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About hof00

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  • Birthday 07/16/1960

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    Manaia, South Taranaki, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Modelling Ships, Cabinet Making, Gardening, Cats

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  1. Looking good Sir!! I guess that now the fun begins.... ๐Ÿ˜ Good to take your time with this stuff. Cheers....HOF.
  2. Hi Chap, Another idea that comes to mind..... Have an "Experiment" with placing Masking Tape, or similar, on a small piece of Plank? (Then you have the problem of removing the tape after you've made the cuts....) (In my kit, there was quite a bit of extra Mahogany for the King Plank, I guess just for this purpose, maybe?) Yup, the Mahogany is extremely fragile.... (The Deck furniture, (Skylights, etc.) wood also....) Razor/Proxon Saw? A scalpel, Cross Cut tends to "Crush" the wood, as I'm sure you have experienced. Another Idea, how about a Bit of Sanding Sealer both sides of the Plank? Have a try on a small piece. The above are just ideas, Sanding Sealer can improve the integrity of the wood structure once dry and will not impair the look of the wood once the whole Deck is sanded as a complete unit. Anyway, trying to be practical/pragmatic. Maybe others on this forum can also offer some sage advice? Cheers....HOF.
  3. Hi Bob, You're popping up all over the place!! ๐Ÿ˜ Saw your enquiry on "Cabbie's" Mermaid. I had the problem you described above.... I resorted to my "Mini " Proxon saw to cut Cross-grain after experiencing the same problem that you are encountering.. You could support the Mahogany strip on thin scrap, wood and use a Razor Saw to go cross grain? (You would need some sort of template to decide on cross Grain cuts and longitudinal cuts.) (Sorry, I didn't do a template for my build, just had a thought that this might make things easier.) I didn't try it, but maybe if the King Plank is affixed first, there'd be less risk of breaking it. Again, have a go on a small piece first, see if the integrity of the wood is better stuck down. (The only downside to this is that if in error, you'll have to try and remove the King Plank.) If it helps, I marked the King Plank 2.0mm from either long edge to give me the cross grain depth of cut for each "Joggle." Mark the vertical once you know the length of joggled ends. (From memory, the long ends of each joggle were approx. 80') Another thing is that the Mahogany around the hatch openings will assist in determining the position of the King Plank. (Once again, you will have cross grain mitre cuts....) Planning I guess. Cheers.... HOF. Get your Waterway/Margin plank on first, it should flow from there.
  4. Hi Chap, .Pretty good to see some New Zealand Modell Kitsets making the International stage.... (Good on Peter Jackson for his passion/s.) There are some wonderful "Bare Bones" aircraft that I have seen in some of the regional airports here.... (Mr. Jackson again....) If you can, have a look at one of Mr. Jackson's, if not his first film, "Bad Taste....." (Alien Splatter Movie.) I have friends here that helped with the "Soundtrack." (Forgotten Silver is another wonderful NZ Spoof well worth a look.) Cheersโ€ฆ.HOF.)
  5. Hi Chap, Looking pretty damn good!! (Much better than this "Go For It Guy." (Brings back some fond memories....) So, I guess you'll be planking the Deck soonish? I used a Mahogany strip for the Waterway/Margin Plank. If guess if you don't have the mahogany Strip timber at hand you could always stain? You should easily be able to "Edge Form" the Deck Planking as the curve is not too severe. (I used Aliphatic Resin/PVA for Decking, gives time to adjust things and simply wipe off any excess.) Ensure that the Margin Plank goes all the way from Bow to Stern, Not right around the Stern, of course.(You can trim the Stern Margin later with a Razor Saw. I held the Deck Planking in place with Micromark Screw Planking Clamps, (Screws inboard of course.) (You might have a different method but ensure the Margin Plank is symmetrical and in-line with the False Deck edges, symmetry is everything with the Deck Planking.) You don't need to worry about Joggling at this stage, as you know. Ensure you draw a Centre line down the False Deck before you do the above also.... (-: That will also give you the Mitre for the Margin Plank at the Bow. There I go again, teaching you to suck eggs.... (-: Cheers....HOF.
  6. Nice "Skeleton!!" I think maybe sand the Doublers/Stiffeners with a narrow sanding block, Cross Grain, between the Bulkheads first so the Bulkheads don't get "Notched." (I used fairly Corse abrasive paper for this to start with. You'll decide what works for you.) Also, maybe run some Masking Tape along the edge of the False Deck when you "Fair" the Bulkheads, this should ensure that the False Deck Symmetry is retained, really important for the Deck Planking. ๐Ÿ™‚ Anyway, not teaching you to "Suck Eggs." A nice start Sir, take your time and know when to "Walk away." Cheers....HOF.
  7. ๐Ÿ™‚ Yup, there is a Build Log of the Cuttyโ€ฆ. (Build logs are under HOF00) No worries, (And no charge ๐Ÿ™‚) for trying to offer assistance, that's part of the spirit of this site!! Cheers....HOF.
  8. Yup, I'm currently doing a "Tear Down" and re-build of A/L Sanson. (19th Century Steam Tug.) I was not happy with the way that this was going, so Pull it apart and try to put it back together.... (Log on this site.) I cannot do anything at present as all my modeling stuff is in storage with my moving company until early June. Even after we take possession of the new property, there will be more than a couple of weeks to unpack things. One of my colleagues in a past life used to say to me, "So many ships, so little time...." I'm really looking forward to the Mamoli "Flying Cloud." (I love the Clippers....They take a huge commitment in terms of research/time but well worth the effort. (My father used to say to me, "Son, it's not what you come into the world with, it's what you leave behind." ๐Ÿ™‚) Cheers....HOF. .
  9. Hi Chao, Good to hear your progress. The Rudder Tube did not take all that long to drill, the Ply is pretty compliant. You'll be on to the Deck soon, look at it as an ":Opportunity, " (A Learning perhaps?) I am sure that your decking will be better than mine!! (If you can complete your Longboat to that standard, you have some awesome Ship modelling skills. ๐Ÿ™‚ ) I'll send some Pen Duick photos to your E-Mal a little later this evening. (One thing I have learned, esp. with the Cutty Sark, is walk away if your not in the right head space. ๐Ÿ™‚ ) Again, think about the next move and the consequences of your actions. Sleep on it perhaps? (Practical and Pragmatic.... I think that I am teaching you to suck eggs here? ๐Ÿ™‚ ) (I am enjoying the Log and your build, as stated, I have plenty of downtime at present.... ๐Ÿ™‚ ) Cheers....HOF.
  10. Hi Chap, No, I did not have a long drill bit.... ๐Ÿ™‚ I have had a thought, (Today of all days), why not, after planking, affix a Brass tube, Brass or similar, to the Sternpost with some "Strong Tape." Same ID as you Drill Bit.... (4.0 mm?) You can then be assured that the hole will be square and perpendicular, sound like a plan? I bored my Stern Tube hole holding the Bit on the Sternpost, as mentioned, loss of skin.... (I guess you may be able to find a longer 4.0mm bit but once the hole is started and deep enough, it should follow. I wouldn't use Power but do it by hand, my opinion only. (I used Long Nose Pliers and Fingers to turn the Bit.... ) Anyway, I am hopeful that this will work for you, nice to "Articulate" things if possible. (You can then operate the Tiller and the Rudder will move.... (Not that anyone will know apart from yourself.) I think maybe the Tube/Tape Drill Guide option will give you the required clearance between Rudder and Sternpost also?? What do you reckon? The communication is good, Sir, it's like revisiting the build and what I might have done differently. ๐Ÿ™‚) I guess the Hull Planking first to add that strength to the False Keel structure? Anyway, at the end of the day, your build. (you'll decide the best ay to approach things, consider carefully and maybe there are others on this awesome site that can offer more learned advice than this Chap. Really happy to proffer my advice. ๐Ÿ™‚ Cheers and Regards, Harry. (HOF)
  11. Hi Chap, In response to your biggest question first.... I drilled the Rudder tube after Planking, Hull and Deck. To gauge the angle, I held the Drill on the Sternpost, this ensured that the hole is at the correct angle and perpendicular. (As discussed, if the hull is planked first, the False Keel wont break. The "Doubler idea was just a thought....) So, the drill goes from the bottom, up. I placed a bit of Masking tape on the Deck where I judged the drill would come through to avoid any "Break-out." , Just take you time but keep the drill next to and in line with the Sternpost Make a template from Card for the Joggling operation first, it might save tears.... Cheers....HOF.
  12. Hi Chap, The penetration for the Rudder tube was drilled after the False Keel/Deck installed, and Hull Planking completed. The Hull Planking ensured that the Rudder Penetration did not compromise the False Keel integrity. ( I guess an idea is that you could laminate/glue a Doubler either side of the False Keel Rudder Penetration prior to planking, (That would give you a better idea of where your Drill Bit would be tracking and not compromise the strength of the False keel Just a suggestion....) From memory, I used a small bit and drilled parallel/vertical to the Stern Post, gradually increasing the drill Bit size. (The bigger Bit follows the smaller holeโ€ฆ.) Give a bit of "Wriggle Room" so that when you get to the final diameter, the Rudder fits flush with the Stern Post. (I used my fingers and {liers to turn the Drill Bit to this hole, a bit painful but well worth the discomfort/time/shredded skin.) Don't do this until you have the "Skeleton" completed, and, probably better complete before Planking is started. Or, If the false Keel is strengthened first, as per above, or, your Planking is installed first. (I am just suggesting an approach, you need to be comfortable with the method that you will take. Have a careful think about things and the "What If's?") ๐Ÿ™‚ The penetration/hole of the Dowel diameter will ensure that the Tiller/Rudder will be able to be "Articulated" if that's what you wish to achieve, otherwise, just glue it in place.... ) (I love the moving bits if possible.... :-)) Yup, the "False Keel "Doublers." You need these. (Either side) The space at the bottom of the False Keel is so that you can fair everything in before planking and achieve a "Knife Edge" profile for Planking. They also provide support for Planking at the extremities. This is a "Single" Planked Ship, no additional Keel so the more you can get the symmetrical "Fairing" "Knife Edge" of Keel extermities the better. Planking will extend a little further than the Keel extremities, don't worry about that too much, there's plenty of thickness in the Hull Planking to carefully blend into the faured Bulkheads/False Keel. (You'll see....:-)) Take your time, consider your next move at least three times and then sleep on it..... ๐Ÿ™‚ False Keel/Doublers takes a bit of patience. narrow sanding Block and "Cross Grain" sanding to remove excess material between the Bulkheads. (Don't gouge the Bulkheads!!) Get the "Knife" edge around the False Keel and the Planking should follow. (Flow) Does this make sense? Cheers and Regards, HOF. (Harry) If you want clarification, I have plenty of time on my hands at the mo until settlement. (Happy to assist if I can.) Domiciled in a holiday Park Cabin for the mo until 9th of June. Missing my three Abyssinian companions, Cattery in Wellington. at the mo.
  13. Ditto.... Nice upgrade of the Billings offering!! Very nice indeed. Cheers....HOF.
  14. Hi Chap, Good to see you "Back into the fold", as it were. Some "Positive" reinforcement, The shi looks awesome!! I think that the "Joggling" suits very well indeed!! In my humble opinion, of course, it suits the Ship.๐Ÿ™‚ I'd be interested regarding the steps achieved to get the result that you have achieved. (Yup, Pen Duick, Joggling on the Centre Plank, but interested in the process that achieved your results with "Joggling" in the Waterways. I have read heaps but I'm hoping you have some "Process" Photos.) (I've got so many ships to build, so little time.... (As one of my colleagues used to say....) I'd like to do something like this for the "Flying Cloud." (Wished I'd done it for the Cutty Sark.) Life over the water is o.k.. Had to sell my forever home in Wellington and have purchased a new property in Manaia, Taranaki. (Not so many Earthquakes but living under a dormant Volcano.) Movers completed the "Uplift" Yesterday, Models Crated and moved into storage along with all other contents., hopefully they will be in one piece when they arrive in a few weeks time.... (Got them to label the "precious" stuff "Fragile.") Anyway, settlement on the new property, early June. myself and my partner are in temporary accommodation in Taranaki. (Abyssinian Cats in care at a Cat Motel, three of them....) I cannot do any modelling until we gat set up, god knows how long it's going to take to sort all the boxes but at least I can still get on-line.... ๐Ÿ™‚ COVID19 Stuff: Not so much of an issue here at the mo, Level 2 today? Not quite sure what that entails but it's got to be better than Level 4, no movement, nothing and yesterday we did not get stopped by the Constabulary travelling to Taranaki. (Yourselves?) Anyway, probably too much information for you and this Forum.... You asked!! ๐Ÿ™‚ Cheers and Regards, Harry.
  15. Hi Chap, Sounds like you had a great "Road Trip!!" With the log I sent you yesterday, (Page 2 - 3), if you print the Deck pictures, (A4), it should be pretty close to the Model Deck dimensions, from memory.... Joggling on the centre can be more accurately calculated. Anyway, all the best and I'll keep an eye out. Cheers....HOF.

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