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About drobinson02199

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  1. I've finished coppering the starboard side (not yet the rudder frame or bow piece or keel). I gave some thought to whether to start at the keel, as the manual suggests, or start across the waterline to get a straight edge. I knew if I did the latter I would lose the beautiful upsweep at the bow, so I went with starting at the keel and hoped that the suggested technique of using copper paint and masking tape would work. So I masked off the waterline and then coppered up to it, leaving gaps in spots. Finally finished, and applied copper paint at the top, said a prayer and peeled off the tape. I was delighted with the result. A really straight looking waterline. Several pics here of the result that show how good the waterline looks, and also that upsweep at the bow -- and the stern line. I also took a closeup of one of the "gaps" that is filled in by the paint, and then stepped back to viewing distance with that gap in the center, and you don't really see it unless you are looking for it. The copper paint is made by Golden, and it's "Iridescent Copper". Got it on Amazon. Regards, David
  2. Started coppering the hull. You can see the curved section running up to blue masking tape, which is marking the waterline. I'm trimming it close, and then plan to use a tip from the manual by applying copper paint into the gaps to get a straight waterline. This is my "bad" side (the side that faces the wall), so we'll see how it comes out when I'm done. Not sure there's much choice to do it differently. Regards, David
  3. I've drilled the holes for the dummy barrels -- sort of. In the waist area of the boat, the dummy barrel strips rise behind the second level gunports to a point where there's no way to drill a centered hole -- nothing but air there. I drilled off-center holes anyway, but I think for those I'm going to have to put in a jury-rigged fix to keep the cannon barrels aligned. I'll have to drill a hole in a short piece of first planking, put the dummy barrel in the hole, and then using super glue, place the short planking back in the rear of the gunport such that the hole is centered and the barrel is aligned, but at least one end of the planking glues to the part of the barrel strip that's visible. It should work if I align the barrels for the centered holes first. It's a "down the line" step (mounting the dummy barrels), but that's the solution I"ll try. Regards, David
  4. Gun deck inside bulkheads painted. The critical area to get right is at the waist -- the quarterdeck will block visibility of most of the rest. Regards, David
  5. I've lined the gunports on the starboard side. I really like the look of the 3 colors together. I slightly flared the linings inward on the lower two gunport rows to show off the red just a bit more. Can't do it on the top row as the lining orientation is governed by being attached to templates at front and back. Regards, David
  6. I have started lining the gunports. They attach by a very thin edge, with 1mm recessed positioning important, so I needed a way to hold them in place while gluing. I made this jig which holds the side pieces with slight pressure, and allows them to be positioned. One finished gunport positioned -- 80+ to go! Regards, David
  7. That "floor" idea is a great one. I already have some miscellaneous wood chips rattling around inside my hull. Regards, David
  8. Toni: I took the color scheme from this picture on the Caldercraft Website. There are about 80 Victory pics in different stages of construction. Best regards, David Robinson
  9. I have painted one side, and I'm pleased with the result. I'll have more to do right at the top when I finish off the planking, but that's down the line, and it will be all black -- no masking needed. For the "yellowish" stripes, I used a color called beige from AK Paints. I wasn't happy with the yellow ochre paints I found online, and this one seemed to have the shade I was looking for, as it has some yellow in it. I'm going to put a coat of varnish on this to protect the paint job. Regards, David
  10. Here are the wales. I've attached two pictures that I worked over in different ways in Photoshop because they are hard to see, which is also why I picked the angle I did. The lower wale is the widest and begins in the lowest gunports. You can see the lower edge below them. The middle wale is below the middle gunports, and the upper wale is above them. Some construction notes: The measurements on the plan sheets differ slightly from the actual measurements produced by the gunport templates. The actual vertical distances are a bit larger. So I had to interpolate a bit. The upper wale is tricky, because the middle of the three boards has to lie 1 mm above the front edge. Took some fitting and taping of dummy planks to get it right. Now I will paint the sides, so that the inner lips of the gunports are painted, and then the red gunport lining strips will create a clean finish. I'll have some final painting to do when the top part of the planking is done after the quarterdeck is mounted. Regards, David
  11. I'm doing the wales. Lower wale done on both sides (not yet sanded & varnished). Turning to the middle and top wale, I see in the manual that both are made from three 3.5 x 1 mm strips -- so that's a total of 12 strips needed. I have searched the kit and all the wood strip bundles multiple times, and I can find 8. That's not enough to do both wales on both sides, even if I try to redeploy the leftover wood. Three 3.5 strips is 10.5mm. Two 5 mm strips is 10.0 mm, and I have lots of those. Looking at pictures of the model and where other rigging is involved, it seems safest to use the 5mm strips for the middle wale, which will be 0.5 mm narrower than spec, and then do the top wale with the 3.5 strips. I've had worse workarounds. Regards, David
  12. Finished planking up the sides to the point indicated in the manual; then sanded & varnished the hull in preparation for adding the wales. A big varnished walnut hull -- very pretty, and 100% will be covered! 😛 Regards, David
  13. Finished planking the gun deck inner bulwarks. What you see is unsanded, so all of the messy glue spots will sand out. I'm going to wait to do that until I have lined the remaining gunports, as bulkhead sanding is required for those. As I mentioned earlier, cutting out the gunports didn't seem practical at these angles, so I cut and fitted each piece. Regards, David
  14. Yes, what I mentioned in step 3. I will sand and varnish the second planking to protect it and make painting easier. I'll also sand and varnish the inside bulkhead planking before I paint that. Regards, David
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