Paul Jarman
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The shelter deck complete. Not glued down yet as there are a few little areas need attending to. I changed the semtex deck colour 4 times. I originally painted it concrete but that was to close to the deck tan colour. I then went with a dark grey. I then tried a light green colour as was mentioned on the HMS Hood web sight. But that didn't look right. I finally settled on the medium grey which HMS Hood Association are fairly confident is the correct colour based on pictures from the wreck showing the colour. I have used the upper hull grey toned down with some white to achieve the colour. In the first picture the deck has been sanded flat inside the taped area. In picture two the yellow areas have been removed and the blue sections are the added PE for the splinter shields. The front section has been changed from rounded to straight. The portholes have also been changed on the port side as recommended on the web site. I have also raised or lowered various areas with PE. I have painted the bottom black. This allows you to see inside the deck better so you can pick out the details under the deck. I will add all the smaller parts like ammo boxes, flag lockers, reels, winches and the chocks for the ships boats, of which there are around 200 parts to fit before starting on the super structures. The name plate may be a bit to high up. But the letters are individual PE ones and to remove and replace would almost certainly ruin them.
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Sorry to hear that. I'm in the same boat as they say. Failing eyesight,shaking hands and generally a lot slower when working on my models. All age related. I find the small parts hard work. And rigging is just about doable without to many blocks. I find wooden models to much work now, so have turned to plastic kits whitch are a lot more easy to do, And then I make my modelling harder by adding PE to the model. I use a 10x table magnifier lamp and is a huge help. Paired with some 3x glasses it has improved my modelling enormously. Some of the lamps also have a smaller higher powered magnifier at one side. And a headband magnifier is also a good investment.
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The bow deck completed. Including the rocket launcher on top of number 2 gun. I've added a bit of black paint to the rockets so you can see there is something inside the cage. I have also invested in a second resin funnel. There is nothing wrong with the correct plastic one. But because it is a two part build the join is visible down the sides. The resin funnels are one complete part so look better having two the same. The first picture shows how the funnel bases would look without clipping at one end. One of the bases would cover the two hatches. The second picture shows the clipped bases which sit in place a lot better. Picture 3 is the paravane derrick and boom, used to pull the paravane through the water. I did wonder what the two housings where behind the breakwater. They are the sheds that had paravanes in. I have got two extra ones that come with MK1 upgrade kit. So may see if I can attach one of the plastic ones to one of the derricks and hang it down the side of the hull. picture 4 is the parts for the rocket launcher. The very small parts are only used if I have the door open, which I won't. It's onto the shelter deck know. I have started to add the PE, of which there is a lot both on top and along the sides. The area inside the yellow outline needs to be filled and sanded flat to match the area the arrow is pointing to. This is then painted up as the semtex part of the deck. The red mark is where the front part needs to be flat rather than rounded. And the green marks are where a small piece will be added to make the sections slightly longer.
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The bow deck nearly complete. You have to be very careful fitting the middle and bow deck. I added the shelter deck to make sure it fitted, which it did. But after carefully removing it when I glued the decks in place I must have added a bit to much weight to hold it down towards the stern and it moved down, probably because of the wet glue acting as a lubricant. A few days later when I fitted it back on there was a fairly large gap where it connects to the hull. After removing both decks and spending a few hours cleaning them up I glued the centre deck on first keeping it lined up with a mark I made for the end. And it now sits perfectly. As shown in the first picture. The anchors are the white metal MK1 upgrade ones. I have set one being let down and the other in place. Just the hand rails and some davits and the bow staff to add then onto the main part of the build in the centre of the ship. This Trumpeter kit is excellent, with just the odd exception everything fits so well. And with all the upgrades I have added it is looking like an excellent model.
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Some of the PE glued onto the bow deck. I did this because it was better to glue it onto clean plastic rather then painting it first. This will be painted in situ. Then there are all the other parts that can be added once painted. Still a fair bit to do along with plenty more PE.
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Middle deck completed. Didn't take long to do this section. There are over 90 PE enhancements from the MK1 upgrade kit on this deck. Which will be all but invisible once the shelter deck is in place. the Hawser reels where the worst part of this stage of the build. The parts are so fragile that most of the sides broke away. But managed to make a good job of repairing them. The cable drums are painted beige to allow them to stand out rather then using red paint which would be to overpowering. Onto the bow deck next. just have to decide what to replace and what to enhance.
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Stern deck complete. The blast bags are painted with ocean grey with a bit of white added to lighten the colour. I have added the brass tompions to the barrels which I think makes them look better than open barrels. Onto the middle deck next. There is quite a bit of work to do on this deck with all the added PE. Most of which will be hard to see once the shelter deck is in place.
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The stern deck is now complete and all the hand rails are in place. They look very good considering how fragile they are. Of all the PE I can put up with some of the very tiny parts, but I really hate PE handrails. These are the MK1 upgrade rails. They have the various areas cut out where there are cleats and bollards. The kit PE does not have this option. There are a few parts that will attached to the side. These will be added on completion. The davits are soldered together rather than gluing them, they look a lot better doing them that way. Number 3 is the davits for elsewhere, they have the advantage that when bent into shape they will have a tab on the bottom to add them to the deck which these ones did not have. The picture of the stern booms has had a part made up from plastic rod. The original supporting part was so fragile it bent out of shape. The part is not as big as it looks. I will concentrate on the stern guns next before moving onto the middle deck.
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The kit comes supplied with two extra gun turrets. A is as built from the box. There are no blast bags with kit and nothing to hide the gap where the barrels come through the turret. B is the Trumpeter upgrade blast bags and barrels. C is the MK1 upgraded barrels with blast bags. As can be seen there is a marked difference between the three versions. Especially in the length and diameter of the barrels. I am now almost certainly going to go with the MK1 upgrades.
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Starting the detailing. I like to work stern to bow on my models. The deck is painted deck tan as I don't like the wooden decks. I like it and it has come up really well. A lot of the fittings have been added. the guns are the replacement metal ones from the MK1 kit. The only thing I don't like very much are the resin blast bags. I did not realise working in resin is so complex. The slightest bit filed down to much could ruin the part. They are not terrible but there is a very slight gap where the guns fit in. There is a PE ring that goes around the base of the guns. They might look better once that is added and they are painted up. If not they can be removed and replaced with the Trumpeter gun upgrades. Although their version of the blast bags are almost twice the length of these ones. They are growing on me as I keep looking at them though.
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The hull is complete except for a few ladders and bits that will be added once the model is nearing completion. I reckon the mix I have made up for the upper hull is very close to the Home Fleet grey used on the ship. The degaussing cable is visible above the props and has not disappeared as I was worried it would do once painted. The model is now bolted firmly on the baseboard and I can work on the decks and superstructures without the need to touch the hull.
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The hull repainted. I did not have enough of the Tamiya neutral grey to make a good mix. But I did have a number of different Vallejo greys from previous models. They where far to light to really look authentic. But I mixed them with some black and a candy racing blue also from Vallejo. I have manage to mix just over 200mls and that has been decanted into 50mls jars. So if I have another accident which I almost certainly will I won't loose most of the paint. I think I have come up with a better colour than the neutral grey I was originally painting the hull. Not quite as dark as I would have liked but looks good with the dark grey bottom. I also remembered why I prefer The Vallejo colours the are so good. Excellent coverage and all round better paints to work with. The black boot line is Tamiya lacquer paint. This is very good paint and covers well. It dries very fast. But looks good. It looks lighter than it is in the photo because of the flash on the camera.
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I did the same working on Titanic.Only I managed to drop a pair of pliers on the stern railings.
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This is how the model looks at present. I have lost around half of the approximately 200 mls I had mixed.I have a number of grey paints. So I may redo the upper hull and mix another batch and share it between some 50mls pots I have.
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To say I am a tadge miffed is an understatement. I have the hull almost complete. I was tidying up the boot line and knocked the paint jar over. Very lucky that most of the paint that went on the model is on the bottom of the hull. But because I made a mix of two different greys and added some blue to get the colour right, I don't know what the mix was. And there won't be enough to paint for all the deck structures and fittings. If it was a smaller model I would just start again from scratch and buy some more paint and make up another mix. Just hope I can get the mix right when I can afford to buy some more paint.
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Thanks,I will paint the shafts the same color as the bottom as recommended on the web site. Which will be dark grey. The color scheme is also based on information from the web site,whitch is the best available at this time.
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Two coats of primer on. It's a lighter shade of grey than the kit colour. Takes a lot of paint on that hull. I was worried it would hide the degaussing cable to much. But it actually makes it stand out more. Need to leave it overnight now and then a rub down with a very fine wet or dry sheet and maybe a final coat of primer before starting the painting.
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So true. I dread to think how much Amazon have made out of me over the years in paints.
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I'm adding rigols above the smaller portholes. These are part of the MK1 kit porthole covers.
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Received my paints this morning. Dark grey lower hull and neutral grey upper hull and superstructures. The LP25 is a brown lacquer paint for the cortisine deck and concrete colour for the semtex deck, with wooden deck tan for the deck colours. I usually buy all my paints through Amazon prime. When I put all these in the basket it came to just over £193 with around £9 in savings. I was about to break them down into two orders and buy half this month the rest next month. Before doing so I decided to check if they where sold elsewhere, to find out that Amazon are putting a huge mark up price on them. I found and brought them from Emodels. Total price £67. A saving of over £120. never will I buy paint from Amazon again.
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Port side degaussing cable fitted. Just needs a bit of tidying up. I followed the anatomy of a ship diagram more than the instructions that came with the PE. Good job I did because the part that is attached to the hull that the cable goes over is not shown in the PE instruction sheet. It was better to glue the cable to the anchor fairing before attaching it to get it correct. The fairing looks a lot better now than the clump of plastic that sat there. Looking at the photos on the web site I have probably made it to neat as it looks a right mess in reality. The picture from the book is of the Starboard side. But I reckon I have followed the run of the cable pretty much as it looks on the ship. Just a shame it will be mostly lost once the hull is painted. If you have the patience with adding PE it so worth the investment in a good upgrade set.
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The hull is ready for priming and painting. All the structures on the deck are dry fitted. I added the guns so I could get an idea of how large the model will be. The bottom of the hull has been sanded with wet and dry to remove all the seams. I have reduced the armour plating as recommended on the HMS Hood website. It is not as thick as it was now and looks a lot sleeker. I have fitted the first 2 lengths of degaussing cable. It is a bit more time consuming then I expected. But will improve the look of the hull so much better then the moulded strip that represented the same part. All the port holes have been drilled out and I have the port hole rims from the MK1 kit. They have the rigols on top again as mentioned needing to be added on the website. The smaller ones do not have any of these. But there are so many parts that I will try to remove the rigols to add to them. They will also be glazed. The gun barrels are held in place with blu tack. They will eventually be replaced with white metal ones. The propellers are held in place on their own. The odd looking funnel colour is the replacement resin one.
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Small update. I gave it my best on those tiny slivers of PE for the anchor fairings. But they where just to small and after the second one flew out of the tweezers I decided to use the plastic rod to make the supports. Which has come out just fine. They look strange on the hull. That's because they are held in place with a bit of blue tac to get an idea of how they will look. Once painted and glued in place they should look OK. They certainly change the look of the bow without having the thick plastic moulds. Also one bit of advice on the HMS Hood web site was to drill out the stern anchor hole. The diagram is from the Anatomy of the ship book and I drilled the hole through the deck at an angle. I also found an anchor amongst all the bits I keep from various kits that I never complete. It looks quite good although it may be out of scale.
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