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  1. Greg: Depends on which ones you are talking about. The ones that I had difficulty with were the curved ones at the bow and forward cockpit. In fact, one of the stanchions broke off the railing and I had to glue it back on. I did not heat them. Just bending and fitting. Regards, David
  2. Hello, Brian. I can't recall - but I would only have done so if they supplied balsa and called for it in the instructions. I use a steamer to take tension off the planks for bends like the ones you are referring to. Good luck - it's a nice little kit. Regards, David
  3. Shot racks installed. I put the shot into the racks before installing them, and I would highly recommend that. This will be my last post for a while -- going south for some warm weather! Regards, David
  4. Added the catheads and all of the scrollwork. Some building notes: The hawse hole pieces next to the catheads are cut so that they fit perfectly -- if you fit them backwards from the way the manual says. So I had to sand down the bottom edges to get them to fit properly. The manual says to paint the scrollwork yellow. This is the same treatment (and same instruction) that Chris Watton used on the HMS Fly, which I also built. I love the look of brass, and don't see the point in painting it yellow -- so I left it plain (as I did on the Fly). Regards, David
  5. Tree Rail and Timberheads installed and painted. All of the posts have to be sanded down to fit in the slots in the railings. I also found that it's best to install the posts in the top railing one at a time, align the first post and glue it, then trim the rail, then the next post and align that with the slot, glue it to the top, and so on. That way all of the posts align when you finally glue it down to the lower rail. Regards, David
  6. Finished planking and painting the inside bulwarks. The manual calls for the 1x4 second planking strips for the inside bulwark planking, which I used, but for the short piece across the rear I used a 1x5 first planking strip, because the strip width fits better. Regards, David
  7. Flavia: I left the deck natural and just used clear satin polyurethane varnish. It's a great kit. Enjoy it! Regards, David
  8. One option when you buy this model is to get a pre-etched deck (so you don't have to plank it), and I took that. In the photos, you can see the deck on the laser-cut sheet, and then mounted on the ship. The manual reads as if you are planking the deck, and it has the side bulwarks planked before deck planking, and then painted red after. When you use the pre-etched deck you really need to plank the bulwarks after you mount it. So you can see that at this point they aren't planked yet. Further, if I paint the side bulwarks after I plank them, I'll need to d
  9. Second planking done, sanded and first coat of varnish applied. The pear wood Chris Watton used on this ship reminds me of the Tanganyika wood he used on the Revenge. Regards, David
  10. Started on the second planking. The pear wood for that installs very easily and lies flat. Regards, David
  11. I've filled, sanded and varnished the first planking, and done some work on the stern. The diagonal planks you see at the stern are the pear wood that will be used for the second planking (which is next). As I mentioned earlier, I will probably not paint the hull white as I really like the look of the finished wood. Regards, David
  12. Except for the top rail, first planking is done. I experience hull planking as an existential art form. You never quite know what pattern you're going to end up with. This one reflects my continued use of side-bending (with the help of my steamer) until I finally threw in the towel and let the planks run. The result is the most interesting planking pattern I've ended up with to date. Regards, David
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