el cid

Here's an unusual one, Marine painting with Hippos and Efelumps.
Up river from the last one Konigsberg in her Lair.
watercolour 16" x 12"   HM ships Severn and Mersey maneuver into position in the Rufiji River in East Africa during the action against the German Light Cruiser Konigsberg in WW1

I call this 'Leading the Way'
jim

Thanks for commenting. I joined in 1958 and left in 1968, just as they were coming into RN service. I did however work with a fair number of A/C from the cartoon. Sea Hawk, Sea Venom, all mrks  of Gannets.  Scimitar, Sea Vixem, and Buccaneer. Helicopters Dragonfly Wasp Whirlwind Wessex 
. Now I just paint them.
jim 

Another a/c related painting Cam Ranh Bay, Vietnam 
Seaplane tender USS Currytuck hoists a P5M Martin Marlin of VP-48 aboard for servicing, while another takes off.
USCGC Half Moon in the distance and LST, USS Washtenaw County as depot for small craft.
jim

Not ships today, but certainly 'Naval'
Fleet Air Arm Phantom about to refuel from a Buccaneer 
a 'poster' type cartoon I did for the Centenary of British Naval Aviation.
jim  

Two small ones  7" X 5"
Portsmouth Dockyard, a bit before my time.
jim 

Some more Square Riggers. Both paintings are on A3 16" X 10" paper
jim

Thanks Nils, here are another couple of beauties
Printz Eugen Along with Hipper in a Norwegian Fjord

Jim

Hi guys, being retired I can paint more or less when I want (subject to domestic chore from 'she who must be obeyed). I normally paint for about 3 to 4 hrs in the afternoo, probably 2/3 times a week.
The Belfast pic started about 1.50pm, and I took the photo about 5pm, I'll probably have an other half hour fixing bits , the after funnel top is wrong, and horizon on the right needs lifting a bit. The longest painting I have done, was three afternoons and was a diptych of  'the Tail o' the Bank' on the river Clyde .
see pictures.
jim

This afternoons effort 26/12/43Belfast illuminates Scharnhorst for Duke of York off the North Cape. w/c 23" X 16"

Thankyou Nils. Here is one you might like.
SMS Thuringen and a typical Torpedo boat
Jim

Here are some from a series of vignettes , small watercolour painting in the centre with pencil sketches around. 
A3 size approx 15" X 10"
jim

Thank you both for commenting, I probably have about a thousand, good bad and what ever.
here you are Nick. Recognise this place?. Reserve Fleet and redundend, waiting for scraping ships. At the back of Portsmouth Harbour. HMS Vanguard  running aground at the 'Still and West' while being taken away for scrap.
 

Special commission For an old gentleman who sailed in her when he was a boy, ME!. 19/02/57 to 10/05/57 Cabin Boy. Wage £12 per month 'London Merchant' steaming up the Thames.
jim

It could be any number of things.
 
1. If you're starting at the keel, shaping the Garboard Strake (the first one that butts to the keel) is very important. It's different for every ship, and especially on bluff bowed ones with rounded hulls (18th century for example). The top edge (furthest from the keel) should be straight, shape the edge that butts against the keel. The forward end of this plank will finish with a sharp point - that's OK. All other planks should be no less than half their width at the narrowest point.
 
2. Bear in mind that there are virtually NO runs of planks that are a single width for most of their length (depending again on the shape of the hull - older ships have more taper than. say, Clippers). They will need tapering for a LOT more distance than you have been doing so far.
 
3. Don't attempt to lay a single plank the length of the hull. It's much easier to lay them in the correct scale length - between 20 and 30 scale feet. Kit bulkheads are usually too far apart to be too critical with these lengths, just go to the nearest one or add extra bulkheads or filler blocks in the bow and stern.
 
4. Start in the middle of the ship for each run. The planks usually don't need much of a taper in the middle, if any. Bend the plank over the top of the one already fitted to gauge how much will need to be removed from the BOTTOM edge until it gets to half-width. A Stealer will need to start from that point. Shape your plank and glue it in. Leave the stealer until you have fitted the next plank.
 
5. A good trick is to temporarily fit a plank about every 5 or 6 planks apart for the full length of the hull,without laterally bending them. Measure the distance between the TOPS of the planks at each bulkhead to see how much they will have to be tapered at that point. Mark the bulkheads, and divide the measurement by the number of planks to get the width of each one. If you hit the marks when you get that far you will know you're on track.
 
6. Thicker planks (0.6mm or more) will need to be edge-bevelled as they curve vertically to avoid gaps.
 
7. Always dry-fit each plank and reshape it until you are satisfied with the fit before reaching for the glue. If it's shaped and bent correctly you hardly need to clamp it other than to hold it flush to the bulkheads until the glue sets. It goes without saying that the bulkheads should be properly Faired before starting any planking.
 
Take a look at how I did the planking on my Norfolk Sloop to get some ideas. I do a "plank by plank" description in that build log, it won't apply to any other ship but the general method is the same.
 
  Danny

"Gathered 3 threads and twisted clockwise until they wanted to kink, and tucked it in my hand until I had all 3 twisted to the kink point, laid them together and from the end twisted counter clock wise, had what I needed. With the addition of some more hands or holding devices you can make rope without a rope walk".
 
This is the same general process for I use for making up "Flemish twist" bowstrings, although I can't imagine starting out with thread.  Archers also serve the center portions of their bowstrings.  Not sure how ship modelers begin and end their servings, but this link provides an elegant (IMHO) method used for bowstrings.  Perhaps of some use to others (and I apologize if this is old news).
 
Keith
 
   
 

"Gathered 3 threads and twisted clockwise until they wanted to kink, and tucked it in my hand until I had all 3 twisted to the kink point, laid them together and from the end twisted counter clock wise, had what I needed. With the addition of some more hands or holding devices you can make rope without a rope walk".
 
This is the same general process for I use for making up "Flemish twist" bowstrings, although I can't imagine starting out with thread.  Archers also serve the center portions of their bowstrings.  Not sure how ship modelers begin and end their servings, but this link provides an elegant (IMHO) method used for bowstrings.  Perhaps of some use to others (and I apologize if this is old news).
 
Keith
 
   
 

I have always been interested in Ships and maritime history, and did spells in the British Merchant Navy and Royal Navy. I have built models most of my life ( not the really serious ones like on here ) but I always had great pleasure building them.  As well as model making, I have always  had an interest in art, well, marine art really, and do a lot of painting, especially now I've retired. I don't consider my self an Artist, more a ship painter. I do it for my own pleasure, and get as much pleasure researching the subject as I do painting them.
Her are a few of my paintings, please feel free to comment. Jim
 
1 Convoy Rescue ship passing. Liberty ship   2. Envoy class rescue Tug  3. Death of. windjammer Flamburgh Head with Rocket Rescue Team
 

Thanks Jason, I've had lots of practice. I try to keep away from the Ship Portrait type of painting, if possible I like to tell a story. Here are some more
1.  HMS Hood ( no not that one ) coaling at Portsmouth, and early Submarine and Gun Boat.
2.  Master Shipwright. Ship building at Bucklers Hard.
3.  Stepping the Fore Mast with a Sheer Hulk.
 

Battle for Grand Port, Mauritius (we lost) although shortly after this the British took Mauritius from the French
Google for details if interested 
14" X 10" watercolour
jim

Three square riggers
1  Fortuna.     2. Moshula and  Hougomont  3 Rajore
it would be nice to have a bit of interaction.
 Jim 

Thank you Mark, thing is, galleries are not that keen to exhibit my type of paintings. You really have to have an interest in the sea and ships. This one for example isn't every ones cup of Tea. I called it 'Keeping The Few Flying' featuring HMCS CHILLIWACK.
Jim 

Thanks for commenting Allan. Here's three more .
1 pursuit
2. Self Maintainence 
3. Age of Enlightenment
 

Good afternoon, all.  It has been a while since my last posting. The light is at the end of the tunnel for the Sopwith build, but I was held short by some upsetting news. My dad passed away on the 22nd (Sept) after a prolonged and horrible battle against cancer. He was 82. He lived in Houston to make matters even more complicated. Houston is a mess as they rebuild and clean up all the debris from the flooding. There are a lot of displaced people. Dad's service was very nice. I'll post a shot of him here.... This build is for him, the guy who marveled at all the ship building and airplanes throughout the years, and supported them all, from the first model to getting all my pilot ratings. He was a good guy. 
 
The Sopwith: I have completed the cable runs for the ailerons, though not tied them to the control stick just yet. I need to let the cable stretch out more before committing to the final tie-off. Talking about a having a single point of failure.... the cable is ONE run from stick to lower right wing pulley to bottom right aileron to top right aileron to right front wing pulley through the entire top wing's front, to the left pulley to the left top aileron to the bottom left aileron to the front left pulley along the front of the left wing and to the stick. YIKES.  Images attached:
Running the aileron cable through the front of the lower right wing using tweezers.
A view from under the cockpit of the plane at all the control cables getting to the stick. The aileron cables are unattached and pulled off to the side.
Detail of the aileron cable coming from the wing's leading edge to the pulley that redirects it to the aileron horn and attachment point.
A view of the whole plane held in place so I can get to the underside of the cabling. Looks precarious!!!  
 
Best to All,
~john
 
 
 

Hi Friends:
After a little less than a year I finally finished my Baltimore Pride II. This was my first ship without sails and I showed it as if I were in a dry dock, a different view of all my other models.  Here some pic´s:
Saludos, Karl