Doug McKenzie

Alan, Thanks for your comments! I used Ships-in-Bottles by Don Hubbard and some youtube videos for my instruction. It is my first ship in a bottle and it is my first ship model to such a small scale. The hardest part, of course, is doing the spars and rigging to scale which is the point of the whole effort. The running rigging already in place will have to be replaced with some new stuff that I just got. Presumably you'll see that in the next post. I've also never made a point of sharing my mistakes the way I have on this blog. Those lovely thin masts have broken 5 times so far but CA glue (thick and medium) have always come to the rescue. Thanks again for your interest, Doug PS the 1:8 sailing 'model' was the dream of a 12 year old building his first wooden shipmodel (Model Shipways Young America) 65 years ago - talk about a labor of love.

This will be a short posting. The three lowest yards have been mounted using the same technique: A fine wire is wrapped around the mast, crimped and glued. That wire is threaded through a hole in the yard and it is bent to prevent the yard from coming off. This allows the yard to rotate for entry into the bottle and then rotated back to the horozontal position. The upper and lower topsail yards have a tiny block of wood between them at their centers and the pivot hole is drilled in that block of wood. This was necessary because they are both metal. The lower yard and the upper topsail yard have lifts which pass through athrawtship holes in the mast. Without these holes the yards would not be able to rotate as described above. I haven't figured out yet how to let the topgallant and the royal yards rotate with their lifts yet because the mast is way too thin to take a hole.

Pic 1 shows the mainmast folded down and in the neck of the bottle. There appears to be plenty of room for the foremast and its yards (thank heavens!) Pic 2 shows a few new things: 1) A block of wood fastened to the bottom of the hull which allows it to be clamped - I'm using a clamp designed for a drill press. All the instructions that I've seen use a block like this but I didn't use it until I finally saw how useful it is for parts of the rigging process. 2) The foremast is complete (but not hinged) and 3) the head gear is started. Oh and 4) you can see a sailor leaning against the port bulwark rail. The bowsprit is wood but the jibboom and martingale are 1mm brass rod that have been flattened so that 0.50mm holes can be drilled in them Pic 3. I've rigged a single bobstay rather than the correct double because I just could not figure out how to get the second one in there and it might look too cluttered anyway. The martingale stays are in but I won't be installing any head stays below the jibboom - they'll just end at the jibboom after they have been used to raise the foremast. I haven't figured out what to do with the guys yet because they may look too bulky and I can't fit whisker booms because they won't fit in the neck Lastly for this post is the yards Pic 4. Wood is used for the fore yard but wire is used for the upper four yards as they would be just too fragile if made from wood. I'll taper the fore yard but the other four will have to be straight.

If you did leave MSW then it really is odd since both myself and ccoyle experienced the same problem. Maybe you did something before you left that initiated a save?

James did you completely leave MSW or just go to a different window. If you did leave MSW then it really is odd since both myself and ccoyle experienced the same problem. Maybe you did something before you left that initiated a save?

Thanks all! I found some on Amazon - I don't know why I couldn't find this the first time I was looking.

I have only been able to find thread down to 0.3mm and I'm working on a Leon-in-a-bottle model at 1:300 which requires some 0.1mm tan thread for running rigging. Does anyone know of a source for thread this fine? I've attached a picture that shows the peak halyards as 0.3mm black and you can see that it is way to heavy. The hull is about 4" long. Thanks in advance. Doug

Pic 1 shows the hinged mast vertical. Pic 2 shows it folded down. Pic 3 shows the hinge - wire through the base of the mast bent down along the mast and inserted into two holes in the deck just aft of the gallows, Pic 4 shows the shrouds in place. These are all one piece of thread wrapped around the hull and passing through one relatively large hole just above the trestle-trees between the lower mast and the topmast. The two backstays will be placed correctly later. The peak halyards pose a pretty big problem because they are too thick, 0.30mm, they should be 0.10mm. In addition, they should be tan instead of black. I am going to ask one of the forums for help on finding finer thread because this just doesn't look right.

Folks, It used to be that I could start to build a posting and then quit MSW and when I came back my work was saved. I could continue to build the posting and then eventially submit it. Now my work is deleted. Is there some way I can have the old functionality back or is this a permenant change? Thanks Doug

The main top, consisting of trestle-trees and cross-trees along with the cap (made of thread), is shown in Pic 1. Pic 2 shows most of the rigging for the mainmast as it will appear in the finished bottle. There are only two classes of rigging that are not included yet. One is the main lower shrouds which can't go on until the mast is hinged to the hull. The other is the fore braces. I haven't decided yet whether to put the braces on the mainmast before hinging or after. To have another 10 braces hanging around before they can be fastened to their respective yards seems to be too messy - we'll see. I also haven't decided whether to build the foremast next with its five yards or whether to hinge the mainmast and rig the main lower shrouds and the backstay next.

We are starting with the mainmast for two reasons -First, It is thinner than the foremast and therefore a good way to test construction tecniques. The second reason to start with the mainmast is that it folds down independent of the foremast whereas the foremast folds down on top of the mainmast. I sanded a 3/32" x 3/32" piece strip of balsa down to the 1.6mm size at the parners using a sanding stick. My gut says that balsa wood soaked in very thin CA glue will be a) Easy to size and taper and b) Also have plenty of strength, so that is my first try. That same guy Marty suggested using the thin CA to make the card bulwarks strong so we just adapted the idea to the spars. Having tapered the lower main with a square cross section down to 1mm at the head, I realized that drilling the various holes might be easier if I kept the square cross section. Unfortunately, this increases the visual diameter by 41% (the diagonal of the square being the new visual diameter. So what I'm going to try is leaving rougly the top half square, breaking the corners for a bit below and in the lowest part, rounding it off. Making the main topmast the same way and joing them at the doubling gives Pic 2 which is before soaking the mast in CA glue. The toothpick is 1.8 mm in diameter (5/64'). After the very thin CA is applied and sanded, the nice yellow color seems appropriate (Pic 3) for the final appearance of the spars. The glue brought up a lot of the balsa fiber and so a good fine sanding was needed because I imagine that to raise the masts in the bottle easily, we don't want the rigging to be catching on rough fibers on any of the spars. Next we'll be constructing the main top and then start rigging the mainmast.

The 4 parts of the hull, that will be inserted into the bottle separately, have been prepared with toothpicks to be properly aligned when glued together - Pic 1. . The toothpicks, of course, need to be trimmed! Credit for this solution goes to my friend Marty Nusbaum - I didn't want to drill down from the top and mar the roofs but I couldn't drill from the bottom because the model wouldn't sit securly on the drill press. Marty pointed out that if I drilled down from the top, I could just fill the holes (which I did with toothpick plugs) and paint over! Work was delayed about 2 weeks until this problem was solved. The main fife rail has been added along with the gallows (to support the main staysail boom) - Pic 2). The heads of the bilge pumps have also been added (black, just forward of the gallows). And the wheel shelter has been added with two little life buoy rings painted on the aft bulkhead. The 'Leon' name plate is on the transom - (Pic 3). And, lastly, a moderately successful attempt has been made to show the wale emphasizing the lovely sheer curve - (Pic 4). A thin wire + glue was used. I've included the dime not so much to show scale but to make excuses for the not-exactly perfect wale. The hull is now complete and we can begin work on the spars and rigging - oh boy, I can only hope that lady fortune will be with us when we try to produce scale spars!

The windlass supports were so out of scale I just had to improve them. In the last post, those supports are about 23" thick. The best estimates I could make from various drawings was that they would be somewhere between 6" and 12" thick. So I sanded them down to about 12". Next we have the wheel-shelter and the main fife-rail and the hull will be complete.

For starters, I won't be fixing the anchor after bulkhead - I've just ignored it!. In the meantime, the wash-strake around the anchor deck, capstan, catheads, pawl bitt and anchor windless have all been added - Pic 1

The aft house is complete. As is the taffrail and the 3 hatches Pic1 . 2 errors have been found: The first is that a painted door was made on the forward bulkhead of the aft house and this is incorrect - there probably was no door so that has been removed. The second error is a bit more difficult to fix. The anchor deck has been cut as if there was an aft bulkhead, Referring to my research notes for the 4' Leon model, however, this is not correct in two ways: first, there was probably no bulkhead and second, the after edge of the anchor deck was not straight but rather followed the angle of the catheads. Future posts will document how this error was corrected - you know, once I figure out how to correct it!