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  1. Marc - So sorry to hear that it got you, but glad you are not in the target population and should be OK. Joyce and I send our best wishes and we will see you at the next club meeting, whenever it is. Get well speedily and completely. And stay away from me !!! Dan
  2. A very nice 'Dutchman' repair. Once the shrouds and stays are tensioned, there shouldn't be a lot of strain here anyway. Dan
  3. Hi Ron - Just checked in and found you struggling with the headrails. Don't worry, we have all been there. But you may be making more work than needed. The head timbers do not straddle the stem, but are separate pieces to each side. Here is a page from zu Mondfeld's "Historic Ship Models". You can see in the lower right that they are paired support pieces and do not connect to each other. In this configuration you can make them separately to match what may be some slight variation in the headrails on either side. I cut the head timbers to fit the headrails instead of trying to match the headrails to the head timbers. I think this is an easier sequence. That said, in this little area under the bowsprit they will be difficult for anyone to see, so you can keep the ones you have with little down side. Hope that helps, and I apologize if it makes things worse. Best of success. Dan
  4. Hi Marc - Really nice work on the rudder. It will be almost overlooked in the finished diorama, but your dedication to detail will shine through to those who know. I have had a lot of success painting with the tiny metal tools that fingernail painters use. Not very expensive online. I would go with the epoxy. I find that cyano heats as it cures and could warp the plastic masts. I think of epoxy as being more flexible too. Be well - you and your entire family. Dan
  5. Hi Ron - For cleaning out and smoothing miniature carvings, I have found nothing better than a good set of rifflers - curved needle files. She is coming along very nicely. Be well Dan
  6. Hi Mark - So glad you are recovering from the aftereffects of your stroke. I know that it will take time, but mental exercises like model building can make the process as speedy and complete as possible. You have best wishes from me and, I am sure, the entire ModelShipWorld community. When you have a moment, I would love to see your helicopter. Be well Dan
  7. Hi Mike - I agree with the others that you are doing a great job with the restoration. That's the good news. The bad news is that it is not likely that you will ever be paid a reasonable return for your work. Having done dozens of restorations, the most important commercial fact I have learned is that once the model is repaired, the repair cost is folded into the value of the model. Imagine that you have a wrecked 1975 Dodge Charger. You spend $10,000 worth of time and money fixing it back up. It then becomes just another used car worth about $6,500. Most times, unless the model itself is of high intrinsic value like a bone and ivory POW model, the repair will not pay for itself. Your model is a very nice example of an ocean liner model. But it has some simplistic details and is not a model of a famous ship. At this point in my career I do not repair models without a firm contract for the repair work itself. I leave any subsequent sale to the client. I'm happy to discuss this further if you contact me at shipmodel@aol.com or phone at 718-855-1720 You can even come to the next meeting of the New York Shipcraft Guild in downtown Brooklyn next Tuesday, March 10. Contact me for the details if you are interested. Sorry to be the bearer of unwanted news Be.st of success to you. Dan
  8. Marc - Hubac's Humble Historian as always. Your work is much more than simply 'quite good.' Impressive, imposing, inspirational, and other words beginning with 'i' are much closer to the incredibly high bar that you have set for yourself and everyone else. Thank you for sharing it with us. Dan
  9. Hi Ron - As always, I truly admire your perseverance, commitment, and craftsmanship. Please keep up the great work. Your carving of the scroll is beautiful, clean and crisp. I tried a complicated headpiece on my Oneida, but couldn't carve small enough to do it. I ended up just using a simple volute scroll. In any event, since she was built in the small undeveloped hamlet of Sackett's Harbor, and in a hurry to launch before the British, I'm not sure that she would have had anything complex. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Dan
  10. I should have known that your eagle eye would have spotted the curiosity already. Be well
  11. Hi David - I was wondering what you were working on. Now I see, and seeing is believing just how excellent is the work you and Greg are executing. The framing is clean and precise, the carvings are artistic gems. I have signed up for a front row seat and have a full bucket of popcorn. One question - how will the anchor cable lead outboard with the hawse piece set that high? It looks like the aftmost support between the headrails will be in serious danger if the ship swings at anchor. It is probably the angle of the photograph, but it did catch my eye. See you in New London, if not before. Dan
  12. Truly a tour de force, Keith. Bravo !!! (I'd put in more exclamation marks, but that might be silly.) Dan
  13. Hi Vaddoc - This is an interesting project and I am enjoying following along. I am fascinated with learning what CAD can do - and not do. I have done several lapstrake boats/ships and I have a few suggestions, if I may - 1. The garboard should not come up higher on the bow. Bringing it up typically increases the bend required in the rest of the planks 2. Try to plan out all of the planks before cutting wood. You will certainly need to tweak the strakes as you install them, but it will give you a good starting point. 3. A 2mm overlap is good. I found that scribing the overlap on both sides of both edges of each plank kept me from wandering. Here are some photos of my Gokstad ship under construction. The overlap was just about 2mm and there were 16 strakes, so I hope it can give you some ideas. Best of success. Dan

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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