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Haze Gray

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Everything posted by Haze Gray

  1. Haze Gray
    At 1/72 it's not going to be a small ship. Time to start making space in the workshop!
  2. Haze Gray
    Painted the bottom of the French Ram Belier - so thought I would share a pic
  3. Haze Gray
    Started working on the Messena today - one of my most favorites and looks do-able...
  4. Haze Gray
    Hello GreaverBlade - I do get inquiries from time to time about the 3D/STL files but at this time I don't have plans to make them available (maybe some time after I finish the ship!) I will say that the major sections of the hull are fairly large, the stearn section is 375mm in height and maybe 290mm at it's widest....so typical printers like Ender 2/3 are not going to work. However, for those of you that are interested in building some of the ships I design I usually print a 1st draft to prove out everything fits, etc. I do sometimes make those drafts available to interested modelers provided they cover whatever the cost of the filament & shipping of the components would be. I have this ship that I've been tinkering with but it's been slightly challenging.
  5. Haze Gray
  6. Haze Gray
    Love the work you’re doing on this ship - I especially found how you float tested it to be a great idea - most of the boats I build are too big for the bathtub !!!! by the way how long is your ship end to end?
  7. Haze Gray
    Outstanding work Valeriy! You are very much an inspiration to us here on this site! Bravo! I have learned a lot from you work on varyag and hope to apply much of that on my next project.
  8. Haze Gray
    Are you using design spark mechanical? I just recently downloaded it - need time to figure it out.
  9. Haze Gray
    Just an update - painted the hull back in October. lots of parts not shown.... they are all stuffed inside the hull while I wait for warmer weather to paint more.
  10. Haze Gray
    Hello all, just an update - all I've printed all the major components I'm starting down the path of putting together the assemblies and getting things ready for painting. Here I'm gluing the 3 parts of the spar deck together - the kitchen is a great place to do so since the granite countertop is quite flat and there's a wide variety of heavy objects that I can use to hold things in place .... while the epoxy is curing I can also make a sandwich so kitchens are a real win-win scenario in my opinion! and finally the completed part:
  11. Haze Gray
    Hello Dancooper - at some point in the near future I'll make the STL's available - the USS Maine was the first ship I modeled and it could use some cleaning up + a build guide. I'll try to work on it over the next few months and will reach out to if/when I am able to release it. in 1/72 scale the hull parts are fairly big - a 3d printer bed size of at least 280mm X 280mm Y and 250mm Z is recommended. what kind of printer do you have?
  12. Haze Gray
    Yes, my knees are being "utilized" but at the moment I'm just placing parts one by one - so they only take abuse for 15-30 seconds.... My knees are in fairly good 'nick' but I still take it easy.
  13. Haze Gray
    So, I really like how unique the French armaments are - here's the Canon de 65 mm Modèle 1891 - love it! I can't design it exactly per its real configuration since even with resin printing some accommodations need to be made but happy with the result. The Charles Martel had four of these on board.
  14. Haze Gray
    Hi Wefalck - I will say that it's a lot easier to make mistakes in CAD but also much faster to correct them in CAD - sometimes I don't notice a problem until I actually print out the parts and realize they don't fit/look like they should... While I've never had to re-print a hull (thank God) everything from the deck up has a strong chance that I'll need to re-print after correcting/modifying them. I think that with a complete set of plans and traditional construction techniques could be just as fast or faster than what I'm doing. While I've created 973 Bodies in fusion many have been combined so by my count, I've only actually printed out 112 thus far. Here's what the Charles Martel looks like at this stage....
  15. Haze Gray
    Thanks Lou - I think the term masochist applies in my instance 😃
  16. Haze Gray
    I've been keeping the printers busy......... but I think I have about 100+ more parts to design and print (at least)...
  17. Haze Gray
    I'm impressed that you got that support structure printed without supports! Well done! Looking forward to seeing the upper deck take shape too.
  18. Haze Gray
    Thought I would provide an update on the Charles Martel - been busy studying lots of photos since there's a lack of complete drawings (especially for structures above the deck). Happy to report that I am starting to understand a lot more about the ship and making changes that the cad model reflects. Still much to do but here's a look at the actual model progress thus far:
  19. Haze Gray
    Hi Dr. Per - yes I'll write something up with some photos - no printing yet on it (printers are busy with Charles Martel parts). If I remember correctly - there's a connection between the USS Baltimore and a famous inventor from Sweden
  20. Haze Gray
    Well I did kind of forge ahead and got the hull created in Fusion 360. To be honest each hull has it's own problems to solve - here's the model with some details show as to the frames and rails that I put in to make it as smooth as possible.
  21. Haze Gray
    Thanks JReeves - good to hear from another tumble home adorer! A 1/96th static model would be 2 inches shy of 4 feet long and ~ 8 inches wide. This is something I could probably print but I need to make some adjustments to the model. I'm going to be moving to a new place so 2-3 months before I even get things setup to make an attempt at that scale. I do have her sister ships in mind to do as well (Messena, Brennus, Bouvet, Jaureberry, and Carnot (yes...Carnot!.... this one will be huge challenge!).
  22. Haze Gray
    Back when you were having extrusion issues I was thinking it could due to not enough pressure on the filament and it might be slipping - but looking at the distortion on the gear maybe you had it screwed down extremely tight..... but I've never seen plastic filament actually deform metal - that a first for sure!
  23. Haze Gray
    Thank you Steven, some of those pictures I had but some were new to me - many thanks for the link (every photo helps!!).
  24. Haze Gray
    Some truly amazing work here Richard! My hat's off to you for tackling a project this big - I can't wait to see it finished and in the water!!! What have you been using to laser cut the wood parts?
  25. Haze Gray
    If I was restricted to only one type of printer I'd have to chose FDM (but luckily I don't have to make that choice!) . You can get some pretty astonishing results with FDM nozzles that are sub 0.4mm - I've use 0.3mm before and it's big difference in the amount of detail you can resolve. There's still a lot of development in the FMD space - E3D is developing a nozzle change system that's a lot like swapping an air tool https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/rapidchangerevo so going for 0.4mm to 0.3 or smaller could be a very fast change. Don't get me wrong though, if there was an affordable SLA machine that had 1500mm Z and 300x300 build plate I'd have one - but I can't see ever fully ditching FDM for SLA entirely based of the type of models that I print. Changing materials (PLA to ABS) on a FDM is quick and painless compared to changing to a different resin for SLA. SLS seems like it would have most of the benefits of both SLA and FDM but oh my - that's getting into really expensive territory.

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