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Doug McKenzie

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  1. The two lower masts are installed, held in-place with wedges that are covered with the mast coats. In order to make the mast coats look like canvas a little fine material was varnished over the imitation mast coat made of wood. The two lower masts were installed so that the chain plates for the shrouds could be angled accurately. The backstay chain plates will similarly need the top masts to be installed. I had given a lot of thought, over a period of months, as to how I was going to fabricate the deadeye strops, the chain plates and the chain plate cleats (aka bac
  2. The steeve of the jibboom / bowsprit and the rake of the masts (along with sheer) are some of the first impressions that an observer gets of a model sailing ship. I noticed almost immediately that the jibboom in Underhill’s plans seemed a lot flatter than the jibboom in the well-known photo of Leon. I figured I could do some research and get a better idea of what these parameters really were. The photo below shows the model with masts done except for some paraphernalia. The steeve and rakes are selected based on the research documented below. The picture was taken so that the c
  3. I've started on the spars beginning with the bowsprit and jibboom. I don't yet feel up to the metal work for the bands so I used Chartpak Graphic Art Tape (matte) from Amazon. I have 4 width - 1/32" 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" (full size 1.5", 3", 4.5", 6"). The adhesive is not all that strong when wrapped so I use CA also. If a band has eyes, an eye is used to tack the end of the tape. If there are no eyes, mini nails (3/32" long) from Micro-Mark are used. Two sizes of eyebolts are used. The most common is 1/32" (full size 1.5") and less common 1/16" (full scale 3"). Both come from Bluej
  4. All the scroll work is finished - first shown is the quarter board, then the trailing board and finally the transom. The only new technique was typing the name and home port on tracing paper and then adding the actual scroll work. When gluing the finished work to the hull the tracing paper should have a very thin layer of glue. Then the wood becomes visible as seen on the transom. If this is not done then the tracing paper itself is seen as on the quarter board. Thanks again to David for his suggestion of string and gesso!
  5. Thanks GrandpaPhil, I think this modeling must really be a labor of love otherwise why would we ( graciously? ) accept all the failed experiments. Meanwhile, I've painted the scrollwork black because of the drawing that Beckman posted on December 14, 2018 from Aust-Agder-Museum. I'll post more pictures when I finish all the scrollwork \ Thanks again for the affirmation,, Doug
  6. At this point I figured that if I'm going to do the scroll work I better do it now. There was no way I was going to carve the scroll work or paint it so I asked if anyone would be willing to take on a commission of doing the carving for me. What I got instead was great advice from David Antscherl, aka druxey. Instead of carving out the wood, he said, why not build up the filigree with something. He recommended trying string and gesso. I don't have the skill to paint the gesso freehand so I used kite string coated with 4 coats of gesso. The first picture shows the kite string
  7. Some miscellaneous items on the deck - First is the spanker sheets. These are a problem because the double block shackled to the deck would be very difficult to install after the wheel box is in place. and even more difficult would be threading the sheet itself through the sheaves of that block. Therefore the whole tackle is assembled and installed. The fife rail and bilge pumps are next. The hand-bars for the bilge pump are included so that the operation of the pump is clear. The anchor operation is shown next. The anchor chain can be seen enter
  8. I need ornamentation for a 1:48 model. Relatively simple as it is for a brigantine built in 1880. I'd be happy to discuss.
  9. Ed, I also was pretty flabbergasted by the difference between Underhill's stem and the true stem. It is really odd since the photo shows the correct profile very clearly. As to 'other details of the plan' the good news is that the 1880 construction sheer plan agrees with the photo. I've read that these construction plans are not always trustworthy and yet, in this case, the stem shape is accurately reproduced.. And we know from previous posts that Underhill's deck layout is pretty close to the layout shown in the 1880 sheer plan so apparently we can be satisfied with the deck paraphernali
  10. This posting includes some miscellaneous items as well as the beginning results of comparing the model to the picture. Having purchased all the miniature rope that I'll need from Syren, I realized that I needed to do some organizing. So first, I wound all the different sizes on 2" sections of 2" cardboard roller. Then, I stacked these 'spools' on two poles - one for the 7 sizes of standing rigging and the other for the 4 sizes of running rigging - voila! well organized with a small footprint. The little bucket with little sticks of all sizes and types of wood has also greatly reduced clut
  11. Ed, Great idea to start Leon again after all where are you going to find a more beautiful ship. If you do start her again and if your planning to show the interior then I'll send you the 1880 DNV survey which will tell you the correct number of frames, the correct sided dimension used for all the frames and the correct moulded dimensions of the mid-ship frame (and a LOT more). I had to use my 'curve' method for the moulded dimensions because I didn't find the survey until I was finished most of the planking. And of course be sure to start a log! I totally agree with Longridge.
  12. Hi Ed, You know, you are correct - I am very satisfied. For the first year or so I bemoaned my limited 'micro carpentry' skills - other builders seemed to have joints that you couldn't see, surfaces that were ultra smooth etc etc. But more recently when I look at her I see something that's almost alive even with her imperfections and I love it! As far as frames go there are two separate issues. The one I think you are asking about is referred to as the moulded dimension i.e. outside to inside. And yes you are correct that this dimension is thickest at the bottom (at the fl
  13. The Pin Rails and Taffrail have been added. Both the belaying pins and the taffrail pedestals come from Model Expo. I haven't decided yet whether to paint the pins brown or keep them as raw brass.
  14. The aft house is now completed. It was constructed and trimmed pretty much identically with the mid-ship house so few construction photos are shown. In the following photo, the 4 walls of the aft house are shown tucked into the quarterdeck. Then the completed aft house is shown first facing aft and then facing forward. The planked quarterdeck is next followed by the completed aft house nestled into the quarterdeck. None of the internals of the aft house are being shown whereas some of the internals are shown of the mid-ship house. The reason fo
  15. Et Al - Thanks for your creative contributions. I take this moment to announce that I am going to remove the mast hoops / mast bands / muffler belts / whatmacallit / gronicles from the heels of both the foremast and the main mast. My motivation for this is Bob's comment "I've seen my share of mast heels, a few in larger vessels and I've never seen one with a metal band around them" In addition no one else mentions ever having seen them. Since Leon is unlikely to have had a coaked mast, the rings are now history - they were my second exercise in silver soldering so they still had value.
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