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Doug McKenzie

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    New Jersey, USA

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  1. Frank and Sailor1234567890 Frank - Thank you very much - I'm getting some of that glue that you recommend and will use it with sawdust from a sander.. If it works nicely I'll try to use an xacto knife to scratch out another rectangle that is less gross.. Sailor1234567890 - Thanks for the correct names I particularly like Navel Pipes. I'll edit my post. As far as the shape and position of the lumber hatch, I am following an 1880 sheer plan of Leon so maybe Leon is just different from most (as her diagonal hanging knees are).
  2. All the 'pipe' work is now done i.e. the port bilge pump pipe, both the navel pipes (the pipes that lead the anchor chain down from the deck to the top of the anchor chain lockers) and both hawse pipes. The picture below shows the bilge pump pipes and the navel pipes. The relatively steep slope of the navel pipes facilitates the smooth movement of the chain when it comes up on deck. The next picture shows the deck plates where the pipes come through the deck. These are 1" thick plates which scale down to about 1/64" To work with these thin pieces of wood I flooded one side with super thin CA to provide some strength. This permitted the 3/16" holes to be drilled as well as making it possible to enlarge the drilled holes with round files without splitting the wood.. For reasons, that I do not understand, the hawse pipes leave the hull about 2’ forward of where they should, so they actually touch the stem. This occurred during filing rather than the drilling of the holes but I didn't notice it until it was too late. I don’t see any way to fix this so the mistake will just stay with the model. The hull flange was formed with two brass tubes telescoping around the main tube. The main tube is 10” in diameter. I used soft solder since I still haven’t bitten the silver solder bullet. The angles both at the hull and deck were obtained by using the vertical belt sander and seemingly a never-ending progression of Does it fit? No, sand a little more. Repeat. The process was so inelegant that I haven’t bothered to show any photos of the process. I was pleased that from the bow, the two hawse pipes at least look as if they are nearly mirror images. On the deck, the hawse pipes end in deck plates that are 1” thick just like the deck plates on the bilge pump pipes. In all three pictures, the lumber hatch, the 2’ x 8’ rectangle, is clearly seen just above the water line. The scratched outline is supposed to represent the closed lumber hatch which I’ve been told is practically invisible on a real ship. A poor job was done here and I do not know how to make it look better so I guess that, like the horizontal position of the hawse pipe, it will just stay with the model. Any thoughts on how to clean this up would be most appreciated.
  3. The 6 kevels (aka but rarely used, cavel, cavil) have been installed with one mooring port. A kevel is a large, generally horizontal timber bolted to two adjacent bulwark stanchions providing a very strong belaying point for large lines such as mooring lines. On Leon this is 9" x 9" following Underhill. You can see the two iron pins (1 1/2" diameter) which could be used for smaller mooring lines and in some cases running rigging. To the left of the kevel is an inboard view of a mooring port. I'm probably going to model a mooring line to show how the kevel is actually used. Underhill shows 6 kevels in his plans. I understand the 2 at the bow and the two towards the stern but I do not understand the 2 at midships. There is not even mooring ports for them. Oh well, I included them regardless. The inboard view of the mooring port also shows the wooden chock inserted between the adjacent bulwark stanchion to ensure that the thin bulwark planking does not fail under strain. The outboard view of the mooring port, in the next picture, shows the results of two techniques from Underhill. The first is to let the thickness of the brass tubing serve as the flange of the port. The second is to make the port first from brass tubing and then fashion the hole in the wood to fit the port. The second is 'obvious' but I needed to be told! In the picture below, the starboard blackened bilge pump pipe is shown descending from the deck into the bilge. The next picture shows the treatment of the bilge pump pipe on the deck. I tried to find authentic material on the 'flange' but Tosti's Young America was the only one I found so I more or less followed his.
  4. Folks, it was all my mistake ! I had inadvertently clicked the button 'Ignore this Topic' on McKenzie's Leon and that means it doesn't show up in searches. Reversing that toggle switch fixed everything. Thanks for your help - Doug
  5. Curiouser and curiouser, James, I also get 3 hits now but mckenzie's leon is still absent from the list!
  6. Fellow MSW users, When I used to run a search on 'leon mckenzie' two items would be presented - Beekmann's and my own (McKenzie's) Scratch Build Logs. For some reason a few weeks ago something changed - It still says 2 items were found but only one, Beekmann;s, is shown - The screen shot of the search result is shown below. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks Doug
  7. Here is the completed main hatch. A member of the crew (5' tall) helps to understand the scale. The last 4 hatch covers (nearest the crew member) are wired together and not glued in place because I'm thinking of leaving 2 or 3 or 4 covers off in the spirit of maximum visibility, but I haven't decided yet. This photo shows all three hatches completed along with the completed rudder and the pawl bitt (in the bow). I used plastic striping for the pintles and gudgeons. Since that provides no strength, I pinned the rudder to the stern post at the lowest pintle / gudgeon pair. The fine wire (red and black) ends in a connector that allows the battery and the switch for the lights to be left off the ship except when being used. Before framing the quarter deck and anchor deck, Underhill recommends fitting the cavels, the hawse pipes, the eyes for the forestay. I also want to make a correction at this time. The bulwark planking for the quarter deck is supposed to be thicker then the bulwark planking in the waist creating a slight ledge which is actually quite visible. I need to double plank the quarter deck bulwark to achieve this effect.
  8. Allan, This is one of the more creative suggestions that I've seen. Unfortunately, I have already selected my 'unusual' modelling task - a Norwegian Windmill Pump (see photo). For several years I was afraid I wouldn't be able to model this thing on Brigantine Leon because I was pretty sure that it would only have been installed after she had been cut down to a schooner rig. Recently, however, I have learned that Leon was never cut down to a schooner rig and therefore she had the windmill pump as a brigantine. I'm going to model it so that it can be removed and displayed along side the ship since it is pretty dramatic!. Thanks for an excellent competing suggestion, though. Doug
  9. John, Thanks I didn't want to do something and have some one say "that's not the way they did it," So thanks again! Doug
  10. I am building a 1 to 48 scale model of the Briganteen Leon with much of the interior visible I would like to leave off some of the hatch covers from the main hatch but I do not know where to stack the ones I remove. If we imagine that they want to take a look see into the hold they might just remove 3 covers. Would they stack them on top of the covers not removed or on the deck next to the hatch. Silly question I know but i have no experience with these hatches. Thanks
  11. Before getting to the hatches, I just wanted to mention that I tried to make the pintle and gudgeons out of brass strips and failed completely. I've done very little metal work over the years and it shows! Bending the stuff cleanly was impossible for me. This probably means that I'll be doing all the rigging ironwork with paper strips unless someone can guide me to a way of learning how to do the metal work. Now on to the hatches. The photo shows the three stages of creating the hatches. The main hatch {temporarily installed) shows the completed coaming. The smallest hatch (the fore hatch) shows ledges installed to support the hatch boards (aka hatch covers). The aft hatch (installed) shows 3 of 4 hatch boards in place. Notice the single planks starboard of the main hatch and aft hatch so that the hatches are completely supported by deck planks. The original sheer plan shows the fore-aft position of each of the hatches, but it does not show the width. I could have used Underhill's proportions but instead I used his actual widths. As I said somewhere earlier, the sheer plan's placement of the hatches is 2' - 3' forward of Underhill's placements. Now we can take a look at the hatch boards in the aft hatch. We are using 3" thick boards roughly 12" wide which are first cut to length to fit the coaming snugly - shown in the top most board in the photo. Then a 6" hole is drilled at each end but not all the way through. I drilled these holes in a drill press with the hatch boards resting directly on the top of the metal jaws of the vise. I drilled gently until the bit just touched the metal. There was a small hole at the bottom that I filled with wood putty - shown in the middle board in the photo . Then a blackened brass wire was inserted into a hole drilled in the edge of the hatch board from one side to the other passing through the middle of the 6" hole - shown in the lower board. The wire simulates a 1/2" iron bar which is easily grabbed in the 6" hole. I'm not sure what I'm going to work on next.
  12. In this post, we show the waterway and an adjacent plank (called by the DNV survey Inner Waterway Plank #2). Some of the information in the survey is confusing - it mentions an Exterior Waterway Plank (I have no idea what this is) , the Covering Board is given as 6 3/4" wide (much narrower than a conventional covering board) and there is no mention of a margin plank. The Inner Waterway Plank #1 is 8" thick x 12" wide and thus can be taken as THE waterway. The Inner Waterway Plank #2 is 5" thick x 6" wide - no obvious name comes to mind for this. To my eye, the 12" wide waterway seems quite large so I made a quick comparison to two other ships - the full rigged ship, Young America, and the three masted schooner, CA Thayer. The ratio of the waterway width to the beam on the weather deck is 2.6% for YA and 2.7% for CAT. Leon's ratio is 3.6% - a third larger. This is probably another indication that Colin Archer built his ships strong since the waterway was a significant timber. It can be seen that I notched the waterway around the stanchions. This gives the impression of a covering board without actually including one. I did this because I couldn't make sense of the information on the covering board in the survey. Any comments on the way I handled this will be warmly welcome! Next, I'll be fitting the three hatches.
  13. Wefalck, Thanks for the thoughts! The whole descriptor for top timbers was " Futtock by covering board (top timber)" [This is a location for giving the dimensions of the frame] which doesn't really answer your question but I think according to typical practice this suggests that the top timbers were the stanchions. passing up through the covering board. Your suggestion about the quarter round rabbet allowing the 2nd inner waterway plank to act as a margin plank is creative although the carpentry of intersection would be pretty complex I think because joggling would be necessary and cutting a receiving jog in the 'margin plank' could be very tricky. And then a valid question would be why introduce the complexity. Hey, I just had a thought - what if they just don't mention the margin plank that would be inboard of the 2nd inner waterway plank. The survey might not mention it because it is not a structural timber. Oh well! In any event I'm not willing to do the jogging! Your comment about "most of the planks are sitting on the deck-beams and certainly not on the deck-planking" is of course true. I should have mentioned that the only reason I'm putting the two inner waterway planks on the decking is for simplicity and ease of execution for example the notches for the stanchions are less deep and hence easier to cut and have snug. I tried to find the FRIIS-PEDERSEN books but was not successful either on the internet or amazon. Any help here? I'm including a drawing of what I think I'm going to do in the spirit of " play around with the cross-sections of the planks to see how the puzzle might fit together." The covering board is, I'm going to say, sort of being represented by the top surface of the inner waterway plank #1. The Outer waterway plank is being ignored because I haven't the foggiest idea of what it is. I'd love to hear your thoughts on whether what I'm planning (shown in the diagram) will have the right 'feel'. #184 posts Location New Jersey, USA Report post #1 Posted yesterday at 03:02 AM
  14. Allan et. al. In reference to where dovetailing the deck beams ends into the clamp was used, Norway is another place. The 1880 DNV classification rules even make it sound as if dovetailing can be used instead of knees (seems pretty unlikely, but who knows!)- "All deck beams to be securely fastened to the sides of the vessel by knees, either hanging or lodging, OR [emphasis is mine] by being dovetailed or doweled into a shelf; the inner overlaying stringer and waterway being let into the beam." I'm not clear on what it all means, but it seemed interesting. Doug
  15. Folks, I have an 1880 DNV classification survey for brigantine Leon and I can't interpret some of it and would love help: Items identified in the survey: Covering board - 3 1/4" thick x 6 3/4" wide Outer waterway plank - 7 1/2" thick x 5" wide Inner waterway plank, 1st plank - 8" thick x 12" wide Inner waterway plank, 2nd plank - 5" thick x 6" wide Deck planks - 3" thick x 6" wide Top timbers - 9" sided x 6 3/4" moulded My thoughts and questions: What is an outer waterway plank? I imagine that the Inner waterway plank, 1st plank is a normal waterway. I imagine that the Inner waterway plank, 2nd plank is a binding strake. I don't think it can be a margin plank because I think those have to be the same thickness as the deck planking. The width of the covering board is the same dimension as the top timbers (moulded)- does this mean the 'covering board' is little segments meant to fill the spaces between the top timbers? How can a normal covering board be this narrow? No margin plank is mentioned - how do the deck planks terminate? In the absence of additional info, I am probably going to put in a waterway of 5" thick x 18 3/4" wide - 5" thick (not 8") because the waterway will be sitting on top of the deck planks rather than on the deck beams. 18 3/4" wide (not 12") because I'll notch out for the top timbers and let the waterway fill the gaps out to the inside of the bulwark planking. I'll also install a binding strake of 2" thick x 6" wide - 2" thick (not 5") because the waterway will be sitting on top of the deck planks rather than on the deck beams. This arrangement seems to me to be the easiest to execute and still give the right overall impression of what this area of the ship might have looked like. I would really appreciate any comments or suggestions on how to model this based on the survey information. Thanks, Doug

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