coxswain

As others have said, "epic" is in the eye of the builder. I am just finishing a model of the lobster smack Emma C. Berry. This is not huge. It has no intricate detail or challenging rigging. But it is a beautiful model. And as a plank on frame it is very challenging to build it to scale and to a nice finish. Maybe i was lucky, but the kit i got from Model Shipways had great wood and plenty of it. I found it quite enjoyable to build. Did a bit of bashing. My motto is slow and easy; so it's taken me a couple of years to complete. I'm quite proud of the result.
Walt

Also that HMS Warrior kit by Billing Boats like 60" looks pretty epic.

I live in windsor ontario.  I'm leaning towards kit bashing, but could easily see myself ending up scratch building and really getting into carving.  I had no idea what the possibilities were until I started digging into the posts on this site.  But I don't want to get ahead of myself with the scratch build stuff, which is why I'm looking at kits that get you on your way.  I'm looking more and more at smaller boats done in larger scales ie. greater than 1:40, to get that authentic look.  so much to sift through its overwhelming.  My dad just got the Chaperon, and that looks like a blast to build. 

I have a mental breakdown just LOOKING at them.

I mean if by epic you mean covered in ornamentation cannons rigging and carvings then the answer is Sovereign of the Seas or Wasa. Both could probably cause a mental breakdown while building but what a way to go!

Got another few hours in. Images as requested.

Nearly finished, but have discovered an error. Either in the plans or I have made a major boo-boo. Need to do thinking!

Four hours just to complete the boiler piework.

The hot bit.

Windy thing for the pointy end.
 
Ken

Back to virtual metalwork with the left/right thingy.

This is where I am at. Kurt- you are correct, published in "Model Boats" April 1982 - that might save you some time!
Ken

It's another riverboat log - I am on board. 
The ZULU was a cover on an old Model Boats - the R/C magazine from GB - and a how to.  I have it in my files and will be digging it out.  If this is the same ZULU, it had two wheels at the stern that could be reversed independently for very responsive steering.  I have a set of R/C sidewheels I intended to use on a model of this boat - but I think I am done with R/C - but as a static model I am very interested in this build.
Kurt

Some details of the metalwork from the Model Dockyard plans. The lathe will start turning in April when sawdust will also be created. A build log will follow.

The timberheads are in.  The raised section of deck toward the stern (the top of the cabin I suppose - is that the poop or quarterdeck?) does not have enough of the bulwarks showing above it for timberheads.  The plans call for lockers in that area, anyway.
 

 

 
Next, I'll work on the hull exterior, smoothing, priming and painting.  Before I prime, I have to glue on the planksheer (so called on Chapelle's plans, but labeled SHEER in the kit plans):
 

 
The plans call for 1/16" square strip, but the kit contains 1/32" square strips that seem to have no other purpose, so I'll use those.

The planking is done - a lengthy, fiddly job.  I tried carpenter's glue on a scrap of the planking sheet and as expected, it curled.  I ended up using good old model airplane cement, which gave me enough time for positioning each piece and didn't curl the material.
 

 
The strips running athwartship are a workaround to some errors in laying out the panels.  I've decided to live with little problems like this and do better next time, rather than reworking everything that isn't perfect.
 

 
The deck surfaces are slightly crowned.  The panels followed the crown pretty easily, but I had to make up little fixtures to hold down the ends of the cross strips while the cement dried.
 

 
Next step is to cut and install the timberheads.

No worries on the hull planking. I've done a solid hull without planking also. Just applied the wales for accents and painted the hull. I've also simply scored the wood deck instead of planking. Makes a nice look, the trick is keeping everything straight. A hobby knife is all you need to do it.
 
I see no reason you could not stain and varnish prior to installing.
 
As for the glue, as long as you spread it thin and evenly over the surface there should not be any problems. I would use a contact glue such as one that would be used for laminate counter tops. It is designed for this type of application and can be found at any hardware store. Just make sure that whichever glue you use, you lay it on thin and even so there are no bare places for air pockets to form or lumps to create waves. Just make sure your deck pieces fit the way you want them to so you do not have to fight them going in. Contact glue can set up fast and getting them back out will be tough. Do several dry fits and you will be good.

E.J.,
 
I blush to admit that the (solid) hull will not be planked, and I will use the scored wood sheet material supplied with the kit for the deck planking.  The bulwarks were pre-carved in the hull but left thick; I've already thinned them to about 1/16".  The decking sheet is scored lengthwise into 1/16" "planks" - I will see if I can devise a method of cross-scoring them to simulate offset planks of reasonable length.  Some other questions regarding the sheet material:
Is there any reason not to stain and varnish the decking before gluing it to the hull? The Marine Models instructions recommend not using a water-based glue to attach the sheet because it might result in warping.  Is this an issue, and what alternative adhesive would be appropriate?
 
Thanks for your comments,
Andrew
 

I've made some progress.  I found a few sources of information about the Joe Lane.  Chapelle's History of American Sailing Ships includes a chapter on revenue cutters, with a few pages, line drawings, and plans for the ship.  The plans are very similar to those supplied with the kit, and both probably derive from the same set of plans maintained by the USCG.
 
I also located a number of photographs and descriptions of a handsome model scratch-built by Rex Stewart on the Marine Models solid hull.  Mr. Stewart researched and included many details not included in the kit's plans.
 
I put a good deal of time into research on building techniques, paint and so on.  And I did some actual work: I constructed a cradle to hold the hull securely in a horizontal position, to assist with drilling, waterline marking, and other operations.
 

 
I set up my ancient drill press to the mast rake angle and drilled the hull:
 

 
This is the current state, with deck furnishings laid out (but not secured yet).
 

 
I think I will install the deck planking (scored sheet supplied with the kit) and timber heads before I finish the exterior of the hull.  The rail cap and pin rails would be next, but I have to figure out how to do the pin rails first, since the plans don't provide useful details.

Russ: I hear you about the cats!  We have two, and Kelly's brother may be the more likely to attack the rigging.  I am a long way from having to worry about that, however.
 
Anja: I think I have to accumulate 10 posts before I can create a signature, but I will double-check and create it ASAP.
 
About the kit instructions: They are “General Construction Notes for Marine Model Kits.”  The builder is meant to cross-reference the construction notes to the plan supplied with the kit, and ignore anything that doesn’t apply.  The first few steps, in summary, are:
Shape the hull according to the contours on the plan, cut out the rudder opening if necessary, fill and sand to a smooth finish.  During this process, mark a longitudinal centerline around the entire hull. Trial fit exterior pieces (and clean casting flash from the die-cast pieces). Thin the bulwarks (which are left thick to avoid damage during shipping) to about 1/16”. Glue on wales, sheer moldings, and channels.  (No wales or channels on the plans, but there is a sheer molding made of a 1/32” square wood strip.) Mark and shape openings in the hull sides.  (There are few or none on the plans, a deficiency in my opinion – no scuppers, for example.) Make a cradle that holds the hull with the waterline horizontal to the base of the cradle, and secure the hull in the cradle using a long thin screw into the bottom of the hull. Temporarily fit the bowsprit (a diecast piece in this kit, with a wooden spar mounted on it). Drill mastholes to the proper rake, and other deck openings. Mark the waterline, using a block that rests on the cradle base and holds a pencil at the correct height. I decided not to attempt to fair the hull according to the supplied contours: it’s good enough out of the box for my purposes.  I have done some sanding and filling, and I probably have more to do – it’s hard to tell.  I also thinned the bulwarks with an X-Acto knife and sandpaper, and experimented with some of the diecast fittings (including the bowsprit, which is located to the hull via two prongs in the casting, and the diecast trailboards).  Gluing the ultra-thin sheer moldings to the hull will be an interesting challenge.

Many years ago, my niece’s father-in-law (now deceased) purchased this Marine Models “Joe Lane” for $37.50, made a start, and quickly abandoned it.  The kit sat for a few decades until my niece and her husband passed it along to me after they saw me admiring a completed model they own.  Here are the contents of the kit, along with Kelly, my overseer:
 

 
The kit consist of the hull, a full scale (1/8”:1’) plan, a set of generic instructions for building any Marine Models kit, a supplementary sheet with rigging and painting details specific to “Joe Lane”, a sheet of nautical terms, illustrations of what appears to be a prototype for the model, a sheet of planking, strip wood, spars, a base, a large number of diecast fittings, and rigging supplies.
 

 
The original owner did some sanding and trial-fit the rudder to the hull.  (He also knocked a chunk out of the taffrail, which I found in the bottom of the box and glued back into place.)
 
Since I have very little ship modeling experience, my goal for this kit is modest: I want to produce a model that pleases my eye and not worry too much about historic accuracy or ultimate detail.  I’ll stay pretty much within the bounds of the kit and plans, and try to avoid scratch-building new components, at least to start out.  I have a steep learning curve ahead of me and I expect I will spend as much time planning and researching techniques as I do building.  I’m looking forward to making full use of this site and its members’ wisdom.

As of the last post I am ahead. Cleaned up my mistake and learned from it.
The boat is pretty much finished and all that is needed is the mast, boom and gaff with the sail.

 

 

 

 
 
I need to make a burgee (little flag)

and the name 'PERSEVERANCE' on a name board.

 
I have no letters so I am thinking (MS Word, required font and printer).
 
Except if anyone has a better idea, I would like to hear about this.
Thanks
 
Marc

Finished mast hoops.

 
Sail marked with light pencil.

 
Sail completed but not attached to mast, boom and gaff. Dry fit.

 
 
Boomer the cat in the box. Not on the warm mat next to it, no, in the cold box.

When the trim was all done.  Very happy with the results.




 
The cabin windows get trim as well made from the same material as the mast hoops.
Used a window cut-out as form. Wrapped the wet canning around the form. Held it in place with a large clamp and the ends that cross over each other with a hemostat.
 

Here I mix Elmer's white glue with fine sawdust. There are some areas on the hull that are very thin (due to sanding) so I spread this mixture out on these areas and once dry it is solid and very hard.
Then I give it a good sanding and because the Catboat will be painted you will not be seeing much of that.
 


 
After all the rough sanding I now put on a layer of vinyl spackling. It does not shrink, can be painted, easy to apply.
 

 
Marcus