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Nek0

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Everything posted by Nek0

  1. Thank you very much ! I can't work as much as I would like on the model and it's real frustration, but it progresses. I don't want to show pictures until I make some real upgrade, but I will come back when there is something interesting to show.
  2. Hello Marc ! As usual it's a real pleasure to look at your work. At this time, the rudder hole was rectangular, not round. So the rudder rudder head did not pass through the hole but only the rod. The purpose of the carvings was only decorative.
  3. Thanks ! Marc, I'm only planking the other side, exact same thing I did with tribord. Not very interesting but I hope I can show real improvement before christmas.
  4. Oh ! I almost forgot ! I can post some pictures of a carpenter I painted a few weeks ago. It's a resin 3D printed work by Bernard Huc, a man on the french forum "marine et modélisme d'arsenal", and he was kind enough to give me a 1/72 carpenter. Here is the thing.
  5. 😂😂 I don't want to post pictures for a few pieces of wood glued, but I swear the next photos are coming soon. Thank you Vic !!
  6. Thank you guys ! the next instalment is at last being made, the build has resumed ! I'm done with my side project (took me much more time than I thought) and I'm back on the SR. Can't wait to show you some progress.
  7. Hello Dan, excuse me for not having answered you... Yes it's a little Vader, I have a 1/72 Skywalker family ! But no stormtrooper to help me, too bad.
  8. Oh, I did not even saw the last messages, sorry ! Thank you all for your interest. I wish you all the best for this new year. My life reached a balance in the first months of 2018, I have the time to work in my workshop again ! I did not work on the SR because I wanted to finish a sideproject before. It's nearly done so I will be back with the SR in a few days, for my greatest pleasure. And yes it was very frustrating not to work on my model but I had tough times trying to do everything at the same time but it's ok now ! I made the right choices and I'm back. Thanks !!
  9. Hello Marc ! To me it's a huge improvement. But beware of the last gunport, the bottom is too high, and not in line with the others. I wish you all the best for 2018, best regards, Marc
  10. Thank you for your patience. I'm very busy with work for the last couple of weeks but it should calm down soon. I will come back when I can. By the way, I wish you all a very happy new year !
  11. Thank you all for such kind words, I put all my heart and will in this build, I take the time to make things as good as I can, and it's a nice reward to see that you like my work, I'm honored and it's pushing me forward to do the next steps as good as the previous ones. It's a very tough and painstaking work, very demanding in time and very rigorous. Encouragements are welcome !! Victor, in fact I'm very slow at work, and I'm alone ! My little boy is now 2 1/2 years, it's too young to be productive ! I even had to stop working on the SR for two years because of him, my job, and my martial arts gym. I only came back to the workshop a few weeks ago, in september. So I hope the build will now go on again ! Anyway thank you for your words that have great meaning to me. I really hope you will like the next steps !! Marc, there are some flaws, but only I know where they are ! If you visit me eventually I will show you, but hopefully these are minor flaws... Indeed the sheerline is quite curved. I love these 3/4 views, where you can see the beauty of these curves. It seems much more linear in a side view, but the period drawings often shows 3/4 views. But I listened to your advice, (anyway that was something I had planed to do) and revised, not the top sheerline but the middle sheerline and dropped it a little more. (less than two mm, and it makes a difference) Here are the last pictures at this day, I did not post them earlier because of my job tooking me much time the last couple of days. Hope you will like them. The neon lights of the workshop make the ship a little bit darker than she is.
  12. I'm back for the following pictures. Today I show the very boring step of planking the hull. One have to be very patient and very precise in the assembly of the different pieces to achieve a good result. At first I drew the planking on the hull to be sure it looks good. Then I drew the frame so I can place the nails where they should be. And the began the very long process of the planking ! At last I dyed the waterline with ebony color, which is not black but a very good looking dark brown. Hope you like it !!!
  13. Hello Marc !! I will try my best to answer these questions, as well as those in the PM. You have to think now what should be the final aspect of your model. Like you I love the wood, I feel it's an organic and warm material, and I like it to be unpainted. When you build this way, it exists "conventions" or "habits" that are approved but don't represent the reality of a ship, but show the method of construction. It's the case for the nails, iron or treenails, that don't really show on a real model. They don't show because, as you mentionned, nails are iron, and iron rusts. So the nails were put down 1/4 of an inch (6 mm) into the planking and covered with mastic. And if you look closely to the hull, you should see the mastic, but not the nails ! (cf HMS Victory's hull) So, you can choose to represent a natural wooden version of a ship, and put the nails but it will be for intellectual purpose only and not a sincere representation of the real ship. It's what I do. Or you can choose to paint your model for a faithful vision of the ship. But in this case, you should keep in mind that the "nails" or mastic dots should be really really inconspicuous, or even invisible at a 1/100 scale. Also, if nowadays we like the natural wood, it was not the case in the XVIIe century, they liked vivid colours. (the more vivid the more expensive...) It is generally admitted that the first SR was black, blue, white, and "belly of the doe" with golden linings. Concerning the "gold", it was gold. In the XVIIe, there was still enough money to use real gold on the prestigious ships. In fact, only the ships with names with royal or religious meanings were golden. (such as "Soleil Royal", "Royal Louis", or "St Philippe", "St Esprit"...) But ships with others names were painted with yellow of Naples. (such as "L'Ambitieux", "Le Téméraire", "L’orgueilleux"...) So if you would like to represent what the ship really was, you should use a golden paint. But if you choose to represent a natural wooden ship, indeed I think it's better to use some yellow ochre. At last of course you do what you want, blue or even red with yellow ochre mouldings maybe, it's your ship ! You can do whatever you think it's the best, but I like to say that we have to know what we are doing, and WHY we are doing it, so we can argue and justify our choices. Good luck my friend !
  14. Thank you !! Victor Yancovitch, in fact I know your work from many years, and it's one of my favorite. I like to get the detail done as correct as I can, but I try to always think of the overall aspect of the finished model. Your models are a source of inspiration from this point of view. Perfect proportions, perfect curves, great harmony of colours, excellent carvings that perfectly merge with the rest of the ships, and incredibly realistic and poetic "in situation" pictures... Your work is one that I have in mind when I think of the final impression/feeling that I would like to achieve with my SR. Hervé Sasso posted a few pictures of your work in a french forum in 2011 and I was stunned. Below are some pictures of your models that I particularly love.
  15. Thank you ! So, I suppose the important point about a one hundred and four guns first rate warship is... the guns ! Here is what I did for the 36 gauge guns. At first, we had the opportunity Michel Saunier and I to work with Alexey Baranov, an ukrainian based craftsman, that could mold us the guns. Indeed, the guns of Le Soleil Royal were in bronze, not iron. It means they were prestigious pieces that were highly decorated. One of these guns still exist nowadays and is displayed in a french town called Le Croisic. In fact, it is a gun recovered from the wreck of the second Soleil Royal, but it may have belonged to the first one. So Michel and I send the documents to Alexey with our specifications and Alex did a marvelous job, 1/48 for Michel and 1/72 for me, by using the method of lost wax. The question was, let these guns in a "new bronze" shape, or weather them with a verdigris patina ? I chose (so did Michel) a verdigris patina, because of some informations found in period books such as "La Varende: Tourville en son temps" that says "admirable pieces made of green bronze" and "it was not in the usage to scrub them to make the oxidation disappear". At last, I did not make the guns but the painting is my personnal touch. (And I searched for a loooooong loong time to get the correct color, using an aerograph, very diluted lavis, and a final layer of protective oil) At first, let's have a look at the gun of Le Croisic. (don't look at the carriage which is a modern reconstitution and is completely false...)
  16. Hello Marc ! Good work on these anchor linings ! As we said earlier in the XVIIe century there was probably no treenails at all, but even later in the XVIIIe century, treenails/iron bolts was only for the lively works. Dead works should only receive iron bolts whatever layout you choose. What you're doing for the bolts and washers is quite impressive at this scale....
  17. Hello Cedric ! Thank you for your appreciation on my plans, I have to say I'm also impressed by what you're doing on La Reyne, and I can't wait to see the first pictures of the build !! Concerning the nails, the size of the head is 1/5 of the thickness of the piece of wood, for a std planking. For the wales, in the XVIIe century, nails had semi round heads, for a decorative purpose. They were called "orange head nails" (clous à tête d'orange). I don't know if there is a rule for the diameter of these semi round heads, I used the monograph of the Ambitieux as a guide... But as they are bigger than the std nails, it only take one nail per member... Since in the XVIIe century ships had alternate bulkheads, it would give something like this. I have no information about the bottom of the hull. We have some measurements such as -and I will write it in french because these are some very specific words and I don't know them in english, thanks if someone can translate- "le creux, la distance étrave - étambot, la longueur quille au sol, la quête et la hauteur de l'étambot, l'emplacement du fort, la largeur max et la largeur à la lisse d'Hourdy, le fait que comme La Reyne il ne soit pas ou peu frégaté..." But no further information on the waterlines, or "the shape" of the hull. So I did what I liked, studying other ships of the same time. I used the monograph of L'Ambitieux as a guide, but I gave my Soleil Royal less cheeks.
  18. I'm glad it is of some interest for you. Gaetan, it's a great example of good carvings with a rotary tool, but as you wrote I suppose it's a matter of personal choice and preferences. Marc, I still sometimes use rotary tools too when there is a big outer excess, but I would not call it a "carving step".
  19. And here comes the second Tourville, made with chisels. While not perfect, I like it better. (the calfs were too big, so they were reduced in the last picture)
  20. Here is my first admiral Tourville, made with rotary tools. The proportions are ok, but the wood surface is quite everage and overall, the global aspect I find it's not satisfaying.
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