canoe21

I'm sorry to see this Draggz.......
Do you now have puppy for Christmas dinner ????
Just joking my friend !
A good lesson for you, CLOSE the door when you are leaving !!!!!!!!!
 
I have write Santa a letter that you really want to have the Mare Nostrum kit as a present.......
When you gonna build her again, you have more skills with that .
So stay away for a hour of two out of the hobby room and continue with the other builds !!!!!!
 
Sjors

I wanted to post pictures a few day's ago and when I see the pictures......
I don't want to do that !
A few all ready saying it and now I'm telling you this also.
Pictures don't lie !!!!!!!
So,I removed everything on the bow section and start all over again.
Here is the end result of that.
 
Sjors
 
 
 

Now I have to clean up this "rat's nest".

I know many of you master modelers think I'm a Phillistine for this unorthodox approach, but for me, ship modeling is to create an illusion of this great fighting ship and not an exact replica as she was built. I do not have the skills to do that. 99.999% of the people viewing my model when it's done will never know of these tricks. I apologize for all you highly skilled ship builders, but I know my limitations and it will be many models and years before I ever even approach your superior skills. I really do appreciate your tips and suggestions though. Please keep them coming. I need your support.

First part of the bow assembly is now complete with exception of the blue 2mm strips on the tiberhead side edges which will be tomorrow nights task.
 
Turned out to be quite a tricky task, and if I had my time again I would do it differently, but hindsight is a wonderful ability which I do not have!
In the end its not turned out too bad.
 



 
 

here a bit of an update  i have add the bulwarks in place now and did some sanding on them there looking good just a bit more still to put the back on next here some pic of what i got done
 
 
 

Good evening everyone.  
 
Well, I finished the ship's 3rd boat, the Pinnace and it sits alongside its mother ship waiting for orders.  The oars are out and it's ready to go.  I believe this finally competes my Victory except for covering it which I hope will be next week at the latest.  I intend to dust it with one of  those electronic dust removers that comes compressed in a can.  I hope I don't blow all of the fittings away.  Take care everyone and have a wonderful evening,
Jerry

More Photos.. and a little extra     
 
Eamonn
 
PS the paint work has to be tidied up around the Gun Ports a little, and the outside of the Channels isn't in place yet so don't be too hard on me 

Hi Folks.. Photo Update this time !!
 
Well the 'Channel' Deadeyes (Lower Deadeyes ??) and Chains are all in place now, they are nuttin' special to write home about but are merely OK.. put it this way if I thought I could do much better I would rip them out and begin again       Hmmmm possibly I'm being a little too hard on them as they look grand.. ('Grand' is another Irishism by the way.. not as good as 'Deadly' but way better than 'Brutal'.. though a synonym of 'Brutal' is 'Savage' which is better that 'Deadly'.. go figure!   .. OK you are all caught up now on Irishisms..   ) Anyhoo they are Grand !!
I'm afraid I lost the light to take a better photo, but sure it's Grand isn't it.. !!   you can just make out the Deadeyes and some of the Chains.. the Deadeye strops were chemically blackened as I didn't paint them prior to installing the Deadeyes  and would have made a mess trying to apply paint afterwards !
 
That's All For Now, Thanks for Stopping By..
 
Slainte.
 
Eamonn
 

As I said before, “SHE wants GOLD”.  Now I come to the cove that should be gold.  I looked into gold leaf but not only is it expensive but I don’t need near that much.  Yellow paint isn’t the same and I’ve never seen a gold paint that came close.  Besides with my hands I could never paint a straight line.  So here comes brass.  All I have to do is fasten a strip of brass . . . but I read topics here saying how do you fasten brass to wood?  There are probably many ways but here is how I did it.
 
The stripe goes in the cove line or in my case where the thin bulwark strake and the wide strake meet. 
 

 
My plan was to solder .188” of the tip of several .024” brass plank nails to a .032” brass rod.  This is still up in the bulwark area so fasteners had to be placed where the stations are.  I drilled .020” holes into the stations.  I measured the hole locations and soldered the nail tips at the same distances and found out that if you are off by even that little the brass rod doesn’t fit properly. 
 
On to plan B.  I placed the nail tips in the holes leaving about .06” exposed.  Then I soldered on the brass rod and pushed it tight against the wood.  I then filed a flat on the exposed part of the brass to catch the light.
 
Thanks for the help Nils.
 
Bob
 

Drilling for the nail tips.
 

A nail tip pressed in, waiting for solder.
 

Rod soldered to nail tip
 

Popeye, I wish that would work.  The hawsehole goes through the bulwarks almost parallel to the keel, so the outside shape will have to be an oval.  You can also see the wood that will have to be added above the hawsehole.
 
Bob
 

First off I need to say thank you to all those who look in and click on the like button.  It’s so nice to log on to MSW and see that red signal that says someone likes what you said or did. Again thank you.
 
Now to get on with the boat.  The planking is almost done.  A little more clean-up in the stern and mount the transom and keel.  Also the planksheer so I can mount the stanchions and the bulwarks and then paint.  Wow, I shouldn’t list things like that it makes it sound like a lot of work.  Anyway here’s the pictures.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Lawrence...Thanks for the slide show information. I'll definitely look into smile Box as you recommended.  Take care,  Jerry

Well...here's my shroud and deadeye factory.
 
I made five  jigs out out of paperclips and bent them to hold the upper and lower deadeyes, then wove the line in the appropriate pattern, then painted them with a thinned 50/50 mixture of PVA glue. Then I cut shrouds to the different lengths needed for th different masts and CA glued them with rough seizings by simply wrapping thin line. Not exactly the super neat seizings you all make, but they're okay. I made the brass clip out of brass straight pins by bending them on a steel rod the size of the inner deadeye circumference. They have a "tail" that I pushed into a pre-drilled hole and I will finish the underside with a fake chainplate made of brass that I bought via the internet from an outfit in Maine.

ok i got bow bulkhead all sanded now still got the front to do but i will get there in time .next will to be to plank the main deck and put that on . so here are some pic for ya to see where iam at 
 
 

here is a pic of  what thay say to do 
 
 
 

 

ok here in the pic i have one of the planks on its 0.3 from the frames that what thay say to do it at so here it is .so far so good
 
 
 

here it is just got to let it dry now
 
 
 

here we are again i have done some more planking so far for my exp in the planking stage its getting better with time. at front of the boat still need work to be done . i have done some sanding to it  so far all came out really well i think here are some pic of the build let me know. what u all think if u see something that i have done wrong ples let me know thank u
 
 

jee.......I didn't even get to the good part    I was going to show it,  but Gibbs had other ideas......he wanted to go in the living room.   I told him it was after 10:00 PM.........he might as well go back and lay with Kevin,  but he wouldn't have it.   you really ought to see him......it would make you laugh.   I ended up feeding his Frankenstein.  so here it is.........
 
safe to say that I have broken away from the Holiday build......but it doesn't mean I didn't do anything with it { I have a small update for that build too}.   after I was finished doing the rough draft on the reel,  I looked at the cap rails......yup.....I need to get them on the build.   the fore end of the starboard side rail was rounded off and slotted to fit over the extension I had fitted in the fore deck overhang.  I had also notched where it would run by the stanchion.
 

 

 
filler was used to take care of the imperfection at the tip.   I had to fix it at the stern,  because it ended up inwards too far.   I did the port side the same way.
 

 
after adding three bulwark posts to the transom bulwark,  the rail was cemented in place.   then it was trimmed,  and rounded to mimic the rest of the rail work
 

 

 
so........now it just the portholes that is holding back the paint work.   soon......my friends......very soon!
 
thanks to all of you who hit the like button.......And to those who commented! 

the dilemma over wood thickness is over........it's not much of a picture,  but I ended up gluing two pieces of flat stock together,   to get the blank I needed.
 

 
it was left this way for a few days.   while I was working on the reels for the Andrea Gail,  I did this at the same time.   the parts were traced out.
 

 
rather than try to use the scroll saw {which is out in the garage........and the truck is stuffed in there because of the snow storm}..........I used my trusty box cutter to cut them out.   they turned out a little rougher than I would have liked,  but with a little clean up,  they should be OK to use.  if not......I still have enough to make another set.   I have the first one sanded.
 

 
I got three more to go.......
 

 
clutter..............gotta love it!   

Hello Everyone....
 
I'm still waiting for the display case to be finished.  If the manufacturer is correct then I'll see it in about 2 weeks,  In the meantime Victory is happily accumulating dust as she sits on her table patiently waiting for her cover.  I did have a trophy plate made and it is mounted at the bottom of the cradle also waiting for he acrylic cover.  I miss the frequent postings and look forward to another build one of these days.  My best to everyone and to those who celebrate...Happy Thanksgiving!!
Best,
Jerry

Shipwrights,
 
A little more progress on Arethusa - masts and spars.  I've completed the basic shaping of the lower masts, upper masts, and the booms.  In this photo, top to bottom, are the main mast, the fore mast, the main topmast, the fore topmast, the main boom, the fore boom, and the jumbo boom.  Note the scale on the bottom of the green cutting mat in inches.  The grid squares are 0.5 inches per side.  The main and fore masts are just slightly greater in diameter than 3/8 inch.  All were formed from square stock bass wood stock.

This closer in photo shows the peculiar shaping of Gloucester schooner spars.  While circular in cross section, they are decidedly not axisymmetric.  The edge of the spar adjacent the sail is straight.  The opposing side is tapered.  The maximum diameter occurs 2/3 distance from the jaws (at the mast) to the tip.  My spars shown still contain a little excess material at each end of the spar.  They are shown with their jaw ends to the right in the picture.

 
[these were taken with my camera phone - quickie photos on the dining table]
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

It has been some time since my last update and with a little time off of my feet I've been able to do little things here and there on Arethusa.
 
I have begun making masts....first time in oh, about 5 years!  I'm following my method I wrote about in the downloads section some years ago.
 
Here are some photos showing the major steps.  My only process change has been to use a plane to remove material instead of the rasp/file originally shown.




 
On the hull - I touched up the anti-fouling paint and hull sides, made some little scroll art at the bow names, and applied Dullcoat over the outer hull.  It is the first time I've used Dullcoat and I am happy with the results.  The shininess of the acrylic paint is gone and hull details are more clearly visible.  One odd and funny (to me!) aspect of the photos - you may see what looks like scupper run-off 'weathering'.  It isn't.  What you are seeing are reflections from clear, highly glossily packing tape I used to seal the 'work stand' box. 



 
On the deck I finished painting the checker boards.  I've deviated from my 'pristine' modeling approach by applying a semi-transparent paint layer to those details and the deck battens.  I think it gives appearance of worn painted boards and battens.  Also worked on were attached the windlass brakes and connecting links.  Luckily I hadn't glued those down yet - I found one of my soldered joints to have broken.




 
And a final photo showing the two lower masts.  The masts have been tapered and cut to length, only requiring flats and rebates where a host of spar related hardware goes.

 
Cheers,
 
Elia