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  1. It’s looking excellent, Chuck. How is the learning curve with working with this wood? Specifically being able to avoid leaving dents since it’s very soft. Steve
  2. After messaging Chuck, I adjusted the planking band as there was too much taper. I took a different approach and marked ten planks on most bulkheads and adjusted the tape to a smooth curve. Chuck suggested adding a drop plank, which will result in one less plank terminating at the bow. I will follow this plan and also add a stealer at the stern. Although below the whales will be painted, I wanted to use this project to improve my planking technique. Steve
  3. Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. Steve
  4. I would use a long free cloth wrapped around your finger and rub your finger between the ribs. Direction doesn’t matter too much on the inside of the hull. Floorboards will cover some of the finish anyway. What stain color did you decide? Steve
  5. Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. Steve
  6. Port side planking is complete. Two coats of wipe-on-poly applied at this point. I hope the photos show how nice this batch of cherry wood is. Steve
  7. Chuck- Your tutorials are so clear. People are lucky you’ve provided templates for lining off the hull. Next, people will be asking you to mail them completed models. 😆 Steve
  8. Now that the initial phase of hull planking is almost complete, I thought it would be useful to share the method I’ve been using to plank around this tricky bow. 1. Measure 80% of the 1/8” plank width and mark at the tip of the plank. It’s .1”. I use digital calipers for this. Mark 3” from the edge of the plank and draw a line from this point to mark the taper. I sand up to this line by running the plank across a 220 grit sanding block. 2. Bevel the plank to fit against the previously laid plank on the hull. 3. Soak the plank in hot water for 5-10 minutes. (This is the only time I use water.) 4. Clamp the plank to the hull and heat the plank until it’s dry. Let it cool. 5. Mark the butt joint and sand. Test fit on the hull. 6. When you have a nice fit, mark the edge of the plank to simulate caulking. 7. Apply glue and re-clamp. For the hot water I use a Keurig. I keep a disposable coffee cup in my work area. This works well since the plank lengths at the bow are short. I’ve included a photo of the clamping. Steve
  9. Two more strakes to go port side. The gun ports are much sharper with a more consistent rabbet. The planking on this side is coming out much cleaner. I will most likely close the gun ports starboard and leave the ones port side open. I’m learning a lot from this initial planking. Steve
  10. People think everything is going to magically sand clean after sloppily planking. Don’t know why. The cleaner it is before you sand, the cleaner it will be after. One piece at a time! Steve

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