AndyMech

Next up is the 2nd largest hatch - the main salon companion way and trunk.  This took me a little over 2 weeks to complete, it's the first to have a planked top and some very small and thin molding.
 
The main issue I had, after creating the initial box, was to get the edges to overhang by 1/32".  I wanted this to be as precise and consistent as possible.  The box itself is created with 3/64" thick walls, which one the forward and aft edges, meant there was only 1/64" of available gluing space for the 1/32" frame.  
 
Here was my solution:
 

 
I used clips to sandwich a 1/32" thick scrap piece between the edge of the frame and another piece to mark the edge of the piece to glue.  I did this on all 4 sides, then glued in the larger of the edge pieces first:
 

 
With those in place, I managed to glue the thinner fore/aft edging:
 

 
Now, I made each plank to fit the newly formed frame, labeled them and stained them before gluing.
 

 
The rest is more-or-less straightforward:  plank the top, create the sliding hatch and small access hatch with portlights:
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is on the ship:
 

 
Also, I did add 1/32" x 1"64" molding below the top by sanding down a 1/16" x "1/32 to 1/64" thick and the slicing it in half.  The resulting pieces are super fragile and difficult to manipulate, but I was able to glue them in well.
  I hope to repeat these techniques for the final, largest hatch, at least for the framing and planking.  The hatches on top will be different, but no new skills required, I hope.
 
 
Andy.

Ok, this weekend I finished up the Engine Access hatch.  
 
First, I created the 4 sides, lettering them to know which to glue to which:
 

 

 
I added a thin 1/32" roof, and stained and glued it to the frame, after painting the frame.
 

 
The plans call for 2 small 1/64" steel rods to be hung by some very very small mounts on the side of the hatch.  I used 26 gauge electrical wire from work, and made the wood mounts with lots of careful filing and sanding.
 

 
Finally, the top hatches - one on each side, and each has a portlight installed at the top.  I used 1/32" inch wood for this, and sanded the extensions down to 1/64 as best I could.  The top hatch covers were also sanded down to 1/64" thickness.
 

 

 

 
Andy.

I'm still painting, and plan on blackening eyebolts and gluing those in soon.  For now, here are the inner bulwark planks painted a "white grey", closest I could get to the cream specified by the plans:
 

 

 
Andy.

I finished planking the bulwarks today.  Sorry for the poor quality of the photos, the light wasn't the greatest this afternoon.
 
The continuous scupper between gunports 2 and 5 is at 1/32", so pretty noticeable.  I also had to add a basically a stealer when doing the port planking at the transom to fill a gap, but it's barely visible.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I think next would be to try and finish the transom - add the framing pieces (fancy piece) and the sides as well as the center decorations.  Also, next up is some of the railing details - pin rails, add the eyebolts, ladders, etc.
 
Andy.

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Hola :
 
After almost 3 weeks I advanced a little:
1:  fixing the masts and topmasts in their places taking care on the aligment
2: Installing the fore lower yard
3: Placing the booms on the masts
4: Begin the shrouds rigging  and,
5: Initiate the bowsprit rigging including the protection net
 
Saludos, Karl

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Hi Russ, thanks for the suggestion.  I never think of using paper, although I've see it used quite effectively in many build logs.  Oh well, a thought for the future.
 
I finished the port and starboard bitts.  These are made from 3/32" square stock and I used some leftover 1/32x1/64 from the previous boxes to make the cross part.  The dowel in the bottom is just the end of a toothpick.
 

 

 
Andy.
 
 

It's been a couple of weeks, but here's a quick post showing the final two deck boxes I did a week or so ago.  Pretty straightforward, the only tricky bit are framing on the top - those are tiny - 1/32" by 1/64.
 

 

 
Next up, and in progress, are two deck bitts and the sampson posts.  Hopefully and update next week.
 
Andy

Hola:
Following with booms, yards and Gaffs. In some of these cases the instructions are not so clear and some of the materials needed are not provided (for example the "iron rings") and must to find out how to do them.
 
Now I must decide if include sails or not and in this case if if they will be furled or not 
 
Saludos, Karl
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

I had a good 3-day weekend on the ship.  On Friday, I finished the lifts on all three masts and tied in the blocks to the crosstrees in preparation for doing the leech and bunt lines.
 
Saturday and Sunday, I completed the leech and bunt lines (step 5).  The upper ones tied off on the fight top railing, the lower ones through blocks and tied off at a railing.
 
I skipped step 4 for now so as not to work around those lines (sheets).  I'm going to look through the instructions and rig those lines that tie off near the mast base prior to doing some of the outside lines.  Next up will be rigging the bowsprit left and right, including the studding sail boom.
 
Andy
 
Foremast:

 
Mainmast:

 
Full ship as she stands:

I only had one day this weekend to work, but I feel I got a lot done.  I had finished the main mast lower halyard on Tuesday, and today completed the mizzen mast lower halyard.  The mizzen was easier as it was just one side, there was no balancing the left and right sides.
 
Mainmast:
 

 
Mizzen mast lower halyard:
 

 
I had some confusion on where to put the blocks on the mast tops for the top gallant halyard, and I ended up drilling a small hole in the top near the railing to tie the block:
 

 
Next, I was able to rig all three masts top gallant halyards:
 


 
 

As promised, the main mast jeers.  I spent the rest of the day today tying blocks to the crosstrees and chainplate ledges in preparation for the halyards.  FYI, for anyone following the Revell instructions, the mizzenmast halyard apparently only goes to the starboard side, and I re-used the same eyebolt used for the backstays.  The other two masts had a free eyebolt just ahead of the backstays.  I hope this is correct.
 

 
The mainmast jeer drops and is tied to the railing - there is no pin to attach it for some reason.

I finished adding the yard supports on all three masts -- only for the lowest yard.
 

 
Next was adding the jeers.  I started with the foremast.  The instructions call for the jeer blocks be 3 1/2 inches apart.  I found that 3 inches (for the foremast) was a better distance - maybe 3 1/8, but it allows for a better separation between blocks.
 
See for yourself.
 



 
Next up, the jeers on the mainmast.
 
Andy.

It's been a couple of weeks, but here's a quick post showing the final two deck boxes I did a week or so ago.  Pretty straightforward, the only tricky bit are framing on the top - those are tiny - 1/32" by 1/64.
 

 

 
Next up, and in progress, are two deck bitts and the sampson posts.  Hopefully and update next week.
 
Andy

Hi Russ, thanks for the suggestion.  I never think of using paper, although I've see it used quite effectively in many build logs.  Oh well, a thought for the future.
 
I finished the port and starboard bitts.  These are made from 3/32" square stock and I used some leftover 1/32x1/64 from the previous boxes to make the cross part.  The dowel in the bottom is just the end of a toothpick.
 

 

 
Andy.
 
 

Hi Russ, thanks for the suggestion.  I never think of using paper, although I've see it used quite effectively in many build logs.  Oh well, a thought for the future.
 
I finished the port and starboard bitts.  These are made from 3/32" square stock and I used some leftover 1/32x1/64 from the previous boxes to make the cross part.  The dowel in the bottom is just the end of a toothpick.
 

 

 
Andy.
 
 

Hi Russ, thanks for the suggestion.  I never think of using paper, although I've see it used quite effectively in many build logs.  Oh well, a thought for the future.
 
I finished the port and starboard bitts.  These are made from 3/32" square stock and I used some leftover 1/32x1/64 from the previous boxes to make the cross part.  The dowel in the bottom is just the end of a toothpick.
 

 

 
Andy.
 
 

It's been a couple of weeks, but here's a quick post showing the final two deck boxes I did a week or so ago.  Pretty straightforward, the only tricky bit are framing on the top - those are tiny - 1/32" by 1/64.
 

 

 
Next up, and in progress, are two deck bitts and the sampson posts.  Hopefully and update next week.
 
Andy