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  1. Hi Michael - Yes, the stern windows will be an interesting artistic element for Marc. I'm looking forward to seeing how he decides. My mother, who was an American antiquities expert, once did a study of pre-colonial (around 1750) glass. If I recall her results, it was that most glass, except really low end stuff, was pretty clear and flat when made, But the composition of the glass meant that it would sag fairly quickly, which is what we see and value now. But I imagine that the windows of the Admiral's quarters would have been glazed with top quality glass So I would go with high gloss panes, initially. If they are too glaring, then satin/eggshell touch-up. Just one possible way to go. Dan
  2. Hi Toni - Looks like another interesting project, and the finished model is certainly quite beautiful. I have done a number of lapstrake hulls, and I would not want to fiddle with fairing the overlaps while also worrying about the dead space between bulkheads. I would fill at least one more space at the bow and two at the stern. That should make the fairing process a bit easier. Hope that helps. Dan
  3. Keith - Beautiful metalwork. I am green with envy. How do you keep the deck plates from flying into Neverland when you part them off? I would be hunting them for days. Dan
  4. Thanks, guys, for the compliments and likes. Sorry I'm not giving a more complete explanation, but the techniques are pretty much the same as explained previously. I'll go into a bit more detail when I get to making the ocean display base. Keith - the blocks and winches are from Bluejacket. Everything else is scratch-built. More soon Dan
  5. Hi all – I hope my countrymen all had a good Thanksgiving and everyone's favorite football team, whether round or oval, won. Unfortunately, I root for the NY Giants. Oh well . . . Here is the next segment of the build. As before, mostly photos with captions. The final major components of the ship were the masts, which also acted as the cranes for the cargo booms. Here they are in photographs. And how they turned out. The mast tops anchored the shrouds and stays, and the single and triple blocks of the boom tackle were secured here as well. I could not fit any available triple blocks for the topping lift tackle so I used doubles. The lift tackles reeve through double blocks at the deck just inboard of the shroud turnbuckles. There are four shrouds, with ratlines only between the inner two, though there are swifters every fourth ratline that go across all four. The bases of the booms have clevis joints that fit in a ring around the base of the mast. There is a multi-headed steam winch for each boom, set in a circle on deck around the mast. A large searchlight sits on a railed platform on the foremast. On the troop ship a large lookout station was hung below the searchlight. Its peculiar shape had to be pieced together from segments of plastic tube turned inside out. The final few details to finish the ship will be covered in the next installment. Till then, be well. Dan
  6. Hi Marc - If you can make it to the club meeting this coming Tuesday I can show you how I make molding scrapers from used hobby blades. Just another suggestion among several others that work. Dan
  7. Hi Marc . . . and Marc - I believe that the rudder hole was rectangular because the tiller (in blue) went through it, not the rudder. The tiller, in turn, was connected to the whipstaff (in red) that pivoted through a rowell or rowl (in green) Here the rudder head is housed in a closed off box, but many that I have seen end just above the tiller and below the counter. This from an illustration by Phillips from around 1690. I'm sorry but I have misplaced the full information on the illustration. Dan
  8. Marc - Yes, I think the upper balcony is only two bays wide, judging from this drawing. It also looks to me that the middle balcony is two bays wide, with decorative extensions to shade the 4-bay lower balcony. Is that how you see it? Dan
  9. Hi Marc - Fascinating in depth discussion, as always. To help me see what you were saying, I took the drawing and enhanced the contrast with Photoshop It really made the shadows pop out.
  10. Hi Marc - Have you considered laying on a plastic mesh over a flat clear plastic? Turn it 45 degrees for a diamond pattern like Tanneron's. Here is one possible mesh from Amazon - it is 4" x 4" and has 28 x 28 cells, or 7 cells per inch. https://www.amazon.com/Darice-10-Piece-Square-Plastic-Canvas/dp/B0018N29Z2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=plastic+mesh&qid=1574305574&sr=8-5 10 pieces for $2.25 if you are being frugal. I don't know if this mesh is fine enough, but there were lots of others. And if you continue as you have begun, this will be a silk purse fit for Marie Antoinette. Dan
  11. Roger - Thanks so much. I will use the model to check against mine and the photographs that I have collected. I will do a brief boat tour log once I have finished. Dan
  12. First, thanks to everyone for the compliments and likes. Roger - a special thanks to you. Photos of another model will be very welcome. I am still trying to piece together from photographs the exact details of the stern deckhouse and its roof. Dan
  13. Hi Marc - Excellent work as always. Sorry, a book title is generally not subject to copyright. Put me down for one of the first copies. Dan PS - I posted this yesterday when you were having photo problems. Hope it goes through this time.

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