canoe21

Thanks so much Rusty, Lawrence and the "likes".
 
Lawrence, I chose this kit because it had laser cut framing. I have no power tools and don't wish to cut frames by hand. With the exception of the framing, I basically scratch built almost everything. I also substituted wood from Wood Project Source for that supplied in the kit. All of that is a long way of saying that the kit suited my needs because of the framing, but if that isn't a consideration, I would go for the timbering set only. In answer to your last question, the kit contained no materials for masting and rigging, and the blocks and rigging line were all from Syren.
 
Bob

I can’t believe a month has gone by without posting progress.  It seems to have been a month filled with small steps that suddenly arrived at a major milestone.
 
The next job was to make the Rear Fenders. Again, the kit provides sticky aluminium strips for this, but I decided to replace these with polished stainless steel, complete with 00-90 screws. I first created a template for the screw holes in CAD and printed this onto sticky label paper. The 0.5mm thick stainless steel was ripped to width by temporarily sticking it with double sided tape to a carrier of scrap timber and passing it through by Byrnes saw. The template was then attached to the stainless steel blank and the 1/16” screw holes drilled on the drill press. The ends of the piece were marked by scribing through the template and then cutting by hand with small hack saw.
 


 
The piece was then polished up prior to removal from the carrier and installation on the hull. Double sided “attachment tape” from MACK products was used to install the fenders. Holes were then drilled into the hull, using the pre-drilled fender holes as locators, and the 00-90 screws epoxied in place using 15 minute cure epoxy.
 
A similar technique for the screws was used on the cutwater, the difference being that the main cutwater piece itself was also epoxied in place. Here is a close up of the cutwater – although the photo shows that it has suffered a little from handling and needs another polish-up.
 


 
I then installed the rub rails. These run the full length of the hull at the sheer, with a second, partial one just above the water line that runs from the rear fenders forwards for about 8 inches. Instead of using the kit provided material for these, I used another MACK products item, which was very easy and quick to apply. It comes with a self-adhesive backing, although mine had suffered from heat and/or packing and postage, and was basically unusable. I stripped the remains of the adhesive off and replaced it with a narrow band of attachment tape, which achieve the same outcome.
 
It was then time to prepare for the maiden voyage in the domestic testing facility. In preparation for testing, lithium grease was packed into the shaft stuffing tube and the rudder tube, and the running gear re-attached. This photo shows the brass prop and rudder in place (both also in need of a polish). You can also see here the brass strut that I made to replace the solid plastic skeg to support the stuffing box/shaft.
 


 
I also decided that it was time to start installing the interior gear prior to installing the engine hatches, before space got too limited. This started with running the wiring for the bow and stern lights, through the conduit that I had previously installed. Here’s a couple of overall shots prior to tank-testing. You can see the ends of the wires for the lights in these shots, as well as the rub rails.
 

 


 
And finally, we got to the tank test – she floats!  And she doesn’t leak!
 


 
Next up will be to finish installing all of the electrics prior to fixing the hatches in place and commencing on the final trim pieces. We’re getting close!

It has been a long time since I’ve been able to get back into the shipyard. Work and family commitments, as well as a new puppy in the house have all conspired against making progress with the build. While I've managed to stay in touch with others' builds, I haven't had anything to post in my own, until now...
 
Finally, this weekend I managed to find some shipyard time. Decided to use it to do the job I’ve been putting off for a while – polishing the hull. Not a particularly difficult job, though admittedly tedious. I worked my way through 9 grades of wet sanding, starting at 1,500 grit and going all the way through to 12,000 grit before finishing with some liquid polish (Micro-gloss liquid abrasive). (Special thanks to Keith (Amfibius) for putting me on to the Micro-mesh sandpaper).
 
The end result, while not perfect, is a huge improvement. I have managed to get rid of most (not all) of the “orange peel” effect and have achieved a nice high-gloss finish without going to the “boat-in-an-ice-cube” look.  It’s very difficult to take pictures to show the high gloss finish, but here’s what I got.
 


 


 
I wasn’t happy with the second attempt at my cutwater, so went back and re-sanded, re-polished, and re-chromed the original version. I'm happy with that now, so the next job will be to fit that to the hull. Hopefully, it won't be so long between posts now.

Finally got around to completing the wheel today. I painted the hub assembly, trim piece and wheel rim with Vallejo Ivory, sprayed through the airbrush, while the Horn Ring and Throttle Lever are chrome plated. After test fitting all parts, I glued them in place with epoxy – no going back now!
 
Here is the completed wheel and steering shaft assembly:
 

 
And another view:
 
 
 
 
 
And here it is side-by-side with the kit-provided part:
 
 

 
 
And finally, here are a few “glam” shots showing it in place in the boat:
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
I decided I wasn’t happy with the cutwater, so have re-made it this weekend as well. Pics to follow once chrome plating is complete.

Hi Grant,
 
Simply stunning mate.
 
Dan is right, take her to the Canberra show and recieve and accept the plaudits owed to you.
 
She really is a work of art.
 
mobbsie

Thanks for all the kind comments and likes folks. 
 
It seems a long time since the last update, but progress has been steady with all of the final fittings. I re-made a number of the fittings: The Exhaust, Gas Cap, Rear Flag Pole Base, and Hatch Cover Handles. With all of these, the castings were useable, but the time and effort to clean up the flash and then polish and potentially re-plate them meant that it was easier to re-make them. All were made from brass and chrome plated on completion. I added some knurling to the lid of the Gas Cap just for some extra interest (and because I hadn’t used the knurling tool on my lathe yet).
 
The Fwd and Aft Flagpoles were turned on the lathe from walnut stock, after first drilling them to receive lighting wires and/or brass locator pins. Another fairly straight forward exercise that posed no particular problems. Both the flagpoles have been made removable to provide some protection during transit to and from the lake.
 
I had ordered some replacement cloth flags from BECC but was a little disappointed in the product when they arrived – they are only printed on one side. So I used the kit provided flags instead and the “client” is happy with these.
 
Once the final soldering of the lighting wires was completed and tested, it was time to present the completed boat to the “client” for provisional acceptance. She was delighted with the final product. All that remains now is sea trials prior to final acceptance. Given that a successful float test has already been completed in the domestic testing facility, sea trials may need to wait until the weather warms up a bit as the manual recovery system says he doesn’t wasn’t to go swimming just yet! 
 
With that, I’m calling DONE! 
 
Here are a few glam shots of the final product.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

sweet look'in boat Grant

Thanks Hamilton and welcome to the build - never too late for this party!
 
Another minor update of sorts. I had to re-visit the installation of the Engine Hatches as the hinge mounting failed. The hinges were initially epoxied to the hatches and then attached to the hatch frame with attachment tape (a type of double sided tape). The tape gave way, so I had to reconsider the whole setup. In the end, I made two shims from some scrap 3/64” thick Red-heart and epoxied these to the outboard side of the hinge flap. The shims were then epoxied to the hatch frame and held in place with map pins while the glue set. Once the pins were removed, I filled the holes with a few brass nails. Of course, the shims added just enough width to the hatch assemblies to prevent them from closing properly, so I then had to sand down the mating faces until the hatch would open and close properly. The photo below shows the completed “fix”, although touch up painting is still required.


 


 
I was then able to drill the holes for the 000-120 screws, which were then individually epoxied in place…..all 130 of them.  The heads of the screws were also aligned to the long axis of the trim piece, so that fore/aft trim pieces had screw heads aligned fore/aft, and athwartships trim pieces had screw heads aligned athwartships. It’s a little hard to see in the photo, but trust me…they are aligned!


 


 

And here’s an overall shot for perspective:


 

 
 

Thanks again for the kind comments and all the "likes".
 

A minor update today – the Engine Hatches have been installed. I diverted from the kit plans here. The kit provides for a single, one-piece hatch, that is to be removed for access to the engine compartment. I elected to make a two-piece hatch, hinged, as per the real boat. I also elected to make the trim pieces from stainless steel, rather than the sticky tape provided in the kit. The trim pieces have all been drilled to accept 000-120 screws, countersunk flush with the trim. I also installed two hatch stays to hold the hatches open just past 90-degress. For these, I used a product from MACK products.
 
Here is a picture of the trim in place, ready for the screw shaft holes to be drilled.
 


 
And this view shows the hatches in the open position, with the hatch stays visible at the forward end.
 


 
Although not perfect, I am happy enough to call this experiment a success. Next up, drilling 130 holes to accept the 000-120 screws and epoxying them in place.

Thanks for all the kind words and the "likes" folks.
 
Now that we’ve proved that she floats, it was time to (semi) permanently install the electrics and test functionality. I had previously built some racks to hold some of the gear, but it is still a very tight fit in that engine bay! Anyway, first up – testing the lights. I temporarily attached the bow and stern lights and gave all controls a test – all good!
 

 
Here’s a couple of close-up shots inside the engine bay. First the port side:
 

 
 
 
 
And the starboard side:
 

 
Although the motor/drive shaft and steering all worked, there was a considerable amount of radio interference from the motor, so I soldered in the three “optional” capacitors. That made a big difference. Here you can see them wired across the engine terminals:
 

 
 
 
The next job was to make the frames for the foot step-pads. Way back at the beginning of the build, I had some rubber stamps made up to use as inserts for a metal frame, rather than using the kit-provided cast parts. I made these by milling out the centre of some 2mm thick brass strip and then polishing and chrome plating it. It might be only a small job, but it took me most of the weekend to do this. Here is an overview of the step plates with the kit part provided for reference. In my custom built ones you can see the Chris Craft logo in the rubber.
 

 
And here is a shot with one temporarily placed on the boat:
 

 
As you can see, I’ve also drilled these to take 000-120 mounting screws. Some time ago, I orderd a gross (144) of these, along with the the 00-90 screws used on the cutwater and stern fenders. I will use the 000-120 on both the step plates and the engine hatch trim, so I spent quite some time individually plating 144 very small brass screws. Then I had another look at the number of screws on my engine hatch trim pieces….. it seems that my design calls for a total of 130 screws around the hatch trim, and I need a further 16 for the four step plates……total 146…..leaving me two screws short, even assuming the carpet monster doesn’t steal it’s fair share of them. The worst part is, that the postage for these cost more than the screws did and I didn’t fancy paying the better part of AUD $100 for a few extra screws. A little digging on the internet turned up some stainless steel screws of the same size. Although the individual cost was higher, the package size offered was smaller,  and the postage was only US $8.00 instead of US $40.00. I will hold off installing the step pads until the new screws arrive, just in case they look slightly different. I’ll use the existing bundle to install the hatch trims – coming up next.

As promised, the overall superstructure base:

Here's the front casement:

And the paddle wheel housing:

A little more detail on the aft end of the paddle house:
Looks like one of those floating hotels.
I glued the formers/bulkheads to the underside of the hull. Not very many.

And a closeup of the bow formers

 
This ship was built as a ram, although they couldn't get going fast enough to be effective. So, after I skin the hull, I have to make up the ram. Some of these parts are pretty curvy, so I'll be having fun keeping on top of the cut lines.
 
Thanks for following along.

You really do want that flat, don't you?

Well, a bit of an experiment. I glued the upper and lower decks together with the Scotch Positionable Mounting Adhesive. This glue is one step more forgiving than contact cement. I used it because I wanted to keep the decking flat; wood glue may cause the parts to warp. And I don't have to spray on any aerosol glues. The deck is resting comfortably, under a manila envelope and a 15" section of 100 pound rail (anvil and occasional paperweight). I'll be able to start some assembly later.

superbly done Peit!  you did a great job on something so small    I hate it too when close ups distort wires and such.....that and cameras can be too revealing.  you are definitely the go to man for subs 'round here     congratz my friend!

Thanks to all who hit the like button, much appreciated and thank you Denis and John for you comments.
 
Yes, I could make a diorama of sorts with that crane in tracks and a torpedo hanging on he hook. I already have the torpedo in scale 1:50, or even a mine in the same scale. They are right now laying on the O19 display board.
 
Okay, next detail John is actually the final few items to add to finish the build.
 
I added the antenna wires from the bow to the bridge, all periscopes and antenna mast and the little boarding ladder to starboard side. They store these things inside the sail and only attach them to the deck when needed. Actually, most everything is stored inside the sail or under the deck plates between the pressure hull and the deck. From chains, extra cables, spare torpedos and even a few cases of Heiniken beer. The O19 even stored a 5 man dinghy there.
 
After everything was checked and cleaned up I took the spray can to it and painted her in a flat dark grey. Now she looks like a submarine ready  for the hunt. Just a shame that she ran into that minefield.
 
I have picked a few photos to end this build with. I hope you like the result. Being this small and using a few close-ups you'll see some rough edges but most is due to close-up distortion.
 
This shows the O16 right after she was completed and still on my drafting table aka work bench. I temporarily placed the name plate in front of her.

 
For the fun of it and show the difference in scale with the O19, 1:350 vs 1:50

 
Port side view on the drafting table.

 
Yup, she is small!

 
Another comparison picture, the O16 in front of the O19 sail/conning tower.

 
The rest are taken outside with better light.





 
I incerted this photo of the actual O16 as comparison with the one above.

 
Due to the narrow display board I cemented the name plates on the ends. They are a too large to do it the traditional way.



 
Okay, this is it for this build. I really enjoyed it. It was challenging for me because I'm not used to kit building but I learned a few things. I am also honored having you come along and for your very kind words.
Next project is trying to build a diorama of the Young America clipper ship at sea at a scale of 1:3000. Wish me luck with this one and hope all y'all will come to visit.
 
Thanks again everyone and my co-captain Gwen and I wish all of you good health.
Until we see each other again, Cheers,

Thanks everyone for dropping in on my build.
 
It's time for an update, finally.  Now that the sail or conning tower has been cemented to the hull I can now cement the two AA Pom Poms to the con. I also cemented the two torpedo loading gantries and the deck gun to the model. My luck is holding put, no errors this time. I made small dimples in the deck where the gantry post are to be locate so the cement has something more to grab on to. The final positioning of them to 90 degrees to the deck will be done when I install the antenna wires.
I removed the deck railings from the PE sheet in anticipation to cementing them onto the deck. They needed a little dressing op, checking for proper fit. I was going to wait with that till another day but - - - -
Everything went so smooth and in less time then anticipated so I decided to cement the railings on.
 
Below are few pics of the progress and also some photos of them actual O16 for added clarification, and my O19 model.
 
The aft torpedo gantry is cemented on. I strapped the model to the board with some masking tape so I could handle it without fear of it dropping off.

 
The boatswain's mate Ivanna sleeping on the job right on top of my study material. Now I could tell her "you're fired."

 
Here we see both torpedo loading gantries installed, the AA Pom Poms, the deck gun and oh yeah, the forward antenna attaching braces. She's looking more like a sub ready for action. The deck railings are ready to be cemented on.

 
I may have mentioned that the AA guns can be retracted into airtight pressure buns. Here is a pic of my O19 model showing them retracted.

 
And here they are up and ready for action.

 
A was fortunate to be able to get copies of the original build drawing, courtesy of Remco. This shows how it was done. They used a hydraulic lift, simple.

 
Here is a photo of the actual 5.5 cm deck gun used.

 
A photo of the O16 at sea looking aft showing the deck gun, the antenna gantry on the bridge and deck railings.

 
You may be wondering what those rails are for in the deck. Well, the smart Dutch figured that at times they may not have access to shore facilities to load supplies or torpedoes. As with the O19 also loading the 40 mines. They made a little crane that could be bolted together. The tracks are U channels laying in their side and welded to the deck framing and the gantry has small steel dolly wheels that fit nicely in those tracks. I'm still contemplating to make a model of this and add it to my display board of the O19.

 
The deck railings are now ready to be cemented on.

 
Deck railings are cemented on.

 
A few more details to take care of like the periscopes and antenna mast and the antenna wires. After that I'll paint her a nice dark flat grey and place the Dutch national flag on the aft part of the con.  That should be close to final then.
 
Hope youns enjoy it.
 
Cheers,

First some good news though. My 6 month check at the dermatologist this morning showed no sign of melanoma cancer. I guess i am doing something right. He set me on an annual followup.
Okay, now for a small update. Well, small is relative. The following update took place over a few days, due to other chores and a goof-up on my part.
 
I cemented the extended AA gun position platforms to the deck of the con, the aerial antenna support bridge in the "bathtub" or bridge, the bow net cutters, the trim planes and gun deck railings. The last item I screwed up and had to remake them, was just not thinking
The pictures below will explain everything. Again, it's a good thing that Boris included an extra sheet of PE.
 
Here are the AA gun deck extensions cemented on. Ready for the railings.

 
Here I have preformed the railings - - not taking the platforms in.

 
Here we have the famous "oh @&$*&^" moment when I saw my dumb oversight. Soooooh - - back to the drawing board.

 
Here you see that I made a jig of the deck gun area for both the forward and aft decks. Bending the new railing pieces went off without a hitch.

 
The aft AA gun deck railing received the same treatment.

 
 Forward gun deck railing ready to be cemented on after a final adjustment.

 
Aft gun deck railing ready to be cemented on after minor adjustments.

 
Both railings cemented on.

 
The bow net cutters and trim planes cemented in place.

 
This is a photo of the actual O16 on the slipway showing the trim planes.

 
Another shot of the O16 bow with trim planes installed.

 
Sure hope you like it so far. More to come soon. The plan is to cement the sail or conning tower to the hull, cement the torpedo loading crane support frames and the deck cannon on.
 
Cheers,
 

Yes Craig, they were cramped for sure. I am not aware that trey had height limits for the crew. My father was 1.95 meter tall and lanky, just like me, although I am only 5 ft 8 or 1.76 meter tall. A few years ago I visited the USS Cod in Cleveland, Ohio with my grandson. We got a private tour by the director of the submarine museum, very nice. That boat is close 98% seaworthy, according to the director. That is the sub that came to the rescue of my father's former sub, Hr. Ms. O19.
From the stories I have read about the O19 crew rescued by the Cod in July 10 of 1945, she was rather spacious, compared to the Cod that is. As a young lad of 6 my father took me on board of the O19 in 1940, just before his promotion and I was in total awe over all the gauges, knobs and wheels. Of course to a small boy everything seemed spacious.
 
Being small, lanky and light weight I have no problems fitting in the "driver's" seat of general aviation aircraft. I have flown most everything from a single seat home-build airplane to the Boeing 757. The Beech King Air is a nice airplane and have flown its bigger cousin, the model 99 and 1900. It almost seems that when I strap myself into an airplane I become part of it. Actually, the DC-9, MD 80 are cramped in the cockpit and so are other commercial airplanes. When I managed and partly owned an aircraft repair facility in New Jersey most of my customers asked me to test fly their airplanes, plenty of free airtime, I loved it.
 
And here I am building model ships - - - and loving it. I'm done designing, fixing and flying them.
 
Cheers,

Another small update on the O16. Before tackling the railing on the con I wanted to finely cement the deck torpedo launcher doors to the hull. Instead of closing the launcher area off on both sides I cemented one closed and cemented the other door laying down so we can peek inside and see the launcher. I relity they fold down inboard to lay against stops on top of the pressure hull.
This was actually done in to time so I decided to complete the display board. I cut a piece of boxwood to 1/16 inch thick by 9 1/4 by 1 1/8 inch to cover my poplar base piece nicely. Glued and clamped it to set to cure overnight.
In the meantime I cut two 1/8 inch pins of bamboo to place the model on. Originally I thought to turn two mooring bollards to set the model on and actually started to make one on my Unimat lathe but on a visit to Hobby Lobby and browsing along the isles I found some really nice brass beads that would fit. Well, okay, not quite mooring bollards but it saved me a lot of time.
 
Today was a rainy day with T-storms, thus ideal to spend some time on the display board. I cleaned a little excess glue off, sanded it down and applied a coat of warm satin Colonial maple stain. Rubbed it in real good and applied a second coat on it and repeated step, let it dry.
I drilled two 1/8 inch holes into the bottom of the sub and when the stain dry enough to handle I also drilled two 1/8 inch holes into the display board at the appropriate places.  Glued the pins in, put the brass beads on and placed the O16 on it. I'm really happy with the way it looks.
 
If youns don't mind I like to add e few pics of the O16's interior as well.
 
Deck torpedo launcher door installed in the closed position, port side.

 
Deck torpedo launcher door installed in the open position, starboard side.

 
1/16 inch boxwood plank glued and clamped.

 
The finished display board.

 
Bamboo mounting pins installed with the brass beads on them.

 
The O16 temporarily placed on the board with the con also temporarily placed on her.

 
Forward torpedo room.

 
 
Crew quarters.

 
Officer's quarters.

 
Central control room on port side. This is located below the bridge inside the main hull.

 
Engine room.

Aft torpedo room with galley.

Enjoy.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Well friends, today I'll have a little update - - - finally. As shown in a previous post that I have started work on the "sail" or the conning tower and have added a few items to it. It may not seem like a lot but understand that I have many other non model building projects to do. 
What's shown in this update actually took place over a few days.
 
Okay, so I cemented the 6 doors to the sides of the lower part of the con and the handholds to the same sides as well as to the "bath tub" aka the bridge. As the CA was curing I also prepped both of the 40 mm AA guns but decided to wait with cementing them on till the railings were put on. I figure it is easier to put the railings on first, that way I have some maneuvering room. 
 
And in trying to remove one of the guns from it's mold base using a jeweler's saw, my holding hand slipped and knocked the barrel off. Rats - - grumble, grumble. Quickly with a pair of tweezers and a tiny drop of CA I managed to cement it back on. Hmmm, error numero duo but after carefully cleaning the excess cement off it should look acceptable, especially when painted.
 
Here are a few pics.
 
This shows the sail / con with the pertinent parts to be attached. That funky green strip on the bottom of then pic is a sanding stick I picked up at Hobby Lobby. It has a fine and a course side to it and is flexible. It worked really great. The nail clipper and tweezers are the other tools I used.

 
Here, on the starboard side, most of the handholds and doors have been cemented on. The one for the periscope tube housing is still to go on yet. The extra CA cement will be removed by scraping with a #11 blade and finished with that sanding stick.

 
Here is the port side.

 
The con seen from the top.

 
 
This is that poor little 40 mm AA gun with its broken off barrel.

 
Both AA guns side by side. The one on the right is the repaired one, ready to be dressed.

 
Here is one of tine two AA guns on the tip of my finger indicating its small size. Not in PE but resin.

 
This is it for now. Next will be the hand railings on the forward and rear parts of the con and cementing the two AA guns in place.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Okay folks a little trivia. This may be something not many people know, even the Dutch among us. If you have taken the time to visit my O19 build log or remember me showing the "blood vlag" of the O19, the O16 also had a "blood vlag." The real and original blood vlag of the O19 is on display on the USS Cod, which is moored in Cleveland, Ohio.
So, what is this "blood vlag" anyhow? The tradition goes back to the 17th Century Dutch fleet. It was traditionally a red flag with an arm holding a sword. It meant as a sign to the other ships that he is attacking and to follow.
This tradition has been abandoned by the surface fleet but not the submarine service. All boats have their own blood vlag or blood flag in English.
 
I like to show a replica of the O16 blood vlag and also a few pics with one on a painting.
Enjoy.
 
Replica of the O16 blood vlag

 
17th Century blood vlag

Blood vlag on a Dutch ship during the battle near Elseneur in the Sont between the Dutch and Swedish fleet, 8 November, 1658. Painting by Peter de Velde.

 

Thank yo Anton and Ken for your response and kind words.
 
Yes, Anton I remember your comments about your uncle Carel van Groeneveld who served on the K XVIII. I don't know whether I send you a photo of the crew and few pics with the K XVIII at sea. I like to do so here and if you already these then let this serve as a memorial to the folks here.
 
Hi Ken, welcome. Yes, Cox goes into a lot of detail, more so then any other historian. I have a draft from his book before it was published and a good section was left out of his final published book, which I have. In that missing section my father was mentioned by a survivor. No problem for me at this time, I know he didn't survive but his name lives on with me. When I am going to build the Java model I'll have lot more to tell.
 
The crew of the K XVIII, time unknown.

 
Hr. Ms. K XVIII approaching Soerabaja Naval base of the KM (Royal Navy, Netherlands)

 
Hr. Ms. K XVIII at sea.

Cheers,

Thank you Christian and JesseLee for your very kind words.
I did plan to post  the history of the O16 at the very start of this build log but did not have enough data until I stumbled on a very narrative. I edited it for punctuation and removed a few duplicate items. With your indulgent I want to share her story with you and hope to make this small build of her model a little more meaningful.
 
In this article you'll also read about her companion the Hr. Ms. K XVII. You may be wondering why the Dutch submarine navy would have two different classifications. The O designation was for boats in domestic and Atlantic waters. The K designation was for boats used in the Dutch East Indies colonies. In the Dutch language colony is spelled Kolonie, therefore the K. These boats had a much larger range and carried more fuel then compared with then O boats. However, this all changed beginning with the O16 and O19.
 
Here is a photo of the K XVII

 
The following is a Coogle map chart of the estimated mine fields discussed in the article

The history of the Submarine O16
28 Dec 1933: The keel of the O 16 is laid down at the Koninklijke.Maatdchappij. De Schelde shipyard in Vlissingen.
A new steel alloy was employed that was stronger and more ductile. It allowed for the first time to employ welding. This new technique also allowed the replacement of 49% of all riveting.
27 Jan 1936: O 16 is launched.
26 Oct 1936: O 16 is commissioned to the Royal Netherlands Navy.
11 Jan - 6 Apr 1937: O 16 makes a voyage to North America by way of a route via Horta, Bermuda, Norfolk and Washington during which Prof. Dr. F.A. Vening Meinesz, B.Sc. conducts gravity measurements. The O 16 returns via the Azores and Lisbon. The gravity measurements had to be broken off Professor Meinesz was put ashore at Lisbon and the O 16 was send to Gibraltar for convoy duties during the Spanish Civil War.
1939 - The O 16 leaves the Netherlands for the Dutch East Indies (now the Republic of Indonesia) under command of Luitenant ter Zee der 2de klasse (Commander) Louie Jan Jarman, attached to the submarine division in the Dutch East Indies. She arrived at the Royal Navy base in Soerabja on 4 January, 1940.
1940 - - 4 Jan 1940: O 16 collides with the destroyer escort Hr. Ms. Witte de With. No damage for the O 16 is documented, but the Witte de With has a damaged screw.
10 May 1940: Germany attacks the Netherlands.  The O16 together with the KXVII performed escort service between The East Indies and South Africa. 
15 Sep 1940: KXVII and O 16 depart from Tandjong Priok (Batavia/Jakarta). K XVII escorts the merchant SS Lematang, heading for Durban (South Africa), and O 16 escorts the tanker Olivia, which is heading for Lourenço Marques (Mozambique). The merchants are escorted because there are reports of a German raider operating in the area.
20 September, 1941 the O16 is under command of Luitenant ter Zee der 1ste klasse (Lieutenant Commander) Antonie Jacob Bussemaker
In November of 1941 both the O16 and KXVII were made available to the British Royal Navy to assist then in case of a Japanese attack on Malakka and Singapore.  Both boats departed Soerabaja on 15 November, 1941 for Singapore.
28 Nov 1941: KXVII and O 16 are ordered to Sambas (north-west Borneo). The boats are expected to arrive in the area on the 6th of December.
29 Nov 1941: KXVII and O 16 are ordered (#2 1129-0535) to 04º00N-104º30E (off Malacca) for a possible unexpected action. They are expected to remain unseen and proceed with a speed of 12 knots.
1 Dec 1941: All of the Dutch submarines of the of the 1st division were placed under direct British command for operational control and ordered to Singapore where they arrived early December of 1941.
6 Dec - 15 Dec 1941: KXVII and O 16 are ordered to patrol the South China Sea. Patrol area 7º30N-103ºE / 8ºN-103ºE. Several attacks are made.
7 Dec 1941: The USA declares war on Japan after Japanese forces attack Pearl Harbor. Approximately 7 hours after the attack the Netherlands also declares war on Japan.
7 Dec 1941: The CZM radios (#109 1207-2215) that "War with Japan has broken out".
8 Dec 1941 Two ALMR [(Alle Marine Radiostations) All Naval Radio Stations)] messages (#126 1208-533 and #127 1208-535) report details on enemy forces in the Gulf of Siam and off Kota Bharu.
8 Dec 1941: O 16 attacks the Japanese invasion forces that are invading Northeast Malaya.
9 Dec 1941:  C-in-C Eastern Fleet orders (#154 1413 9 Dec'41) Submarine Divisions and (O 16, K XVII, K XI, K XIII, K XII) to form a line N180ºE, distance between the submarines should be 20 miles. O 16 should be 40 miles South of the Poeloe Obi Light at 08º26'N-104º50'E. At Dec 10 at 23:30 MTG, but not sooner, the boats have to sail a general course of N260ºE between Kota Bharu, Malacca and Singora, Thailand. This is due to a large number of transports was spotted off the coast 05º30'N and 07º30'N (#156 1209-2045).
10 Dec 1941: O 16 damages the Japanese troopship Ayatosan Maru (9788 t) or Sakura Maru (7170 t). See also 12 Dec 1941.
12 Dec 1941: At midnight (not confirmed) the O 16 attacks several Japanese ships in the Bay of Soengei Patani (east coast of Malaya, and only 9m deep). The ships are torpedoed while the submarine is surfaced.
O 16 sinks the Japanese troopship Tosan Maru  (8666 t). Some source report the troopship as Tozan Maru, which is incorrect. One Japanese source reports the ship is attacked while at anchor, is grounded to prevent sinking, and is salvaged later. Tosan Maru was towed to Hong Kong in April 1942.
The Japanese Tosan Maru (Photo: © Collection Hasashi Noma)

O 16 sinks the Japanese troopship Asosan Maru (8812 t). One Japanese source reports the ship is attacked while at anchor, is grounded to prevent sinking, and is salvaged later.
O 16 sinks the Japanese troopship Kinka Maru (9306 t). One French source report the ships name as the 4980 t Kinkasan Maru. One Japanese source reports the ship is attacked while at anchor, is grounded to prevent sinking, and is salvaged later.
An unsuccessful attack by O 16 on Sakura Maru (7170t) is also reported. John Aldens book 'US Submarine attacks during WWII including Allied submarine attacks in the pacific theatre' reports that the attack on Sakura Maru is probably the same attacks as the attack on the Kinka Maru.
O 16 damages the Japanese troopship Ayatosan Maru (9788 t) or Ayata Maru. See also 10 Dec 1941.
Due to a serious shortage of ships later during the war, the vessels Tozan Maru, Asosan Maru, and Kinka Maru which were all sunk in shallow waters, where salvaged and recommissioned under their own name. Tozan Maru for example was towed to Hong Kong in April 1942.
According to several sources, including John Aldens book 'US Submarine attacks during WWII including Allied submarine attacks in the pacific theatre' 2nd edition, KXII torpedoes and sinks or damages the Japanese freighter ms Toro Maru (1939t) on the 12th of December 1941. Position: Off Kota Bharu, 06°N-102°20'E (or 06°08'N-102°16'E according to other sources). But he also quotes sources that credit O 16 with this attack. Dutch sources do not credit either of these subs with the sinking of ms Toro Maru.
The Japanese Toro Maru (Photo: © Collection Hasashi Noma)

 
13 Dec 1941: The O 16, with only one torpedo remaining, returns to Singapore.
13 Dec 1941: : C-in-C Eastern Fleet reports (#283 1213-0741) 100 transport vessels have been spotted off the Indochina coast at 12:13 in the morning.
13 Dec 1941: C-in-C Eastern Fleet orders (#290 0620/13 Dec. 41) K XVII, K XI, K XII and O 16) to proceed to Singapore at best speed. He also reports that large convoys are spotted sailing SSW from approximately 011N-109E p.m. 12 Dec or a.m. 13 Dec.
13 Dec 1941: C-in-C Eastern Fleet orders (#312 ) O 16 to return to Singapore East Sanctuary during daylight of 16 or 17 December. Staying submarines are to take positions at best speed between Anambas and the Malaya shore, on a line of bearing 310º from Mangkai light, 20 miles apart in the sequence K XII, K XIII, K XI, K XVII. K XII is to be 20 miles from Mangkai light.
14 Dec 1941: C-in-C orders/reports (#340 0821/ 14 Dec. 41) that a force of 2 battle ships and 6 cruisers was reported in position 7º32'N-106º18'E at 0654z 14 December. O 19 and O 20 are to endeavor to gain on a position covering the advancing enemy, should they pass between position assigned to K XVII and the shore.
15 Dec 1941 about 02:30 hrs: O 16 is struck by a mine while she is exiting the Gulf of Siam during her homebound voyage to Singapore. The submarine is nearly broken in half and 41 men are lost. Only one crewmember, boatswain Cornelis de Wolf, survives. Actually there were five crew who were thrown overboard by the blast and tried to stay together and swim to a nearby island. However, only boatswain de Wolf made it. O 16 sailed right into a Japanese line of mines, this line of mines also sunk the submarine K XVII. Because the wreck of the O 16 is regarded as a war grave the exact coordinates of the wreck will not be displayed on this site.  
Oct 1995: A wreck, located off Tioman and reported years before by fisherman, is identified as the Dutch submarine O 16. Approximate position of the wreck is 3º10'N-104º19'E.
1998
18 Aug 1998, from "The Strait Times", by Chang Ai-Lien: Dive expedition to film W.W.II submarines:
A Singapore team will film two sunken Dutch submarines (O 16 and K XVII) on the Pulau Tioman seabed and offer the footage to the Singapore History Museum.
A Singapore dive expedition is preparing to film and document two Dutch submarines lying on the seabed off Pulau Tioman in Malaysia. The O 16 and K XVII, relics of World War II, are the watery tombs of about 70 officers and crew who drowned when the submarines were sunk in the South China Sea by Japanese mines. Both submarines were based in Singapore under the British eastern fleet command when they were sunk in December, 1941.
The O 16, which was responsible for sinking several Japanese ships, was struck by Japanese mines as she exited the Gulf of Siam.
The K XVII hit the same line of mines about a week later, after an unsuccessful attack on a Japanese submarine. Of the 75 people on board the two craft, only one man survived, boatswain C. de Wolf was the only survivor of the O 16)
Expedition leader Michael Lim, 32, director of Technical Diving International, told reporters on a training barge off Tuas yesterday: "No one is certain what we will find in the submarines. "If they have been air-locked, then we really will not know what to expect." The submarines could still be completely sealed or air locked.
The group of 18 highly trained technical divers will begin their four-day expedition on Thursday. They will dive to depths of about 60 m. Recreational divers can dive only to depths of 40 m. The expedition divers will use time-tested methods, as well as the newest gadgets, to ensure their safety. For example, they will unravel lines as they dive so that they do not lose their way if it gets very dark or murky. They will also be talking to people on the boat via an underwater transmitter set, and using up-to-date dive software, which will calculate the best mix of gases to place in the tanks and how fit the divers are to dive. Mr. Lim, who was also responsible for a recent salvage operation on the Empress of Asia which was sunk by Japanese bombers in 1942, said that the film footage will be offered to the Singapore History Museum.
The $35,000 expedition is sponsored by Unilever Singapore, which markets Brut Actif Blue, a men's fragrance. Mr. Ignatius Francis Danakody, 21, is one of two men selected to enter the submarines because of his small build. Heavier men would not be able to squeeze into the submarine's hull. The salvage officer with Singapore Salvage Engineers, who started diving when he was 10, is a veteran with more than 1,000 dives under his belt. Mr. Danakody weighs 58 kg and his equipment, which includes a video camera and double tanks, weighs almost as much as he does. He said: "At that depth, everything is so different. Your movements are slower and you even think slower."
For comparison one should also read the Aug 19 and 21 article.
19 Aug 1998, from "De Telegraaf" (a Dutch Newspaper): Divers locate two Dutch W.W.II submarines:
“A team of divers from Singapore located the Dutch Submarines K XVII and O 16 in the South China Sea at a depth of 60 meters. The wrecks of the two submarines were found East of Malaysia, off Tioman, by divers of Technical Diving International (TDI). The search for the submarines is financially supported by the Dutch multinational Unilever. The diving team will return to the wreck sites during the next five days in order to photograph and video the area. Since the wrecks are war graves the divers will not touch the wrecks or bring pieces up to the surface.”
Reading this article one could get the impression the submarines were discovered in 1998, but the K XVII was located in 1982 and the O 16 in 1995. For comparison one should also read the Aug 18 and 21 article.
21 Aug 1998, by RTL5 TV: War grave film footage (not) used for commercial:
“Today the Dutch press reported that the film footage made of the submarines O 16 and K XVII (see Aug 18 and 19) was going to be used in a commercial for the men's fragrance Brut Actif Blue from Unilever. Since the two submarines are still war graves this resulted in a lot of negative response from the Dutch. Unilever stated that because of all this negative publicity the footage will not be used for the commercial anymore.”
As for K XVII all that could be learned was that her skipper, Ltz. I  H.C. Besançon, had exchanged messages with K XII during a brief encounter on 14 December. Thereafter there was only silence. Although Ltz. I  Coumou had later noted an oil slick and some floating pieces of teak decking, these could have come from the British warship sunk a few days earlier. Possibly K XVII too had blundered into the same mined area that claimed O 16, but for lack of evidence her loss was put down to an unknown cause.
An official Dutch reassessment shortly after the war reaffirmed the original conclusions. There the matter stood, cases considered closed.
Cornelis de Wolf, after serving his country's submarine force for the rest of the war, retired from the navy and died in 1983. Unaware that the scenario based on his remarkable escape from death at sea was flawed. Given the duration of his swim, his sightings of distant peaks, the strength of the ocean current, and the known place where he landed, O 16 could not possibly have been far enough south to have run into the British minefield. (Piet van Warmerdam’s Note: Lieutenant Commander Bussemaker was accused of blundering into a known British minefield and held responsible for the death of his crew. This part of the story is showing the effort put forth to exonerate Lieutenant Commander Bussemaker.)
Later, new information surfaced from the shambles of Japanese naval records and suggested a somewhat different conclusion. By 1956 the British had found and published the information that on the night of 6-7 December the Japanese had planted a previously unknown mine line east of Tioman Island.4 Of two auxiliary minelayers (requisitioned merchant ships) sent to do the stealthy job, one had turned back immediately after being discovered by enemy reconnaissance planes, but TATSUMIYA MARU had laid a string of 456 lethal eggs across the route later taken by the Dutch submarines. Although the Dutch naval authorities, having other problems on their minds, did not reopen the official case, the British and many students of World War II submarine operations now felt that the Dutch skippers were exonerated from the charge of having blundered into a friendly minefield. Years later however, historians were still repeating the old assessment.
Unexpectedly, the case of K XVII was reopened in 1980 as the result of a sensational Dutch television program on which a man with his face masked claimed to have engineered the sinking of a Dutch submarine in the Pacific Ocean on orders from Winston Churchill. The boat, he said, had discovered the Japanese fleet on its way to Hawaii, but Churchill had suppressed the information to ensure that a successful Japanese attack would force America's entry into the war. To hush up this traitorous act, the submarine and its crew had to be eliminated. This bizarre rehash of a discredited conspiracy theory was apparently perpetrated by a man calling himself Christopher Creighton, whose fantastic claims were used as the basis for a novel by Brian Garfield and later enlarged in a book by Creighton himself7. (check out the K XVII and the Japanese "Pearl Harbour Fleet" message on the Dutch Sub-Board for more info on Creighton/Garfield and their books) In the course of the TV program, the interrogator asked whether the submarine in question might have been the missing K XVII, although the sabotage was alleged to have taken place near the Fiji Islands. This ridiculous speculation and ensuing publicity provoked Hans C. Besançon, Jr., the son of the lost boat's commander and himself a retired officer of the Royal Netherlands navy, to undertake a crusade to find his father's resting place and disprove the grotesque fabrications of his detractors.
 

Although the naval authorities declined to provide financial backing for Besançon, they were able to offer some useful information. In 1981 a treasure diver from Singapore, Michael Hatcher, reported having located a sunken Dutch submarine in the South China Sea. Wrecks in the area had become well known to local fisherman who were attracted by the abundant marine life around the sunken ships, only to have their nets snagged on underwater obstructions. Pursuing this lead, Besançon contacted Hatcher and in May 1982 they moored over the wreck and sent divers down. The divers reported that the submarine had sunk deeply into the mud bottom, but they were able to recover the steering wheel from the exposed bridge. When its serial number was checked against naval records, the boat was positively identified as K XVII.
Yet there was still a mystery: the wreck lay well north of the reported location of the Japanese mine line.  The missing pieces of the puzzle were provided nine years later by researchers in the Netherlands and Japan. Records disclosed that a Dutch flying boat had sighted TATSUMIYA MARU on 6 December and caused her to turn back prematurely. Before reversing course, however, she had laid her mines about 18 miles north of the assigned position. The remains of K XVII lay exactly within the relocated minefield north of Tioman.
Besançon's quest and its findings had attracted considerable public attention, so when a Swedish diver, Sten Sjöstrand, reported finding another sunken submarine in 1995 that he suspected to be Dutch, the naval authorities were interested. Initiating a search for family members of the men lost on O 16, they organized an expedition to examine the wreck.
This time Besançon was joined by his fellow retired naval officers, H.O. and A.P. Bussemaker, sons of the boat's lost commander. The Dutch group also included an official naval observer, Ltz 1 J.M. van Zee, and two journalists. The Navy also contributed funds, photographic and video equipment, charts of the area, and blueprints and identification photos of the submarine. The hulk was quickly located at a depth of 53 meters (about 75 feet) some nine miles east of K XVII in the same Japanese mine line, draped in fish nets and with a gaping hole forward of the bridge. Details of the boat's layout confirmed it to be O 16, and the divers removed the steering wheel and some other fittings for retention as official evidence and historical mementos.

The brothers Bussemaker then dropped a memorial wreath on the wreck and van Zee offered a brief prayer on behalf of the Royal Netherlands Navy. The case of the two lost submarines was finally closed (video1/2/3).
Footnote 1: This article is base largely on the book Hr.Ms. K XVII en Hr.Ms. O 16. by Dr. P.C. van Royen et al of the Instituut voor Maritime Historie, 's-Gravenhage.
Footnote 2: Japanese records confirm that the O 16 sank three ships in shallow water at Patani: Tosan Maru (8666 T), Kinka (or Kinkasan) Maru (9306 T), and Asosan Maru (8811 T). All were salvaged and sunk later during the war.  Dutch sources have also claimed Sakura Maru (7170 T) and Ayata (or Ayatosan) Maru (9788 T) for O 16, but Japanese sources say these ships were only damaged by aircraft at Kota Bharu. Japanese and Allied records for that period are extremely sketchy and often inconsistent, leaving some doubt as to the actual events.
Footnote 3: K XII is credited with sinking Toro Maru (1939 T) although some sources assign that ship to O 16. The British claim that Taizan (or Taisan) Maru (3525 T) was also sunk at Kota Bharu by K XII (one writer credits K XIII), but Japanese records fail to confirm any damage there.
Footnote 4: Naval Staff History Second World War, Submarines, Vol. 3, Operations in Far Eastern Waters. London: Historical Section, Admiralty, 1956.
Footnote 5: Van Royen identifies the second minelayer as the CHOSE MARU, but that ship is not listed in "Warships of the Imperial Japanese Navy, 1869-1945" by Jentschura, Jung, & Mickel, a standard reference.
Footnote 6: Dull, Paul S. "A Battle History of the Imperial Japanese Navy (1941-1945). Annapolis, MD: Naval Institute Press, 1978 (third printing 1982).
Footnote 7: Garfield, Brian in collaboration with "Christopher Creighton", "The Paladin: A novel based on fact". New York: Simon & Schuster, ca 1980. Van Royen identifies the other book as: Creighton, Christopher.  "Operatie JB: Het laatste grote geheim van WOII". London/Amsterdam, 1996.
Pictures: All pictures are added to the article by the webmaster.
From: The Submarine Review, Jan 1999.
By CDR John D. Alden, USN (Ret). Webmaster remarks to footnote 5: According to a JMSDF source (letter from 1981)  only 1 vessel laid the line of mines. In the British Naval Staff History it is written that Chose Maru and Tatsumiya Maru where ordered to lay mines East of Malaya. But Chose Maru turned back when the ships were spotted and shadowed by British aircraft on the morning of 6 Dec. Tatsumiya Maru went on and laid a minefield off Pulo Tioman, off the coast Johore. Van Royen writes that Tatsumiya Maru was disturbed once again (this time by a Dutch plane) and therefore laid her mines 30 miles more North (where the Dutch subs where hit by mines).  Chose Maru is probably a typo. It is almost sure the correct name is Chosa Maru, this boat was eventually sunk by the O 24 on 20 Aug 1943.
Source: http://www.dutchsubmarines.com/specials/special_lost_submarines.htm
 
Final note by Piet van Warmerdam: I have edited this article by removing a few duplicate entries, spelling and punctuation errors. The original can still be read by copying and pasting the above URL into your web browser. This is for me highly emotional because of my indirect involvement through my father having been involved. I have heard him talk about it on several occasions when he came home between patrols. He knew these men. My father was transferred to the Cruiser Hr. Ms. Java on January 1941 from the submarine O19 because of his promotion to Adjudant. 
 
Cheers,
 

Hello friends,
 
Finely a sign of life from the Flying Dutchman. "Stuff" got in the way, as usual. The co-captain had a long list of "stuff" to do around the house so I was Shanghaied into her projects. But besides that I upgraded my Galaxy S5 Android for their S8 and spend 3 days figuring it out and trying to install DropBox - - - to no avail. The differences between my latest upgrade for my iMac and now this S8 kinda changed things. Transferring pics from the S8 to my confuser is a lot more cumbersome, 'm not a happy camper.
 
Okay, enough of my bitching about things that interfere with fun, i.e. ship building. The next thing to tackle for the O16 model is the con. The Dutch call it "het zeil" meaning the sail. The lower part is a combo of storage, hiding and streamlining the exposed tubes for the 40 mm retractable AA guns and the two crew excess tubes to the upper part where the bridge as well as the tubes for the periscopes, antenna and the snorkel inlet. What we call "the bridge" the Dutch submariners call it "de kuip" or the tub or bathtub. A rather appropriate name for it I think.
 
Because this part is rather small and difficult to handle I decided to put it on a wooden pin that I can clamp in my handy dady Proxxon mini vice. I drilled a small hole in the bottom for a toothpick so had something to grab a hold on without the fear of damaging it and all future gizmos that will be attached to it.
 
Due to the lack of time - - see reasons above - - I am only going to cement the steering wheel and direction finder antenna, which we old aviators call the loop antenna onto their appropriate spots. Believe or not, this little bit of work took more time then I figured.
Okay, first I cut the loop antenna from the PE sheet, cleaned it op with a small file and instead of tweezers, they have a tendency to eject the part to unknown regions, I used a pair of instrument maker's needle nose pliers. I cemented it to the forward part of the bathtub. If you notice from the original photo of the O16 bathtub I placed it in the wrong side. I may try to relocate it later.
 
Next is the steering wheel. Boris did a masterful job with the PE, it truly looks like the wheel on the original O16. problem is, it's so tiny. I was afraid of loosing it by handling it with tools. However, I lucked out and was able to remove it from the PE sheet, clean it up with a tiny file and cementing into place.
 
Well, that was all I could do for this day, and yes, I had to use my optivisor. Below are a few pics to show what I have accomplished. 
 
The sail or conning tower temporarily placed on the hull

 
A #11 blade placed in front of the conning tower to indicate its size. Observe how clean the casting is. Another indication of the quality of the kit.

 
A hole drilled in the bottom of the con and the toothpick for my handle.

 
Here is the con nicely clamped to my mini vice and ready for more work.

 
Here I have laid out the loop direction finder antenna and the steering wheel with the #11 blade to indicate size, small is not the right word for it, tiny is better.

 
Here the loop direction finder antenna is cemented in. I decided to have it in the partial up position just show that she had such an antenna.
 

 
I have taken this shot single handed 5 times to get one that's in focus. The steering wheel on my thumb nail.

 
Both parts are now safely cemented into place.

 
This is a photo from the real O16 - showing "the bathtub." To the left is the retractable loop direction finder antenna, the round barrel like thingy is the binnacle, then the steering wheel in front of it. Behind the steering wheel to the right is the chart locker. On the lower right of the photo is the lid for the crew access tube. That goes all the way down to the "Central Control Room." I have no clue what that round standing thing is to the right. Forgive me for my ignorance, I'm an airplane guy.

I hope you like the pics and the additional real photos of the boat.
 
Cheers to all,
 

Finally I found some time to show what has been accomplished in the last few days. I know, I know, it doesn't seem like there is a lot to on this model but in the meantime I had to do some research on the history of the O16. I found something that I had to edit which took some time. I also researched  that new type of steel they used on this boat, which peeked my interest, being a metallurgist and certified welder to boot. However, I am not yet going to post that historical log here but instead I'll show the next step in the assembly process.
 
I decided to put the rudder, propeller assembly and dive plane assemblies on. That way I can put the model on the proto display board for stability for the rest of the build and keep those delicate stern parts safe.
 
On the pics below, especially those from my O19 build, you can see where they all go.
First I cemented the rudder on, easy, peacy, no problem here.
Then I proceeded to the propeller assemblies. I first made a little dimple in the shaft fairing on the hull so I had a secure point to glue the prop shaft to while aligning attaching braces. It was best to lay the hull upside down, prep everything first like squeezing some CA on a piece of cardboard and a sewing pin handy.
Took the prop assembly in a pair of tweezers with my left hand, positioned the part as best as I could, looking from the stern and the side to make sure it aligned properly. Then, with the pin, I took a tiny drop of CA and first dabbed some on the attaching braces and then where the prop shaft goes into the hull. I lucked out, it looked okay to me so I did the same on the other side.
 
Next came the dive plane assemblies. Not so easy. They didn't seem to line up with with the vertical axis of the boat. With other words they were pointing more inboard at the rear. I checked with the O19 model sitting next to me on the shelf to see if I was locating it correctly. The dive plane outer frame is attached to the prop shaft bearing housing and when I held the part to where I figured they belong it didn't look right. What I should have done was curt a small piece off at the forward end of the frame. I also found that the dive planes did not have enough cut-out for the rudder swing.
Perhaps I got sidetracked by how I did it on the O19 and Boris had another idea I am not aware of.
Well, I did cut some material away for the rudder to swing and decided to cement it to the model anyhow and fix it by cementing a piece of very thin paper on top, cutting it to shape later.
 
So yes, I took a piece of thin copy paper, soaked in thin CA and after it had cured I made a rough outline of the whole assemble and cut it from the copy paper. Some fitting and trimming to come close to where everything lined up I cemented it to the dive planes. Hmmm, not too bad, he mumbled to himself. Now a little more trimming, a little grey paint and voila, done.
 
Sorry Boris, I screwed up but in the end it looks pretty good. I find that working on kit models is a lot more difficult then scratch building. But I do like a challenge and this model certainly is.
 
Okay, now for a few pics. I included a few from my O19 build and from the actual photo library of the shipyard. 
 
Here we see all the pertinent parts laid out at the stern of the model with a #11 blade to indicate size. Beware of the prop blades, they are extremely delicate!

 
This is a similar lay out from my O19 model.
 
This is the CA soaked paper I used for the fix.

 
Here the fix pieces are ready to be glued to the dive plane assemblies.

 
The fixit parts are now glued on and ready to be trimmed.

 
I brushed some dark grey paint on it to kill the white. At this point I did some more trimming for what I think the proper alignment should be.

 
This is a photo from the shipbuilder's archive and shows the "kingston" frame #1. It is the most aft pressure bulkhead with the propeller shaft bearing housing attached to it #6. The center arrow #5 points to the keel with the dive plane pivot shat bearing housing #3.  #2 are for the torpedo tubes and #4 is the rudder protective guard.

 
This is how I mounted all these parts to the O19 model.

 
Here we see the stern of the O19 in primer.
 
Another view of the dive planes on the O19 model

 
Here is the O19 model stern end completed and yes everything works, even the propellers rotate when blowing on them.

 
Cheers,