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About DSiemens

  • Birthday 04/12/1985

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Denver Co
  • Interests
    Sailing Ships, Ships in Bottles

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  1. An old friend if mine has started doing Smokey and the Bandit parodies and has started a Youtube channel. His videos are pretty good, I thought I'd share.
  2. This next part has a lot of options all depending on how detailed you want to go. If you want to keep it simple leave off the topsails all together. In higher winds these would have been removed and it looks fine with out them. Here's an example. If you want to add more detail though the top sails look great. To put on the yard arms use the cow hitch and tie the yards to the mast. Running rigging will be used to keep the yards straight. There's a lot of options on this part as well. The Bermuda sloop is interesting because the running ri
  3. An example of the frame method. This was used on this ship. This was a old build from a long time ago unfortunately it wrecked going into the bottle and was not rebuilt. It's an occupational hazzard. Time to get into yards arms and running rigging. This is a little tricky since parts of the running rigging works off of other parts but little by little it comes together. First lets start with the gaff. When it some to yard arms I prefer to tie them on instead of drilling holes. This keeps the overall strength of the model while enabling the us
  4. When it comes to trimming lines there is a special tool I use that makes for a really close cut. Follicle clippers from the grocery store. They run around $8. Note how straight the edge is and that it cuts off to the side. I can place that edge right on the shroud and cut the ratline super close with out cutting the shroud line. To show this look at how close the ratlines are cut at the edges of the shrouds. Something to note with these clippers. Treat the like your mothers sewing scissors. Once you use them for anything but thread t
  5. For the rest of the bowsprit whittle out a really thin piece of bamboo cut it to size from the plans and then taper the end. With a pencil mark where the end of where the two bowsprit pieces overlap. Then glue them together. I got some 8/0 fly tying thread and tied a knot around one end of where the bowsprit pieces connect. Then I wrapped that thread around glued it down tied it off glued the knot and cut off the ends. It will look like this. Then I did the same on the other end. Now its ready for the bobstay. T
  6. First one more set of back stays. Following the plans I drilled a hole in the bulwark. I then tied a line to the top mast about mid way down. I gave it a little glue so it doesn't move then ran the lines through the holes on the bulwarks. I then tied my temporary forestay on and set the rake angle. These back most back stays are the most important in setting the rake so the must be perfect. Once the rake is set I secured my temporary forestay on the bowsprit with a tiny amount of glue. Enough its easy to pull off but also enough to hold the rake whi
  7. For some of the next parts I'm going to use what called a thread block. John Fox III has created an excellent video demonstrating how this works.  This thread block is how I get away with thinner, somewhat closer to scale masts and yards. The smaller the dowels get the harder it is to drill holes and the holes compromise the integrity of the mast and yards. Tying thread blocks creates places for lines to pass with out compromising the strength of the mast and yards.
  8. To give a better idea on this style of rigging, the following link is where I first discovered it. Jim Goodwin shared it a long with a lot of other tricks on the PBS show the Woodwrights Shop. https://www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-ship-bottle/ Honestly the ship he demonstrates in this show maybe a better beginners model than this Bermuda Sloop.
  9. Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. The
  10. Time to put some cannons in. Going back to the concept of putting together shapes a cannon consists of a cylinder sitting on a rectangle. For the cylinder I opened up an old cell phone charger cable and pulled out the black wire. For the rectangle I found a nice dark veneer and cut strips. I still had to thin it a bit to fit the cannons in the gun ports. Good to be aware of sizing on this part. Here it is with all the carriages glued in. If you can get a hold of or build this tool I highly recomend it. It really helps keep my length
  11. Next part is the windlass. The windlass is used to haul anchors and other heavy things on and of the ship. Breaking it down the simplest form is two triangles and a cylinder. Glue those right on deck just behind the bowsprit. Also another couple small pieces. I put in a couple rectangular pieces one just behind the bowsprit and one on the bowsprit. Looking at the photo of the other model it looks like theres a block on a stand just behind the bowsprit and a ships bell on the bowsprit. I did a ships bell this small on the Scavenger but being a beginners build I
  12. To make sure I have the right spacing for the bowsprit and the windlass I'm putting the bowsprit in next. I cut a notch in the front bulwarks to get the angle of the bowsprit according to the plans. I glue the bowsprit in the notch and to the deck. I'm not worried about the bowsprit being pulled up by the rigging because of the bobstay. The bobstay runs from the bowsprit to the stem. As the bowsprit is pulled up the bobstay pulls it back and creates a fulcrum. As the end of the bowsprit is pulled up the end attached to the hull will be pushed down.
  13. Time to add in the bilge pumps. Basically this piece. Breaking this down its a cylinder with a handle on top. First I drilled a couple holes. That ensures they aren't going anywhere. I like to use booboo scewers on round objects particularly masts and yards. Its a sturdy material and it works well pulling through a draw plate. Another great method is putting the scewer into a drill and turning it until its smaller. I don't suggest turning in a Dremel though. Dremels turn to fast which makes bamboo into a projectile. Drills are slower and more control
  14. Thanks every one. This has been a fun build. Work is slow but sure. I finished the transom and I think it turned out nice. I wish I could say I did all the wood carving on this but the reality is its not wood. I saw some one on this forum say they used polymer clay for the intricate carvings. So I decided to try it out. Its not to bad. The transom was slightly different then it is in the book so I couldn't just copy the book directly but I got it pretty close. Work on the rigging continues.
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