rtwpsom2

Thanks Mark, so when it says the bowspirit is 28' outside the inner stem, that is a straight line length and not horizontal (e.g. parallel to the keel)?

If a spar plan says 35' outside the cap for the jibboom, is that measured horizontally or parallel to the centerline of the boom? I'm assuming it's parallel, but the distance to the cap was 28' from the FP, which is horizontal, so I thought I'd just check.

Noice! Thank you Roger!

I just spent $30 on this version, I'm not spending another $33 for that one page.

That's pretty much what I'm doing (albeit without the knowledge of the previous editions). If anyone with an earlier edition could chime in, that would be nice, too.

These are the references I am working with. The cross section isn't the exact ship, there are no references for that ship, this was a sister ship launched by the same builder/designer just a few months earlier than the one I am working on. It doesn't show the smoothing, it just shows the board layout. This list of notes was taken from the table of offsets, the only document that I actually have that I know is specifically concerning this hull. I can only guess as to what it means, and my guess is that it means the depth, e.g. at the rabbet line.

Most likely, yes. I'm uncertain of the dimensions but there should be a keelson and a rider, both approximately 14s x 24m.

Thank you for that. I think that unless someone chimes in with other thoughts I will probably go with this as the design.

Thanks for checking Meddo, I appreciate it.

So Jaager, you think it would be more like this with the light blue line being the surfaced line? This number and size of DS's seems more reasonable. The rabbet line is let in 4 inches at midships and 3.5 inches at the front and rear. the garboard strake is 8s x 14.5m 1st diminishing strake is 6s x 14m 2nd is 4.5s x 14m the solid gray curved line in the image is the Mold Line the dashed black line below it is the ML offset 4 inches, e.g. the standard plank thickness The solid blue line is the dubbed off line

I know, this is just a basic layout for board sizes and to get a pattern for the floors.

I'm working up a layout for a friend and wanted to see if I have it sized correctly. The Keel is 14s x 40m and apparently the shoe is counted in the sizing. I don't know the shoe thickness, but best guess is 4 inches. The rabbet line is let in 4 inches at midships and 3.5 inches at the front and rear. the garboard strake is 8s x 14.5m 1st diminishing strake is 6s x 14m 2nd and third are 5s x 14m the solid gray curved line in the image is the Mold Line the dashed black line below it is the ML offset 4 inches, e.g. the standard plank thickness The two "guessed at" factors in this are: 1. the size and number of diminishing strakes 2. the distance between the top of the keel and the Mold Line. The drawing I have scaled with the bottom of the shoe being at 40 inches below the mold line, but that doesn't jibe with the overall keel dimensions. The overall keel would have to be around 44" it would have to a bevel rabbet.

Echo Point Books & Media

I already have, am waiting to hear back on that front. And the guys on here recommended the book to me, so I will be a bit irate if they themselves haven't got a copy.

Well, it's probably only glaring to me because I need the info that has been omitted, but... Anyway, I just got a copy of this fine book and am greatly impressed with it, however I have come across an error that I am hoping others can help me with. Can you guys look in your copy and check out Table 9.1 on pages 145 and 146. In my book page 145 should be the first part of the table and page 146 should be the second part, but both pages are copies of page 2 of the table. I would especially like those with a hardcover to check, as I have the soft cover and it might be different in different editions. Also, if anyone does have page one of table 9.1 could you scan or photograph it and send it my way, I could really use some info on Great Republic from it. Thanks

AntonyUK, do you have drawings and a scale you are currently modeling?

Use the method that EdT uses on his Young America. He uses a stick sized to two dimensions of the block, drills two holes in it for each sheave, then moves down and drills two holes for another, etc. until he has 6 or 7. then he starts notching in between to shape them and eventually cuts off each indivdual one. Look at part 253 on this page: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/&page=89

It's interesting seeing the different materials people use to make their personal use tools and jigs from. I've seen wood, mdf, aluminum, and 3D printed plastic before, but never acrylic. Looks sexy.

I think CNC would be better to make the parts of the model, instead of using it after the parts are assembled. You could use EdT's idea of drilling the iron bolt holes and using those as pins to align your parts during assembly and then there would be no fairing to do to after the fact, maybe just a little light sanding here and there.

Rigging blocks might be pretty hard in normal scales, being so small. Most PLA type printers only work in resolutions down to .2 mm. A 9 inch block in real life would only be 3 mm in 1/72nd scale. How big are the blocks you are planning on printing and in what scale?

I have a little experience working with wooden ship kits, but my sons always ask if they can help. I'd really like to build my HMS Victory with them so I decided to get this small kit to help them learn some of the principles behind wooden ship kit building. We got started by cutting the Keel and the first four frames out. The older son is the only one that can handle the Xacto knife so he cut those with my help. Both of them got bored with sanding quick but when I pulled out the rotary tool with the sanding drum to do the inside edges, they didn't mind so much. These are just dry fitted right now: The futtocks will be visible in the finished product and I didn't want to leave them blackened from the laser cut. So I thought I might spice them up by adding a veneer to the inner edges down to below the floor. Hmmmm, where to get the veneer? So I decided to test out this little saw I bought off Amazon and see how good it could do. I used one of the thicker planks from the kit to see if the saw could do planks. The result on the sprue plywood: I didn't get pictures but next I tried making a veneer, something pretty thin that I could use on the frames. The result was a few section of veneer. I wasn't able to get any really long thin strips but I did get multiple shorter pieces. Yes I did clean the glue up but not perfectly, I want a nice crisp corner when I trim later. The Result: We have yet to see if that will do anything for the overall model, but it was fun and I can chalk it up to experience for later.

cough cough cough Oh, don't mind me, just enjoying the build. edit: After going to the manufacturer's website and viewing their model, I should note a couple of things to avoid if you want the model to be accurate. Don't mount the forward boat davits (or the boats) or the bow and stern flag masts. The davits were unshipped when the bow was modified to the Atlantic bow and the flag masts were removed after her shakedown cruise.