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lmagna

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Everything posted by lmagna

  1. lmagna
    I don't know if these will fill the bill for you or not. https://www.mcronse.eu/al22517f-hermione-la-fayette-set-of-14-die-cast-figurines-189-artesania-latina-p-46117.html#.WiWpZlWnG00 They are listed as 1/89 scale and are about 20mm tall but at least one is about 21mm and another is only15mm, (Must be a cabin boy). I chose this link only because you can enlarge the picture at least large enough to get an idea of what the figures look like. They are available through a number of vendors at all kinds of prices. A couple of sites are even offering free shipping for Christmas. Hope this is useful to you. Lou
  2. lmagna
    Jim Thank you for sharing. The Mellon is stationed here in Seattle, (Not far from where I live) but the painting looks like areas in Alaska and northern British Colombia. Just another aspect of your talent. Not only do you depict the ship and sea/weather state but the location where as you say, you may never have been and make it all look "right". Lou
  3. lmagna
    Hello Jason I also live in the Puget Sound area and I was thinking that the mountains/water/Orca's looked more like the area around the Puget Sound entrance in which the mountains would probably be the Olympics. You can't really see much of the Cascades until you get much further into the sound closer to Seattle. Either way it is a very accurate looking picture and I can think of several places around here that still look like that even today. I have had the privilege of being followed by Orca's twice, (Two different times) across the sound while traveling by boat, and it is quite the thrill to watch several animals that are larger than the vessel you are riding in sweep by less than twenty feet away! Jim Pleas keep up showing your paintings, It is becoming a morning fix for me to looks and see what you will grace us with for the day. Lou
  4. lmagna
    Wow So many options! I have never made anything from a 3D printer and had no idea that the cost could be so inexpensive. Looking forward to your brass version Charlie. I think you will be impressed on how easy it is to do. Lou
  5. lmagna
    Hi Charlie You might try using a straight tube of K&S brass, (Or solid rod if you prefer). Cut a piece somewhat longer than you will need and chuck it into a Dremel, drill, or what ever you use and file the taper on the end. K&S tubing has fairly thick walls. When you get the taper you want cut a notch at the bending location and fold it 45 degrees. you can then either solder or if you prefer glue it and like stated before build the base from anything you want. One way would be to take the next size larger tubing and make another tapered cone just like the first and when you have the right shape cut it off and slide it over the other main pipe. Again solder or glue. You can do pretty much the same thing using aluminum tubing but I find the softer metal, not being able to solder it, plus it likes to clog my files more trouble than using brass. Give it a try, if nothing else it is a cheap experment. Lou
  6. lmagna
    Brian I am not going to add to the 'Opinions and ideas' as not only is unnecessary but there is no way i am even qualified! But I have come to the opinion over the years that if there are multiple suggestions on how to do something then there are multiple ways of doing something and that eventually you will come up with the way that WORKS FOR YOU. I am sure you will be able to find YOUR WAY. I will be watching from the back corner as I do not want to learn any more naughty words than I already know. Lou
  7. lmagna
    Denis By your explanation I have to agree that it must be a newer kit of six or less years old. Now the only question is, were the decals just bad to begin with, or did they become bad with poor storage? I have two places where I have to store my kits. The basement of my house, and a large closet on the main floor. The basement is pretty dry year around and unheated but you have to remember that the relative humidity here in the north west runs high pretty much year around. The inside closet on the other hand is mostly room temperature and it seems to be a much better storage location than my basement, at least to me. Still good work on your kit though. Lou
  8. lmagna
    Hey Denis I for one have full faith that you will be able to overcome and correct the decal issue. Looking forward to see what it takes, as OC says it's an old kit and decals are the first to go. Lou
  9. lmagna
    They are stalking the hull waiting for it to capsize! Hopefully not in your case. Lou
  10. lmagna
    Hi Denis You may want to try and sand the surface and edges of your cut out parts prior to gluing. The CC card plastic may be coated to protect the printing. Just a thought. Lou
  11. lmagna
    Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the "Redneck hot tub things" are floater net baskets. They could be thrown overboard I think but were intended to float to the surface if the ship went down quickly. (The nets not the baskets). On your Blue Devil it looks like your net baskets are empty. Not a good idea considering on how the Blue Devil model likes to turn upside down so much! Lou
  12. lmagna
    Patrick Looking forward to you doing my experimenting for me while I sit back and watch! Not really, today is one of my babysitting days for my youngest grandson so no building for me experimental or otherwise. Not unless I want to have to constantly avoid the "help" of a three year old! In fact I went to my building area after his last day and he had taken a bunch of my very small strips and stuffed them into the openings for the stern windows like a bunch of straw, breaking it all into somewhat small pieces in the process! Oh well at least he is showing an interest in building ships and not just spending all day on video games. Keeping the watch on a great build. Lou
  13. lmagna
    Patrick Looks like it may be a little too late this time as your P & Gs look fantastic, but next time possibly you could look into using Evergreen plastic. I comes in almost any thickness and width, some of them almost as thin as paper or light card stock. Also you can find plastic like paper in most craft or office stores. Another possible source for stuff like this could possibly be waterproof notebook paper. You can find "Write In The Rain" tablets at most outdoor stores. Cut strips laminated with CA would make them stiff and a little thicker to match your need. I have never tried this method/paper but it seem like it could work without breaking the bank. Something to possibly play with next time. The ones you built this time look perfect! Lou
  14. lmagna
    Denis I have seen it in a number of places but it is a little hard to find who is selling it. Here is one as an example though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heller-1-400-Jeanne-DArc-Derniere-Campagne-Carrier-Upgraded-Model-Kit-/252673196188?epid=1342588695&hash=item3ad47f009c:g:dYUAAOxyNo9Sub5g There may be better offers out there. Lou
  15. lmagna
    Pete Just because my comment was acceptable does not mean that I'm not full of it! The Admiral reminds me constantly that this is pretty much a state of being for me! I made the comment thinking that in many small ships, when the weather became rough many meals were served cold if at all. While I have never been at sea one scene comes to mind from the movie "The Cruel Sea" where the ship is in the North Atlantic rolling and pitching with a couple of feet of water sloshing back and forth knocking everyone in the way down. It was a wonder that in those conditions anyone could get anything done let alone eat! Lou
  16. lmagna
    I may be somewhat full of it and know really nothing about this at all, (Highly likely in fact) but I can't help but think some water down that stack would be pretty much a non issue. I would think that in seas that were high enough to go down the stack the cooking fire would be banked or even extinguished all together for fear of causing an unwanted fire in the pitching and rolling of the ship. In that case it would be a simple matter to just cover the stack with a canvas cover much like you would use on a hatch. Lou
  17. lmagna
    Denis There is a newer kit that includes photo etch and resin parts that updates the kit to "As built" instead of "As designed". Lou
  18. lmagna
    1/400 railings are readily available for the Titanic and I believe several other ships. 1/350 might also work but Denis will probably be well beyond that by the time he could get them. By the way Denis, i don't think the missiles would be stored on the rails but would be loaded just prior to launch from an internal magazine. Fun build to watch. Lou
  19. lmagna
    jud I'm sorry but I think the dog measuring system will never catch on in my house. Besides the only dog I have available is a Shih-Tzu and that would only work in the smaller scales! Also she is Chinese and i would have to translate the results anyway! Lou
  20. lmagna
    Hello wefalck I think what is going on here is not so much that the people cannot do the math, but that sometimes it is easier to use a “cheat sheet” or other assisting tool to do whatever mathematical conversion is needed. I cannot think of an area of human endeavor where people who work or indulge in that area do not at some point or another create some kind of mathematical shortcut to assist in their work. Why should modeling be any different? We convert sizes, change back and forth between imperial and metric measurements, work in decimals, fractions and number drills and many other mathematical disciplines. Why not take or create a shortcut to save having to do repetitive calculations or having to commit conversions to memory? Lou
  21. lmagna
    Snow It looks like you are well along with your build and its looking good. I suspect that with the large crews and other stuff a pirate ship had to carry in what was after all normally a relatively small ship, "getting around" was a bit hard no matter what. Cathead Definitely relevant and interesting. I also use spread sheets when doing initial research and drawings, (Even though I use Excel because "I have it"). I find it useful when you are converting a bunch of stuff from "real" sizes to model size even though after a while when you are working only in one scale it almost becomes automatic, especially if you are working in the more common drafting scales. When building a kit, conversions and the such I think do not come up as often. I also tend to prefer using metrics when modeling even though as a native American I use imperial measurements in everything else. It seems so much easier to measure out 28 mm than it is to do 1 1/8" for some reason, and of course multiplying or dividing metrics is far easier than doing it in fractions. Again doing it in your head is pretty much common for most people as you don't need to convert anything. Lou
  22. lmagna
    Patrick I have discovered that the Macro feature on my camera is a real ego killer! I USED to think i was capable of OK work! It also shows me just how good people here on this forum really are. Yours included. Keep it up! Lou
  23. lmagna
    Hello Snow A 5'8" person at 1/60 scale would be: 68/60= 1 1/125 (+) or just slightly over 1 1/8" or 28.7 mm. (29 mm rounded) You can get figures at these sizes but matching the clothing for the time period/ country you are building for might be a little harder. Lou
  24. lmagna
    Congratulations on your fine build. Looks like you also solved the not having enough hands problem as well. Lou
  25. lmagna
    I think hat canopy beds were also useful in the summer with lighter material to keep out bugs at night while possibly sleeping with the windows open. Lou

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