Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1,076 profile views
  1. Now some deck detail at the bow. This will be my last progress post for a few weeks. Off for a vacation with my wife. The copper plates are now in shipping to me, so when I get back I'll be able to finish the coppering. Regards, David
  2. More deck detail at the stern. I need to find something to "decorate" that blank white wall above the railing. Regards, David
  3. Antony: I just caught up to this wonderful build. The quality and ingenuity of your work on these scratch built models continues to amaze me. This is quite a step up from the Turtle Ship! Regards, David
  4. Here's the stern deckhouse. I like the look of this model with the brass/paint/wood combination. Regards, David
  5. The deck moldings and the channels are now on the ship, and they make it look much more finished. I'm having to work out of sequence waiting for the hull plates to arrive, but fortunately there are deck structures I can do. Regards, David
  6. Your strips look terrific. As I noted in an earlier post, I couldn't get a good result using a pounce wheel -- but I am going to use strips to edge the bow, stern and keel. Regards, David
  7. A bit more -- there is nice molding to dress the area where the planked deck meets the bulkhead. See before & after pics. [and again, pictures in reverse order] Regards, David
  8. While I'm waiting for the rest of the copper plates to arrive from Ages of Sail, I'm doing what I can to move forward. Here are the planked decks. I can do the next steps involving more deck finishing, but don't want to do the port covers or the white hull strips until I finish the coppering, because they will mar/bend when I lay the ship on its side. Regards, David
  9. [EDIT NOTE: As sometimes happens on this site, the pictures came out in reverse order from what I intended] I'm stuck at the moment because there aren't enough copper plates in the kit to finish the job -- by about 400. Ages of Sail is sending me more, but in the meantime I'm working around it to the extent I can, which is limited. I've mentioned above that I used a different approach to copper each side of the hull. On the first side I started at the keel, then worked up a bit, then went to the waterline, worked down, and then fitted the two together. You can see that in the picture below. On the second side (the one I plan to display), I started at the waterline and am working down (you can see where I ran out of plates). As the picture shows, it's a much better looking pattern up close. From 3 feet or more away, the first side looks fine, but the display side looks much better. Regards, David
  10. I haven't posted in a while because I've been coppering, coppering, coppering . . . One side now done -- picture attached. I started on the side I don't plan to display so I could learn from it. Results are fine, but on the other side I think I'll start at the waterline and bring it down to the keel, where the final fitting of odd pieces and shapes will be easier. On this side, I did it where the bottom and top layers met, and it was a LOT of cutting, filing, and fitting. I'm a bit concerned about my supply of copper plates, but we'll see how that goes. May have to call Ages of Sail for a "make good". Regards, David
  11. Yes -- as soon as I bring this section over to the bow, I'm going to start on the waterline and work down. Regards, David
  12. HOF: Thanks -- the YouTube videos were really helpful. He's using very thin plates -- mine are the thicker kit plates so I don't have the same flexibility he does. Two big things I took out of the videos: The idea of end-capping the cutwater, stern and keel. It's given me a new thought on how to do that on my model. I'm reflecting on his approach of doing the waterline with a row of plates and then using cut plates in the middle to finish off. I was going to trim plates to fit at the waterline. On reflection, I think his way will work better and so that's what I'll do. I'm using medium glue all the way, and it's working pretty well. I'll post a shot when I get a bit further along. Regards, David
  13. Hof: 2,500 plates? I'll be finishing the coppering with a glass of egg nog. 😛 Regards, David
  14. Here's why I abandoned the tape. I made up a strip of the copper tape and put it above a row of the real plates that I have started at the keel. It's really hard to get good shots of this because of the way the tape and plates reflect light, but you can see it in these two pics. The pounce wheel does a fair job of making rivet marks at top and bottom, but the divider rivets just don't look right -- AND, the tape is really shiny compared to the copper plates. Regards, David

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...