KurtH

Check to see of the stem and stern post align. I neglected to do that and paid the price later

Thanks Ron! Your work on the quarter galleries is really amazing!!

Modification of the cradle to prevent marking up the ship's bottom. Ship unmasked and set on the cradle: Preparation of the forward rails: I have painted the hull in preparation for the rail installation. The colors are Tamiya Flat Red (Same as the interior), and Vallejo Royal Blue. Since I plan to use Vallejo Yellow Ochre for the decorations rather than Gold, I thought a deeper shade of blue would create a better contrast. Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish was used for the natural wood areas, and as a base for the paint. I am not sure that I can install the rails before going out of town for 2 weeks, so I thought I should post what I have now. I just realized that more filling needs to be done on the quarter galleries, so I am leaving them unpainted for now.

In a book of photos published in 1991 which I bought when I visited Constitution, foretack boomkins are in place. They look identical to those on the Hull model. I am guessing that since the courses were not set when they last sailed her, and likely will not be set if they sail her again, the boomkins will no longer be needed, hence their present absence.

Here is one: Hope this helps.

I have been unable to replicate the search that turned up those photos, but here is one more that I downloaded at that time.

I thought it might be a good idea to give you a heads up concerning the pitfalls I encountered when doing the bowheads in case you are not aware of them already. The plans given on page 48 of the instruction book represent the restoration which was done in 1978 and is the current configuration. The scale is not given, but I was able to figure out that it is 1/96, and so can be used as is for the model. This configuration conflicts with the elevation plan in two ways: the cathead emerges from the hull at the forecastle deck level in the plan and in photo 24 on page 50, but does so just below the caprail on the real ship. Consequently the photo shows a "squashed" version of the bowhead structure compared to the real thing. The deck plan also shows the position of the catheads forward of their present position. I did not catch this until after I finished the build and saw that I had a foreshortened version of the structure. Here is a build photo of a superb model by Herb Ebson showing the simpler version of the bowheads shown in the Campbell plans: This is the configuration of the bows that the Revell model uses. The Model Shipways Constitution uses the current appearance. Perhaps one of the many builders of that kit might be willing to share the measurement from the stem to the cathead if you decide to use the plans given on page 48. By the way, the Ebson model uses real trennels, not simulated ones, and there are working brass sheaves in all the blocks. In case you do not already have them, here are some photos of the real ship you might find useful: Note the complex curves and variable beveling of the outboard edges of the bowhead timbers. Whenever I see a model of the Constitution, the first thing I look at is the bowhead. That is the most difficult part of the build in my opinion., and the Constitution bow is the most complex and challenging of any ship I have yet seen. The most successful rendering of this that I have seen is a build from the MS kit by Jerod Matwiy: One more thing. The cast metal trailboard provided in the kit is different from the current version, so some creative fettlin' will be needed to integrate it into the current configuration.

Amazing work! This kit demands great resourcefulness and creativity which you have shown. Congrats!

Thank you so much Ronald! I greatly appreciate your kind words.

Magnificent result! Congrats!

Hull below the water line filled, sanded, and painted using Deluxe Materials Wonderfill and Vallejo Ivory. I did not use a sprayer because I do not have the facilities for that, but I masked the rest of the model anyway because that fine white dust which is produced by sanding the Wonderfill gets into everything everywhere and I was concerned that if it got into the fibers of the pear hull planking patterns, I might never be able to get it out. Before I remove the masking, I should fill those crevices (crevasses?) at the outboard edges of the counter:

Looks like your arrangement for the sternpost and rudder will work. Best wishes for success!

According to the instructions, a piece representing the keel is to be glued to the bottom of the hull carving. I did not shape my hull in such a way that the keel was a part of it. The stern post, keel, and stem with stem knee are all to be added after the shaping of the hull is completed. I wish I had taken a photo of the hull before adding the stem, but here is a pic of the hull showing the added stem and keel. You cannot see the stern post, but it is there: Having fallen into the trap that I described at the beginning of my log, I cut a large notch out of her stern and glued in a block, and worked from there. Unfortunately, I failed to get the shape right. It looks nice but it is not as accurate as I wanted. It is too sharp below the waterline, especially at the bows. Looking at the photo of Lawrence Arnot's build which appears on the title page of the instructions, I see that he did not get it right either. His is too bluff. If I were in your position, I would contact BJ to see about the possibility of getting (buying?) a new carved hull, but that is because I do not see a way of adding enough material to correct your problem. I am not that experienced, so maybe someone can suggest a solution for you. Perhaps Nic at BJ can suggest a better remedy.

A model to be very proud of!!

Wonderful work all around!!