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mfrazier

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  1. Gary, Thanks for the information. I think the image you posted closely matches the kit. I was thinking about this configuration if I stain and don't paint. This info does tend to make me feel better if I go that route. Thank you. Mark Frazier
  2. Yeah, I finally figured a shortcut to eliminate all the counting.
  3. When I set up and tried to start the 4 butt shift pattern, I spent three hours trying to figure it out. I laid a few planks and it would be wrong and I had to remove them and start over. Finally, once I got it started, it went okay. I am sure most of my problem was the fact that I have major problems with numbers since my stroke a couple years ago. I'm an engineer and I used to be able to do trigonometry problems in my head and now I can't add 2 and two without a calculator and still get the answer wrong. It gets frustrating. This planking method requires some counting, a lot of counting.
  4. I got the lower deck installed and planked. I used the 4 butt shift pattern. I used a pencil to simulate the caulking but I am not really pleased with it. I tried it on this deck because it will be mostly covered and difficult to see much. It is satisfactory, but I want something better for the upper deck. I am still working on ideas. I still need to put a finish on the deck. My last model, I used matte poly, but I don't care for that. I painted the upper deck supports white. The videos I watched on you tube show the supports white. I imagine that the gun deck was white to brighten it up. It would get pretty dark painted any other color. I noticed many builds I have read painted these supports yellow ochre. I painted all the dummy cannon area flat black. I am going to have to scratch build some of my stern gallery. I don't know where these model companies get their ideas for things. This isn't a bad looking stern in the kit but it is off on the scale sizing and not much like the real ship. Also I want better details. Because of the differences in the design, the Shapeways decoration will not fit, so that will save a chunk of change but now I may have to try and find a way to use the crappy Mantua castings. That will be a last resort and I still have time to think about this. Maybe if l can scratch build the stern and get it closer to correct, I could use the Shapeways decoration. We shall see later. I keep looking ahead in the very sparce instructions to see if there are any other problems. And there are. The bow area up front is all wrong in the kit so it will require some scratch building. I don't really mind this as this was the plan anyway. Basically I will use the hull and some other things . You could build a decent ship from this kit but it would be a poor excuse for the victory. Oh, well , on towards planking the hull. It is starting to look like a boat. Mark Frazier
  5. Y.T., I did read your log sometime ago when I was researching. I remembered when I saw it again. I think the newer Sergal kit is much better but still carries a lot of problems with it they have never changed. I was interested in how you did the Wales on the side. Whether or not you followed the instructions which are not like the real ship. I actually tend to like the plans in this area even though it is wrong. Mark Frazier
  6. Welcome. You certainly can. Feel free to chime in any suggestions. You were a big help when I built my Golden Hind. Mark Frazier
  7. Y.T. If you don't mind, would you show me a side view of your victory? Mark Frazier
  8. It was pointed out to me that the Wales and planking are wrong in the Sergal kits. I had read this before, somewhere. I don't know if they have changed them in the newer kits or not. My plans are different than the real ship. On these plans, the Wales don't cut through the gunport lines nearly as much as on the real ship. I actually like this look, especially if the ship is stained and not painted. I also like the top half painted and the bottom stained. I have looked at all the builds I could on the internet and YouTube for this ship and found many variations of the Wales. I guess if it looks good to the builder it is ok even if not entirely accurate. I know I don't want to copper plate the hull ( unless I screw it up so bad it has to be covered). I like the wood showing. I have wrestled with this part since I decided to do the build and probably won't decide until I get there in building. I am open to opinions though. Mark Frazier
  9. I agree with you. I will scratch build anything I can. There is an awful lot in this kit I would prefer to change out or at least modify greatly. Some of the small details are proving very difficult with these darn tremors, but I fully intend to scratch build if possible before buying. The figure head is the most desired part from shipways for me and the stern decoration. I know I can't carve these.I bought the kit for the hull mostly ( and this isn't the one I wanted.) I had to settle for this kit or not get one for a long while. By the way. What I see of yours, it looks great. Mark Frazier
  10. Okay, the thread isn't working because the only thread I have is too thin. I am not going out shopping for any. These planks are the same as what came with my Golden Hind. I will treat them the same way. I colored the edges with a pencil and then after planking if needed, I used a .5 mm drafting pencil and a ruler to draw along the seam to accentuate it. The following photo shows how it looks. I am satisfied with this. It actually looks better than the photo. The front bollards needed finished before installing and they need installed before planking the hull as the planks fasten to the bottom of them. The photo above, they are dry fit. I didn't want to use them as supplied because they don't look right even though the instructions show using them as is. I carved them on the other two sides to match. They look much better. 6 coats of matte black acrylic paint and they look good. This part had to be done to get ready for planking the hull.
  11. This is how the Billings kit says to plank the deck. I am going to try this on this kit and see how it looks. The thread will simulate the caulking. I cut a pile of 80 mm long pieces and stacked them. I then took a couple of swipes with a sanding block on the edges to remove the "fuzz" and give the edges a sharper look. If this works good, I will post a photo when done. Mark Frazier
  12. All the dummy cannon rails are installed. The next thing will be planking all the decks. The instructions say plank them and then install them, but the main deck has to be bowed a good bit to install it and the deck under it is split in half. This to me means install and then plank even though it will be more difficult. My mind is still racing wondering about the stern galleries. I need to make a decision.
  13. They don't tell this in the instructions, but the only way to make the dummy cannon rails bend to follow the bulkheads at the front is to make some cuts at the first two bulkheads to allow bending without breaking.
  14. Yes, I have read that in many places online. The laser cutting of their parts (in this kit ) is excellent. Any tight places only required removing the char color. Everything so far fits perfectly. I think they have made some great improvements, but not enough. The castings are still poor quality. The instructions just plain suck. But , they basically tell you right in the instructions that you are expected to know what you are doing. Guess that is an easy out instead of making better instructions. This is my opinion, but if one wants to build a ship out of the box, they better get the Caldercraft kit. My intention was to make a better detailed ship even than the Caldercraft, and I believe with the Billings kit this is very possible using aftermarket pieces and some scratch building, but I had to settle for the Sergal kit ( or wait for God only knows how long for the Billings). My plans may get changed some, but I look forward to the challenge of what I can do with this kit. Mark Frazier

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