you have to find from the drawings. Strongly recommend having clear plastic cases with dividers so you can categorize the parts and see them clearly when you look for the one you need. I think this is an advanced modelers kit. I have been able to figure it all out -- you just have to look carefully and pay attention to what needs to be painted when -- and then figure out the best sequence for some assemblies yourself. I'm doing that now with a complicated pipe assembly on the boiler. Regards, David
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Andy: You have really enhanced the quality of my build log. Thank you. Where did you get all of your detailed locomotive knowledge? Regards, David
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Added the front braces to the boiler, and also some fittings on the side of the boiler that pipe down to a device in front of the wheels. Brakes perhaps?? Regards, David
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Ken -- For all I know, what you see IS the pop valve. None of the parts are given names, so one has to assume. I assumed whistle, but could be a pop valve. Regards, David
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This next item includes the whistle at the top, but I'm at a loss regarding what the large cylinder is for. Perhaps our locomotive expert Andy can illuminate? BTW, the light colored areas on the black rods are not a sloppy paint job -- it's light reflection. [WHOOPS -- just looked again. They are areas where the paint came up as I pressed down. Will touch up.] 😋 Regards, David
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Thanks, Andy!!
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I'm not enough of a railroad expert to know for sure what this newly mounted item is -- the instructions, such as they are, don't give parts any real life names. But looking at it, I surmise that it was some sort of hot water blowoff device, and the routing of the exit tubes to the drive wheels makes me think it was for creating traction in snow and ice. Regards, David
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Bell and bell housing mounted. The color guidance in the manuals would have the bell housing the same beige color as the pistons, but I wanted to match the nice brass bell and brass axle, so I painted the housing gold and it all came out looking as good as I'd hoped. Regards, David
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More work on the boiler; fenders added on main drive wheels, and boiler permanently mounted to the chassis. The instructions suggest that the roof be left removable to see the mechanics inside, but I'm going to eventually glue it down. You can see the mechanics through the window well enough, and later on there's a fitting from the boiler to the roof that looks like it would end up being loose and clumsy if fitted in such a way as to make the roof removable. So I'll glue it. The color pictures that are the guide to painting also suggest that the pipes be painted the same beige as the fittings, but I like the look of brass and it works well here. Regards, David
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Engineer's cab with removable roof. Regards, David
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Nice boiler and engine control detail on the inside of the cab. The perspective for one of the parts is off in the drawings, so you have to hand fit some things. Regards, David
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Working on the engineer's cab: The decals don't overlap precisely, so I painted all the edges of the cab with blue, where they don't overlap or where they come up to window openings. The pics show the cab after the blue paint but before decals, windows and trim, and then after all that. There is an anomaly in the instructions. The diagrams call for planking the sides of the cab with the same planking you see on the floor, then painting that and then applying decals. But the decals referenced in the build diagrams cover much less than the ones in the kit, and the color pictures show the larger decals applied to the walls without planking. So I skipped the wall planking. Regards, David
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Canute: I think it's just lighting. I used flash on the front view. All of the boiler paint is just flat black. Regards, David
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The boiler is assembled, painted and dry-fitted to the chassis (it's permanently installed later on). Here's what I learned the hard way with the boiler. I assembled it and spray painted it black. But when I went to install the brass bands, I found that it was almost impossible to avoid messing up the paintwork. So what you see is spray painted, bands installed, and then the entire thing hand-painted. I think that's the only way to do it. I found that I had to really twist the brass bands tight and take ALL of the spring out of them relative to the boiler circumference. If there is any spring, it will pull off the spray painted layer. Then you have to go in with a file, rough up that part of the metal shell, and re-glue. Even with the later bands with all of the spring removed, the gluing process still leads to marring of the boiler finish. I still recommend spray apinting the boiler first, as it creates an adhesion surface and leads to a nice hand-painted job. Regards, David
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I've put the metal sheeting on the rear boiler section. I wasn't getting any adhesion with super glue at first, even with the laser burns sanded down, but then I took my rotary tool and sanding drum and roughed up the inside surface of the metal, and that did the trick. Adheres quickly. Regards, David
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Here are the frames for the boiler assembly. I messed up the one on the right -- dry-fitted everything and then when I took it apart and went to glue it got careless and swapped some piece positions. Fortunately, the damage is recoverable -- I just lose some alignment tabs which I don't absolutely need. But bonehead move. Regards, David
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