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Tigersteve

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  1. Thank you for the compliments. Means a lot coming from fine craftsman like yourselves. Steve
  2. Testor’s Dullcote does not react well with Tamiya paints. I was getting a spotty, eggshell type finish. To recover, I sanded the surfaces most affected and repainted. Lesson learned. Test finishes off model. I will be using different paints going forward. Also, do not use Wipe-On-Poly over paint unless you want a sheen. I wish I took this advice on previous models. I over worked the sanding of the oars and have requested replacement parts from Model Expo. While I wait for those parts, I will construct the buckets and start the rope work on the model. I purchased Syren rope for this. I worked on the layout for the nameplate. Measurements are 3.25” x .25”. I will get that made at a local trophy shop. Very inexpensive and adds a nice finishing touch to the project. Thank you Mike Stuntflyer and Ryland Craze for your assistance on the paint finishes. I learned a lot from our exchanges. Steve
  3. Sanding sticks were made using kit wood and a glue stick. These sizes were very handy for working on the cap rail. I also modified the transom to a more pleasing curve. Painting is very close to being finished. I am trying to avoid purchasing more paint as I have over diluted a couple of my colors. Oar construction is also underway. Color scheme (Tamiya Flat Paints); Exterior Hull: Flat Earth Interior Hull: Desert Yellow Cap rail/Gunwale: J.A. Green For the few following along- thank you for all the likes! Steve
  4. Completed display base. Next update will be after the cap rail is complete. As you can tell from my last two posts, this will take a while. There’s a lot of work necessary to get the model to an acceptable level. Steve
  5. The profile of the hull was used to trace a parallel line next to the cutout where the original cap rail piece was removed from the sheet. After the shape was roughly cut out, I moved the piece along 220 grit sandpaper that was wrapped around my finger. Kit basswood is good for this. All that is needed is your hobby knife and sandpaper. While the cap rail pieces get pre-painted before attaching to the hull, see the attached photo of my modified base parts. The original kit supplied base seemed oversized. The base was treated with pre-stain before applying a natural stain. Three coats of Wipe-On-Poly was applied with fine sanding in between. Steve
  6. Needed a break from painting so back to construction. I was finally able to install the first part of the cap rail. This was sanded flush with the gunwale. After the remaining pieces are installed, I will add some filler to any gaps and sand them flush. See the attached rough photo. Steve
  7. I’ve said it before. Mike’s projects make you elevate your own work. Just excellent! Thank you for raising the standard. Steve
  8. It looks good. These are some really difficult parts to make. Sometimes it’s good to step away for a bit. Each attempt will be better than the previous. Steve
  9. Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed. I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye. Steve
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