Jaxboat
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Your comments on restoration period ship models are interesting. I totally agree that the answer is resin casting. Not cheap I am sure but more accurate. Jaxboat -
HI Chris, That would be very welcome! Best Jaxboat
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Hi Chris, Just a question. One of the many things I liked about your shop website was a section on what was in devlopment at Amati. Did you do thta yourself or was it someting thtawas put out by Amati? Jaxboat
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How about HMS Shannon? It has a US as well as a British connection.
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Thanks to all on suggestions . Ben I definitely will check the aft end. I read your Build log and I know exactly what you are referring to. Jaxboat
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Here is one: USS Independence. She was the first ship of the line for the US Navy launched in 1814. She was latter razeed. She was big and fast especially after she was cut down to a frigate. She also was around for a long time. She was burned for her fittings in 1915 Jaxboat
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HI Andy, Yes, I did get the figure head and cannons from Chuck. They are awesome . The model kit is outstanding with excellent instructions and design. When you build: do take Chuck's suggestion of temporary strips between the bulkhead formers horns. They are extremely fragile and break very easily . I love my Amati keel holder. If you decide to use something similar leave off the keel pieces. A building board is a better way for this large heavy model.model. Getting the deck centered is challenging as has been mentioned elsewhere . It was the only part of the build where I was tempted to use salty language . It has been a bucket load of fun to build this ship so far Jaxboat
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I like "the Admiral" standing on deck. Gives scale to the ship. Did you carve? Jaxboat
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Thanks Rusty, Working on the Wales planking and getting the row ports set up. It's always interesting that when you do something repetitious like putting in the row ports that you get better at it as you go. My reaction is usually to go back and redo the initial ones . Your build log is very helpful to me as is Trussbens. Haven't had time to visit all of the others but I will. More pictures soon (I hope!) Jaxboat
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Wow! OMG. I'm gonna need a bigger house!! Jaxboat
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Chris Love the workshop . I feel much better about mine now . I am in the corner of my garage. I live in Florida and basements are non existent in my area. The model is simply awesome! Best Jaxboat
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Here are some shots of the stern. Obviously, I have not trimmed planks down to the outside edge of the lower lower counter yet. I welcome any comments on the shape of the stern filler pieces. I am not sure I shaped them correctly . In hindsight, it would have been better to carve blocks. It would take longer but would be easier for me to visualize. I also need to adjust the transom horizontal pieces again. I seem to struggle even though I have used a pattern. Looking forward to more posting. Thanks to Anja and Chuck for helping this computer challenged Luddite figure out how to set up the log. Also thanks to Russ and others who encouraged me too start the log Best Jaxboat
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Here are some more pics taken last week. I am just starting the wales planking: I am making good use of the famous Chuck Passaro Plank bender. I wish I had all my money back from the many plank bending gadgets I have tried . Simple is best. While my bow planking is lined up nicely from a symmetry standpoint, I wonder if I am a tad too high up on the stem. Jaxboat
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Here is the start of my first ever build log on MSW. I have been working on Confederacy ever since the model was available. Initially my time was limited. My main objective for this build is first and foremost to do this beautiful model justice. Other objectives include: improving my plan reading and execution skils, improving my planking skills and having a great time while working on the kit. I have finished only one model, Bob Hunt's HMS Halifax, a wonderful little kit. Like Confederacy, she is an Admiralty Model. I think this type of model is great for starting out on because it teaches you a lot about the the structure of a wooden ship in this case of the late 18th Century. Here are some opening shots of carcass construction Best Jaxboat
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RE: Checkered floor. Bob Hunt has an even more elaborate floor for his HMS Fubbs model that is mind blowing. Unfortunately, the kit is no longer in production. Jaxboat
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Glad to see the "patient" has recovered and been successfully repaired. I can only imagine how sick you must have felt when you dropped her . Coppering looks great Best Jaxboat
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Copper for HMS Fly
Jaxboat replied to markjay's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I seem to remember that I mistakenly ordered two sets of the upgrade (or at least the copper plates). If interested, let me know and I will check my stash. Jaxboat -
Nigel You mentioned Keith Julier. I have seen nothing by him for some time in Model Boats. He must be getting up in years. Does anyone know if he is still active? His books really got me interested in the hobby. Though not as thorough as practicums (or intended to be), his ship reviews gave you an idea of what the model was like to build. He always added bit of humor too. Jaxboat
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I agree on "plastic" ship models. These days they are a multi media affair with PE, turned brass barrels, real wood decks and resin castings. I am currentlyt following a build of a 1/200 Trumpeter Bismarck on Model Shipwrights. The modeler is a master of PE parts and his build to date is awesome. Check it out if you would like to see what is possible in "plastic" these days. Jaxboat
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I would like to bring up a topic about authenticity that I suspect may cause some controversy and that is paint pigmentation . I would be very interested in comments from you as well as others. The colors of your prototype are gorgeous, especially the blue. . Your blue, which looks to me to be what would be today characterized as "Ultramarine Blue", would be possible with inorganic pigments albeit expensive. However, I have always been under the opinion that a light stable bright red was not possible at this time. At this period in time, I do not think there were any organic red pigments with maybe the exception of carmine which is not light stable. Iron oxide reds are darker (blue shade) The main light stable color pigments I can think of for this period would be: black (carbon black), white (white lead), gold leaf, blue (ground lapis lazuli) and red, yellow and brown ochres (based on iron oxide heated to various temperatures with differing degrees of oxygen). I suspect there was also a inorganic green but not sure of the chemistry. Today, you can get a Chrome oxide green but not sure during this time period. Look forward to comments. Your build is awesome . Thanks for sharing it and comments on your development process with us. Jaxboat
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Great Photos. How lucky we are to have the real ship to study As always, your models are excellent and well designed. I look forward to following your development of this kit. Based on the dimensions you discussed, if I build her, I am going to need a bigger house to display her!
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Hello Chris Good to hear from you. Can you let us know what is up with Revenge? Best Jax Boat
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Next kit suggestion???? moved by moderator
Jaxboat replied to Rich_engr's topic in Wood ship model kits
I consider myself a semi experienced beginner. I have completed Bob Hunt's HMS Halifax and I am now working on the ME Confederacy. I also tackled the ME Constitution far too early and eventually my cumulative mistakes brought me to a full stop . It was a valuable experience but only because it taught me what not to do . ME has been wonderful in supplying me new parts for the early part of the build and I intend to restart her in the not too distant future . Chuck Ps models have excellent instructions that even a Weblo like me can follow if I go slow. Confederacy is big beautiful and, thanks to Chuck's excellent instructions, is a model a beginner can strech himself or herself with . Bob Hunt (Lauck Street Shipyard) has great practicums for a number of models of varying degrees of difficulty from Model Expo and others that help you build your expertise. Bottom line, as a newcomer, I suggest that you look for a build with a degree of difficulty you feel comfortable with and excellent instructions as supplied or supported by a practicum. Happy Modeling Jax -
Excellent build of this venerable plastic model. I hate to say this but my first build of a Revell model of Constitution predates the intro of this version by at least a decade! I seem to remember the introduction of the 1/96 version was really big dealand she became the flagship of the Revell line. The vacuum formed sails never looked good but the ratlines were at least passable. Some versions of the model even came with prepainted copper plates. I recently purchased a heavily discounted 1/96 and hope to build it in conjuction with my ME version. Thanks for sharing your build and bringing me back with nostalgia Jax
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I think Caldercrafts orginal idea was to make an authentic 18th century paint. I read some original info on their enamels that warned that since they were authetic they might contain some toxic pigments used in that era . Their current water bourne line is definitely "green" . Iron oxides were the pigments of choice for paints of that era. Colors are created by heating rust with varying degrees of oxygen. I have tried Admiralty's WB acrylics and found them to be very good. I had a chance "AHA" moment recently when I used an electric piant shaker designed for model paints on the Admiralty red ochre. The colors were much better then when I just using a battery powdered stirrer. As for viscosity, acrylics can "body up" when they are left standing too long. Before using them, subject them to shearing via the stirrer or shaker. Only then decide if you want to add diluent. Use distilled water as diluent or whatever Admiralty recommends for thinning. Never use tap water unless your tap is connected to an RO unit. Another consideration is how you are applying the coating. An ideal brushing viscosity often is not ok for spraying. Ideal viscometrics are also determined by the porosity of the substrate. Bottom line test the paint and your application device on a scrap or non-critical area before going "totus porcus" on your entire model. Hope this helps Jax
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