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iMustBeCrazy

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  1. From best to worst, Split system Box (wall mount) Dual hose portable (if you can get one, they stopped selling them here) Single hose portable A single hose portable sucks outside air in at the same rate it spits hot air out the hose, if the air outside is hot then the only cooling will be directly in front of the unit, the rest of the shed will be close to outside air temp. A dual hose sucks outdoor in one hose, heats it up and spits it out the other. Generally the best budget buy will be a Box A/C if you have the wall space.
  2. A bit to digest there, the headache doesn't help. (real headache, not caused by you). Using CAD I'm able to use segments of the sheer plan stations, draw in the head and heel, offset a copy by the moulding at the heel and rotate the head to the moulding at the head, compose (join) the four lines in to an object (futtock etc) and so draw each timber in each bend retaining the curves. I'll probably stick to this method. 39 vertical bends and 23 cant frames plus a couple of extra little bits. The other bit is I want these to be drawings of how to build the ship, so each bend and each cant frame has to be drawn anyway. Perhaps you begin to see why I chose my user name.
  3. No need to groan, I'm only doing a rough PoB so I can figure out the stern. Probably only do the aft third and only plank one side above the wale. But while I'm doing that I might as well draw the extra bulkheads. I will continue trying to draw all bends and the cant frames for PoF plus bulkheads for PoB. As this is largely a family history project, showing the crew accommodation is important, and PoB doesn't do that.
  4. Well, after chasing my tail around and around and around (that curve at the wale shown in post 52 can't exist) I think I'm going to have to build the stern in PoB to see what's happening. I know the outer counter timber is a straight piece of wood with a kink in it, probably leaning over towards the centreline so that the 'elbow' sticks out a bit but in 2D it's not easy to visualise and harder to draw. No wonder they didn't do detailed drawings. Anyway, comments, suggestions please, I haven't done this before. This will be a fairly rough mock-up for my needs, but I still want the drawings to be useful to others. Starting with the keel, bulkheads/moulds when I have done them.
  5. Thanks Tony. I think it was brunch. The same bird once caught and devoured a whole rabbit! Admittedly it was a small rabbit but still several times the size of a mouse. Afterwards it could only fly 50 metres between rests. I've been having a break on the drawings as my eyes are going rectangular what with computers, books and TV. Hope to get outside again soon if the weather moderates. Old man winter seems to have arrived early.
  6. I'm still redrawing things, this will continue long past the learning curve. This will be a long job. The sooner others point out errors the less you have to redo. Everything is inter-related, moving one point may mean moving many others. Also when you're happy with something, lock it from editing. You can always unlock it later.
  7. I would say "it depends". If you are trying to duplicate the original then duplicate the original line weights. If you are trying to create a pretty picture then use the line weight that you think looks best. If you are trying to produce a plan to use as templates then choose a narrower line that is still dark enough when printed. But don't get hung up on line weights at the moment, it's better to get them in the right place first, you can change them later. See my Lapwing thread, I'm using all colours and weights so I can more easily see and differentiate the lines. Drawing a thin black line over a thicker black line makes it hard to see what you've done. As I finalise them I'll reduce the number of colours and line weights to suit a nice print.
  8. First, a small distraction. This morning turned out sunny despite the forecast so I snuck out down to the park for a little exercise and photography. When I got back I modified my balsa mock-up of the stern/counter. It's rough but I think it works.
  9. Thanks Bob, I saw Fukui's post just after wrote the above. It's a possibility but I'll have to draw it to see how it looks.
  10. Well, it took two days just to draw the counter timbers and I've just moved one two inches so it now has to be totally redrawn. So I've been trying to understand the yellow area in the drawing below. The 'trim piece' is shown on the sail plan of the Lapwing (Danish archive) and the Nightingale. It probably extends out to the dotted line and maybe more, framing the planking. The stern rail must blend into it somewhere somehow. But the question is, what is the structure, how is it supported? It doesn't seem to overlap the counter timber enough to be fixed to it. Can anyone point me to anything that might help? Or point out anything I may have misinterpreted from the drawing?
  11. These days, factory produced mdf sheets come with four very square corners and four very straight sides. Even the smaller sheets. To make the above shooting board, cut two rectangles from mdf each with 1 square corner and two straight edges (1 long and 1 short) stack and clamp the pieces aligning the long edges with the top piece set down from the top edge of the bottom piece. Fix a fix a stop piece across the top of the bottom piece using the top piece to keep it square. Unclamp. The bottom should now have a stop which is square to it's long edge. Sounds really confusing but actually very easy once you grasp the idea.
  12. 3D Transom (MDF): Note that when making any part from the drawings you must make sure that the part is drawn 'square on', those that aren't such as the transom, counter, cant frames etc. need to be corrected. For example the transom viewed from the stern appears to be 49 inches high but as shown is is actually 52 inches. To correct this, the drawing from the stern needs to be stretched vertically by 52/49ths (1.0612244). Also you need to allow for any bevelling which may not be shown. In this case, the fashion pieces are wider on the forward side and the bevel is shown on the corrected drawing. Yes, I forgot the bevel the first time.
  13. Thanks druxey, currently 8 inches, probably only need 4 or 5. I guess for even spacing top and bottom. I'll fix them.
  14. Well, it doesn't help my headache but it certainly helps. For one thing it shows I forgot the fashion piece. Doh! Still need to rework the side counter timbers and perhaps the counter timbers:

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