iMustBeCrazy
-
Posts
916 -
Joined
-
Last visited
1 Follower
-
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
Possibly, but realistically a bit early. I suspect it was to cut the spark to the engine, a kill switch, or probably a dead man switch, if he lets go (or falls off) the engine stops. -
yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
Greg Davis reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
As I see it at the moment: The rear bracing convinces me that the foil does not rotate, therefore the 'rudder' is just a fin. The wheel is, in this version, non functional. Perhaps steering was done by leaning, that could work. I still think the lever is massive for a throttle but at this stage I can conceive no other plausible function. The video shows that the front foil is inadequate, probably the rear foil is too big and pops up first changing the angle on the front foil and preventing it from lifting leading to the changes aft.
-
druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
Greg, do you have any evidence of a rudder? I can see what may be a rudder in the middle of the rear foil in the early version and perhaps aft of the hull in the later. If I'm right about the early version the entire foil must rotate to turn. I don't think the wheel was used for steering at least in the early version, I think the lever on the right was. It's too big for a throttle lever and a lever was how he steered his aircraft. I think the speed was controlled by 'blipping' the engine with a kill switch on top of the lever, this would be consistent with aircraft through WW1.
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos-Dumont 14 BIS build by FokkerD7 - Model Airways
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos-Dumont 14 BIS build by FokkerD7 - Model Airways
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Tally Ho by AntonyUK
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian sailing pram by Kenchington – Model Shipways – 1:12
-
BLACK VIKING reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos-Dumont 14 BIS build by FokkerD7 - Model Airways
-
Diver reacted to a post in a topic:
Help and suggestions needed
-
druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
KeithAug reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
The main problem is that you're trying to put a square plank in a curved hole. On the plank, the top edge (X) is the same length as the lower edge (Y). On the hull, the path taken by the top edge (X) is longer that that taken by the lower edge (D). Something has to give so the lower edge of the plank bulges out from the hull trying to make a new path that is the length of the plank lower edge. If you force the plank flat against the frames the plank will bulge out between frames so as to stay the same length. This can be prevented by either cutting your planks to shape or by edge bending your pre-cut planks.
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Lowell Grand Banks Dory by Phez - Model Shipways - 1:24
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty Jolly Boat by Peter S - Artesania Latina - 1:25 - First Build
-
See what you started!
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Bounty Boat by AlfredoCampos - OcCre - 1/24
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
iMustBeCrazy reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
-
I found this: And on a replica:
-
Been there, done that I see lots of spare wood there. Just cut carefully. Edit: I should expand on that. Get yourself a stainless steel ruler with a straight edge (officeworks has some cheepies, hold two together and check for no gaps, flip one end for end and check again, flip it sideways and repeat until you find a straight one, they're pretty good so the first one will probably work) glue some 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper to one side to prevent slipping. Cut with many very light cuts.
-
I and others differentiate between frames, cut timbers forming the shape of the boat, and ribs, bent strips holding the planks together. But not everyone agrees. Me too.
-
Quite a lot would go into a kit design: Which vessel? What information is available? What cost? What skill level? How repeatable? (in manufacture) What compromises re cost skill level etc. This Bounty Launch kit is probably based only on this drawing: Which appeared in Bligh's books. The kit hull shape is quite close but the construction (which is not shown) is very different. Also there are errors made by the person who etched the plate for the printers. But the bottom line is that it makes a nice model and is a better representation than some of the other kits.
-
Greg, I hate to ask but how are you going to cover the pontoon?
-
Technically I suppose this is an inwale, an inner gunwale. I have seen no contemporary plans showing inwales in a launch. An inwale may be used alone or paired with an outwale (outer wale or gunwale). Weirdly, if a gunwale is notched to go over the ribs it also becomes an inwale. So, Nick is correct, it's just a design feature of this kit as is the use of ribs on a launch.
-
I used Topaz Photo AI to upscale them, it's not perfect so you have to be careful about what you believe. I don't blame you, there are so many colours that fit. Given it's a light blue grey one of these might fit: And converted to black and white (well greyscale): I'm leaning towards the middle two. Or perhaps a little more black and a little less blue.
-
I've had a look and a long think and my 2c goes to painted steel. The following two pics tell the story, the suspension upright and the bent support are bare metal in the first pic, both are the same colour and not aluminium. In the second pic the suspension upright looks like bare steel at the top and except for that bit both are now coated in a pale colour (it could be any pale colour, pale grey, pale blue, pale yellow, pale red, pale green, any pale colour) but not white. The other struts with the flattened ends, well aluminium doesn't like that unless it's soft and then it bends really easily. It could be done but I suspect not. Steel bicycle tubing seems the most likely.
-
Congrats Nick, she's looking good. The issues you had are all inherent in this kit and you handled them nicely.
Our Emblem ®
