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About Tigersteve

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  1. It’s a learning process for sure. You have a lot more sanding to do inboard and you should definitely use sandpaper on the basswood. Look up some images of longboats and alternate color schemes for painting. Try something no one has done before. You will feel better about it after you’ve sanded and painted. Steve
  2. I had trouble with this area of the project as well. I used maple for most of the project but for the inboard planking I used basswood. I think I also shaped the wood from a larger piece. That was a difficult curve. See post #116 in my log. Steve
  3. Gunports are complete. I used a thin strip of wood to mark the port openings. The vertical sections were cut at a 10 degree angle and sanded to fit. A mini 2” chop saw was invaluable for this task. I created a spacer for the gun port openings to make sure they were consistent widths. A photo is attached of the tools used. Fairing the hull is next. Steve
  4. Completed top and bottom of the gunport framing. The replacement bulkhead 2b is slightly smaller than the kit’s original so the gunport framing curves inward at that bulkhead. It should be fine after the hull is faired. These bulkheads have notches to accept the framing. Be sure to fit the framing strips deep into those notches. The strips were pre-bent with dry heat and spacers were used when gluing the top of the framing. Steve
  5. Yes, the seat template was tricky for me also. Looks good. Steve
  6. Yes- I think you will need to thin those down with water. It won’t change the color. You will just need many coats. Steve
  7. I think after you get the sekeleton of the model completed you should switch to a harder wood. Steve
  8. What a great first model. You are learning a lot from chuck’s practicum. Before you know it you will be sitting back looking at a completed model thinking to yourself, “I made that!” And then your wife will be asking, “where are we putting this thing? 😉 Steve

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