Don9of11

Gary, I've been following your build and wanted to know how much of your lower deck details are still visible?

I thought this might be of interest to all of you following this post
 
https://www.onshape.com/cad-blog/onshape-goes-to-sea

Since my first post a little over a month ago, I have been working with Onshape. I created a Free account and I have been steadily learning how to use the program. Anyone with 3D modeling experience should have no difficulty working with this program. There is absolutely no software to download and none of the programs functionality is withheld. I did have to purchase a new graphics card as my old ATI Radeon card did not support webgl. I spent about $60 on a new card. I can pretty much do any task I want on my PC, stream video or music and the modeling is not in anyway hampered by my multi-tasking. I'm have a dual core pentium processor and it handles things very nicely. I can only imagine what the new i3 and i5 chips can do.
 
Anyway, I have spent the last two weeks remodeling my 74 gun ship in Onshape and I have modeled some other interesting parts. The starship Enterprise was an assembly of a SW model I had created several years ago.
 
This is really exciting technology be cause a doing a group build or in this case a group design is a real possibility. Several people can be working on the same part at the same time and all the changes are saved. That's another nice thing about onShape, you never have to save your work, it saves it for you. You can also go back and review every change you ever made or review your entire modeling process. 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

I recently learned about a browser based 3D CAD program which is able to run on Windows and Mac platforms as well as mobile devices.
 
https://www.onshape.com/
 
 
This program offers a free version and a paid version. So I signed up for the free version and quickyly learned that my 10 yr old 64bit computer's Radeon graphics card does not support webGL which is required to run this program on your web browser, tablet or phone. Also, your browser must also support webGL and most modern web browsers like Firefox and Chrome support this feature but some browsers disable this feature because of performance issues. I learned too that some graphics cards are supported and some are not. The program from what I can tell is in a Beta production status. Despite all these various requirements it look's like a vary robust 3D CAD program.
 
 
Here is a link about webGL
 
https://www.khronos.org/webgl/

Gary, I've been following your build and wanted to know how much of your lower deck details are still visible?

Your work is awesome! To have completed what you have done so far is amazing. Are you switching CAD programs or staying with Sketchup? I wouldn't worry too much about having to start over, it's the mark of a good shipwright and what you have learned so far will aid you in your new efforts.

I've seen quite a few posts referencing that these exist and apparently some are having a hard time to find them.   I hope Chuck doesn't mind but I'm putting the links here.   
 

When I open multiple massive assemblies in Solid works and then open individual components it seems after a fashion SW starts acting weird and strange things happen when working in a sketch or drawing. I've learned with experience the solution is to save my work and reboot. Have you tried rebooting?

In my experience the image used for sketching needs to be on a layer that is underneath the sketch layer. I think this is true for most cad programs. If you are trying to sketch on the same layer as the image, your lines, arcs and or points are being hidden because the cad program doesn't know what you want displayed. Try using a different layer for your sketching and a separate layer for your image.

I've had pretty good luck getting replacement parts from ME. I think if you explain the situation like you did above they'll send a replacement.

I've had pretty good luck getting replacement parts from ME. I think if you explain the situation like you did above they'll send a replacement.

I've had pretty good luck getting replacement parts from ME. I think if you explain the situation like you did above they'll send a replacement.

Everything looks good as usual Chuck and I like how you've laid out your monograph. The color photos are nice and clear and the content well thought out. I might have asked you this before,  are you doing your own laser cutting these days?  

Nice work on the transom pieces Alan, As to the other measuring oversight, don't look at it as a mistake but as an opportunity.   
 
 

Thanks Don
All I need now is some bad weather so I can lock myself downstairs with the ship and not feel like I am missing another beautiful day.

Nice work on the transom pieces Alan, As to the other measuring oversight, don't look at it as a mistake but as an opportunity.   
 
 

Sunday 02 July 2016
Some time has passed since my last posting here because I had revealed yet another issue.  Druxey had commented that I should assure I get the wing transom set at the proper angle or everything would be thrown off.
 
When setting the angle something seemed amiss.  Upon studying the original sheer and timber plans from NMM it became obvious they did not agree with regards to the placement of the transom pieces.  To add to this my stern post was short by almost two feet (my error).
 
After considerable reflection I marked the proper heights on a piece of stiff cardboard.  I cut off the top of my stern post to be flush with the upper side of the wing transom and then grafted an extension to my stern post to be the correct height.  This has yet to be sanded.  I then had to adjust the height "shelf" of my inner post and nipped off all those wonderful pocket extensions.  I am concerned for the adjacent frame templates now as they may be out of alignment.  I'll be double checking this before I make these aft frame timbers.
 

 
I've rough cut all the transom pieces and will fit them after I have the stem post assembly made and attached.  I'll be working on the stem post next.
 

 

Everything looks good as usual Chuck and I like how you've laid out your monograph. The color photos are nice and clear and the content well thought out. I might have asked you this before,  are you doing your own laser cutting these days?  

Everything looks good as usual Chuck and I like how you've laid out your monograph. The color photos are nice and clear and the content well thought out. I might have asked you this before,  are you doing your own laser cutting these days?  

Thank you all for the well wishes and questions  
 
Just to answer a few questions I have received about this Royal Barge.
 
-  It is circa 1700 - Queen Anne Style Royal Barge
 
- It WILL be a full Kit and not a scratch/with some laser cut parts.  My first full kit with everything all included.   
 
- It is 1:24 scale and will be about 20" long.  
 
-The stock kit will be made in Cherry with boxwood carvings and trim in place of gilding.  A boxwood or Pear upgrade version will also be made available as special order.  But the cherry will look great and be far less expensive.  I am using prime pieces that are "cherry-picked" for a lighter tone.  Examine the image below and look at how much waste wood there would be on each frame if Boxwood or pear was used...each kit in those woods will be considerably more expensive and mostly used up for the frame centers.   So consider this if you intend to order a custom cut version in Box or Pear. 
 
- The build board....for lack of a better word is included.  Its a design choice to replace of all of those pesky wood strips people glue across the frames for the longboat and pinnace to stabalize it for fairing and planking.  I have learned a lot watching all of you build those. This replaces the need for those and provides a sturdy base to Clinker plank....only three strakes will be on each kit to mirror the contemporary examples we are all familiar with.  They will be pre-spiled and laser cut to make it easier.
 
- The vertical lines shown on frames "10" and "J" in the previous post are there as a visual reference.  They are there so when you place the keel assembly on top of the frames.... you can eyeball the hull from dead astern and at the bow to make sure its straight and not tilted one way or the other.  Its a slightly different build concept than placing the frames into the keel slots first like the longboat.   The build-board lines them all up so you dont have to fight with trying to get them all centered and perpendicular....those that built the pinnace and longboat know what I am referencing.  It was a pain to do well and there are many many more frames in this kit.  It has proven more effective to place the keel onto the frames afterwards.....  
 
-  I dont have any idea of price yet because its too soon in the prototype process to tell.  
 
Thanks for the interest and its OK to ask the questions in this topic....I am sure many others have the same questions and its easier to answer them once here.  
 
Thanks again
 
Chuck
 

I thought I would give a little status update on this side project.   As some of you know I am working on two new complete kits for Syren...
 
One is of a 1/2" scale Royal navy barge circa 1700.  I am trying to push the envelope a bit with my design concepts and the laser cutter.   It will look like the contemporary model below but actually be almost exactly like the Queen Anne style barge shown in the Kriegstein collection.  Those that have the Seawatch book should check it out.  This will be a fully framed little model and I am very excited about it.  I am building off of the design concept I used for the long boat and pinnace but taking it a bit farther.  I hope these photos will give you a sufficient idea about the scope/concept of the project.  This is a big barge model at over 20" long.
 
I am fortunate to have found someone who is an excellent model builder who will build the prototype for me as it is designed.   Unfortunately there is just not enough time in the day for me to build everything I design.  He will be starting a build log shortly as I get a little further with the design.   Many of you know him and will enjoy his build log as you have enjoyed his others.  This project is a long, long way from being released but I thought I would show you what we are working on in addition to the many other projects.  It also shows you how Syren will bring new projects to market without having to wait for me to build the entire model.   I will be concentrating on finishing the Cheerful and then continuing with the Winchelsea.   At the same time I will be collaborating with others to bring you folks additional stuff!!! 
 
There are no deadlines for these projects...they will get done when they get done.  It is more important that these projects are the best possible within my limits of experience and expertise and they will never be rushed to market.   I will however keep you guys updated.   The last thing the hobby needs are more sub-par ship model projects and kits.  I apologize for the longer development times compared to others.  I hope its not too frustrating.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just wanted to give all of you a more detailed look at what the new Queen Anne Style Royal Barge project will look like.  You are looking at the preliminary draft for the plans.  A PDF is below for a more detailed look.  I am not worried about theft because there are no laser cut parts or templates shown on this sheet.  I removed those.   As the project and prototype gets built,  more details will be added to aid the builder.  Including those parts which were removed as theft prevention. This is why it is so important to have someone else build the project before its released.  They will give me feedback on what additional views and parts would be helpful to include on the plan sheets.  And when its completed they should be quite detailed....even though I think what is shown is probably already detailed enough for most folks.
 
As you can see. This sheet includes many views of the model at various stages of its construction so those elements can be more easily seen.  This includes a planking expansion on the bottom of the sheet.
 
With the plans fully developed all that is left to do is build the prototypes....two of them.  Make adjustments...Update and embellish the plans where needed...write the instructions.....and then start on packaging and production.  This will include making all laser cut parts,  cast decorations...and wood decorations.   
 
The model will be nearly 19" long and 3 1/2" wide at 1/2" scale.  It will very closely resemble the contemporary model pictured.
 
Let me know if you have any questions.
 

 
Chuck
 

queenannebargeplanmsw.pdf

Nice work Alan! I always learn something when I come to see your progress. Have you tried using a 4H or 6H pencil? I have found that these leads hold their sharpness a little longer than the standard 2H.  

Nice work Alan! I always learn something when I come to see your progress. Have you tried using a 4H or 6H pencil? I have found that these leads hold their sharpness a little longer than the standard 2H.  

June 11 2016
 
I cut the frame steps into the port side of the aft deadwood and installed two more sections of the rising wood... and yes those are the two upper most transom pieces dry fitted into place.
 
The Wing Transom and the Filler Transom.
 
I intend to cut the other transom pieces but will not be fixing them in place permanently until I get the Stem Post (at the pointy end as my darling wife refers to it) in place.