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About Charter33

  • Birthday 01/21/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Berkshire, UK
  • Interests
    Model ships -especially HMS Victory (Caldercraft)
    Live steam locomotives
    R/C Aircraft
    Classic motorcycles

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  1. Hi Bill, I was advised to use Birchwood Casey Brass Black by other members of this web-site and have found it an ideal product, although the initial preparation of the brass is a crucial factor in achieving the optimum result. Cheers, Graham.
  2. Hi Nicholas, It's a while since I have been able to get near by own build of the Triton, but from memory I think you will find that these rectangles show the position of the scarf joints that join the various pieces. If you look at the central one on the plan view labelled 4 (keel) the view shows the type of joint from the side. The rectangles on 1 and 5 (keelson and false keel) are the same joint but viewed from above. The aim is to have the orientation of the joints on each separate assembly alternating for additional strength. The same joints appear on the side view but the other way r
  3. Hi David, I posted a reply to your enquiry last night - I had missed your question due to work, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. It's at the end of my build log. Graham
  4. Hi David, This is only my second attempt to build a model ship so I wouldn't regard myself as being anywhere close to being an expert! I tend to 'wing it' and rely heavily on the build logs of the more highly accomplished members of this site and my copy of 'The New Period ship Handbook' by Keith Julier. I'm happy to try to answer your questions as best I can: 1. Follow the instructions to fit the dummy barrel strips. They get painted black before the gun ports are glued in place. Eventually, once the hull is planked and the ports have been lined, holes are drilled into t
  5. Yes - that's the one, Bruce. It was 'donated' to me by the father of one of my former students when he up-graded to a larger machine. The electricity company did their work at the beginning of the summer break. It only took a few days. They then left the trench work open for the next month. I got away with some light surface rust that was easily dealt with. A couple of bearings had to be replaced anyway and I also took the opportunity to replace the 3 jaw chuck. Bought a nice but inexpensive 4 jaw independent at the same time. It was left to dry out for a very long time before
  6. Hi, Thank you for the kind comments and 'likes'. I am genuinely appreciative and humbled. I decided to diverge from the instruction manual and turn my attention to the issue of the fire buckets. I'm not the first to feel that the tapered brass items supplied with the kit, although adequate, are a little bit lacking in detail. To be honest my initial attempts to re-machine the supplied components was not a success! Deprived of access to the workshop machines at school I would usually use because of the current global health situation I have been restricted to using
  7. With the completion of the Quarterdeck Barricade assembly a minor psychological milestone has been reached - I'm exactly half way through the first instruction manual! Before finally fixing it place, together with other deck fittings, I wanted to add more detail to the inner bulwarks, notably the black mouldings that feature so significantly on the scale 1:1 version in Portsmouth, something the original kit omits. With building materials unavailable from local model shops which are now closed for the foreseeable future it was time for a bit of improvisation. I do have some 1 x 1
  8. Welcome back!! I look forward to following your progress again - I often look to your Build log for inspiration, and those photographs you took on board are a significant research source when I try to add detail ...... thank you. Graham.
  9. Hi Helli, I've had this problem once as well. I think I solved it by clicking on edit, then deleting the pictures from the bank of imported photos at the bottom. I believe it was necessary to hover over the thumb nail picture for the X to appear. I'm no 'IT techy', but it might be worth a try. Good luck - and a very nice build you have there! Graham
  10. Copy all the ideas you like, a lot if them I picked up from here too! My absence was not through choice, I assure you, but it really is good to be back at it. Some interesting R/C aircraft in the background there..... Cheers.
  11. A great start Helli. I look forward to watching your progress. Welcome to the Caldercraft Victory club! Cheers, Graham
  12. Hi, What did I receive today? - the postman delivered an off-cut of velcro from my sister. Sounds a bit uninspiring, but let me explain. A nine inch length of velcro, just the hoop, not the loop, was more than enough to complete the friction sander I made the week before last. With full time retirement getting ever closer I decided at the end of last year to try my hand at taking part in a couple of craft fairs, selling some of the bowls, automata and other small wooden items that I make. The plan was to see if I could make what my Grandfather used to r
  13. Hi Will, Lovely grain, very much like the figuring - my guess is walnut, but not the grade usually found in model ship building. As a veneer there is a beautiful box crying out to be encased in this........ my fingers and creative juices are itching in anticipation, you are one lucky bunny to have this to play with - good luck! (oh so jealous!) Cheers, Graham
  14. Hi, Thank's for the comments and 'likes' gentlemen - always genuinely appreciated. Robert - your photographs of the original ship are proving to be a great source of information, as is your own impressive build log - thank you. Wallace - welcome aboard! In fairness I feel I should flag up the observation that has occasionally been made on this site that although the main aim of this hobby is to complete a well made model, the journey travelled to achieve this is equally, if not more, enjoyable and important. That said I must confess that sometimes I will occasionally climb
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