Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

1,309 profile views
  1. Hi Toni - An excellent idea and project. From the look of the finished hull, you are incorporating most of the techniques and details that a ship modeler needs to learn. This epitomizes what I think should be central to the Guild's mission - setting standards for achievement and then teaching and demonstrating how to reach them. I will be following along with great interest. Dan
  2. Hi Gary - Outstanding realism, as always. Love the broken window. Maybe you could add some clear tape 'repairs' to protect the crew. Dan
  3. Hi Druxey - Is this the one that sold at the Miller Auction Gallery in 2009 for 384,000 pounds? Dan
  4. Good day, Mr. Hoving - Like Druxey, I have been a fan of yours for decades. Your techniques have informed my work, and although I have not been called on to build a Dutch sailing ship, all your books are in my library if needed. If I ever get away from the people who pay me to build models, a Dutch 17th century warship is on the short list for a personal project. I am also eagerly following along. Seeing how you improve, replace, or minimize your "mistakes" will be the icing on the cake. Dan
  5. Hi Mark and Marc and all - I understand that the oaks of England were specially raised for their curved pieces, especially where the trunk would split or where limbs came off at right angles to the trunk. That is one reason they were marked with the King's broad arrow and cutting them down was treason, punishable by death. Here is a drawing from Dodds & Moore, Building the Wooden Fighting Ship,, a book that I highly recommend. I hope it helps. Dan
  6. Beautiful, Rob - I may have missed it in reading your log - how are you laying on your ratlines? They look great. Dan
  7. Hi John, Jan - Well spotted. I saw the same things, but did not have any concrete answers. I believe that the chains go to the side anchors, but the fittings that they go into (which I do not fully understand) have no exit through the side of the bulwark. The hinged door that covers the fairleads does not extend that far back, so the chains can only go down into the hull. As for the height, I agree that the photos that I posted show the chains lifted off the deck by tension. But others show them on the deck and wrapped around the base of the winch, as I have modeled them. That was the solution that I chose. Thanks for looking in and keeping me on my toes. Dan
  8. Hi Rob - Just read through your build. I don't know why it took me so long to do it. Excellent work, especially at your scale. Logical, thoughtful, careful - especially the sails. My fingers are crossed that you never go through your recent troubles again. Glad you are back. I'm following along now and I'm looking forward to staying with you till the pennant is raised at the masthead. Dan
  9. Hi Carl - If you compare the photographs you can see that the breakwater stays aft of the second pair of large bollards. The anchor winch first sits between this pair, then moves behind the breakwater. There are still some open questions about exactly when this happened, but physically it seems pretty clear. Happy to help with any travel ideas. I'm not an expert, but I have done a good deal of travelling and have even managed to visit every one of our 50 states. Dan
  10. Hello again to all – Thanks so much for the compliments and commiserations. Please don’t take my experience as the last word. Many people that I have talked to, on the boat and after coming home, have had excellent river cruises. Just my luck to get a rainy week. Carl – don’t avoid America as a vacation destination. Some of my favorite trips have been through the Southwest, with its geological wonders, herds of wildlife, and the ancient dwellings and modern cultures of our native peoples. But back to the shipyard - - - The next area of the ship to be tackled was the working deck at the bow. As seen on the plan, there are two sections, bisected by a curved breakwater. Six large bollards are mounted in the forward area, with two smaller ones in the aft section, which also contains a large hatch. The chain for the large anchor at the nose of the ship comes up on the centerline, but then angles slightly to starboard to run around the chain winch which sits between the aft pair of bollards. This agrees with this photo taken, I believe, towards the beginning of the war service. Note that the lighter chains from the smaller winches for the side anchors run under the large anchor chain. Contrast that with this photo. It is clear that the large anchor winch has been moved back aft of the breakwater. The chain runs through the breakwater and returns to the chain locker through a covered chute. This configuration was retained during liner service. After discussion it was decided to use this layout rather than splitting the winch in half. The breakwater was shaped, painted and installed with a hole for the anchor chain to starboard of the centerline. Bollards are Bluejacket castings, cleaned up and slightly modified. The smaller winches are Shapeways offerings, mounted on round bases and painted. The light chains are the finest that I have, with a nominal diameter of 0.020” and more than 40 links/inch. The fittings for the main anchor include a large Shapeways winch with an added base to raise it to the needed height. The trough for the chain, the return chute, and the hawse pipe and chain brake are all scratch-built. A small triangular platform was installed at the extreme bow with the hawse pipe and chain brake below it angled slightly to starboard. The trough was cut and fitted over the side anchor chains to meet the breakwater. The stud link chain is another Shapeways product. I was quite happy with it. It is very accurate and not expensive at all. After the chain was installed the screw drive for the chain brake was fashioned from 0.032” brass rod and installed. The handles are sections of PE railing. Chain preventers were mounted, two on each side. They are made up from the beads that I used for turnbuckles, ground to a shallow angle and mounted on small pads. Short lengths of fine chain nip onto the large chain, although I did not mount preventer hooks. That would have been a detail too small even for me. Low railings are mounted on the bulwarks above the fairleads to help protect the soldiers and sailors who are seen in many photos standing on the fairlead heads and leaning over the side! In the aft area of the deck the large hatch was built up as previous hatches were, painted and installed. Just forward is a companionway with a curved top that straddles the centerline. On its top is a 4-seat boom crutch for the cargo booms that come off the foremast. On the troop ship side the gun platform was built up to fit over the breakwater and bollards so its deck matched the height of the bulwark. Railings run around its inner edges, with a removable one along the bulwark. The 6-inch gun has been temporarily placed on the platform to check location and height. It is a bit of a shame that the photos show the large shield on the gun, which hides the truly fine details of the breech and the loading and aiming mechanisms. That completes this area. I am happy with it, although I see that the short piece of gun platform railing will have to be straightened. Next I turned to the boats. There are almost 100 of them, with several different davit types. More soon. Dan
  11. Hi guys - Back from the Danube - now known as the River of Death! If you have missed it on the news, a week after we were in Budapest a Viking river cruise ship, almost identical to our Uniworld ship, rammed a smaller South Korean tourist ship with the loss of 33 lives. I saw that very Viking ship along the river just days earlier. The problem was that Europe has had its coldest and wettest spring in 40 years and the river was very high and brown, with tree branches floating along. The current was running at 6-7 knots and our ship made labored progress upriver. Going downriver it must have been impossible to slow or steer the big ship as it approached the crowded lane under the Margareten Bridge. The video of the accident shows the smaller Korean ship being trapped against the bridge piling before turning and being swamped by the impact. One of my travelling companions, who is frightened of the water in any event, now will not even consider another similar trip. Our own trip was uneventful. Much too uneventful. Lots of bus tours with herds of other tourists. Castles from a distance. Churches and monasteries from the inside, whose golden decorations all blur together. The Hungarian Parliament building and the Vienna art museum, both done at a speed too fast to properly appreciate anything. A nice small private concert at the Vienna Opera House, but in a small side room. No access to the main hall, considered one of the most beautiful in the world, on a par with La Scala. Salzberg was nice, and there was an interesting visit to a farm that grows saffron. I enjoyed watching us go through several locks on the river, but my companions all slept through them. The ship was nice, the food was good, the service was excellent. Otherwise, save your money and buy a good video travelogue. Anyway, glad to be home. Back to modeling in the next post. Dan
  12. Hello again to all – Thanks for the compliments and likes, and for the comments and critiques too. The more feedback I get, the better the final model will be. This will have to be a quick one. I am going on vacation tomorrow for two weeks and will be cruising up the Danube between Budapest and Munich. I will be looking for points of maritime or modeling interest along the way. I am sure to get my fill of beautiful churches and historic castles and scenic town markets. Back in the shipyard – With most of the detail work in the center of the ship already done, I added the guy wires that support the funnels. None of the photos of the ship are detailed enough for me to determine whether they would have been different colors during the two service periods. Besides, depending on the background, they change color anyway. I decided to do them in contrasting colors, with dark line for the troop ship and bright steel for the liner. For steel I have previously used an actual stainless steel beading wire, but it is unwieldy and difficult to get tight and straight. Any kink, no matter how small, is hard to get out. This time I tried silver metallic thread for the liner side. To get the wires taut I first needed small eyebolts, which I made up from 0.011” wire twisted around the shank of a 0.020” drill bitt. To stand in for the turnbuckles I used ¼” long by 1mm o.d. beads that were sourced from a beading supply house called Fire Mountain Gems. They have a surprisingly large number of products and tools that are useful in ship modeling. The wire is threaded through the bead, then through the eyebolt, then back up through the bead. To install it, the eyebolt is glued into a predrilled hole, taking care not to glue the wire or the bead. The long end of the wire is tied to an eyebolt on the funnel, then the short end is pulled up through the eyebolt until the line is taut. The bead is slid down till it seats against the eyebolt. With tension still maintained, a drop of cyano locks everything together. Here I am working on a simple test bed to see if the thread will bend tight enough around the eyebolt. With this method the 48 wires for the funnels were set up. The result is a bit simplistic, but the wires will always remain straight and tight, which I think is the most important thing. More improvements to the system will be worked on to get the turnbuckles looking more realistic. The troop ship side was rigged with dark line. I initially installed them with the brass colored turnbuckles, as in the photo. However, I did not like the look, and they have since been painted grey, which solved the problem. On the liner side, however, the silver thread did not work out quite as hoped. It looks good in moderate light, but in strong light it is much too shiny. I have dulled it down with matte varnish, but I think it is still too bright. I will show it to the powers that be for their opinion, but I will probably overpaint with steel grey enamel. That will have to wait until I get back. Until then, be well. Dan
  13. Hi all - Just a quick post to finish up the foredeck well area. The only things left were the Carley float life rafts. They have appeared in some of the earlier photographs of the troop ship. Although there is a record of a plan for their distribution, I have not been able to get a copy from the National Archives. However, I don’t think its absence will make much of a difference. The photos show some floats hanging against mis-matched areas of the camouflage, so they must have moved around a bit. The basic principle seems to have been to put as many as would fit in as many areas as would not interfere with the working of the ship. I guess they figured that if the ship was torpedoed in a combat zone it might be a long time before rescue. And since they knew that most of the casualties from the Titanic were from hypothermia, they tried to get as many life rafts into the water as possible. In keeping with the semi-scratch nature of the model, I found acceptable units already in production at Shapeways. They come in sets of multiple numbers, so the cost was not prohibitive. [I tried to import an image from their website, but couldn’t get it to work.] I trimmed them from their sprues and gave them a coat of grey primer. This also worked for the dark sections of the camouflage. Where the floats sat over other colors they were hand painted using a dry brush technique on the mesh floors. On the face of the superstructure the floats were initially attached with tacky white glue. When this was dry they were further secured with cyano. Looking back, I should have installed them before the cargo cranes went on. The lower floats were quite hard to position in the cramped space. I decided to leave them a little crooked. I think it reinforces the impression that they are temporary. I leaned two small ones against the entryway house. Two larger ones stand up near a stack of three. I also installed the twenty nine sit on the roof of the main hall. There will be many more all around the ship. More soon. Dan
  14. Mark - yes, I'm happy with how they came out. Figuring out building solutions is a big part of the pleasure for me. Michel - glad to have you following along and glad you are enjoying the journey. Carl - yes and no. The larger cable is 0.010" thread, which is 2" full size. A bit thicker than technically accurate, but in the ball park. The thinner line is 0.006" The problem is that by contrast the first looks thicker than it is. I will probably tone down the visibility later, but that will depend on how the shrouds and other rigging come out. It won't matter the actual diameters as long as they all look consistent. Thanks for raising the issue. Dan

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...