AndyMech

Oh, I have a quick response related to the hinges.  First, thanks for the tip - the metallic painted paper is a really good idea!
 
Second, and this is more of an overall approach to my build - there are a ton of little details included in the kit and the plans.  Things like the extra pads when doing the deck planking, the skylights embedded in the deck, the hinges on the boxes, the fire hose on one of the deck hatches, etc.  I've deliberately left a lot of those out - some I may add later, but many I may not.  I appreciate the accuracy of those parts, but I also want my build to have cleaner look and not have so many little details that they seem to clutter the overall model.  I'm certainly not criticizing those folks that put them in - they have more skill than I do to pull them off anyway.  But, I feel there's also some value in leaving some of those off as well.  Or I'm just lazy!
 
For example, I've not drilled hawse holes at the bow.  I may never do that - for one, I'm hesitant to drill into my painstakingly planked deck and wales.   I know it would inaccurate to leave them out, but aesthetically I may prefer it that way.  Mind is not made up, I may still do it, but it's an example.
 
Andy.

I found a picture after doing a Google Search - I won't post it here as I'm not sure of the copyright, but I'll update my model and show a picture of that when completed.  I guess, to do the chains right, I will need to finally drill the hawse holes, something I've been avoiding as it's a tricky thing.
 
Andy.

So, it's the end of May, about 9 months since my last update.
 
I completed the fife rails:

And the rudder:
 


For the rudder, I left both the wood and the brass unpainted, at least for now.  I did blacken the chain and CA glue it to the eyebolts.  Hopefully I won't bump it and knock it off doing the rest of the build.
 
None of the deck fitting are glued into place, as I'd like to leave it clear as possible for putting in the masts eventually.
 
If anyone has done this kit, I'm wondering what the brittania fittings for the chain pipes, near the windlass, look like.  The instructions are particularly vague with no drawings of the chain/ropes around the windlass or how the whole thing fits together.  I'd like to finish that next, or work on the cannons.
 
Thanks for bearing with me and my slow progress.
 
Andy.

I am a little worried about it holding up to the rigging.  They feel pretty solid to me now, but I will take another look at some means of reinforcing it.  As for color, to be honest, I'd not thought about it.  The rigging will hide it a little, but painting it wouldn't be too difficult.
 
Thanks for the thoughts,
 
Andy

So, it's the end of May, about 9 months since my last update.
 
I completed the fife rails:

And the rudder:
 


For the rudder, I left both the wood and the brass unpainted, at least for now.  I did blacken the chain and CA glue it to the eyebolts.  Hopefully I won't bump it and knock it off doing the rest of the build.
 
None of the deck fitting are glued into place, as I'd like to leave it clear as possible for putting in the masts eventually.
 
If anyone has done this kit, I'm wondering what the brittania fittings for the chain pipes, near the windlass, look like.  The instructions are particularly vague with no drawings of the chain/ropes around the windlass or how the whole thing fits together.  I'd like to finish that next, or work on the cannons.
 
Thanks for bearing with me and my slow progress.
 
Andy.

So, it's the end of May, about 9 months since my last update.
 
I completed the fife rails:

And the rudder:
 


For the rudder, I left both the wood and the brass unpainted, at least for now.  I did blacken the chain and CA glue it to the eyebolts.  Hopefully I won't bump it and knock it off doing the rest of the build.
 
None of the deck fitting are glued into place, as I'd like to leave it clear as possible for putting in the masts eventually.
 
If anyone has done this kit, I'm wondering what the brittania fittings for the chain pipes, near the windlass, look like.  The instructions are particularly vague with no drawings of the chain/ropes around the windlass or how the whole thing fits together.  I'd like to finish that next, or work on the cannons.
 
Thanks for bearing with me and my slow progress.
 
Andy.

Here's a method of sorting and storing wood I came up with over the holidays:
 
At work, I found a cardboard box that was used to ship a computer keyboard - it's long and not too tall.  I cut the top lid off, and then cut that lid into strips about an inch wide.  Then, I glued those strips into the bottom of the box to create channels - apply some labels and most of my wood is sorted.  Cheap and quick to create.
 
If I find another box, I can make a second one and just stack them together.
 

 

Still moving slowly, but glued in the pinrails today.  I always have trouble getting the pin in straight line, and I guess this effort is no exception.
 
Andy.
 
 

I am a little worried about it holding up to the rigging.  They feel pretty solid to me now, but I will take another look at some means of reinforcing it.  As for color, to be honest, I'd not thought about it.  The rigging will hide it a little, but painting it wouldn't be too difficult.
 
Thanks for the thoughts,
 
Andy

Still moving slowly, but glued in the pinrails today.  I always have trouble getting the pin in straight line, and I guess this effort is no exception.
 
Andy.
 
 

Still moving slowly, but glued in the pinrails today.  I always have trouble getting the pin in straight line, and I guess this effort is no exception.
 
Andy.
 
 

Still moving slowly, but glued in the pinrails today.  I always have trouble getting the pin in straight line, and I guess this effort is no exception.
 
Andy.
 
 

Finally catching up on some of the comments - thanks all for the nice words.  As to modlerbob's other question about finishing as the actual POB II, I'm not sure.  I may leave off the tiny, tiny lettering the plans specify as I can't hand-paint it, and finding and gluing small letters just doesn't seem worth it.  I'm basically OK with leaving it "unnamed" as it were.  
 
The deck furniture is not yet installed and glued into place, mainly to allow me still work without snagging things.  The catheads are glued, don't really have a choice there, but working the masts into place around the other furniture seems difficult, so the deck is nice and clean right now.  Some exceptions, but there you go.
 
Now that I'm back home (long story, don't ask), I hope to make small bits of progress on the weekends, re-kindle my work and try to remember how to do what I've already forgotten. 
 
Andy.

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

Finally catching up on some of the comments - thanks all for the nice words.  As to modlerbob's other question about finishing as the actual POB II, I'm not sure.  I may leave off the tiny, tiny lettering the plans specify as I can't hand-paint it, and finding and gluing small letters just doesn't seem worth it.  I'm basically OK with leaving it "unnamed" as it were.  
 
The deck furniture is not yet installed and glued into place, mainly to allow me still work without snagging things.  The catheads are glued, don't really have a choice there, but working the masts into place around the other furniture seems difficult, so the deck is nice and clean right now.  Some exceptions, but there you go.
 
Now that I'm back home (long story, don't ask), I hope to make small bits of progress on the weekends, re-kindle my work and try to remember how to do what I've already forgotten. 
 
Andy.

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

Finally catching up on some of the comments - thanks all for the nice words.  As to modlerbob's other question about finishing as the actual POB II, I'm not sure.  I may leave off the tiny, tiny lettering the plans specify as I can't hand-paint it, and finding and gluing small letters just doesn't seem worth it.  I'm basically OK with leaving it "unnamed" as it were.  
 
The deck furniture is not yet installed and glued into place, mainly to allow me still work without snagging things.  The catheads are glued, don't really have a choice there, but working the masts into place around the other furniture seems difficult, so the deck is nice and clean right now.  Some exceptions, but there you go.
 
Now that I'm back home (long story, don't ask), I hope to make small bits of progress on the weekends, re-kindle my work and try to remember how to do what I've already forgotten. 
 
Andy.

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally catching up on some of the comments - thanks all for the nice words.  As to modlerbob's other question about finishing as the actual POB II, I'm not sure.  I may leave off the tiny, tiny lettering the plans specify as I can't hand-paint it, and finding and gluing small letters just doesn't seem worth it.  I'm basically OK with leaving it "unnamed" as it were.  
 
The deck furniture is not yet installed and glued into place, mainly to allow me still work without snagging things.  The catheads are glued, don't really have a choice there, but working the masts into place around the other furniture seems difficult, so the deck is nice and clean right now.  Some exceptions, but there you go.
 
Now that I'm back home (long story, don't ask), I hope to make small bits of progress on the weekends, re-kindle my work and try to remember how to do what I've already forgotten. 
 
Andy.

The next step after the filler blocks is the first strake below the waterways.  This single piece was glued at the edge of each bulkhead, tapered at the bow to fit into the rabbet.
 

 

 

 
Andy
 
 

This is the start of my build log for the Model Shipways kit Pride Of Baltimore II.
 
A little history before getting into the details.  I finished my last kit, the Mamoli USS Constitution cross section right at the beginning of the year.  After that ship, my first wood model, I wanted to do a complete, planked, hulled ship and the Pride of Baltimore fit the bill nicely.  A larger scale than my previous efforts (1:64 vs 1:96), plank-on-bulkhead, but not quite as large or complex as a full wood Constitution or Syren.  As I've mentioned before, I have a Syren waiting in the wings as my next build, so the Pride of Baltimore is a very nice transition model.
 
For anyone who's followed my previous ships, I do slow, but hopefully steady work.  I try to get a few hours in each weekend day and not let it sit for months at a time.  So, I'll typically update the log late on a Sunday.
 
The other thing I hope to accomplish with this log is getting answers to questions as I go along.  I've not done a plank-on-bulkhead model before, and while I've read a bunch of logs on the site here, doing one myself will undoubtedly be a different experience.  I'm already leery of planking, for example.  (Which is probably not unique)
 
Anyway, on to the build:
 
First, the latest Model Shipways kit does NOT have the keel in 2 pieces - it's a single formed piece and mine was perfectly flat and true (Yay!)
 
Here, I've cut the rabbett as best I could using a #11 blade and sandpaper:
 

 
Next, the keel is attached in a few pieces:
 

 
After that, the bulkheads were added.  Now, my bulkheads were all too thick to fit in the slots - the bulkheads were 3/16" thick, and the slots were about 5/32" wide.  So, I had to sand each bulkhead at the center so they would slid into the slots.  I used clamps and Legos to get a square fitting, as well as measuring the distance between bulkheads once the center bulkhead was glued.
 

 

 

 
This shows all the bulkheads glued in place.  I also added some side supports for the mast slots.
 

 
My next step is to fair (bevel) all the bulkheads.  I did not do this prior to gluing (perhaps I should have?), so I expect this to be time consuming.
 
Any advice on proper fairing techniques would be appreciated.
 
Andy.

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.