pietkm

Hi Rod,

Great job, as always. Now up to the perimeter railing, which my old eyes found one of the most difficult parts

of the build. But if you like ratlines you're gonna love this one. 

Piet

@Mark.

Mark the level 1 deck is not flat, it follows the hull curve, maybe 1.5 or 2 mm over its lenght.

Glueing together the level 2 parts should be done using the level 1 as a base.

Piet

Harry,

Since you still can remove the level 2 superstructure best way to go seems to me to put putty on the hangar where

the gap is, then place tier 2 on the tier 1 deck (protected) and squeeze out excess putty and remove. Seperating the

hangars from the forward tier 2 really is no option because of the extra damage created.

How did you create the gap? Did not glue the two parts tier 2 while placed in position on tier 1?

Hope this helps a little, keep us posted.

Regards,

Piet 

Rod,

You are correct about the pulleys, there is only 4 while there should be 8.

Piet

Hi Harry,

Great result! Happy to see my suggestion put you on the right course.

Keep the problems coming!

Regards,

Piet

Hi Harry,

How about removing material from the front PE only and moving the sliding door 2.2mm outward. The sliding door will no

longer be in the center, but is that a problem?

Hello Rod,

Looking good. What did you use on the deck parts? I'm not much of a painter and don't want to spoil them.

Surprised to see your decks so flat, mine are almost like a half circle, must be the warm and humid climate

here. Anyway I have many parts for practising as I have a replacement deck set for the broken original.

Piet

Hi Rod,

Both of you are ahead of me in the build. Glad to see my remark on your mishap was still on time for a relatively easy

repair, which you executed perfectly. No build log, because no camera here.

Regards,

Piet

Harry,

Agreed we move this topic to your build log. You're right the hangar walls will be very close to the circular railings

if you don't reduce the width of your hangars. Also the hangar walls will not be flush with the forward superstructure.

Some of the plastic parts to be placed later on the hangar walls will not even fit anymore. (In those Russian Youtube

videos of the Bismarck build they kept the hangars as is and just reduced the thickness of some of the plastic parts,

so they fit, not nice also). Amati took what was the easiest way out to them; reduce the hangar width and adjust the

size of the hangar door PE. Interesting to see what solution you come up with.

Piet

@ HOF00

Looks like you did nothing wrong. In comparing the Hachette and the Amati versions I noticed the hangars are different

in width, The Hachette is wider yes, because they used 3mm ply for both of the long walls, Amati on only 1 side.

Better leave as is, or else some of your hangar PE parts will not fit anymore.

Seems to be a design fault by Hachette that was 'corrected' later in the Amati version.

Piet

Hello Rod;

Following your build with interest as I'm also building this kit. However while looking at your picture of the starboard

stern PE part I think you made a mistake there. Looks like you interchanged the SB and port PE and put it upside down.

It will give you problem in positioning parts later (gangway, outrigger) correctly. If you compare in the manual pictures #099

and #104 Amati also made a mistake here, #099 is the correct. It will not be easy correcting this, I realize, still I wanted 

to bring it to your attention, if you did not notice it yourself already.

Piet

Mark,

Do you know there is an e-book available describing the build and history of these Manila galleons, in particular

this Nuestra Senora del Pilar? It's called  "Retrato de un Navio" by Jesus Garcia del Valle y Gomez, available at 8 Euro

from Bubok.es.

Although it's in Spanish only, still you could get some interesting info from it I think.

Piet