KurtH
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Everything posted by KurtH
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Thank you so much Ronald. I will be one smug self satisfied modeler if my second layer looks anything like yours!
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Thank you Jeff. I appreciate your encouragement!
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Here are some shots of the model after sanding and filling: I was not as concerned with small gaps between planks as I will be when I do the second layer. I guess I will discover whether or not I sanded and filled enough when I do the second planking. Hopefully, all will be well.
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I found that when I constructed the stern the oversized metal quarter gallery components forced me to sacrifice the aft most gun port on both sides, so I ended up with 30 guns on the gun deck instead of 32. I understand that a couple of long guns were installed as "shifting gunnades" on the forcastle at various times during Constitution's career. You might want to use the extra guns for that if you run into the same problem that I did. I used MS gun bulwarks carriage red for my model which I thought matched the color I saw on the real ship quite well.
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I went on line and found Mr. Metal primer, Mr. Metal paint, and Mr. Metal polish. If yours says Mr. Metal primer, then I would assume that you leave out step 3.
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You may already be aware of this, but just in case - the rope sizes given in the BJ instruction manual are circumference, while the ones on most packages and spools of rope are diameter. I did not catch that, and as a result the rigging of the 24 pounders on my model are way out of scale. I ended up doing the math and writing the correct size into the instructions for all the lines.
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No, I have not abandoned the build. I am just a very slow worker. I finished laying the first layer of planks: I will post a similar set of shots when I have sanded down the protruding edges and humps, and filled in the dips and hollows. As I am not experienced at this, the funky fettlin' near the keel is not that surprising. It will not win any prizes for authenticity, but it should suffice as a base for the second planking, and it will not be seen.
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Guns were always mounted higher. The trunnions were always located below the midway point between the upper side and the underside of the barrel. If you look at the guns on page 83 of the Marquardt AOTS you can see what I am talking about.
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Installation of the decking sheets looks great. The sheets I had did not reach all the way to the stern, so I hid the seam between the two lengths under the Captain's inner cabin bulkhead. Concerning the assembly of the guns - you may already be aware of this, but just in case, the trunnions are not exactly midway between the top side and under side of the barrel, so the gun will sit lower or higher in the carriage depending on which way is up. I did not realize this until I had half of them done. Consequently, they align beautifully on the starboard side of my model, but not so well on the port side. My apologies if this info is superfluous.
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The glued up sheets consists of strips of basswood glued together edge to edge with black glue which simulates caulking. The strips which make up these sheets can be 1/16" wide, 3/32" wide, and, I believe, 1/8" wide. At 1/96 scale, these would simulate planking which is 6", 9", or 12" wide respectively. The deck plan sheet provided in the kit specifies planking which is 1/16" wide. The decking sheets provided in the kit (assuming your kit is like mine) are scribed rather than glued up. I like the simulated caulking, so I ordered the glued up sheets from BJ. I ordered the sheet which was made up of strips 1/16" wide because that was what the deck plan specified. The plan is wrong. The Constitution has 9" wide planks which is 3/32" at 1/96 scale. I thought I would give you a heads up on that. The photos to which I referred in my post can be found on page 39 of the instruction manual. The planking there is clearly 3/32" wide. By the way, glued up decking should only be used if you leave the deck bright. If you plan to paint it or stain it dark the planking detail will simply disappear. Plank the deck yourself or use scribed decking sheets if you plan to do that.
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I also used glued up planking. Following the instructions, I used 1/16" wide planking which turned out to be wrong. On the real ship the planks are 9" wide tapering to 6" at the stern. Tapering is not an option with the glued up planking, so If I had it to do over, I would use 3/32" rather than the 1/16". The photos of Arnot's model in the instruction book does show this size. My kit did not include planking for the spar deck, so I ordered the planking needed from BJ. They sent me 3/32" wide strips which made no sense because they provided 1/16" wide scribed planking sheets for the gun deck in the kit. Since I realized the problem too late to change the gun deck, I ended up using 1/16" size for both decks to be consistent, and used the provided 3/32" strips for the outer hull planking.
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I was hoping to complete the first planking before I had to put this project aside in order to do my yearly video projects, but it looks like I am just to slow to make that happen. So here is the current state of play: Stealers to be added aft after the planking is complete. I expect to resume in mid July. Meanwhile I will follow all the great Sphinx builds which abound on this site.
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Sorry to hear of your difficulty. I have also made errors similar to yours when I fitted the outer bulwark patterns. I was so taken with your planking that I clicked like before really looking at the text. I am sure you will find a way to work around the problem. I will be interested to see your solution. I have followed your build with interest and admiration.
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I will be one very smug and self satisfied modeler if my planking looks like that! Bravo!
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Thanks mugje for the compliment and the like!
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The next step is to install the ply upper hull side patterns: 1. Upper hull side patterns 2. Upper hull side patterns after having been soaked in hot water for 90 minutes and clamped to the hull. Upper hull side patterns installed: Next comes the first hull planking. I did hull planking down to the waterline in my BJ Connie build, but this will be my first foray into planking below the waterline. There are many methods and philosophies as to how this should be done, but I am inclined to go with what is described in the manual. I would like to proceed as if this were the final planking to get the practice of exacting tapering and bending so that when I actually do the second layer, I will have learned some lessons and will be in a position to do my best. I anticipate using filler to fill in dips and hollows but not the small gaps between strakes, as the final layer will hide these.
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Thank you Geoff. I greatly appreciate the compliment! I have just looked at your build. Wow!!!
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The inner bulwark gun port openings have now been trimmed to match the MDF framing: This took longer than I expected, but that's ok. I am not trying to set any speed records here. It seems to me that now would be a good time to ream out the holes for the gun tackle eyebolts.
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I have only just now checked on my build log and found some new and most rewarding comments! Thank you Dom Fischli for your kind words. I have found that debonder does a good job of diluting the CA although I have not tried it in quite the same situation that you describe. Thank you Blue Ensign for your compliments. I have spent a great deal of time looking at your builds and have the greatest admiration for your work as do many other modelers. Your comments mean a great deal to me! Incidentally, I plan to add lodging knees to the quarter deck scantlings to my Sphinx build in much the same way that you did. I can only aspire to do as well.
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- Bluejacket Shipcrafters
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Immaculate craftsmanship!!
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Thanks Rich! I appreciate the info. I also have a couple of books on the subject - one by Donald Dressel, and one by Kieth Julier. An alternative to measuring and dividing is described by Chris Watton and James Hatch in the instruction book. It is good to have a variety of techniques available to consider. I will take my time and think carefully before I proceed. As there are two layers of planking, I can try one way on the first one, and, if that does not produce a good result, I can try another way on the second.
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Thanks Rich! Good to have your assurance!
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This is my idea of the fairing of the hull. It is my first attempt, so I will not know for sure how well I did until planking commences. Based on what I could determine using card stock strips, I should be OK, but we'll see. The advantage that I see of a plank on bulkhead arrangement as apposed to a solid hull kit is that accuracy of the hull shape is assured as long as the shape of the bulkheads is not altered. To begin with, I sanded the components making up the bulwarks flush with the bulkhead ears. To avoid taking off too much material below the deck level, I left a thin line of char on the aft edge of the forward bulkheads and on the forward edge of the aft bulkheads. This may reduce the bearing surface somewhat when the planks are glued in place, but I think it should still be sufficient given how strong the bonds have proven to be using PVA on MDF and pear. I used my own technique for getting the angles right on each part of each bulkhead, which I am reluctant to describe until I am sure that it worked. It is time consuming, and I am sure that experienced modelers could do just as well much faster. I just did not trust myself to get it right doing it quickly. The process did not take three weeks however. There were other delaying factors which I need not go into. At any rate, here are shots of what I have done:
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Hi Gary. I varnished that deck with the recommended Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish to protect it. The fact that little of it will be seen was an advantage for me, as I am inexperienced when it comes to finishing, and I wanted to see what the result would be. I do not see why WOP would not do as well if not better, but what do I know? Fortunately there are many modelers who are expert finishers who would be glad to give you good advice.
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Gary - I have seen several other builds in which the boats were done first (I forget which). In most other boat builds, the frames serve as the ribs of the boat, and you break out a center piece. In the Sphinx boats the whole piece except the bottom comes out and ribs are added subsequently. I am guessing that you glue the planks to the stem and stern post and to each other edge to edge, avoiding gluing them to the frames. Am I right? Your boats look really good! I can only aspire to do as well.
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