shipmodel

Hi Daniel - and Happy New Year -
 
Coming along nicely at such a small scale.
 
Budriot's plans show a very tall stern with two banks of high windows.  That does not fit with the Advice Prize draught, so I lowered the transom in Photoshop and got this.  Perhaps it will be of some help to you.
 

 
Be well
 
Dan

I decided I needed a break from half-frames.  So for a few days I've been doing some prosthetic work on my Admiral's fake leg.  So far, I haven't screwed it up even though I'm hitting it with a heat gun,  dremel and cut off wheel, and tolulene.
 
As time permits, I cleaned up the salvaged keelson along with the salvaged fore and main mast steps.  The keelson is now glued into position after tweaking the fit and the mast steps are fitted but not glued.  There's markings inside for re-fitting them into position and also marked up the exterior for drilling and fitting the pedestals.    As soon as I can figure out a way to drill them square in all dimensions (not a square hole but exactly perpendicular) I'll do it.  This beast is too big for the drill press or the mill... <sigh> 
 
Also, minimal fairing at this point on the inside of the hull.
 
Anyway... picture.  And as always, errors, omissions, and stupid mistakes, while not always intentional are subject to be commented upon by those who read this.
 

Part three:
 
Crosstree area.

 
Metal work.  Gaff halyard blocks are mounted with open hooks.

 
Throat Halyard.  Shackled at the top with a heart iron and at the bottom hooks into the spectacle iron.

 
Bottom of boom showing the eye for the sail throat, also a good view of the spectacle iron.

 
At present the parrals are just tiny beads.

 
The end of the gaff fitting for peak of main sail, side block for the top sail clew halyard and an eye for the gaff vang.

 
That’s it for now.  If anyone wants more, just ask.
 
Bob
 

Part two:
 
Front block of the boom guy.  When going down wind this would be fastened forward on the rail to prevent jibing.

 
Aft boom guy block and upper sheet block.

 
End of boom showing band for sail clew and topping lift rigging.

 

 
I'm trying to break this up so it makes sense.
 
More to follow.
 
Bob

Keith, this one’s for you.  First, thanks for your appreciative words and wanting to know more.   For the size of the blocks, the sheet blocks are 18”, the throat halyard blocks are 15” and all others are 10”.  Now on to the pictures.
 
The admiral wanted lots of gold color on the boat, so the hoops are slices of tubing.

 
Since the boom does not travel up and down so it is captured with a simple bail. 

 
There should be a plate on top of the shelf for the boom to ride on.  Pins are just splinters for now.

 

 

 
More to follow.
 
Bob
 

Well after 3 kits I think I am up to the challenge.  The Maine was commissioned in 1895.  She was sent to Cuba during their revolt against Spain to protect US interests.  Despite being out of date when  built the Mainh was considered an advance  in American naval design.  In 1898 the Maine suffered an explosion which killed most of the crew.  At the time the explosion was used as an excuse for the US to enter the conflict.  Now it is believed that dust from the coal bunkers caused a flash explosion. 
  The first thing I did was look over the plans and the instructions.






David B
 

Still slogging away in the shipyard...  aft half-frames are still a work in progress.
 
However, I've been doing research and discovered via some very nice PM's with Mr. Delacroix that I have errors... and Hahn also....  other than the framing.
 
1) I've had to correct the history on the first page of this log.  This vessel was never known as "Unicorn" while in the RN service but as "HMS Licorne".  It was sold out in 1783.
 
2) From Hahn's article, he was advised to use the Le Venus information for rigging and certain other bits and pieces.  I've been advised to use La Belle-Poule for rigging and best practices as it is closer in time and more correct.  I've placed an order for the monograph from ANCRE and eagerly await it's arrival.
 
3) The breeching rings on the bulward should be through bolts with washers and forelocks on the outside of the hull.
 
4)  What I thought was an air port between gunports 11 and 12 is actually a window/light port.  It will be glazed.
 
5)  Referencing port lids:  In the French Navy frigates have no port-lids to their port. They are eventually closed by false port-lids in bad weather, simple square panel of light wood pierced for the passage of the gun. Nothing in common with the real port-lids. It was not until the early nineteenth century to observe French frigates with port-lids.
 
I am indebted to Mr. Delacroix for this information.
 
So.. back to cutting and gluing frames for now.

Hi again, and best wishes for a happy Friday the 13th –
 
Thanks for the compliments, likes, and wishes for my new grandson.  Caleb and his mother are both doing well and send their thanks as well.
 
Several smaller items were completed in this segment.  The first was the forward bulkhead for the captain’s cabin.  There are no plans or drawings of it in either of the plans that I am using, so I designed it to be functional, using some of the same details as on the stern and quarter badges. 
 

 
There is a chair rail molding with wainscoting below.  This was not scribed but laid up from individual planks.  The door is of a typical 17th Century style, with H-L hinges and decorative cross banding.  The windows are flanked by fluted columns which were built up as before.  To each side there will be a ladder to the poop deck, which have not yet been constructed.  The bulkhead is still removable at this stage, and may have to be moved back a little to give me room to install the whipstaff which will go between the cabin and the mizzen mast.
 
I have not decided whether to paint the wainscoting blue and add some decorative details.  What does the group think?
 
The cabin was also dressed up by closing in the aftmost gunport with a decorative shutter.  The central circle was made by stiffening a 1/8” birch dowel with a drop of thin cyano on its cut end.  When dry the center of the dowel was drilled out to a depth of about ¼” and then the circles were parted off on the table saw.
 

 
Next I turned to the first of the rigging fixtures – the staghorns.  Here is a section of my plans for the inner bulwarks, which was made by using PhotoShop to combine the plans from the Advice Prize with details from Le Mercure.  You can see three of the four staghorns that will be mounted on each side.
 

 
Here is an enlargement of the plans for the staghorns.  Note in the side view the extreme angles that have to be used to match the 13 degree tumblehome of the bulwarks.
 

 
I started by carving a length of pear to the shape of the horns of the fitting.  The piece was just under 3 inches long, which gave me extra material for the next model as well.  Here you can see three horns that have been parted off.  They are a little heavy, but were later reduced with a small sanding drum.
 

 
The shelf that supports the horns was built up in two parts.  In the larger, back piece, two notches were nibbled out for the horns before being closed in by the front piece.  In the insert enlargement you can see how the curve of the table saw blade gave me an angle to the back of the notch that is needed to allow the horns to angle to match the tumblehome.
 

 
With the horns inserted in the shelf the bottom piece had two notches hollowed out in its back face for the lower ends of the horns.
 

 
The lower piece was flipped over and the horns glued into the notches.  The lower piece was then sanded to its clamshell shape and the upper ends of the horns were refined to angle up and out.  You can see the differences from the left fitting to the completed one on the right.
 

 
Here you can see a finished staghorn sitting on an angled scrap block to check that the shelf will be horizontal when mounted on the bulwark.
 

 
Here is the complete set of eight staghorns for the first model.
 

 
And here is the first one mounted in the waist ready for the lines that run through the hull sheaves for the main and spritsail sheets.
 

 
Next I turned to the gunport lids for the open gunports on the port side of the ship.  I have detailed their construction before in the section on the test gun station.  This one is for the forwardmost port, which is why the planking runs at an angle to match the hull planking.  The hinge straps are blackened brass strip secured with three iron pins.  The ends of the strips were ground to about half their width so they could fit into mounting holes in the hull.
 

 
The strips were all made to a uniform size in a simple jig.  A brass strip was trapped between two guides and the locations of the holes for the mounting pins was marked off.  Once the holes were drilled the strip was clipped to length at the edge of the jig.  I found that without pre-drilling these holes it was nearly impossible for me to drill them cleanly once the hinge strap was mounted on the gunport lid.
 

 
Each lid was marked for its proper location and the mounting holes were drilled just above the open gunport.  With the lids slid into the holes the brass could be gently bent so every lid was at the same angle.  This will be a significant advantage once they are permanently mounted, as they will be much less prone to snapping off when I bump into them (which I am sure that I will).  Here they are towards the bow - - -
 

 
And the stern.
 

 
To check them, I set the guns in place.  Here is what they look like in the waist as seen from outboard - - -
 

 
And along the length of the ship.
 

 
Finally, the entire broadside. 
 

 
I was happy with the look of the model, so the guns and gunport lids were removed to safe storage until the interior deck fittings are built and mounted.
 
The first of these was the riding bitts for the anchor cable.  As you can see from the plans it incorporates the 5-sheave post for the rigging to the ramshead block that raises and lowers the foreyard.
 

 
Construction was straightforward, with each piece cut and shaped, then notched and pinned in place.  The sheaves in the post are non-working, and made by drilling 5 pairs of holes through the post with a 0.040” drill in a miniature drill press.  The bitt was then put into a Dremel and the sheave slot between the holes was carved out.  Care has to be taken to allow for the right-hand torque of the bitt, but a little practice yields good results.
 

 
The next rigging fitting that I turned to were the multiple cleat ‘logs’ that sit just aft of the fore and main masts.  These were discussed earlier in the build log as well. 
 
Construction here was straightforward as well.  Once the dimensions were decided, two pieces of cherry were cut and the ends finished with slopes.  The underside of each was sanded to match the camber of the deck.  Ten slots were cut in the underside for the lines to run through.  It is quite probably that these slots would have been radiused on each side of the log so the line would run smoothly under the fixture.  The upper corners of the log were eased as well, as recommended by JerseyCityFrankie.  Matching photoetched brass cleats were obtained from Bluejacket, blackened and mounted. 
 

 
Here is the one on the quarterdeck aft of the main mast.  It looks good as is, although I clearly have to clean the deck which is getting very dusty.
 

 
Finally, to check that things are headed in the right direction, and to give my spirits a needed lift, I mounted the decks and the lower masts.  Hull construction and detailing have taken much, much longer than anticipated, but I can see some light at the end of the tunnel.  I just hope that it is not the oncoming train known as “RIGGING”.
 

 
Be well
 
Dan
 
 
 

Hi all –
 
Thanks for your comments and suggestions.  I plan to incorporate them into the second iteration of the boat which will be built when the hardwood strips arrive from the supplier.
 
When we left the shipyard the hull of the boat had been fully planked with the shutter planks fitted on both sides.  The hull had been marked out in pencil for the rib locations in preparation for the nails which would have fastened the planks to the ribs.  Here you can see the lines for all of the ribs that sit square to the keel as well as for the two cant ribs, drawn on the port side of the hull.
 

 
For the fasteners I had to find a way to make them look right without devoting an excessive amount of time to the task.  Since there are 11 planks on each side, 25 rib or transom/stem lines that the planks cross, and two fasteners per crossing, the math says that there have to be 1100 fasteners for the exterior of each boat.  Add in some more for the interior work and you can see the magnitude of the problem. 
 
The original boat probably had the planks nailed to the ribs, with the ends peened over to clinch them.  I experimented with a plank/rib mockup and could never get the holes in the planks to come through the ribs in the proper places.  Instead, I decided to drill the holes through only the planks and worry about indicating the nails on the inside of the ribs later.
 
I first drilled all the holes.  Here you can see how there are two in each plank in an offset pattern.  I used a 0.012” drill, which scales up to 1/2”, which would be about right.
 

 
At first I tried inserting pieces of annealed iron wire into the holes, clipping them short, painting them with glue, then filing the tops flush with the face of the planks.  This was incredibly time consuming and fiddly.  I then decided to try the technique of leaving the holes empty, sanding the planks to fill the holes with sawdust, then painting on a finish to hold in the sawdust.  This looked good and I don’t believe that anyone can tell the difference with this short cut.
 
  *   *   *
Aarrrgh, scalawag that ye are!  Ye’ll not be taking any modern short cuts with me boats.  I be Dread Pirate Peter, and I’ll have yer guts fer garters if ye dinna do a manly and proper piece of work. 
 

 
No, no, it will be OK.  Really it will.  Here, this is what the nail holes look like after filling and staining.  I have had several critical people, including my wife, compare them to the ones with the iron nails in them and no one could tell the difference.  In fact, the slightly spread discoloration of the wood grain closely mimics the way old wood stains when a nail rusts into it.
 

 
*   *   *
Tis all very well and comely, but rest ye not on yer laurels, lest ye rest on yer ****.  I be watching ye. . .
 
*   *   *
Soooo, with that out of the way, I turned to fitting out the interior.  First the missing ribs were bent and fitted into the interior.  These were the two cant ribs at the bow and the aftmost rib at Station 21 that had been left off to make planking easier. 
 
The first interior piece to be installed was the tapered central plank of the flooring.  It strengthens the keel and is the location for the lifting rings and mast step.
 

 
To each side the rest of the floor planks were installed.  They are not tapered but fit against the tapered center plank due to the curvature of the hull.  They are held in place while the glue dries by inexpensive hair clips from the cosmetics section of the drug store.  They initially look like the one at the lower left, but are easily bent by hand to the shape in the lower right.  This now allows them to reach around the hull to apply pressure at the tips.
 

 
Next to be installed are the sheets, the planked platforms at the bow and stern.  They will appear in later photos, but I did not take pictures as they were being built.  Construction is straightforward.  Planks were glued to a pair of battens underneath to make a flat sheet larger than needed.  A paper pattern is cut to fit the space and the wood sheet is cut to that shape.  The edges are bevelled to match the curve of the hull and it is glued in place to the ribs.
 
Now the thwart stringers are installed.  I first bent one piece of  stripwood to shape and glued it in on the starboard side at the height indicated on the plans.  The matching strip was bent and trimmed for the port side and held in place temporarily while I balanced pieces of stripwood across from side to side and set perpendicular to the keel.  These are known in woodworking as ‘winding sticks’ although I don’t know why.  Looking across their tops you can easily see any variation from side to side and any tipping compared to the centerline and the edge of the sheets.  Once I was satisfied with the levels, the port stringer was glued in place. 
 

 
The plans show square section wood pieces running side to side just under the thwart stringers near the bow and stern.  They have a short section in the center that has a round cross section.  I do not know what they were for, but perhaps the rounded section would have a halyard led around it when the sail was raised, sort of a non-turning sheave.  Whatever they are they were shaped, fitted and glued in.
 
The lifting rings and mast step were located and attached to the central floor plank.  I also drilled the nail holes for the floors and sheets as I did for the hull planks.  My one regret is that I did not do this for the ribs at this point when they were exposed.  It turned out to be too crowded later – a detail that will be corrected on the next boats.
 
The thwarts were cut from 1mm thick stock, with the middle one being wider in the center and having added knees.  It holds and supports the metalwork that acts as the mast partner.  This fitting is made from brass strip which is chemically blackened, then glued and pinned with wire nails to the edge of the thwart.  A decorative beading was scribed into the edges of the thwarts, then they were installed on top of the stringers with spacers between them.
 

 
Unfortunately, once the thwarts were installed it was clear that they were sitting too high in the boat.  No rowers could have sat on them and had their feet reach the floor for leverage.  Here the flexibility of the Lineco glue came to my rescue.  With the tip of a #10 blade I was able to pry up the thwarts from the stringers and then remove the stringers without any damage to the hull or ribs.
 

 
The stringers were lowered 6 scale inches and reinstalled, followed by the thwarts, which looked much better after the adjustment.  I went back to the plans and determined that the problem was there and not in my measuring or building.  Just one of those problems that had to be built to be discovered.
 

 
Fitting out the rest of the interior is self-explanatory.  Working up from the thwarts the stern seats were planked up over battens.  They sit on top of the thwart stringers and the aftmost thwart.  The foremost thwart has a pair of knees set on top.
 
Square section stringers were fitted and glued to the inner sides of the sheer strake so their tops matched, and were strengthened at the bow by a breasthook and at the stern by two transom knees.  Thole blocks were set on top of the sheer strakes and stringers and will be drilled for the thole pins to be added later.  The locations of several of these had to be adjusted from the plans, which did not have them at a consistent distance from the associated thwart.
 

 
The only difficult woodworking came at the bow where the curved and carved fairleads on either side of the stem were joined with a double-dovetailed cross-support.
 


 
With the boat all but complete the rudder was fashioned to match the plans.  Two planks were fitted and tapered, then cut to the proper profile.  The pintle straps were made from brass strip, pinned through with iron wire and chemically blackened.  The tiller is brass bar that was tapered and blackened, with an epoxy bulb at its tip.
 

 
Top and bottom gudgeons were fashioned from blackened brass strip.  The upper one simply slipped into a hole drilled into the aft face of the sternpost, while the lower one had to be bent in several directions before being pinned against the sides of the sternpost.  It only remained for the thole pins to be installed and the boat was complete.
 

 
*    *    *
So ye think ye be quite clever, do ye? Quite the boat builder?  I be the judge of that.  I also bring me great-great-great grandson Peter who says he has worked with ye before.  He be a great galoot of a puppy, but he be useful to judge yer work.  He set up this temporary mast and I grant ye that said boat be mightily even side to side.
 

 
He sits well in the stern and nothing pulls my eye to say that he could not reach and steer the tiller, should he take it into his head to do some work, the lazy lout that he be.
 

 
It shivers me innards to grudge ye my approval, but i’ faith I canna find much to dislike.  But be warned that I will no be put off with such minor success.  Ye must do as well or better, or feel me wrath fall upon ye like to the Trump of Doom.
 


 
Well, there you have it.  The second boat will be made from hardwoods now that most of the construction problems have been identified, although I am sure that new ones will appear and demand solutions.  Those may be harder to find while looking over my shoulder all the time; Dread Pirate Peter seems to have very high standards, and a very short temper.
 
Till then, be well.
 
Dan

Hi Mark -
 
I go away for a few weeks and look at all your progress.  She's coming along very nicely.  That's a new technique for me on the gunports.  Thanks for the how-to photos.
 
And a belated Happy Birthday.
 
Be well
 
Dan

As always Dan I learn something knew every time you post.
David B

David a lift gate, can you elaborate?
 
Nils, thanks but I needed to rework the handle to accommodate the bowsprit.
 
Today I oiled the deck and fitted the main bowsprit hardware.
 

 
Then reworked the handle.
 

 

 
Next I will add some guides for the hull to find the keel track. then give it a coat of paint
 
Michael

Thank you for the likes.
 
Pete, I am melting a few weights every day now, and so far I am up to 25lbs.
 
Steve you are probably right, Apart from the Skipjack launch I am already thinking about the next cutter.
 

 
I felt like getting the trolly finished so worked on it today, it looks a little whimsical but I like the ergonomics of it.
 

 

 
it is a good height for moving to the water.
 

 
Now it just needs a coat of paint. and it will be ready for the cutter's next ballast test.
 
Michael

John, Druxey, Lextin, Grant, Omega, Mark, Sherry. Thank you all for your encouragement with all you positive comments. thanks to all those who added likes.
 
Well I needed to get this next part out of my system, so Jude and I went down to the lake with a bucket of used wheel balance weights and the cutter. to get an idea of what I am dealing with, so this was a test not an official launch.
 

 
it took a while to add them all 60lbs a few at a time, the folk on the beach must have thought we were nuts.
 

 
We ran out of weights so I will need to get another bucket or two.
 
Took a few pics of it floating.
 

 

 
and this is my favorite shot of the day.
 

 
A number of lessons learned
 
1. It will be very heavy because I need a lot more weight to get it another 2 1/2 inches lower in the water
2. the weights will need to be set up so that they can be easily added and removed.
3. I will need a launching vehicle with small bicycle wheels to launch after the weights are added.
4 it was not pleasant lifting the boat out of the water with all the weight in it.
5. the weight was more forward than I expected it to be.
6. total weight was 66lbs with the stand
Tomorrow I will empty the weights out of the hold.
 
Michael

Afraid you will have to wait just a little longer John, and Pete too.
 
Bottom coat done
 

 

 
One thing I learned as a professional model-builder making architectural models is that it is best to remove all masking as soon as is possible while the paint is still soft but flashed off.
 

 
Tonight I will mask the bottom and work on the areas above the waterline. Also this evening I will visit the paint store one last time for the top paint, because I am still not fully convinced that I have the right colour.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thank you all for your considered comments regarding the colour and for all the likes.
 
Preparations are underway for the final painting, I purchased some masking tape for delicate and fresh paint surfaces. I set the roll up on the lathe and created a 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch division in order to deal with the soft curve.
 
The water line was set with the laser light beam then cross checked with a pencil attached to a scribing block.
 

 

 
The tape went on well and tomorrow I will finish the light sanding and if there is no wind I will start the painting.
 
Michael

Thank you all for you kind remarks and likes.
 
"To see her on the shore looks so authentic. The primer and paint patches only adds to that! Almost a shame to paint her!"
Sven, Don't think I didn't think about it.
 
"what a wonderful way to get kids away from the computer and into model building. Also, I'm with Sven. It's almost as if all you need is to paint a weathered waterline and then the ship would be complete;"
 
Omega, getting the kids to work on the boats was easy they seemed to understand the need to use their hands in a creative way.
 
 
I had a bit of spare time this evening after a nap, so decided to give Walter a hand preparing for the final painting of the hull.
 

 
I was quite surprised by how long it took to remove everything, it was over an hour and a half, and i had to put my thinking cap back on to remember the sequences of a couple of items especially at the stem.
 
here are a couple of containers of parts.
 

 
Almost ready for some light sanding, then to paint.
 

 
I an definitly leaning toward a dark hull like these
 
here is a link to Classic Sailing
 
Michael

I mentioned above about how I cut gunports.   So here's how I do it.  I make no guarantees that it's the best way but it works for me. 
 
First up is a laminated frame blank (I'm using a half frame as the full frames are done).
 
 
I then rubber cement the frame plan to it and carefully cut it out.

 
I fit the frame into position and check all the reference points both against the plans and in situ using the EdT tool. After that, the reference points are etched using the scroll saw and the frame cuts are made with the saw pictured.

 
I soak the joint in 91% isopropyl and wrap in a scarp of paper towel which is also soaked in the isopropyl.

 
The joint is then wrapped in plastic wrap and secured at each end with clothes pins (pegs) so as not let the whole frame separate.

 
After doing something else for about a half an hour, I grab the frame with pliers and piece to be removed with a pair of cutters.

 
A slight pull and the piece comes out, usually cleanly. 

 
At this point, the frame is glued into place, space blocks added between the newly installed frame and the existing frame, everything clamped and the glue allowed to cure.  After curing, I double check all reference points, just in case....
 
I hope this helps someone.
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in and commenting Danny, Sam, Cabrapente, David, and Sjors.
 
Murphy apparently took a few days off (thank heavens) as things went well. 
 
Sam, if I remember, I'll do a quick photo essay when I cut the next gunport which will be later in the week.
 
I got the hull (what there is of it so far) faired out close.  It will still need work but that will come after the cant frames which is the next project.   There's still some low spots and high spots but overall, pretty close.
 
I also reshaped/reworked the rabbet so the planking will set right.   It was tedious and had me sweating blood but worth every second of it.
 
The keel has glued on and sits square and level with everything. 
 

Minor milepost... all the full frames have been cut, installed and spacers added.  The five broken ones have been replaced along with slapping myself upside the head when I realized two of them could have been repaired.   
 
I've started "pre-fairing" in that I'll sand it pretty close to fair except for the frames at the end, get the keel and keelson notches flat and fair, and then tweek the keel's rabbet to account for the changes the garboard strake will have to follow.  I'm also sorting out the inboard side as far as fairing.  The end frames will be faired in once the keel and keelson are installed and the cant frames are done. 
 
And yes, it continues to be a fun ride.
 

Well....She's in.  It was a tough battle and she looks it.  
 

 

 
The mizzen sail came partially off and I couldn't fix it with out removing the ship.  The sails in general had trouble and I also lost some rat lines.  Not the best ship I've ever built but this ship was experimental and I learned a lot so I am happy with that.  I'll try this scale again some time and see if I can't do better.  For now I want to get back into my normal scale and a log on the super small ship's I've built.     

Last sails done.  She's ready to bottle.  
 

 

 

Thank you Greg, Jay, Mark, Bedford, Nils, Grant, John E, Bob, Druxey, Remco, and Mark Taylor for all your positive remarks.
 
"Two things I take from that are that you have a MUCH easier rig to unship than I do"
 
Bedford 5 minutes to de-rig, and 20 to re-rig I found out today at the pavillion.
 
"I asume rigged mast and topsail shall nearly be scratching the room cealing."
 
Nils the ceiling in the living room is 10 foot 3 inches so it will be about 3 feet shy
 
All in all the event was very successful, I had a table set up for children to make paper dorys, most of the visitors were young girls and they built 13 dorys during the afternoon, at the end of the day there was a young boy who came, The photographer came around late in the day, so missed the girls in action building their boats.
 

 
There was a lot of positive feedback regarding the pilot cutter.
 
After the event I went outside because there was a bit of commotion on the beach, seems that a boat had been stranded.
 

 
 
 
 
Close but still dry.
 
 
Now to remove the deck hardware and rigging completely so that I can finish painting the hull. and the rest of the seizings and other rigging details.
 
 
 
 
Michael

Finally got a little more done on the QAR. She's really close I hope to have her done soon.  Just a few more spars and sails then I got to prep the bottle and put her in.  I've chosen to have the main sails furled.  Partly because its a little easier, shows the deck better, and is a standard battle position which is fitting for this ship.  
 

 
 
Also I had posted a little sloop I did for a kid that was researching pirate ships.  Since I had so much fun with it and I gave the other one away I had to do another.  I should do a full log on these because they really are so quick and simple.  It would be a great build fo some one who wants to get into the real miniature building.  
 

thank you to one and All for your kind remarks and encouragement, I will be painting the hull within a couple of weeks.
 
On Friday I will be taking the pilot cutter to the Seba Pavilion (a stones throw from the water) for a local library summer programming activity launch) no not the cutter but I decided not to rush things and try to get a finish paint on the hull for Friday but to see how easy it will be to de-rig and re-rig her, so to that end I dropped the mast with the minimum of fuss by just slackening the shrouds, that's the nice thing about mounting on the deck I did not have to pull the mast out of the hull. the whole operation took about 5 minutes.
 

 
My it does look big in the living room.
 
Michael