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  1. Really beautiful, Keith - I can easily imagine walking her deck in a fresh breeze with a cold cocktail in my hand. Is she available for a charter to the Bahamas when this wretched covid thing is behind us? Dan
  2. Hi to all - And thanks for stopping by and for all the likes and comments. Roger and Lou - yet another nice bit of maritime history about the Everett. She would make an interesting subject to build (if someone will pay me to do it - - LOL) Research and construction began, as for all of my models, with an exhaustive search of the available images on the Internet. In addition, two books were of particular assistance: “McDougall’s Great Lakes Whalebacks” by Neel R. Zoss and “Whaleback Ships and the American Steel Barge Company” by our fellow MSW member C. Roger P
  3. Really great work, Gary. I followed along from the beginning and learned many excellent techniques along the way. Looking forward to your next project. I have my popcorn all ready. Thanks again for sharing. Dan
  4. Hi to all who followed this build log. I hope you enjoyed the journey, and I thank you for all the likes and comments. I have just posted the first piece of a new log of building the Great Lakes whaleback steamer SS James B. Colgate (1892) If you want to follow along just click on the ship's name in the 'current build' line of my signature below. Everyone is welcome. Stay safe and well, and a Happy Thanksgiving to all. Dan
  5. Hello to all in this strange time – And thank you if you have followed me here from my last build log of the USS/SS Leviathan I apologize for the long delay between the end of the Leviathan build log and this, and also that It will also not be as detailed as my last write-ups. I will point out some building techniques that are a bit different from former ones, but for the most part it is more of a tour of the completed model than a blow-by-blow description of the construction. This is the second of seven models for the US Merchant Marine Academy museum. The su
  6. Hi Marc - Excellent work on the QG base and details. Those compound curves must have been a bear to get right. Stay safe and Happy Thanksgiving. Dan
  7. Hi Toni - It's always a delicate matter to raise what may (or may not) be a mistake by another modeler. I usually hold my tongue unless the issue can be resolved quickly and relatively easily. I am glad that you had not gone too far before changing direction. I'm also happy that the final solution will actually be easier than before. Looking back, you may have been confused between the look of bolts and clench nails. Both were used in the construction of lapstrake hulls. The clench nails had broad heads, went through the planking, were fitted with roves on the ins
  8. Hi Toni - You've achieved a really nice solution to a tricky problem. When I tried to make metal foil roves I completely failed and fell back on paper saturated with glue. It was for the Gokstad ship, so the roves would have been iron in any case. I could not tell from the photos. Are the roves on the inside or the outside of the hull? Great work. Thanks for sharing. Dan
  9. Hi Charlie - Just got back in the city on a semi-permanent basis. Unpacked, refilled the pantry and fridge, and got a chance to look through MSW. You have certainly made a lot of progress, and all of it quite nicely done. Bravo. The planking and trenneling came out particularly well. I like the copper tape too. I made the impressions from the back side, through the paper, so they made positive bumps on the face of the tape. Then I burnished the bumps back down so the final look was of a flush circular blemish, which looked a lot like the flatheaded nails that
  10. Beautiful work, Marc - I really like how you achieve the look of wood on the plastic. It's truly hard to tell that the decks are anything other than individually laid planks. Stay safe. Dan
  11. Hi Marc - Frustrating work, I can see, but the results are stellar. I plugged in "Tamiya paint retarder" and Amazon came up with a 40ml bottle for about $9. It says it is for acrylics, but I have no idea how or how well it works. Stay well Dan
  12. Hi Marc -- No guess as to the number of different structure/detail/rigging choices I might have made. There are a bunch, though, especially if you count each individual gunport lid. I tip my hat to Piet for even trying to quantify them. As for rigging, the book by R.C. Anderson, The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime) , available from Amazon for a few bucks, was a godsend when I was rigging the Sovereign of the Seas and the Queen Anne's Revenge. He presents not only the basic English style, but also shows how French
  13. Hi Marc - Well thought out and analyzed. The head structures should come out well with your excellent level of persistence. I do recommend that you fill the gammon holes at this time. The kit ones are much too level, I think, and probably mislocated. The holes should angle up and forward, much like the ones in the St. Phillippe drawing. (The ones on Marc Yeo's model are, I believe, too angled.) I found it nearly impossible to locate and angle the holes on my models until the headrails were planned out precisely, or even until after they were installed.
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