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  1. I got the wood I needed and finished the mezzanine on the rear and started adding the railings. I put a matte finish on the decks. I won't have a lot of time for the next few weeks, but try to spend a couple of hours each evening working on it to unwind.
  2. While waiting for the wood I ordered to arrive, I raided the junk ( I mean inventory) box in my shop and started to put together a serving machine. The gears are 2" diameter RC car gears I machined aluminum hubs for to mount on the shafts. After trial fitting everything, it turns smoothly. I put nylon bushings for bearings in the oak wood frame so I can motorize it later. I still have to make a crank for each end. This little machine will cost me "zero" dollars since I had everything lying around already. I'll post a finished photo as soon as it is done.
  3. Thanks guys. I think I will serve lines on this model (especially for practice). You are correct that the building is not a problem for me, it is learning the terminology and what standard practices should be. I have a degree in engineering and have been a master machinist and tool and die maker most of my life and wood working has also been a hobby for about 30 years. I got this kit as a sort of test run because my next project will be a larger model built from scratch. ( I am used to building things from scratch and drawing and reading blue prints). I always liked ships and this is on my bucket list. I am hoping my health and mobility lasts as many more years as it will take to build the ship of my dreams. I am a little slower than I used to be. I have had a couple heart attacks, open heart surgery, a couple of strokes (after which I now have trouble with numbers), tremors on my left side, and severe spinal stenosis which messes up my balance and ability to walk. I downloaded and printed several articles found about planking hulls and decking. I also found and downloaded a very large list of terminology and their explanations to refer to. The next ship I build , I want at a scale where the hull will be in the range of about 2 feet long. This will allow a much higher detail level. I don't know how long it will take to build, but I hope my health and life lasts as long as I need. I am ordering a few of the books you have recommended. I spent my life learning everything I can about anything I can and this is a new adventure and world of knowledge.
  4. I have a question. I am wondering if the scale of the ship I am building (1:85) would it be noticeable to take the time to serve the various rigging lines. Some of these lines are very small. I would like some feedback on this from you more experienced fellows. I have never served any lines before and would like to know when or if the line is too small to make it practical. I never heard of serving before I got this model to build and this kit doesn't even mention these details. This rigging is new to me and I am trying to study up on it some while waiting for my parts to arrive. Any tips would be appreciated. Mark F.
  5. Thank you for the suggestion. I had thought about that. I will do it just before I mount the grating permanently and use flat black paint. Suggestions are always welcome.
  6. These were the kit supplied little brass ladder pieces I have destroyed. They are so tiny and thin it is impossible for my big hands to work with them. It worked out much better because I am happier with the scratch built wood ladder I made. This one is nice after 4 hours and the third attempt, I finally found a way to do it. The above photo shows the grating for the middle deck as the plan called for. There is not enough room for the cannons as they are tight fit and no walk around space. I cut the grate in half and will turn it 90 degrees and there is plenty of room for the cannons and it looks much better. Today I will varnish the decks and continue to make detail pieces as it will be next Friday before the wood to finish the hull arrives.
  7. Ahhhh ..... Thanks for the picture. Now I understand. I was wondering, since there was no ship's wheel, who and how the boat was steered. ( A picture is worth a thousand words). It is a bit of disappointment as I would have loved to had a ships wheel. I just like them.
  8. In the photo above, the grate on the middle deck was made the size the plans called for. But when I set it in place, I then set the two cannons that go on that deck in place and found they were a tight fit and there was no space between the grate and the cannons. If this was real, there would be no space to walk from the lower deck to the upper deck. So I cut that grate in half and staged everything again and it looks much better. I have learned I have to be thinking way ahead when building to avoid big problems later. ( Photos would not upload for some reason)
  9. Today I installed the rudder. I also made the little "hickey with a window". I'm sure someone can tell me what it is actually called. I set the items on the deck temporarily to see how it looks. I am fiddling with these detail parts while waiting for the wood I ordered to finish the hull. It is supposed to arrive March 5th. I have to go to the store and get paint to start the small "life" boat. It is cast metal and I want to finish it to look like wood.
  10. While waiting for the wood I ordered, I started making some of the other components. I made the grating for the decks and the Crow's nests. The plans show the grating on the deck but you can see the deck underneath them. I am thinking to either paint the area under them flat black or put a black film on the underside of the grating to simulate the dark opening. I think it would look better. I ruled out cutting actual openings because the bulkheads in the frame work would be visible and the decks are glued to them also.
  11. Thank you for that information. I see in the plans the shrouds have the dead eye at the bottom end. The plans have no details about the top of the shrouds. These plans also show to only serve the end that wraps around the dead eye. I can see that from the close up photo of the dead eye end. The more I study these drawings, I am convinced they merely tie the top end of the shrouds to a brass eye screwed into the mast. They show another set of these shrouds from the nest to the top of the top mast section and the bottom of these shrouds tie in small brass eyes in the nest railing. I am assuming they did this to make construction easier for most builders of the kit. I, at present, do not have a way to serve the entire length of the shrouds ( without building one of those server machines I have seen others on here have made. ) This is going to require some thought. I was considering making a serving machine, but not this soon. Showing my ignorance here, I would like to ask why the shroud line is served the entire length? The following are the only reference to these shroud lines in the plans. Kind of vague .... huh? You can see in the second photo, how the lines attach to dead eyes eyes which then attach to brass eyes in the railing of the nest . I think I will get the book you suggested to gain more knowledge.
  12. I been studying the so called "plans" supplied with the kit and found they DON'T match the kit! (big surprise). The "picture" directions match the kit but the rigging plans do NOT. This left me with a few questions that hopefully some of you guys may be able to answer. I will be asking some questions as I get closer to that part of the build, but one question I am really stumped on is , I think they are called, ratlines? ( The "rope" ladders). The photos are too small to see and do not show how the lines attach at the top underneath the "crow's nest" or lookout, what ever it is called. They all seem to go to one point, I think on the mast but there is absolutely no detail in any of the drawings what they attach to. After a lot of studying and frying a few brain cells thinking, I am thinking there must be one of those little screw eyes installed right at the bottom of the nest and they tie to it. The photos are not clear and the rigging plan jus shows the lines going to a point on the mast but nothing about how they are attached there. All the other rigging lines are fairly clear as how to do them. The cannons are another issue. I have pretty much figured what I will do with them and how, but the photo plans show all the dummy cannons below deck and 4 cannons on the top decks. The rigging plans show all the cannons on the top decks which does not match the kit. This also throws off the rigging lines a little as I have to work around all those cannon doors that are in the kit but not on the rigging plan. It is all good though, but it just ups the challenge a little. I am finding I need to look WAY ahead to avoid problems later do to mistakes in the kit or plans. I am really starting to enjoy building this ship as I get closer to the details of dressing up the empty hull and finding ways to increase details or make some things better than the kit supplied.😁
  13. I found a bottle of CA glue by LocTite. It is a gel super glue. It is thicker and does not run. The bottle has a small lever on each side that you squeeze to make the glue come out. How far you squeeze the levers controls the glue flow. You can lay a tiny bead, a heavy bead or a tiny dot. The control is fantastic. I wish I had Found it before starting my build. I found it at Lowe's building center.
  14. This is the paper graphics that came with the kit. I doubt I will use much if any of them. Yellow is my favorite color, but I think this is too much red and yellow. I want to incorporate some other colors in also. I will make some yellow trim, then add other colors like blue and green and red.
  15. Yes I did steam. The thicker first planks ( white wood) we're easy to bend, twist , and work with , but the .5mm x 5mm second planking was a wood called sapelli. It was just miserable to work with. Kept breaking and splitting. As I progressed, things got easier though. I guess I will reconsider a finish, I never thought about that. I would like a tung oil finish, but I would probably have to do the white paint first. On the other hand if I put a poly or varnish on and I do the complete hull, the white paint below the water line may work better. I just don't want a gloss finish.

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