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Tigersteve

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  1. That curve looks much better, but watch how far you pushed the garboard forward. You may end up with too much taper on those remaking planks. Don’t forget mark off the hull with tick strips. I had to plank mine a second time due to an unfortunate tree-nailing incident. Check out Bob F’s log of the longboat for some inspiring work on this project. Steve
  2. I had received my copy of volume 3 before the holidays. Now that I have the correct CD sent from the publisher, I’d like to say some things about the whole package. Even after a quick look at the content included in the book, CD, and the 13 drawings, I can easily say that it’s extensive, wow! What a great resource Ed has put together. It would have been a shame to not have the correct CD, which includes several additional materials. The build log PDFs and rigging checklist are just some of the cherries on top. It’s worth purchasing even if just to find out how Ed contained the massive amount of rigging content into this single volume. It is well done. Steve
  3. Hull planking is complete. Several days of sanding and filling. I used 100 grit through 400 grit. After primer is applied I will see how much more work is necessary to achieve a smooth hull. The stern needs more sanding. I will sand more in that area after the keel and stern post are attached. A tip for those building this vessel in future. Add filler blocks for the first three bulkheads. This will show you if you have the correct shape and help with fairing and planking. I did not fair enough in some areas. The shape at the bow is tricky. Mine still needs work. Steve
  4. Careful with the sanding drum. May be better to use a sanding disc attachment. Easier to control. Steve
  5. Port side planking is complete. There’s more sanding and filling to do, but I will continue after I complete the starboard side. Rushing through some of this caused me to veer off my initial planking plan, which caused some problems and some weirdly shaped planks. Steve
  6. Just received my copy today. Looking forward to enjoying it. On first glance it looks well executed as expected. Steve
  7. Better to apply the wipe on poly after you have a satisfactory paint finish. I’ve found it difficult to apply paint coats over the wipe on poly. That would take many rounds of sanding and painting. Not impossible though. Steve
  8. Tamiya worked well for me. It’s fairly thin but you can thin it down with a bit of water and apply several thin coats until you have a nice finish. Sand between coats.
  9. Back to planking the remainder of the hull in basswood since this will be painted. Almost done with the first belt on the port side. I anticipate many rounds of sanding and filler. Not obsessing over this part of the planking, as I’m fairly sure I can get a nice surface for painting. A drop plank was created at the bow, which I may show in a later post. Nothing worth photographing at this point, but here’s a photo of some plank bending. Steve
  10. I think I had about 10 as well. Marking the frames will help keep your symmetry and the cap rail will finish it off nicely. I planked from the keel up and ended up redoing the top two strakes. Steve

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